Starting the Rebuild Process - 06 Elise - Page 8 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #141 of 210 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry to hear about your troubles. Was looking forward to seeing it all in person at some point. What do you think of the Lotus "Signature Orange"...you can see the gallery here:

Exige S Club Racer | LCI Limited

Video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoN0aBMgrEI

And are you painting this time around? Or still autoflex?
No more autoflex, never again!
But i am considering painting it myself especially if i did a flatter orage like that, which is nice. Porsche has an orange thats similar to that color as well.
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post #142 of 210 (permalink) Old 07-13-2018, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Tonight made some lemonade from lemons. Loosly bolted at least the major panels on the car tonight for cars and coffee tomorrow.
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post #143 of 210 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
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BTW just found another color option. The Mclaren Volcano orange doesn't release paint codes, and I believe even if we sourced it, it was something along the lines of $1,000 a quart is what we heard through the grape vine.
Stryker Orange from the viper has a paint code we can find, but @ 15K option from the factory, I haven't even looked into the price of materials, because I figure it's nearly as ludicrous.

After searching for nearly a year I seem to still not have turned over every stone on this, and I found a new color that seems very similar to Volcano orange and it's aptly named....Lava orange metallic and was a pretty rare option on the BMW bikes. It has a paint code, and it looks like I can source the paint, and if it needs to be matched down the line a different shop can work on it because it's not some crazy candy job, thoughts?

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post #144 of 210 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 11:47 AM
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Got finsihed with those 2 problem fiberglass areas. This was really the first time that I had to reschape a complex curve rather than just fix something that was cracked, but I just kept at it and I have videos of the entire process actually, which hopefully we can turn into sticky material for fiberglass repair here on the board, because if you own one of these cars it should be pre-requisite, because based on how thin and flimsy all of the panels on these cars are, you're bound to crack one at some point, and fiberglass repair is no harder than paper-mache.

Reshaping something is a bit tougher, so the process in this video would be more than anyone needs.

The almost finished product for that point that was sticking out at the end of the front clam (where it meets the door)



and Primered



Mounted in Place:



The rear fender, I actually just shaved down to match the body line of the rocker panel, and you can't even notice it's thinner there:




Just had to take her out for a drive when I was done mounting and aligning the body panels:
Please post the FB repair videos on the forum and ask the mods to make them a sticky.

05 Elise, ST, sports, touring, hardtop, DBA 4000 slotted discs, Ferodo DS2500 pads, Sector 111 gpan3, EP Tuning Quickrack, Pro Alloy rad, DS brace, HnT pad, front and rear tow hooks, CG lock, ORE double cup holder (caffeine for track); '86 911 Targa (sold); '68 MGB (being restored)
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post #145 of 210 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Ls1Rx7 View Post
BTW just found another color option. The Mclaren Volcano orange doesn't release paint codes, and I believe even if we sourced it, it was something along the lines of $1,000 a quart is what we heard through the grape vine.
Stryker Orange from the viper has a paint code we can find, but @ 15K option from the factory, I haven't even looked into the price of materials, because I figure it's nearly as ludicrous.

After searching for nearly a year I seem to still not have turned over every stone on this, and I found a new color that seems very similar to Volcano orange and it's aptly named....Lava orange metallic and was a pretty rare option on the BMW bikes. It has a paint code, and it looks like I can source the paint, and if it needs to be matched down the line a different shop can work on it because it's not some crazy candy job, thoughts?

Thumbs up from me. Definitely a sharp color. And if it's easily sourced, that's a definite plus.
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post #146 of 210 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Please post the FB repair videos on the forum and ask the mods to make them a sticky.
Thanks man, I actually already made a new thread (figured that was better forum etiquette):
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f92...repair-459488/

They would have to decide if it's sticky worthy. I think we probably need some more contributions from smart folks, but my hope was that someone in a jam who's looking at a small fiberglass repair decides to tackle it themselves instead of bringing it to a shop. Small cracks are REALLY REALLY easy to fix.

Even large cracks can be pretty easy, like is so common with a front clam that's all cracked up from hitting or curb or something in the road and the bottom part of the clam gets torn, evne that repair as scary as it looks likely wouldn't be hard to fix.

At least if you can fix the fiberglass too, your options with regards to body shops opens tremendously. When you mention fiberglass repair, most shops don't want to touch it. Once the fiberglass is in place (even if it's not pretty) any old body shop should be able to take it from there.
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post #147 of 210 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 01:03 PM
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Thanks man, I actually already made a new thread (figured that was better forum etiquette):
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f92...repair-459488/

They would have to decide if it's sticky worthy. I think we probably need some more contributions from smart folks, but my hope was that someone in a jam who's looking at a small fiberglass repair decides to tackle it themselves instead of bringing it to a shop. Small cracks are REALLY REALLY easy to fix.

