Hesitant starting when cold after supercharger install - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-20-2017, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Tried again with the throttle trick and it didn?t work for me. I held the starter button, it cranks, but won?t fire up. Tried again, cranks and won?t start. Pressed one more time, it cranks once, then fires up.
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post #22 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-21-2017, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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So this definitely has something to do with temperatures. I drove to dinner tonight, it sat outside in 50 degree temps for 1 1/2 hours. When i tried to start, it just cranked and cranked.
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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-29-2017, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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This is what has worked for me 3 cold starts...

Tap the engine start button twice, on the third time, press and hold and it starts immediately. Not sure what?s causing it, but I have a process to get the car started every time.
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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 03:21 AM
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Maybe dirty MAF sensor or bad connections. I used to have same cold start issues, but after switching a new MAF and cleaned the wire connections, the engine starts right up every morning.

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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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Just bought some crc maf cleaner. Going to try cleaning it to see if it helps.
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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nessal View Post
Sounds good. Hope this solves the issue. If it does, you might want to try and depress the throttle all the way a few times before every cold start. See if that does the trick as well.
I would think that all emission-controlled, fuel injected cars would have a cold start and cold drive-away strategy built into the ECU. At cold start-up, the ECU would enrich the mixture to account for the denser air. In cold drive-away, the ECU leans out the mixture to aid in warming the engine.

If cracking the TB open a little helps the engine start, then it sounds like the calibration is commanding too much fuel. That's assuming that the idle air control is working perfectly. They tend to get gummed up.

If the engine starts better with the throttle plate opened slightly, then the OP could turn the throttle plate screw slightly to crack the plate open a bit more. In general, you don't want to mess with that screw, but in this case, I think his may be out of adjustment. Lotus, being a small mfr, may have put the ECU calibration through a more limited set of circumstances during test and development. If I did turn the screw on my car, I'd find a way to mark or record the changes I made.
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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nessal View Post
Sounds good. Hope this solves the issue. If it does, you might want to try and depress the throttle all the way a few times before every cold start. See if that does the trick as well.
I would think that all emission-controlled, fuel injected cars would have a cold start and cold drive-away strategy built into the ECU. At cold start-up, the ECU would enrich the mixture to account for the denser air. In cold drive-away, the ECU leans out the mixture to aid in warming the engine.

If cracking the TB open a little helps the engine start, then it sounds like the calibration is commanding too much fuel. That's assuming that the idle air control is working perfectly. They tend to get gummed up.

If the engine starts better with the throttle plate opened slightly, then the OP could turn the throttle plate screw slightly to crack the plate open a bit more. In general, you don't want to mess with that screw, but in this case, I think his may be out of adjustment. Lotus, being a small mfr, may have put the ECU calibration through a more limited set of circumstances during test and development. If I did turn the screw on my car, I'd find a way to mark or record the changes I made.
Opening the throttle slightly didn?t help consistently.

What worked for the past 4 cold starts in a row is tapping the engine start twice, then pressing and holding on the 3rd try. No foot on throttle.
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post #28 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 04:50 PM
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Perhaps you have a fuel pressure leak? Try hooking a fuel pressure gauge to your fuel rail, start the engine and let it run for a bit and note down the pressure. Turn off the engine and let it sit for an hour or so and check the pressure gauge again. If your fuel pressure fall down by 10psi or more, then you have a leak in the fuel system. It could be a bad injector or injectors, bad fuel pressure regulator, or the check ball in your fuel pump gone bad.
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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 06:43 PM
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Hesitant starting when cold after supercharger install

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Originally Posted by brandobot89 View Post
If I have a fuel pressure leak, would this affect driving performance? I've driven the car for 2-3 hours straight with no noticeable issues.


If a slow leak of 10psi/hr. You will not see a performance impact
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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-17-2017, 08:29 AM
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I have to chime in because this sounds like a similar issue I have, but on a completely different situation.

My car is an '06, stock N/A engine (obviously, like I said, a very different situation). I ordered new spark plugs from a well known vendor. I meant to order NGK BKR6EIX, but was sent NGK BKR7EIX. 6's being for N/A cars, 7's being for supercharged cars. After inquiring, the vendor indicated that the 7's will be perfectly safe to use on my N/A car so I proceeded with the install. They work fine once they are heated up. When they are cold, however, they act exactly as the OP describes. Understood that S/C cars have a lot of other potential complications to cause this problem, and perhaps its just coincidence that my situation and the OP's situation are similar, but thought I'd add my experience to the equation since the spark plugs have not yet been discussed as a potential cause for the OP's car.
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post #31 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-18-2017, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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I also cleaned my MAF and had the same cold starting issues. I wonder if spark plug gaps can have an affect on cold starts.

Once warmed up, I can stop and start the car without issues.
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post #32 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-25-2017, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Would a battery without enough cca cause these symptoms? (I run the Shorai LFX27L3-BS12) Or is my assumption that since it cranks normally, the battery is not the suspect.

Also bought a feeler gauge to measure the gap on the newly installed spark plugs. Will update here to see what I find.

If I can find my old spark plugs (the one with the temp rating for the NA elise), i will install them and see if it makes a difference
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post #33 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-30-2017, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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I took out my spark plugs, cleaned them with a towel and re-gapped them from .038 to .032. There was a little oil on the threads of the plug. The car started on the first push of the starter button. It sounded weak for a second just as it turned over, but eventually idled normally. Previously, it use to idle very rough for a few seconds (as if it was on the verge of dying), but now it idles smoothly around 1,000, then lowers after a few seconds.

I will try again in 2 days after letting the car sit to make sure it's not a fluke.

Is it possible for the spark plug gap to cause this issue?

Last edited by brandobot89; 11-30-2017 at 08:13 PM.
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post #34 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-02-2017, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Car has started 3 days in a row with no hesitation since re-gapping the spark plugs. I think this issue is finally solved
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post #35 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-02-2017, 04:53 PM
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Car has started 3 days in a row with no hesitation since re-gapping the spark plugs. I think this issue is finally solved

Hmmm I always set my gap to 0.032" so I never have an issue. What is the stock gap spec?
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post #36 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-02-2017, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmm I always set my gap to 0.032" so I never have an issue. What is the stock gap spec?
The plugs when I checked were around .038" out of the box. Not much of a difference, but was enough to give me headaches during cold starts.
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post #37 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 10:20 AM
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That's weird because all of mine are 0.032" out of the box. I always check the gap before replacing them and they are always on the spot. What plus are you using? I'm using NGK BKR7E stock number 4644.

Glad you got it sorted out though!
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post #38 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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That's weird because all of mine are 0.032" out of the box. I always check the gap before replacing them and they are always on the spot. What plus are you using? I'm using NGK BKR7E stock number 4644.

Glad you got it sorted out though!
I had the plugs ending in -11(bkr7eix-11) which I just recently found have a larger gap.
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