BOE Clam Hinge install - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-03-2015, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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BOE Clam Hinge install

Not so difficult, just need to pay attention, take time and be careful.
So far...

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In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is. - Yogi Berra -

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post #2 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-03-2015, 12:22 PM
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I really would like to have a go at this but my mechanical skills / abilities are fairly limited. I read the instructions and get about 3/4 of the way through and start thinking this is beyond me.
What is your level of mechanical experience?


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post #3 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-03-2015, 12:34 PM
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My wife and I did the radiator swap with only the help of this forum, and it went well. These cars are fairly simple to take apart, you just have to be really careful with the large, flexible composite body.

We will be tackling the clam hinge as soon as it warms up, but that will also be with the help of a couple guys who have done a few already.


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post #4 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-03-2015, 12:35 PM
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I'm about half way through mine, but I want to pull the transmission for the LSD install before I install the hinge.
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post #5 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-03-2015, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
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My wife and I did the radiator swap with only the help of this forum, and it went well. These cars are fairly simple to take apart, you just have to be really careful with the large, flexible composite body.
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That and the foam parts that look like plastic, but are much weaker. Ex: piece under the roll bar.
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post #6 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-03-2015, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Dephcon5 View Post
Not so difficult, just need to pay attention, take time and be careful.
So far...
It looks like the hinged approach gives one some access, but it looks like one is (still) going to be reaching in from over the wheels and only from the sides... I know you haven't been there yet, but do you feel the side access will be sufficient for most maintenance endeavors (or is this a case of: being so much better than via the top hatch, that it's got to be worth it)? And beyond that: can one still fully remove the clam by pulling the hinge pins, or does one have to detach one side of the hinges to do such?
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post #7 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-03-2015, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrispysash View Post
I really would like to have a go at this but my mechanical skills / abilities are fairly limited. I read the instructions and get about 3/4 of the way through and start thinking this is beyond me.
What is your level of mechanical experience?
Im 48 and working on cars since I was 14. However, I would say this is easy for intermediate mechanic, but certainly not for the beginner. Due to the size of the rear clam itself, I would not attempt this solo no matter what. Its not heavy or a difficult job but it is just good to have two people to preserve the health of the clam.

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It looks like the hinged approach gives one some access, but it looks like one is (still) going to be reaching in from over the wheels and only from the sides... I know you haven't been there yet, but do you feel the side access will be sufficient for most maintenance endeavors (or is this a case of: being so much better than via the top hatch, that it's got to be worth it)? And beyond that: can one still fully remove the clam by pulling the hinge pins, or does one have to detach one side of the hinges to do such?
The access gained with the clam open is much better. If, for example, you needed to remove the overflow to get access to something else, you will still need to do that. However, the visibility is much better which also gives more elbow room. I also like how I do not have to lean over the clam for future maintenance. I am planning on a REV300 at some point this year. I know it can be installed with the clam on, but this just seemed to be the way to go for me.

In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is. - Yogi Berra -

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post #8 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-03-2015, 06:35 PM
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As far as having to remove the overflow, I just extended the wires and tubing so it can stay in place. A bit more professional that way.

Just moved to Phoenix, anyone else here?
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post #9 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-03-2015, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmushial View Post
It looks like the hinged approach gives one some access, but it looks like one is (still) going to be reaching in from over the wheels and only from the sides... I know you haven't been there yet, but do you feel the side access will be sufficient for most maintenance endeavors (or is this a case of: being so much better than via the top hatch, that it's got to be worth it)? And beyond that: can one still fully remove the clam by pulling the hinge pins, or does one have to detach one side of the hinges to do such?
If you do intend to work on your own car and do any mods then this is really a no-brainer. I used to build my own kits, a bit different from Phil's but not doing that now. Just get the kit and believe me you will NEVER regret it. I would not have a car like mine without a tilting clam !!

2009 Elise S,Rev 400 ,t Ferrea Valves , MWR springs,PPE headers and decat,SSC Harness bar, PenskeDA,Shaved V2 steering arms ,FF engine damper. Saikou Michi catch cans, Modded Toyota E153 gearbox ,60l Proalloy fuel tank , Aeromotive 320 fuel pump,Exedy clutch LSD , SSC ECU, CompositeWorx SP1 seats ,Varexy muffler, Haltech Elite 1500 ECU, Racepak IQ3 Street dash, Aussie-clamhinge.
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post #10 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 08:53 AM
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The only reason that keeps me from getting a clam hinge, is that I'm on my 2nd Elise and have yet to take the rear clam off of either one. I guess that could be different if I need to do a clutch or install a supercharger, but I don't see either happening anytime in the near future. Although it looks cool as heck out at like a C&C or something.
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post #11 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by doge View Post
The only reason that keeps me from getting a clam hinge, is that I'm on my 2nd Elise and have yet to take the rear clam off of either one. I guess that could be different if I need to do a clutch or install a supercharger, but I don't see either happening anytime in the near future. Although it looks cool as heck out at like a C&C or something.
I've got a replacement engine harness, and I need to re-align the rear clam, so it is worth it to do the install all at once. If I didn't have any plans to take the rear clam off, then I'd probably still have the hinge (got a good deal on a used one) collecting dust.
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post #12 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 05:46 AM
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Sorry to bring up an old thread, wondering how you removed the fake foam/plastic interior roll hoop cover. I am wondering if mine was glued in place. As I believe I have removed all pieces of it, but it is solidly still attached.

Forgot to mention, my car is salvaged, and other pieces were glued in place.

Thanks.
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post #13 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 04:13 PM
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There are five or so plastic rivets that should be removed and I think there are two bolts. After that, I recall it being wedged (friction fit) in there longitudinally by something - speaker surround panel?
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post #14 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-10-2016, 06:46 PM
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Sorry to bring up an old thread, wondering how you removed the fake foam/plastic interior roll hoop cover. I am wondering if mine was glued in place. As I believe I have removed all pieces of it, but it is solidly still attached.

Forgot to mention, my car is salvaged, and other pieces were glued in place.

Thanks.
I had to break mine into pieces and get a new one.
The plastic screw fasteners are not really made to unscrew.
I couldn't thread mine back out. They just spun around like a stripped thread.
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post #15 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 07:32 PM
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So I got the piece out all in one piece...just broke one end and glue it back together as the fake leather is still all in one piece. I figured out that the "front" of it that bakes in the sun kind of glues itself to it.

So I had to use a flat tip, and very gently pry the interior roll hoop cover from the fiberglass roll hoop cover by first breaking the seal that had been created from heat and time, then every so slightly use the flat tip as a pry bar to "push/pull" the interior piece down and away from the roll hoop. This allowed me to slip out the rest of the way without causing anymore damage to it that I already had. 👍
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post #16 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 09:51 AM
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So I got the piece out all in one piece...just broke one end and glue it back together as the fake leather is still all in one piece. I figured out that the "front" of it that bakes in the sun kind of glues itself to it.



So I had to use a flat tip, and very gently pry the interior roll hoop cover from the fiberglass roll hoop cover by first breaking the seal that had been created from heat and time, then every so slightly use the flat tip as a pry bar to "push/pull" the interior piece down and away from the roll hoop. This allowed me to slip out the rest of the way without causing anymore damage to it that I already had. 👍

On a scale of 1 to building an ironman armor, how hard is this install? I am really interested in it, for the exception of having to take half the car apart each time it's used.
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post #17 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 03:08 PM
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Not hard to install, a royal pain in the ass to do by yourself. If you have a decent set of sockets, extensions, and allen wrenches you should be good. Ball end allen sockets really help a lot with some extensions when you remove the seats.
For example removing them clam. Weighs maybe 50 lbs, but large enough that it takes 3 people to remove.
Just be wary to spend maybe extra $200 for anything that you may break or is broken.

Hinge plate with the studs for the trunk were rusted and broke off on my 05.
Broke the roll bar cover in half. Wheel well liner had been rubbing the tire and needed replaced.
Rear panel light clips broke off and it fell out of the rear panel. The connector was stuck and I pushed it through the panel

Totally worth it though. I didn't do the rear panel delete and it only takes maybe 25 mins to get mine tilted.
It is a good opportunity to install any engine mods, harness bar, and seats. You have to remove them
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post #18 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 03:23 PM
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Not hard to install, a royal pain in the ass to do by yourself. If you have a decent set of sockets, extensions, and allen wrenches you should be good. Ball end allen sockets really help a lot with some extensions when you remove the seats.
For example removing them clam. Weighs maybe 50 lbs, but large enough that it takes 3 people to remove.
Just be wary to spend maybe extra $200 for anything that you may break or is broken.

Hinge plate with the studs for the trunk were rusted and broke off on my 05.
Broke the roll bar cover in half. Wheel well liner had been rubbing the tire and needed replaced.
Rear panel light clips broke off and it fell out of the rear panel. The connector was stuck and I pushed it through the panel

Totally worth it though. I didn't do the rear panel delete and it only takes maybe 25 mins to get mine tilted.
It is a good opportunity to install any engine mods, harness bar, and seats. You have to remove them

I reeeeeeally wish I did this when I installed my SC.
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post #19 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-13-2016, 06:20 AM
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Hey Coyne,

So far I don't think this was difficult to do, but I am only half way through the process. Removing the rear clam was simple, largest challenge was the interior roll hoop cover, and once I learned the trick to it...no problem. The rest came off very nicely. Just take your time, and you will be fine.

I won't know about the reconstruction part of it all until I get the clam back from the paint shop in about a month (having the whole car repainted due to a lawnmower issue and my wife...she peppered it with rocks while mowing). But I honestly don't expect it to have an issues when I put it back together...truth be told.

The only thing I struggled with was the instructions from BOE, they were a bit unclear for me...however there is tons of information on the forums that you should be able to find out what they are talking about.

Take your time no rush, and easily done in my mind.
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post #20 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-13-2016, 03:05 PM
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These were the more difficult parts for me:
- Figuring out from the instructions exactly what was supposed to have what sized Velcro and where exactly it needed to be, because it will only stick once

- Routing the battery cables to the battery and connecting the Odyssey battery to the terminals. I ended up modifying the metal plates that came with the battery

- Finding room in my garage to store the rear clam safely
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