Full Bolt Ons (FBO) - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Full Bolt Ons (FBO)

What does a FOB 2005 Elise entail? I searched and did not see much on this. I wondering what specific mods do you need on this car to make if full bolt, meaning the only way to get more power is to add an super charger or turbo. The typical stuff is full exhaust, headers, etc, downpipes on some cars etc. Also, how many more HP can you get out of FBO? Finally, since some of the SC kits are rather cheap for this car, is it better to just go SC. Thanks
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 11:30 AM
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The only reason to stay NA is if you have a particular inkling to stay NA. At 105hp/liter, it is already pushing a lot harder than most motors, so even cams and all hardly get you past 240hp crank, and that's where the SCs start.

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 07:37 PM
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Bolt on supercharger with flash tune will be best bang for the buck and have obd compliancy. i was told stock block and head is good for around 300whp.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 09:45 PM
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Tough call honestly between turbo vs s/c for cost vs bang for your buck. But for the avg person non mechanically inclined person, jay is right, s/c is the easiest. However, 300 is a little low. With the right kit, people have gotten approx. 350 whp on the forums with either a turbo or a s/c setup.

However, it is strongly suggested that you at least change the valve springs regardless of which direction you go.

If you pick up a used VF2 kit or BWR REV series kit and the right tune, 350 can be had on a stock motor. There is a guy on the forums, i think his name is Thang35u, who has done a few turbo kits on 2zz's and he has 350whp on his recent turbo build on a lotus. And i want to say you can build a turbo kit for about $3k or less, then you need a tune.

I personally am doing a turbo kit, but mine is about $4k due to engine work and big power. Good luck on your path to "bigger power" through forced induction.

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 04:30 AM
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If you pick up a used VF2 kit or BWR REV series kit and the right tune, 350 can be had on a stock motor. There is a guy on the forums, i think his name is Thang35u, who has done a few turbo kits on 2zz's and he has 350whp on his recent turbo build on a lotus. And i want to say you can build a turbo kit for about $3k or less, then you need a tune.
I have the vf2 kit with mp62. My car is currently with jermaine. My block and head are stock. I'm having DMC headers/no cat and aem standalone with manifold pressure and temperature sensors. I'll find out in a week how much power that thing can really make. I've seen a vf beyond stage 2 with tvs 1320 on e85 and flash tune make 347whp. I'll be happy with low 300s and a steady idle
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 08:01 AM
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This engine may not be like others you have heard about. FBO, Stage 2, etc, that really doesn't apply here. You either have N/A and gain pretty much no power with any mods, or you go FI.

With regards to FI, people choose supercharging over turbocharging because superchargers are more readily available, and the power comes on much better for such a light car. You're really asking for trouble with a turbo on a 2,000 lb car that's heavy in the ass.

Most guys want a BOE REV kit, so stock take-off superchargers kits are pretty common, and the best bang for the buck no question. But if you really want to do it right, just call BOE.

https://www.boefab.com/

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 08:06 AM
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@Giantmcm What are you planning on doing for tuning when you are done? Ship the car to phil?

2007 Exige S with almost every track mod...
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 08:27 AM
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I bought a used vf2 kit on a bone stock engine and with tinkering and worry have it running great I love the power compared to na. I find I never hit the second cam unless I intentionally am going for it. I do miss reving around on back roads with the car na sometimes...
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 08:32 AM
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You're really asking for trouble with a turbo on a 2,000 lb car that's heavy in the ass.
Sorry, but you have no idea what your talking about.
I've turbo'd a bunch of Lotus, availability of a sound solution is the issue.
Lotus respond fantastically to turbo, and it's much more scalable.

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But if you really want to do it right, just call BOE.
https://www.boefab.com/
This I agree with completely.
Phil is the top of the heap when it comes to Lotus.

