Remove Transmission 2006 Lotus Elise - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-27-2012, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
Carbon Fiber
 
FistHammer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,637
Remove Transmission 2006 Lotus Elise

I removed the transmission with the clam off. This Method removes the entire drivers side suspension assembly as one piece, saves a ton of time and headache. Once this is out of the way you can drop the transmission by taking 3 of the 4 motor mounts and tilting the motor.

Should be about the same for all 2005-2010 elises and exige. not sure though. if you know a good range please let me know.

1. Remove clam, if you don’t have a lift get the car on jack stands “pretty high to , you need to slide the transmission out from under the car” I didn’t have a lift.



2. Remove the driver’s side caliper. First unbolt the 1 17mm bolt on the back of the caliper, then remove spring, bolt then flip it back and brake pads, next push the e-brake arm on the caliper down while routing the cable out of the slot. Caliper should slide off. This is also a good time to disconnect ABS sensor on the hub. I set my caliper on the frame rail and it seemed to stay out of the way.

3. Remove the upper shock bolt, Toe Link and Upper control arm from spindle. Careful of the spindle/plinth shims on upper control arm, save their position!




This will give you enough play to pop the axle free. By popping it free at this point you prevent the tri-joint in the axle from separating too far.



4. Pop Axle loose. There is a c-clip that must compress to get the driver’s side axle out. Get a 4 foot crowbar, place it in the groove of the axle. Then press the axle into the transmission as far as it will go “there is some play”. Then in one motion pry the axle out about 1 inch. Should feel a pop.





5. Put your transmission jack under the assembly, then remove the last 2 remaining bolts “the lower control arm bolts”. Then you can roll the whole assembly away while feeding the e-brake line out a loop on the lower control arm.





6. Disconnect the Toe link on the passenger’s side suspension and the upper control arm from the spindle. Also remove the 3 carrier baring bolts from engine on the passenger side drive line. This will give you the play you need to allow the passenger side axle to slide out of transmission.

7. In the back between the firewall and engine you will find a ground wire, then a bracket holding the clutch fluid line. Then remove the 10mm clutch line and cut the zip-tie holding the hoses to the transmission above it. Also I would take this e-brake loop off, it’s a Pita later.





8. Then Un-bolt the starter, one bolt is under the car you will see the power line near it, the other is under the throttle body and must be removed from above the car. Just pull the starter back a bit out of the way.





9. Remove the Shifter linkage by the 2 bracket bolts and 2 quick clips holding the cable ends on the transmission linkage.




10. The next steps are the last few. As a note I had to disconnect the air canister by gas door to allow the engine to lean more. In total there are 8 bolts holding the transmission on. You already got the 2 for the starter. The next 2 are right at the bottom of the engine. 2 more right on the side of the motor. Leave the last 2 in until the motor is tilted. “the top 2 green ones in pic” You can break them loose if you want now.

Image of engine with transmission off for bolt location view



11. Support the Engine Via, jack on oil pan. Also place transmission jack under transmission. Remove the front and back motor mounts and brackets. Then be sure your jack is holding the engine weight and remove the transmission motor mount center bolt. Loosen the remaining mount on passenger side, the main bolt just a bit, to allow it to flex better. Then slowly lower the 2 jacks. Once you get a bit of room remove the motor mount bracket off the top of the transmission.



12. Once you have the engine/transmission low as you can go before pullys on engine are almost hitting frame wall on right, take out the last to bolts on the transmission. Then separate the 2. Then lower the transmission jack the whole way while pulling out from under the car. If your car is to low you may have to bear hug the transmission while a friend slides out the transmission jack. The carefully hand off the 80 LB rock under the frame rail.



Just a few notes on installing a new clutch:

1. Be sure the throw bearing is traveling the full length of the sleeve.





2. The kit comes with the clutch, clutch plate alignment tool and a fat plastic washer. Tap the washer into your flywheel, then put the clutch and aliment tool into the flywheel at one time. Then just assemble the clutch plate back on. Torque it down and pull the guide pin.

3. The flat side of clutch is flywheel side

4. Clean the bell housing/shaft and apply some 1000 grit emery paper to the throw out bearing shaft to make sure it is baby smooth.

5. Apply grease to bearing shaft and main spline (not too much) and bell housing fork ball and fork ends

It's alot easier to just print int out, here ya go: Remove Transmission 2006 Lotus Elise PDF


If I am missing something please let me know. If its a good tip Ill adjust the pdf, but I can only adjust main post for a few weeks.

