Oil Cooler Sandwich Plate - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Cooler Sandwich Plate

OK, I have heard all of this talk about needing to update the sandwich plate on the 2ZZ motor to add a thermostat style. So, I purchased the Mishmoto plate. First off, I was surprised that the Lotus OEM plate on my car is a thermostat style. In fact, it uses the same style of thermostats that the Mishmoto plate uses. Second, the adapter fittings for the oil coolers line do not fit the Mishmoto plate.

Is my sandwich plate different than others because my car is a 2011? There is also a bleed screw on my plate that the Mishmoto does not have.

I would like to add a temp and pressure sensor to the motor since I just upgraded to the Garw dash. Any suggestions as to where to mount these and which ones to buy?

Thanks and Happy New Year,
Eldon
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 02:42 PM
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You can use the extra ports in the Mishmoto to add both pre. and temp. senders for the gauges. The OEM Lotus oil line fittings are BSP thread, and I believe the Mish. is metric, (I think 20mm) Someone here will chime in on exact size. Search for the huge, recent on-going thread on oil temps, sandwich plates, as it has all the info you are asking for.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 02:45 PM
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[sigh]

dude, read my thread, make sure you bought the exact plate listed and then contact me and I can get you the fittings

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f15...ooling-395394/
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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@tomrev and @exigegus , did either of you note that the OEM is thermostatically controlled? Why do I need to switch to the Mistmoto? @exigegus I dropped you a PM awhile back about the extra pieces that I would need and you did not respond. So, I believe I am the one that gets to say [sigh].

Later,
Eldon
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 03:40 PM
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I did respond, at least once

read the thread, the answers are there
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 03:42 PM
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The OEM thermostatic plate leaks past the thermostat when cold, so the oil that is cold is still sent through the cooler/s. The Mishimoto plate appears to not leak when cold and only opens when oil is up to temperature. There are a few on here that have plotted the warm up data of stock and mishimoto plates. The Mishimoto appears to have 100% better control of the temps when cool/cold.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 05:57 PM
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Both the stock Mocal and Mishimoto thermostats “leak” a small amount of oil through the cooler/coolers when oil is cold. As the oil heats up, the plunger closes the cooler bypass and all the oil will pass through the cooler. This is to prevent a shot of cold oil leaving the oil cooler and enter the engine after everything else has warmed up nicely.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-02-2019, 07:10 AM
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These oil thermostats are not either opened or closed from my understanding. The aperture is variable based on how hot the oil is. They will not suddenly open and allow a slug of cold oil into the system. As they slowly open, hot oil that is bypassing and cooler oil that has been through the coolers will mix. The thermostats job is to attempt to keep a constant temperature headed back to the engine.

The stock Mocal thermostat leaks enough that during moderate driving, the mixed oil will never get up to the thermostats set point temperature. If you search, there are users that reported oil temperatures never going above 140/150 degrees when driving on the street.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-02-2019, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
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These oil thermostats are not either opened or closed from my understanding. The aperture is variable based on how hot the oil is. They will not suddenly open and allow a slug of cold oil into the system. As they slowly open, hot oil that is bypassing and cooler oil that has been through the coolers will mix. The thermostats job is to attempt to keep a constant temperature headed back to the engine.

The stock Mocal thermostat leaks enough that during moderate driving, the mixed oil will never get up to the thermostats set point temperature. If you search, there are users that reported oil temperatures never going above 140/150 degrees when driving on the street.
Correct; in N. Mi. my Elise (SC'ed as well) would plant at 140ish, and stay there all day. I installed an Earl's type cooler in the pass. side rear air intake, and still had the same over cooled oil temps. I am now running without any cooler, and finally will warm up to 165 within 10-15 min. of my drive, and after another 10 min. will be at 180. I have to run her hard to ever see above 180. This is of course, on the street, and with a 6 Qt. oil pan, which probably accounts for my longer oil warm up times.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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So, I switched to the Mishmoto sandwich plate but added a couple of other goodies to make flushing the oil coolers easier. The new fittings are also radius.

Later,
Eldon
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 12:07 PM
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hey eldon, did you reuse the lotus oil filter union, or use the MWR one?

If the latter, how tight was the fit with the new sandwich plate?

I've got both parts ready for installation, but the tolerance is so close I'm wondering if thermal expansion of the sandwich plate could cause an issue (like cracking the plate). I'm not sure if it gets hot enough to matter.