Stay Tuned.....
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 08:49 AM
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Sorry, but you have no idea what your talking about.
I've turbo'd a bunch of Lotus, availability of a sound solution is the issue.
Lotus respond fantastically to turbo, and it's much more scalable.
You don't even know me, might want to check yourself.

No way to get the same power with the same driveability with a single turbo. Just because you're used to them doesn't make you the authority.

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 05:50 PM
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@Giantmcm What are you planning on doing for tuning when you are done? Ship the car to phil?
Sent you a PM.

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 05:58 PM
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Visual i admit i don't know you, however i believe that with the proper suspension and sway set up (Penske D/A from BWR & Hardcore bar from BWR) drivability can very much be controlled on a 2000 pound car with a turbo. Now I do agree, that it is easier with a S/C that mimics a larger displacement motor...but to properly adjust a car with suspension settings can seriously change any car.

I currrently have the above set up in my N/A elise, and i could set it up to seriously snap oversteer, be very neutral and drift the car all day, or understeer like no other. And on the factory tune, when you hit 6200 its the same effect as a small turbo kicking in. So suspension can pretty much iron it all out. I know my settings will change drastically with my new power...but that is half the fun.

Now the real issue is rubber. Keeping a large enough rubber patch back there is the real problem...regardless of s/c or turbo. Right now i am debating on 275 or 255...i think the answer is 275, but that requires new body work.

Visual hope you didn't take offense to my response, but i have to disagree with you. I will have real proof at the end of the summer...I hope.

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Giantmcm View Post
Tough call honestly between turbo vs s/c for cost vs bang for your buck. But for the avg person non mechanically inclined person, jay is right, s/c is the easiest. However, 300 is a little low. With the right kit, people have gotten approx. 350 whp on the forums with either a turbo or a s/c setup.

However, it is strongly suggested that you at least change the valve springs regardless of which direction you go.

If you pick up a used VF2 kit or BWR REV series kit and the right tune, 350 can be had on a stock motor. There is a guy on the forums, i think his name is Thang35u, who has done a few turbo kits on 2zz's and he has 350whp on his recent turbo build on a lotus. And i want to say you can build a turbo kit for about $3k or less, then you need a tune.

I personally am doing a turbo kit, but mine is about $4k due to engine work and big power. Good luck on your path to "bigger power" through forced induction.
IMHO 350rwhp on a stock block is just a recipe for disaster. It might last X amount of time, but the stock block isn't that durable. I'm at 281rwhp and VSA didn't recommend any more due to stock transmission and non-built block.

If I was going to pursue big horsepower, there is no way I'd approach it with a stock block. Just doesn't make sense to me. If you can afford to take the chance and then replace the stock block with a built one, then more power to you.

I'd like to send my car to Phil and let him go crazy, but honestly I rarely drive it or even my GT-R. I've had the GT-R 5 months and it has barely over 1000 miles on it. Working a lot of hours. The S1000RR I've had only a couple of months more than the GT-R has 5000+ miles on it, but I commute on it almost daily. It's a wild commute.

San

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 06:15 PM
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San its because you ARE THE WILD GUY!!!

San is right though...350 rwhp on a stock block is a ticking time bomb. If you address the valve springs it will last longer...but hard to say.

And really the trans is the weakest link at this point as well.

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IMHO 350rwhp on a stock block is just a recipe for disaster. It might last X amount of time, but the stock block isn't that durable. I'm at 281rwhp and VSA didn't recommend any more due to stock transmission and non-built block.

If I was going to pursue big horsepower, there is no way I'd approach it with a stock block. Just doesn't make sense to me. If you can afford to take the chance and then replace the stock block with a built one, then more power to you.

I'd like to send my car to Phil and let him go crazy, but honestly I rarely drive it or even my GT-R. I've had the GT-R 5 months and it has barely over 1000 miles on it. Working a lot of hours. The S1000RR I've had only a couple of months more than the GT-R has 5000+ miles on it, but I commute on it almost daily. It's a wild commute.