Last edited by FistHammer; 02-27-2012 at 05:47 PM.
FistHammer is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-27-2012, 12:24 PM
Registered User
 
robains's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: CA, Bay Area
Posts: 3,738
Sounds like you got there in the end without issue.

Couple of things I do and don't do:

Do:
1. Clean the bell housing/shaft and apply some 1000 grit emery paper to the throw out bearing shaft to make sure it is baby smooth.
2. Apply grease to bearing shaft and main spline (not too much) and bell housing fork ball and fork ends

Don't:
1. Rest the entire engine on the oil pan, yes it can be done and it "might" be ok, but you increase the potential for leaks/problems -- even more so if you have a supercharger attached

Your approach might require you to check the toe.

Rob

"For me, it is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in delusion, however satisfying and reassuring." - Carl Sagan
robains is offline  
post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-27-2012, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
Carbon Fiber
 
FistHammer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,637
Cool, ok I added that to everything, I did clean mine and put the grease on before installing tranny, just forgot to mention. Most clutch kits wil come with the grease for this. this is the kinda things I needed. Once I figure out where the drain hole is for the gearbox I will add that in to remove this. Otherwise you need a pan under the axle hole.
FistHammer is offline  
 
post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-07-2015, 05:38 PM
Registered User
 
fsparv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 656
Garage
WRT the circlip... is that a dealer only thing? I don't see it on lotusgarage.. but I did find this...

AutoPartsWAY.ca Canada 2011 Lotus Elise Axle Shaft Lock C-clip in Canada

Any chance that the 2011 Canadian elise part differs? I'm guessing not, but thought it might be good to ask anyway

2005 Lotus Elise, Starlight Black # 111 SSM NER SCCA Solo - 1835lbs up to 1.65 Lat [email protected]~55mph (asphalt) 193whp 142wtq Normally Aspirated.

http://www.the111shift.com/p/the-build.html

https://www.youtube.com/c/the111shift
fsparv is offline  
post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-07-2015, 06:21 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,337
Awesome!
Nessal is offline  
post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-07-2015, 06:25 PM
Registered User
 
fsparv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 656
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nessal View Post
Awesome!
is it? that's my question

2005 Lotus Elise, Starlight Black # 111 SSM NER SCCA Solo - 1835lbs up to 1.65 Lat [email protected]~55mph (asphalt) 193whp 142wtq Normally Aspirated.

http://www.the111shift.com/p/the-build.html

https://www.youtube.com/c/the111shift
fsparv is offline  
post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 05:55 AM
Registered User
 
Motard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
Posts: 1,383
Garage
I need to thank you for posting this thread. It was one of my primary guides in removal of my transmission a week ago.


So. Thank you ! Very helpful...

L O T U S
Motard is online now  
post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 10:26 AM
Registered User
 
fsparv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 656
Garage
Yes this thread is very helpful... Many thanks!

I'm partway in, and my $0.02 so far ...

I took the brake disc and the shock off just to make the drivers side control arm/hub assembly much lighter and much less unwieldy. Less than 5 min to take those off and put them back on... (one screw, one bolt). Of course this makes no real difference to the procedure over all, just a preference/option.

2005 Lotus Elise, Starlight Black # 111 SSM NER SCCA Solo - 1835lbs up to 1.65 Lat [email protected]~55mph (asphalt) 193whp 142wtq Normally Aspirated.

http://www.the111shift.com/p/the-build.html

https://www.youtube.com/c/the111shift
fsparv is offline  
post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 11:26 AM
Registered User
 
ZAMMY1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: washington, pa, (near PGH.)
Posts: 1,983
nice write-up.
i didn't disconnect the clutch release line, but removed the cylinder mount bolts.
a minor difference.
i had the luxury of an overhead crane so the underneath was open.
as i removed pieces, i put them in labelled baggies, in order.
makes it easier whenever ANY disassembly is done.
sam

'06 ELISE now with hidden talent and dual cigarette lighter sockets!
ZAMMY1 is offline  
post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-10-2015, 03:35 PM
Registered User
 
fsparv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 656
Garage
ok here's a very bone-headed first-timer mistake that I made, and hopefully I can prevent others from making... Make sure the nut is almost all the way off and spinning freely before popping outboard the toe-link ball joint out... otherwise the ball spins when you try to take the nut off... :

Based on my reading that probably is going to cost me a toe link ball joint (or motivate an upgrade to the sector 111 solid links)... The internet seems to agree that once you get into this situation, the only way out is to cut the nut or the stud.

