Larini really close to Difflow.... Any Ideas? - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Question Larini really close to Difflow.... Any Ideas?

I just installed two brand new parts, and even though the parts installed perfectly (exhaust is straight.....diffuser is level), the exhaust tip seems close to the extended Difflow diffuser. These are the parts I installed:

LARINI Exige S GT2 SE (Side Exit) 6Ē x 18Ē Chrome Exhaust LA0072GT2SE

DIFFLOW Black 5-Element Rounded Aluminum Diffuser w/ Rubber Edging


I already tried rotating the exhaust. I also tried dropping the diffuser as low as it will go in the slotted side holes, but I'm not getting any additional distance between the two.

Does anyone have this extended diffuser and exhaust? I haven't started the car yet, and wondering if this looks correct before I do. If not, what would be a good fix? I have a clam hinge on the exige, so I'd prefer to leave the exhaust where it is and drop the diffuser if anything.

If I leave it, is the exhaust gases going to melt the rubber edging and/or discolor the black diffuser?

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 05:31 PM
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It looks fine to me. I don't think you'll have any issues with heat.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 07:13 PM
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I see your point that it looks close, but I think you should be okay. You shouldnít have to worry about contact between the two unless you do heavy engine braking like an 18 wheeler. On my Evora, thereís a metal ďmeshĒ bracket that curls around the top of the exhaust tips and thatís where I get a bit of scuffing; Iím fairly sure that when accelerating the exhaust tip will move upward, away from your diffuser. Just always be on the gas and youíll be fine haha.

You may see a bit of soot on that edging of the diffuser, but thatís because itís behind the tip. Iím not sure youíll see it melt, but if it did, you could replace it or remove it.

I donít think youíll discolor the paint of the diffuser with that much gap and that much open area above the diffuser which is cooling the exhaust and gases. You may see a small amount of contact, but itíd be rare assuming your engine mounts are in good shape.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 10:10 PM
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Iíve had exhaust that close and if you can Iíd try to make more room. It will likely melt that rubber edging with enough use. It may also get hot enough for the aluminum diffuser to warp slightly there, if you track at all that would be my concern. Not a safety issue but something to consider.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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Arrow NEW vs OLD

Looks like my OCD finally paid off as I was able to find a photo of the new diffuser mounted with the old exhaust before I mounted the new exhaust (both exhaust are idential Larini LA0072GT2SE).

So, I took the exact same photo with the new exhaust and it looks like the tip was welded at a different angle?.....or, the exhaust hanger rod on the right was welded at a different angle or it got bent in shipping (it's super strong so I doubt it got bent)?......or, something else is going on?

Any ideas for a fix without sending a brand new exhaust back to Larini or having a welder rotate the tip?

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 08:04 AM
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The last photos definitely seem to show a big difference in angle of the outlet. For the money you paid for the muffler I’d say send it back. Had to be welded incorrectly. Having someone weld again will hurt the appearance, you could heat pipe red hot and twist but this would leave heating marks also.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 08:37 AM
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Those photos do make the tip seem too close for comfort. Itís not the first time Larini has welded an exhaust at an odd angle. I had to get a new tip on my Evora exhaust because the exit was tilted down on one side (slash tips). I had a joint to easily replace the poorly angled bits, but this does look solid without any joints.

Iím assuming the muffler portion is sitting in the heat shielding well as that location seems to be spot on between the two. If there was room and enough flex in the rest of the exhaust, you could try to bend both mounting hangers down to raise the tip, but this would be a bandaid to the true problem. It looks like Larini goofed and didnít weld the tip on high enough.

When I had my issue, I had bought the muffler from Sector111 and the issue was fully resolved without any stress on my part. Heck, I didnít even complain, it was brought up in conversation on a follow up call from Sector111 when they checked to see if I had any issues. Those guys were awesome and it was resolved very quickly. I would contact the seller and see what can be done about a potential replacement if youíd like the tip in the place where the old exhaust sat.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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Superimpose

Yes, great recommendation..... I'm now in contact with the seller, Fred at Black Watch Racing, to see what the next step is. The exhaust is still brand new, and never had any exhaust gases pass though it yet, so it should be able to be welded on without issues since the metal isn't 'dirty' or contaminated.

I guess I have 2 options......
1.) Larini sends me a new exhaust
2.) The 2.5" pipe is cut right after it exits the can and a V band clamp is welded on, allowing the tip to then be rotated to any angle. This would require ($) someone to cut the pipe, and weld on the 2 flanges, then attach with the V band.



Here is an image of both photos superimposed on top of each other, showing everything is identical except for the welded tip.

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 05:24 PM
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You can loosen the hangers and clamp to rotate the whole exhaust and retighten to see if that helps.

** save ~10 lbs gain 1 hp ** EQ: Y=(190*X) / (1984-X) where Y is (HP) and X is (lbs)

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 07:17 AM
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You should be able to loosen the clamps and rotate it a bit...maybe find the sweet spot between the clam and diffuser.