San

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 06:22 PM
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Visual i admit i don't know you, however i believe that with the proper suspension and sway set up (Penske D/A from BWR & Hardcore bar from BWR) drivability can very much be controlled on a 2000 pound car with a turbo. Now I do agree, that it is easier with a S/C that mimics a larger displacement motor...but to properly adjust a car with suspension settings can seriously change any car.

I currrently have the above set up in my N/A elise, and i could set it up to seriously snap oversteer, be very neutral and drift the car all day, or understeer like no other. And on the factory tune, when you hit 6200 its the same effect as a small turbo kicking in. So suspension can pretty much iron it all out. I know my settings will change drastically with my new power...but that is half the fun.

Now the real issue is rubber. Keeping a large enough rubber patch back there is the real problem...regardless of s/c or turbo. Right now i am debating on 275 or 255...i think the answer is 275, but that requires new body work.

Visual hope you didn't take offense to my response, but i have to disagree with you. I will have real proof at the end of the summer...I hope.
No offense taken at all, I"m no expert, but I do play one on TV .

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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 06:25 PM
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I'd like to send my car to Phil and let him go crazy, but honestly I rarely drive it...
This is my situation exactly.

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 06:47 PM
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San its because you ARE THE WILD GUY!!!

San is right though...350 rwhp on a stock block is a ticking time bomb. If you address the valve springs it will last longer...but hard to say.

And really the trans is the weakest link at this point as well.
I really was hoping you wouldn't take offense. We usually agree on things. I agree on the transmission to some point, but some of us are way easier on transmissions than others.

I had the original 2002 Subaru WRX with the "glass" transmission. Despite increasing the power to 300awhp I never had an issue, even with aggressive track use.

I think it's the same with the Elise/Exige. Some detonate the transmission under stock power levels, while others can withstand much higher levels. I think some are smoother than others, and it I had to guess, it might have to do with how young you were when you learned how to drive a manual transmission, and how you were taught to drive it. Just my opinion.

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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 06:51 PM
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No offense taken at all, I"m no expert, but I do play one on TV .
Well done. I wish all of us could play so nicely with others here. The moderators would nearly be out of a job.

San
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 06:56 PM
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I had and tracked a mid 2000 subaru 5 speed and never broke anything. However I have not had the same drivetrain luck with the lotus...

2007 Exige S with almost every track mod...
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 07:03 PM
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I really was hoping you wouldn't take offense. We usually agree on things. I agree on the transmission to some point, but some of us are way easier on transmissions than others.

I had the original 2002 Subaru WRX with the "glass" transmission. Despite increasing the power to 300awhp I never had an issue, even with aggressive track use.

I think it's the same with the Elise/Exige. Some detonate the transmission under stock power levels, while others can withstand much higher levels. I think some are smoother than others, and it I had to guess, it might have to do with how young you were when you learned how to drive a manual transmission, and how you were taught to drive it. Just my opinion.

If you're ever in my neck of the woods, beers are on me.

San
San I know you well enough that I don't take offense to what you say...we are like minded in stating the obvious/logical thought...sometimes tact just evades us from time to time.

And I agree, trans life has a lot to do with how you treat it. I started driving stick when I was 12, and was allowed to drive a stick by myself since I was 14...I have always driven a stick, except for a select few cars I just bought to flip or my wife has driven. My current car will be converted to a stick next summer I hope (2005 Passat TDI, love this car).

But the OEM trans is the weakest link, hence the reason why Fred Zust at BWR is the MAN for making the most beautiful gear set in the world that will handle the power, abuse, and punishment. And he did it for what I consider to be very affordable for the serious track or power guy.

Lol...i will keep that in mind...but I will go for being the DD, as I don't drink, so I am happy with a Pepsi or a Coke.

2005 Lotus Elise Graphite Grey - Salvaged title started the SSM build!!!
Maverick ML8 - Other daily
2005 VW Passat Station Wagon TDI (harder to find than the lotus?)
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