"Give a man a match, and he'll be warm for a minute, but set him on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jds62f View Post
hey eldon, did you reuse the lotus oil filter union, or use the MWR one?

If the latter, how tight was the fit with the new sandwich plate?

I've got both parts ready for installation, but the tolerance is so close I'm wondering if thermal expansion of the sandwich plate could cause an issue (like cracking the plate). I'm not sure if it gets hot enough to matter.
Jeff,

I was told that Lotus had a bad batch of the union bolts that failed and destroyed a couple of motors. They failed fairly early in their life so I would guess if yours did not then I would not worry about it. I replaced mine because the failure year is close to my production year and I was in there any way. The MWR union was a little tighter but not enough that I am worried about it.

What I decided to do was add quick disconnects so that I can flush the oil out of the coolers and lines.

Later,
Eldon
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 01:32 PM
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If you are concerned about the fitting, buy the Mishimoto one, is is bound to fit
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 07:12 AM
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Eldon,
Your install looks slick. I am going to do this soon and was wondering if you have run yours yet to see if the quick connects are a leaking problem. I was hoping you'd be willing to supply a list of hardware/fittings as I'd like to duplicate what you've done on mine.
Thanks,
Gkart
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Eldon,
Your install looks slick. I am going to do this soon and was wondering if you have run yours yet to see if the quick connects are a leaking problem. I was hoping you'd be willing to supply a list of hardware/fittings as I'd like to duplicate what you've done on mine.
Thanks,
Gkart
I am not worried about the connectors leaking as these are used quite extensively by the racing industry. Both sides seal when disconnected to prevent any loss of fluid. The crush washers used for the AN to metric adapter have a rubber gasket to help stop leaks. The parts are not inexpensive, with the fittings to hook up to the lines to flush the system, you are in the $500-600 area. If still interested, let me know and I will pull together the part #s and sources.

Later,
Eldon
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 12:28 PM
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Thanks Eldon,

That is a little more than I imagined it would be but everything is for this car it seems. I already have the sandwich plate and will need fittings so I might as well do it "right". So, yes, please do list the parts when you have a chance. I'd also be interested to know which gauges you decided on and why. I'm considering a dual gauge (oil temp and pressure) so I don't take up too much valuable interior space.

Thanks
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 02:05 PM
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I went this route, the oil temp and pressure are Equiis gauges, and the wide band O2 gauge is Aem, they are very easy to read when on track. It works very well, and I am happy with the install.
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Boe REV 300 Supercharger.
Boe DMC Ultimate header.
Boe Clam Hinge.
Boe Pro Alloy Radiator.
Boe TOC wet sump oil pan.
Boe Fuel surge tank.
Boe Oil catch can.
Boe HP fixed rotors with Ferodo DS 2500 pads.
BWR Larini Group B Muffler.
BWR Street/Track Anti roll bar.
Mocal rear mounted oil cooler with fans.
V2 steering arms,
Nitron Singles 425/550.
InoKinetic DS rear toe links.
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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@Gkart

All of these parts were ordered from PegasusAutoRacing.com

2 - 3276-012 Male 20 x 1.5mm Metric Concave Seat to 10AN Male, Aluminum
2 - JT51310E Quick-Disconnect Socket to 10AN Female, 90 Degree
2 - JT52610 Quick-Disconnect Plug to 10AN Hose End
2 - JT51508 Quick-Disconnect Socket to 8AN Hose Barb

You will need crush washers for the 20mm to 10AN fittings. I found mine from a local supplier. The nice ones will have a rubber gasket on the inside to help prevent leakage. If you want to use the 1/8" NPT tap on the side of the Mishmoto adapter, you will need some extra fittings. What I would suggest is a 1/8" NPT to 3AN fitting then a line to remote mount the pressure sensor. My oil pan has a place for a temperature sensor so I used that.

I am installing one of the Garw dashes so I do not need any external gauges. I like @CRG53 's installation of gauges and would recommend that approach.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Take care,
Eldon
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-21-2019, 01:51 AM
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Eldon,
Thanks for the parts list. I appreciate it very much. I considered the garw but I think I'd like a more track oriented dash so may end up with the aim one once funds allow.

CRG53,
Thanks for the pics of the gauges. I have the same mount that I just received from Fred at Blackwatch. Glad to hear it works at the track. I've been concerned about the location and looking down while on track.

Regards,
Gkart
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