Even large cracks can be pretty easy, like is so common with a front clam that's all cracked up from hitting or curb or something in the road and the bottom part of the clam gets torn, evne that repair as scary as it looks likely wouldn't be hard to fix.

At least if you can fix the fiberglass too, your options with regards to body shops opens tremendously. When you mention fiberglass repair, most shops don't want to touch it. Once the fiberglass is in place (even if it's not pretty) any old body shop should be able to take it from there.
I also recommend checking out the youtube channel "B is for Build" and watch the series on rebuilding a Lotus Evora. He shows a pretty good example of his learning curve with fiberglass repair and some of the mistakes and adjustments he made in the process.

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post #148 of 210 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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I also recommend checking out the youtube channel "B is for Build" and watch the series on rebuilding a Lotus Evora. He shows a pretty good example of his learning curve with fiberglass repair and some of the mistakes and adjustments he made in the process.
I'm going to quote your post and add my reply to the fiberglass thread
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post #149 of 210 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Ls1Rx7 View Post
Thanks man, I actually already made a new thread (figured that was better forum etiquette):
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f92...repair-459488/

They would have to decide if it's sticky worthy. I think we probably need some more contributions from smart folks, but my hope was that someone in a jam who's looking at a small fiberglass repair decides to tackle it themselves instead of bringing it to a shop. Small cracks are REALLY REALLY easy to fix.

Even large cracks can be pretty easy, like is so common with a front clam that's all cracked up from hitting or curb or something in the road and the bottom part of the clam gets torn, evne that repair as scary as it looks likely wouldn't be hard to fix.

At least if you can fix the fiberglass too, your options with regards to body shops opens tremendously. When you mention fiberglass repair, most shops don't want to touch it. Once the fiberglass is in place (even if it's not pretty) any old body shop should be able to take it from there.
Thanks for the link. Will check it out. Perhaps we need a Lotus fiberglass repair wiki (as well as a sticky) where people can add their own expertise to an ongoing thread.

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post #150 of 210 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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So I think I already told you guys this car might be cursed and I don't think anyone took me seriously.
Well, I went on a cruise yesterday from the boston area to Cape cod (about an hour drive without traffic)

This was invite only, and about 200 exotic cars. It was by police escort the entire way, and the big dollar cars at the front of the pack were running a strong pace that was hard to keep up with without weaving through traffic and trying hard to keep up.
I know in our smaller slower group towards the back we were pushing doing a lot of 80-100 with bursts to 120-140, we actually had a pretty serious pucker moment as we came up on traffic that was stopped dead stopped at one of our fastest paces. Myself, a ferarri, an s2000, a corvette and a 991 porsche all made a stop from 140-0 successfully, thank god but the smell of brakes was very real.


I guess I naively didn't expect speeds like that and while I didn't think the car was really ready for that, I felt mechanically, I'd been driving the car all summer and felt it would go, stop and steer as consistently as ever, but when we left the show, we hopped back on the hgihway quickly to visit my wife's family the next town over. After hours of high speed driving, I take the last corner, to go into town, and I start hearing a thunk thunk thunk (that varies with speed, not rpm) I thought I had a flat, thats the best way to describe it, but I'm doing 20 mph so if you had the radio up you wouldn't have even heard it, and I didn't feel anything particularly different at that speed.

So I pull over (in the middle of down town) and I try to reverse into a spot. The car binds when I put it in reverse as if the parking brake is on. So I hop out. Look at the rear wheel and see it's tucked more than usual. I look through the spokes of the wheel and I see axle grease everywhere and then I see it.... the top ball joint is completely seperated from the spindle.


That nut could have come off before the cruise even started and I could have been driving that whole time with nothing more than friction holding that ball joint in place. I'm 100% sure both my wife and I would be dead if that had failed on the highway.

Fancy cars get a lot more attention when they're being loaded on a trailer in the middle of town:







What the wheel looked like after backing it off the trailer:







I don't know what happened to these threads, but the tow truck driver during our hour plus ride home asked me a good question. He said did you forget to put the cotter pin back in.... and I thought for a second.... and I'm like yeah that's right there's cotter pins on ball joints but I don't remember there being one on this car. And low and behold, these cars dont have cotter pins. Just a nylock nut which obviously wasn't enough in this case. Suffice to say I should be dead, along with my wife, and I'll be drilling all of these ball joints and adding cotter pins just to be sure, plus I think it makes sense to actually bring this car to the dealer spend for an hour or 2 of labor and just have them double check my work. before final reasembly.
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post #151 of 210 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 07:50 AM
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wow. I'm glad you're okay- that's scary, and it seems like you handled it well.
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post #152 of 210 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 09:45 AM
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Just reading through this now. Your project and mine are cut from the same cloth. I'm so sorry to hear of all the paint troubles, it sucks having to rely on other people. Most don't care enough about your project to do a good job and a lot of people are just plain incompetent. Was there anything else damaged when the ball joint let go? I've never heard of the ball joints on these cars failing in such a fashion before...
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Thinking of K-swapping? Here's an idea of the cost involved.