Leaving the nut partly on seemed to make sense to keep the ball joint from flying when it popped (I think I read that somewhere), but I didn't think it through, and now I'm stuck. Read one post that said try banging the ball joint back in and hope it binds, but that sounds to me like it would probably just damage the ball joint and cause it to wear and fail later...

2005 Lotus Elise, Starlight Black # 111 SSM NER SCCA Solo - 1835lbs up to 1.65 Lat [email protected]~55mph (asphalt) 193whp 142wtq Normally Aspirated.

http://www.the111shift.com/p/the-build.html

https://www.youtube.com/c/the111shift
fsparv is offline  
post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-13-2015, 03:33 PM
Registered User
 
fsparv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 656
Garage
Many thanks to twaszak1 who helped me rescue the ball joint. His advice was to set part the weight of the car onto the ball joint, putting a hockey puck under the joint to avoid damage. This creates enough friction to undo the nut. I had too many other bolts un-done, to use the weight of the car but this inspired me and I managed to do this: (no idea why the forum turned this image sideways on me...)
Attached Images
 

2005 Lotus Elise, Starlight Black # 111 SSM NER SCCA Solo - 1835lbs up to 1.65 Lat [email protected]~55mph (asphalt) 193whp 142wtq Normally Aspirated.

http://www.the111shift.com/p/the-build.html

https://www.youtube.com/c/the111shift
fsparv is offline  
post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-13-2015, 08:18 PM
Absolute power does what?
 
rosscarlson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 3,201
Well written guide - I've done this a few times and this sure would have helped the first time I did it. Clam off and removing the suspension pieces is really the only/best way to do it so you're not fighting space issues. It's really not that hard to get the clam off anyway and the access provided is nice.

Should throw a clam hinge in there while it's off...

2006 Exige | Full List | BOE Rev400 (357whp) | JC Head | ProAlloy | ForceFed | BOE QS | ITG Airbox | BOE catch cans | gPan2 | Setrab | JUBU | Tillett B5s | Scroth 6pt | OMP Superquadro | interior/HVAC delete | Traqmate | Chasecam | Lift Point Kit | Ultradiscs | RBF 600 | RS14 | Vented Pistons | Penske DA 600/800lbs | V2 arms | BOELinks | ShiftEnforcer | Manly mounts | Braille | Yoko S01s | R888s | GTC-200 & Canards | RACEsills | BOE UnderAero | F1 Livery

Daily/Tow: '10 V8 Pathfinder LE
Former: '11 Jaguar XF-R | '08 Audi RS 4 | '09 Legacy Spec.B | '08 Volvo S60R | '07 Nissan 350Z
rosscarlson is offline  
post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-14-2015, 12:59 AM
Registered User
 
Gunpilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Enterprise AL
Posts: 4,063
Thank you, was some great tips I didn't think of................





This is hell. I told my wife if it happens on her Elise we are selling it!

2012 Evora 2+0 IPS.
2007 Exige mental track toy.
2005 Elise.
1982 Brunette.

"Listen up, I ain't Captain Walker. I'm the guy who carries Mr. Dead in his pocket."

"CHARLIE DON'T SURF"
Gunpilot is offline  
post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-18-2015, 07:31 PM
Registered User
 
fsparv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 656
Garage
hmm, I'm having a little difficulty figuring something out... All the Youtube videos I've watched show the clutch alignment tool fitting snug in a bearing that doesn't seem to exist on our cars. How on earth are we supposed to line this thing up? pics:
Attached Images
   

2005 Lotus Elise, Starlight Black # 111 SSM NER SCCA Solo - 1835lbs up to 1.65 Lat [email protected]~55mph (asphalt) 193whp 142wtq Normally Aspirated.

http://www.the111shift.com/p/the-build.html

https://www.youtube.com/c/the111shift
fsparv is offline  
post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-18-2015, 08:14 PM
Absolute power does what?
 
rosscarlson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 3,201
Hmm, odd - I don't remember that being difficult when I put mine back together but I did have help from @Vulcan Gray a fellow LTer and Esprit owner. I'll loop him in here to see if he remembers or has any thoughts.