I have a through diffuser larini on my difflow diffuser. I think I must shoot flames cause Ive been melting the edging I've put on it.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Already tried loosening and rotating.....several times

I've tried loosing and rotating several times, and there isn't enough play to rotate the tip the distance it needs. Things I've already tried without luck:
1.) Loosen the exhaust at the test pipe and hangers and rotate
2.) Loosen the connections at both ends of the test pipe and the exhaust and rotate
3.) Loosen all the diffuser attachment bolts and try to drop the diffuser as low as it will go in the slotted side holes

Looks like at this point, I have 2 options to fix the tip that was welded in the wrong location. I'm waiting to hear back from Fred at Black Watch Racing to see what the next step is, but the 2 options I see is:
1.) Larini sends me a new exhaust
2.) The 2.5" pipe is cut right after it exits the can and a V band clamp assembly is welded on, allowing the tip to then be rotated to any angle. This would require ($$) someone to cut the pipe, and weld on the 2 flanges, then attach with the V band.



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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 08:38 PM
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The exhaust will rotate a lot. My old Larini SE would go from hitting the bottom of the clam, to almost hitting the diffuser. It rotates around the top hanger and the muffler when rotating up, will cause the muffler to pull father away from the engine and might hit your rear panel.

When I ran the euro rear panel the exhaust position had to be spot on. Loosening the exhaust clamp and trying to rotate it by hand never worked. What i would do is loosen the clamp but not make it loose and then stick a broom handle in the tip and carefully rotate it to where I wanted it and then tighten the clamp back down.

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 03:25 AM
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You have 3 points of attachment, pipe and 2 hangers. A triangle, hard to move.

I wonder if tweaking the passenger side hanger is what is required.

If you bend it a small amount toward the rear of the car[I think I have that right] it should allow you to rotate the pipe and cause the tip to move upwards


I think
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaExige View Post
I've tried loosing and rotating several times, and there isn't enough play to rotate the tip the distance it needs. Things I've already tried without luck
Then you will need to remove the exhaust and take it to a shop so they can reweld the hangers. I had this done on my second exhaust as it was too close to the rear clam. It actually burnt it, but was able to clean it up with clay bar. Anyway, the will cut the hangers short and weld on and adjacent piece either in front of or behind the existing hanger to rotate the exhaust up or down.

** save ~10 lbs gain 1 hp ** EQ: Y=(190*X) / (1984-X) where Y is (HP) and X is (lbs)

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 08:52 AM
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That is frustrating! Sorry man! I have a Larini that I purchased/installed several years ago but the angle of the the tip and to a small degree front/back play is adjustable via a ball joint. Granted it is a club sport but it looks like they ditched the adjustable tip across the board when looking at what they have today for Elise\Exige.

I tried to angle mine where it would not be as close to the clam so it does point downward slightly. I put some thermal tape on the underside lip of the rear clam, you can kind of see it in the picture. I will say even though my angle is not as downward pointing as yours, the top of my Difflow is discolored a bit under the exhaust tip (I tend to pop a lot of flames).

Good luck with your fix, otherwise looks great!
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: Fred at Black Watch Racing heard back from Larini, and Larini is going to "make me a new exhaust with a clamp", which they said is how they used to make the US-spec exhausts.

I'm guessing it will be a ball joint (like Mobius97's photo) or a v-band clamp. However, either way sounds like a great solution to a problem that several have or have had as there is only so much adjustment that can be made without causing stress or tweaking things. Rotating the exhaust on the hangers quickly changes the angle and attachment distance at the test pipe/cat (been there, done that), so I'll be more than happy with an adjustable tip~!!
XHILR8N! and Mobius97 like this.

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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 02:42 PM
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I'm sure you know but the repackable line of mufflers from bwr all have
adjustable tips using a standard band clamp. Once your packing material
blows out and melts it sounds like marbles in a can... then get the repackable ST.

I had a Larini SE dual tip with Euro panel. The packing melted within a few track days
and sounded horrible. Good luck!

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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepe View Post
I'm sure you know but the repackable line of mufflers from bwr all have
adjustable tips using a standard band clamp. Once your packing material
blows out and melts it sounds like marbles in a can... then get the repackable ST.

I had a Larini SE dual tip with Euro panel. The packing melted within a few track days
and sounded horrible. Good luck!
I had my Larini all of a month or two and bought the BWR Silent Touch. I've never looked back and added liteness to boot (literally added liteness to the boot).

San

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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 03:13 PM
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I have repacked my Silent Touch about 6 times. I experimented
with nearly every fiberglass material, stainless steel mesh, stainless
steel cloth, and different bland clamps.....I finally came
up with the best solution that will not blow out, at least it
hasn't yet. These are BristolCore products:

- wrap the entire length of the core with S400 steel wool sheet (14.5" by 24"), but
leave enough room for the core to slot into the mating holes. Secure with worm
clamps every six inches or so. Be sure to secure the ends especially well so the
steel wool does not slide down the core. Trim off excess worm gear end bands because it
will get stuck on the fiberglass packing otherwise.
-fill can with spec 19 (*do not use the fiberglass mat, it will burn up very quickly), use
a dowel, rod, etc. to push the fiberglass down into the muffler but don't push too hard, just enough to
lightly compact the material. Be sure to add enough fiberglass at the endocarp to account for the space
between the endcarp and muffler body or else you will have a void with no packing material in that area.
This will reduce flow and create unnecessary heat in the endcap.
- use permatex high heat copper sealant around the mating surfaces between end cap and body to prevent
exhaust gas leaks. The muffler body may distort through the many heat cycles and if the bands holding the
can to the mounting bracket are tightened too much causing the body to indent/bend then this may cause exhaust
gases to leak past the mating point.
-if one of the screw fastener locations strips or has to drilled out then use steel rivets (not aluminum)

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