2006 LOTUS EXIGE (ASPEN WHITE) Honda K24A2 + MPx90 supercharger. 322whp/271lb-ft @13psi. Build thread here.
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post #153 of 210 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Just reading through this now. Your project and mine are cut from the same cloth. I'm so sorry to hear of all the paint troubles, it sucks having to rely on other people. Most don't care enough about your project to do a good job and a lot of people are just plain incompetent. Was there anything else damaged when the ball joint let go? I've never heard of the ball joints on these cars failing in such a fashion before...
Don't know how I missed your reply.

BTW still trying to figure out how to get this stuff off the car, I'm likely going to have to sue the guy who applied it. And I think Stryker orange is the right color for the car.
Car went on another 3 day rally and survived mostly (other than fading the brakes at the track) so that's a good first step to getting the car back on track

Just enjoying it now until the end of the short summer and then it's all coming apart again
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post #154 of 210 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 12:45 PM
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Don't know how I missed your reply.

BTW still trying to figure out how to get this stuff off the car, I'm likely going to have to sue the guy who applied it. And I think Stryker orange is the right color for the car.
Car went on another 3 day rally and survived mostly (other than fading the brakes at the track) so that's a good first step to getting the car back on track

Just enjoying it now until the end of the short summer and then it's all coming apart again
Argh. Coming apart for paint? Or mechanical/electrical work? How is the powertrain holding up? Ever figure out your brake fade issue?

Thinking of K-swapping? Here's an idea of the cost involved.

2006 LOTUS EXIGE (ASPEN WHITE) Honda K24A2 + MPx90 supercharger. 322whp/271lb-ft @13psi. Build thread here.
1994 AUTOZAM AZ-1 MAZDASPEED Japanese Super Kei!
2014 FIAT 500e Hydroelectric powered EV daily driver.
2007 SUZUKI SV650 Track bike.
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post #155 of 210 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Argh. Coming apart for paint? Or mechanical/electrical work? How is the powertrain holding up? Ever figure out your brake fade issue?
I'm actually doing the DIY'ers wost nightmare. I'm bringing it to the dealership.
I bought the stainless steel brake pistons from BOE, I'll change the fluid and get back out there, but next week the car's going to the dealership for nothing more than to get an experienced second set of eyes on the mechanicals.

My Ls1 rx7 that thing held together when it had no right or business staying stuck together. This car falls apart no matter how detailed you are. I went through and replaced most of the hardware in the rear suspension/brakes. Locktighted the crap out of everything and torqued all to spec.

So this is by far the most tempermental car I've dealt with.
So they'll hopefully check the brakes, just make sure everything looks right and hopefully figure out the noise and maybe the fading issue.

The car is coming apart to strip this black garbage off of it and to finally give it the paint job that it deserves. It will be orange damn it!! I command it, and it will have very cool satin black and carbon fiber accents.

I still am thinking about K20 swapping it, but this portion has become a bit of a money pit. I may just make the car really clean/nice and buy a more hardcore track car. But I'm watching your thread closely.
I'm mostly curious about how the end product is to live with. Mostly worried about the very stiff engine mounts that come with these K20 swap kits, and the half baked shifter options, making the factory shifter even more vague. Not having AC kinda stinks too.

These could all be minor, or real annoyances, so I'm curious to get your feedback
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post #156 of 210 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 01:40 PM
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I'm actually doing the DIY'ers wost nightmare. I'm bringing it to the dealership.
I bought the stainless steel brake pistons from BOE, I'll change the fluid and get back out there, but next week the car's going to the dealership for nothing more than to get an experienced second set of eyes on the mechanicals.

My Ls1 rx7 that thing held together when it had no right or business staying stuck together. This car falls apart no matter how detailed you are. I went through and replaced most of the hardware in the rear suspension/brakes. Locktighted the crap out of everything and torqued all to spec.

So this is by far the most tempermental car I've dealt with.
So they'll hopefully check the brakes, just make sure everything looks right and hopefully figure out the noise and maybe the fading issue.

The car is coming apart to strip this black garbage off of it and to finally give it the paint job that it deserves. It will be orange damn it!! I command it, and it will have very cool satin black and carbon fiber accents.