-Ross

2006 Exige | Full List | BOE Rev400 (357whp) | JC Head | ProAlloy | ForceFed | BOE QS | ITG Airbox | BOE catch cans | gPan2 | Setrab | JUBU | Tillett B5s | Scroth 6pt | OMP Superquadro | interior/HVAC delete | Traqmate | Chasecam | Lift Point Kit | Ultradiscs | RBF 600 | RS14 | Vented Pistons | Penske DA 600/800lbs | V2 arms | BOELinks | ShiftEnforcer | Manly mounts | Braille | Yoko S01s | R888s | GTC-200 & Canards | RACEsills | BOE UnderAero | F1 Livery

Daily/Tow: '10 V8 Pathfinder LE
Former: '11 Jaguar XF-R | '08 Audi RS 4 | '09 Legacy Spec.B | '08 Volvo S60R | '07 Nissan 350Z
rosscarlson is offline  
post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-18-2015, 08:25 PM
Registered User
 
Vulcan Grey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Colorado USA
Posts: 4,814
I do remember that, since the other other clutches I've done have a pilot bearing. In Ross' kit there was a plastic ring you can use and leave in place, but we didn't like that idea, so we aligned it concentrically by eye, and it went together fine... No tool.

Travis
Vulcan Grey Esprit 89 SE

My Lotus Project Photo Collection
Vulcan Grey is offline  
post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-19-2015, 04:14 AM
Registered User
 
RichardNHCooper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Perth, western Australia
Posts: 545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan Grey View Post
I do remember that, since the other other clutches I've done have a pilot bearing. In Ross' kit there was a plastic ring you can use and leave in place, but we didn't like that idea, so we aligned it concentrically by eye, and it went together fine... No tool.
Always done by eye, never had a problem.

2009 Elise S,Rev 400 ,t Ferrea Valves , MWR springs,PPE headers and decat,SSC Harness bar, PenskeDA,Shaved V2 steering arms ,FF engine damper. Saikou Michi catch cans, Modded Toyota E153 gearbox ,60l Proalloy fuel tank , Aeromotive 320 fuel pump,Exedy clutch LSD , SSC ECU, CompositeWorx SP1 seats ,Varexy muffler, Haltech Elite 1500 ECU, Racepak IQ3 Street dash, Aussie-clamhinge.
RichardNHCooper is offline  
post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-19-2015, 06:19 AM
Registered User
 
fsparv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 656
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan Grey View Post
I do remember that, since the other other clutches I've done have a pilot bearing. In Ross' kit there was a plastic ring you can use and leave in place, but we didn't like that idea, so we aligned it concentrically by eye, and it went together fine... No tool.
Ok good to know. Thanks!

2005 Lotus Elise, Starlight Black # 111 SSM NER SCCA Solo - 1835lbs up to 1.65 Lat [email protected]~55mph (asphalt) 193whp 142wtq Normally Aspirated.

http://www.the111shift.com/p/the-build.html

https://www.youtube.com/c/the111shift
fsparv is offline  
post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-01-2015, 07:13 AM
Registered User
 
fsparv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 656
Garage
hmm, I can't seem to find anything that says one way or the other for loctite on the clutch cover bolts. I know that it makes a difference for torque (provides some lubrication). I've got the arp bolts that come with MWR's Exedy kit...

2005 Lotus Elise, Starlight Black # 111 SSM NER SCCA Solo - 1835lbs up to 1.65 Lat [email protected]~55mph (asphalt) 193whp 142wtq Normally Aspirated.

http://www.the111shift.com/p/the-build.html

https://www.youtube.com/c/the111shift
fsparv is offline  
post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-01-2015, 07:26 AM
Registered User
 
fsparv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 656
Garage
Also I found that the exedy kit did not fit easily onto the fidanza flywheel. The alignment studs and holes on the clutch cover were just ever so slightly too tight... to the point of interference. Probably could have been jamed on, but I wrapped some 1200 grit around a drill bit and pushed it back and forth through the clutch cover holes a bunch till the cover pushed on with just a little effort (hangs up instantly if it gets cocked though)... this actually turned out to be convenient because I was able to modulate the pressure on the clutch so that I could just barely bump it around by tapping the alignment tool with a wrench and it would just stay until the next tap. Not trusting my eye, I measured 4 opposing directions to verify the centering...
Attached Images
 

2005 Lotus Elise, Starlight Black # 111 SSM NER SCCA Solo - 1835lbs up to 1.65 Lat [email protected]~55mph (asphalt) 193whp 142wtq Normally Aspirated.

http://www.the111shift.com/p/the-build.html

https://www.youtube.com/c/the111shift
fsparv is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community > Lotus Discussions > Powertrain (Engine, Transmission, etc)

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome