Elise Wheel Studs - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-21-2017, 03:14 AM Thread Starter
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Elise Wheel Studs

Is anyone aware of a retailer that sells the wheel studs and lugs individually, as in not as a set of 16. I had one sheer off and am hoping that I don't need to spend $150 for a whole new set. Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-21-2017, 04:38 AM
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https://www.race-studs.com

2005 Elise - Storm Titanium
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-21-2017, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you very much! any idea what size I am looking for?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-21-2017, 05:52 PM
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Thank you very much! any idea what size I am looking for?
I'd ask BlackWatch Racing, as they also have individual studs. Great company to deal with that is Lotus oriented.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-21-2017, 05:55 PM
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Thank you very much! any idea what size I am looking for?
M12 x 1.5
Length is up to you. Depends if you're running spacers or not... If you want bullet nose or not... Open lugs or not.
I got 60mm with the hex in the end for easy installation. A closed end spline drive nut fits over it without clearance issues. You could go a bit shorter without issues as well
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2005 Elise - Storm Titanium
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017, 04:56 PM
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Is anyone aware of a retailer that sells the wheel studs and lugs individually, as in not as a set of 16. I had one sheer off and am hoping that I don't need to spend $150 for a whole new set. Thanks in advance.
Have you identified the cause of the breakage?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017, 09:48 PM
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When a fastener fails under load, almost all of them fail at the stress concentration point where the threads end at the shank of the fastener. The problem with a screw in stud, is that it has two of those and one of them is right at the part line of your two parts...in this case, the interface between the hub and the wheel. The problem with the interface plane is, that is where the relative movement takes place between the two fastened parts and that interface plane is the shear plane between your two fastened parts. Aligning the weak point of the fastener with your major load point (the shear plane) is very bad engineering practice. That is why you see failed screw-in wheel studs only fail at that point.

Conventional wheel studs, the kind that press in from the back side of the hub, has the strong part of the stud passing through the interface shear plane. That stress concentration point at the end of the thread is one stud diameter away from that interface shear plane. That is good engineering practice to separate any weak point from your major load plane/path.

My recommendation is to go back to the OEM style wheel screws or do it right and press in ARP wheel studs...but you will have to machine your hubs to get that accomplished if you really want wheel studs. BTW, the wheel screws are lighter that the stud route...and cheaper too.

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