I still am thinking about K20 swapping it, but this portion has become a bit of a money pit. I may just make the car really clean/nice and buy a more hardcore track car. But I'm watching your thread closely.
I'm mostly curious about how the end product is to live with. Mostly worried about the very stiff engine mounts that come with these K20 swap kits, and the half baked shifter options, making the factory shifter even more vague. Not having AC kinda stinks too.

These could all be minor, or real annoyances, so I'm curious to get your feedback
Damn, that's really odd, I've never come across anyone on the forums with issues of their suspension components rattling loose.

I think the orange with satin black will be killer. I'm sorry it's taken this roundabout way to get there. That blows.

You could always get a salvage Elise and k-swap that! The engine mounts are a bit stiff but for track duty, it'll be perfect. The shifter options are not many but the ones that do exist are great. My AliTech shifter is absolutely amazing but they have stopped producing them. Leaving you with InoKinetic's shifter, which by all accounts is fantastic. The Honda Civic Si gearbox is a great transmission and if you throw in some MTEC shift springs and SpeedFactory shift detent springs the shift feel is fantastic (assuming you've sturdied up your shifter with InoKinetic's solution or some other equivalent product).

On a k-swapped street car.... As far as AC goes, it's completely possible. You'd have to get a shop to fab you up a bracket and adapt some lines for the Toyota compressor but it's doable. Member @Reach has done it. If you want to use BOE's Front HEX like I am, you'll have to mount the HEX under the crash structure in the front of the car. This comes with its own compromises in terms of air flow, but that's the compromise if you want AC. Or you can go with their side scoop heat exchanger and not have to mess with the front of the car at all, but it's less charge cooling. It all depends on your willingness to compromise, obviously.

But if you are swapping a dedicated track toy, AC won't have to be a concern?

Thinking of K-swapping? Here's an idea of the cost involved.

2006 LOTUS EXIGE (ASPEN WHITE) Honda K24A2 + MPx90 supercharger. 322whp/271lb-ft @13psi. Build thread here.
1994 AUTOZAM AZ-1 MAZDASPEED Japanese Super Kei!
2014 FIAT 500e Hydroelectric powered EV daily driver.
2007 SUZUKI SV650 Track bike.
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post #157 of 210 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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This **** show... I mean rebuild has started. Car drove through the summer without major hiccup, and did 2 major cruises along with about 2-3,000 miles.

I gave up after 4-5 hours. Looks like I'll be spending more money for a shop to strip this

I'll be honest at the moment I'm really pissed and I'm wondering why I haven't sued this jerk already.
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post #158 of 210 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 03:35 PM
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wasn't this car cursed or something? I'm glad to see you're posting about your project again, but sorry for your troubles.

how is that failed autoflex coming off? sanding, flaking, gummy?
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post #159 of 210 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 09:50 PM
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Your update prompted me to update my thread too.

But, can you explain again what was wrong with the black paint? I mean, I thought it looked pretty good but of course pictures online aren't reality.

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post #160 of 210 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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wasn't this car cursed or something? I'm glad to see you're posting about your project again, but sorry for your troubles.

how is that failed autoflex coming off? sanding, flaking, gummy?
Lol we're putting it through a very long arduous exorcism.
Just not coming off very easily. Only acetone seems to be taking it off and acetone evaporates very quickly so it evaporates before it can really do it's thing.

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Your update prompted me to update my thread too.

But, can you explain again what was wrong with the black paint? I mean, I thought it looked pretty good but of course pictures online aren't reality.
The car was Autflexed, not painted. Autoflex is like plasti dip but it has a clear coat on it. It's supposed to be applied like paint and be applied with the same care/quality as a paint job although it's supposed to go over existing paint. This installer told me we could apply it over primer if I sanded the whole car to a very fine/smooth 1000 grit sand paper finish.

For reference most cars are sanded with 400 grit as a final step before paint. Concourse de elegance cars might be sanded to 600 grit, I went to 1000. So the amount of prep that went into making the surface smooth was better than the best paint jobs.
So lots of work in hopes that we could test this wild orange "Volcano Orange" out before I painted the car that color.

Unfortunately, instead of getting an orange car, I somehow got a black car... still never got an explanation for that.
Which wasn't a huge deal until I found out the "removable" coating wasn't acting removable and needed to be liquified to be removed.. so there in lies the major rub with the job.

I actually got so mad after about 5 hours of stripping the car, I finally overtly threatened the guy who did this, told him I was going after him, his employer for triple damages.
And what do you know he coordinated with my body shop to pay for the removal of this stuff, which is approx $2,500 to remove it alone.

So thats where we stand, I'm drafting an agreement now, and my hope is to now have the body shop that's painting the car, strip it as well, at his expense.

Everyone Keep your fingers crossed
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