I have lots of little offcut blocks of 2x4, 2x6, and 4x4 lumber in the garage. Lengths vary, but they're generally in the 3" - 6" range. They go between the car and the jack pad or jack stand any time I jack anything up. One nice consequence of using a block of wood as a jack pad is that a pinch weld jack point will press into the wood (as does the jack stand cradle) and more positively lock the car to the stand. I've had cases where, after setting a lifting block on the jack pad to raise the car up higher than one jacking cycle can, the car has actually lifted the jack stand off the ground as I raised it further. The wood going 'crunch' when it's supporting an irregular surface also acts as a load spreader.
On an extruded pan Lotus, a flat chunk of wood on top of the jack pad or jack stand cradle is all you need. If it's flat on the car side, it'll stay that way, has a good coefficient of friction with the car, and is somewhat elastic. It will deform to fit the cradle on the top of the jack stand.
I just took the Elise down after a month on stands and ramps. I'm using a fine, vintage (~1970) pair of pressed steel ramps with deep tire retention divots in them that are a little narrow for the Elise rear tires, and cost a couple inches of height. I filled the divots with big chunks of 2x8 and set the tire on that after jacking the rear at point A.
Jacking the front of the car at a front jacking point (B) allowed putting the jack stand/wood block under a suspension pickup point. There's so little weight on the front of the car that a jack on one side will lift both front wheels off the ground. I sneaked my baby scissors jack (a VW Scirocco/Audi Fox item I got out of a junkyard decades ago and has been used constantly since - I wish I had five) under the driver's side front jack point with a block on it and cranked it up to level the car.
Not completely ideal (that would be a four post lift), but quite stationary, high enough for me to get under on a creeper, and saved me rolling the hydraulic floor jack around the front of the car again.
One thing I always do with any vehicle on stands is give it a bump with a hip before I crawl under it or take a wheel off. It's much better to have a jack stand demonstrate instability when the car can land on its own wheels and not you. Likewise, I tend to leave the hydraulic jack under the car raised but unloaded at the jack point even though the car is supported by stands. Why remove a redundant source of lift if you don't need to?
A point of concern: The generic imported cheapie jack stand of the last couple of decades has a U-shaped release lever for the ratchet pawl that holds the stand up. If you have the stand under your 6000 LB truck it works perfectly. Such a jack under the front of a car as light as a Lotus is a little dangerous
- the stand can be made to release with an accidental bump into the U shaped pawl lever, because there's not a lot of weight holding it in place. I use stands like this, but am careful to pay attention to where the release levers point.