Alignment after BOE toe links install??? - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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  • 1 Post By gabylonfive
  • 1 Post By CRG53
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Alignment after BOE toe links install???

Hi guys, after saw a guy spun his car due to toe link snapped at the track, it pushed me over the edge to get the BOE 1/2 toe link upgrade. I just took my car for alignment a month ago. Do I need to do another alignment after install the BOE toe link kit?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 01:04 PM
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Yes you will need an alignment after replacing your toe links.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 01:15 PM
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I do agree with Gabylon, but you can get really really close with doing what I did. Get a dial indicator and set it against the brake disc close to the edge on the horizontal line through the centre, and then zero it. Make sure it has plenty of travel in the compression stroke. Then go about changing out the toe arms, and in the end dial it in to zero on the indicator as you tighten the lock nuts, also make sure the heim joint is in the middle of its travel.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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thanks guys...
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 08:51 AM
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Sorry, no pictures, but I clamped a straight edge to the disc and put a piece of tape on the front portion of the wheel well. With the straight edge ~1/16" away from the front of the wheel well, I put a mark on the tape.

Remove old link, replace with new, and adjust the toe to line up with the mark made previously.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 09:08 AM
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I think you gave me that idea. If you look at my picture, you can see the tape on the liner, I used that to make certain I was on the right revolution on the dial indicator.

Boe REV 300 Supercharger.
Boe DMC Ultimate header.
Boe Clam Hinge.
Boe Pro Alloy Radiator.
Boe TOC wet sump oil pan.
Boe Fuel surge tank.
Boe Oil catch can.
Boe HP fixed rotors with Ferodo DS 2500 pads.
BWR Larini Group B Muffler.
BWR Street/Track Anti roll bar.
Mocal rear mounted oil cooler.
V2 steering arms,
Nitron Singles 425/550.
InoKinetic DS rear toe links.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 09:19 AM
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I saw that thread and am also considering it. Wasnt it an aftermarket one that broke? There was a comment that it was but I didnt see a confirmation.

Ive been checking mine and also upped the torque to the new recommended one.

Is the brace needed? Or is the BOE more than fine?
https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/p...us-eliseexige/
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 11:28 AM
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...or just spend $300 and go with this......No drilling needed......
https://www.inokinetic.com/lotus/dsbrace

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFHughes08088 View Post
...or just spend $300 and go with this......No drilling needed......
https://www.inokinetic.com/lotus/dsbrace

Looks like he had that one.
Odd failure. Looks like the heim joint is ok and the main bar let go.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by not-a-number View Post
Looks like he had that one.
Odd failure. Looks like the heim joint is ok and the main bar let go.

Anybody have more info on this? I hadn't seen that. That's the brace I have as well. That doesn't look good.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 02:06 PM
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That looks to me like the ball joint on the hub and the heim joint on the chassis were not timed so they were binding.
I may be wrong, but other than an impact, what else can cause that to break.

Boe REV 300 Supercharger.
Boe DMC Ultimate header.
Boe Clam Hinge.
Boe Pro Alloy Radiator.
Boe TOC wet sump oil pan.
Boe Fuel surge tank.
Boe Oil catch can.
Boe HP fixed rotors with Ferodo DS 2500 pads.
BWR Larini Group B Muffler.
BWR Street/Track Anti roll bar.
Mocal rear mounted oil cooler.
V2 steering arms,
Nitron Singles 425/550.
InoKinetic DS rear toe links.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 07:14 AM
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I would like to see more detailed, higher resolution pictures of that failure, especially looking into the toe link. From that picture, it looks like the rod end was not threaded into the toe link very far.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TedR View Post
I would like to see more detailed, higher resolution pictures of that failure, especially looking into the toe link. From that picture, it looks like the rod end was not threaded into the toe link very far.
Agreed. Though looking at the BOE website images it doesnt look far off. They look about 2/3rds depth of the external taper Vs the failed one is 1/2.

Its 'interesting' that they taper those ends down so much and for such a long distance.

Really it should only reduce down as much as the flat faces (take the tips of the hex off). OR the length of the taper should be shorter than the depth of the thread.

Essentially they are saying that that part is as strong as the cross section at the end of the threaded fitting. Which looks like a 3mm tube.

Then it looks aluminium which gives you less headroom if your material quality/grade isnt consistent or checked.


Just my 2c worth
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by not-a-number View Post
Though looking at the BOE website images it doesnt look far off. They look about 2/3rds depth of the external taper Vs the failed one is 1/2.
The failed part is a Sector 111/Inokinetic toe link. My understanding, the BOE toe link is a swedged rod, threaded at the ends. The Inokinetic toe link is a solid hexagonal bar, drilled and threaded at the ends. The Inokinetic design has the possibility of having a machined in stress riser at the bottom of the drilled holes. The picture of the failure does not appear to have propagated from the bottom of the holes, but at the end of where the rod end was threaded into the holes. If you look at the installed pictures on Inokinetic's website, the rod end is threaded well into the bar.

It is difficult to make out in the picture of the failed toe link, but it looks bent at the point of failure, indicating something was bound up. Not a typical condition or expected on a radius rod/rod end setup.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 10:08 AM
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When i remember that pictrue correctly, the damage was caused by hitting a wall sideways...
Thats not a material issue.

The front also looked very bad.
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 10:56 AM
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It does look like that but its not what hes saying on this FB post.
Though he could easily have spun and like you say hit the wall and broke it.


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...&theater&ifg=1

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...&theater&ifg=1
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 02:57 PM
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I sure would like to get to the bottom of whether or not that toe link failed before the wheel hit something sideways.

2007 Exige S
Stripped down and turned into a track animal
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by thebuzzard View Post
I sure would like to get to the bottom of whether or not that toe link failed before the wheel hit something sideways.
either way, the toe link replacement (BOR, Inokinetic, etc) improves the existing setup significantly...

"If I've passed you on the RIGHT, you are in the WRONG lane!"
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 06:58 AM
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Agreed. Anyone who considers using their Elise at the track should address what was described as the "trilogy of terror". The toe links was one of the three key items known for ruining a good day at the track.
One of the first things I did was replace the stock toe links with a BOE set (their beefiest). I took a more basic method on my replacement, I carefully measured my length, adjusted the length of the replacement units to match, put them on, drove it straight to a 4 wheel equipped alignment shop. I gave the shop the "standard lotus values" for alignment. I did not want extra toe-in which some track folks prefer (the Elise already goes through 2 sets of rear tires, for every 1 set of fronts).
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Storm titanium 2005 Elise with carbon fiber spoiler, BWR sway bar, BOE toe links, gPan2, LidBone, sector 111 wheel studs, Grey RAC Monolite wheels with toyo R1R, Team Dynamics 1.4 with Hoosier A6/R6s, Katana2 Supercharger, ECU with 265 flash. PPE headers w/decat, CEL angle eliminator, Silent touch catback, Rear Panel Eliminator, HKS intake, V2 fuel tank, Walbro255 fuel pump. HID lights.

Last edited by addertooth; 09-15-2019 at 10:06 AM. Reason: I can't spell
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