ORE Bi-Xenon Projector DIY Install Guide - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 63 (permalink) Old 07-14-2014, 07:43 PM
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Awesome instructions guys very thorough, between this thread and your last I'am sold were do a place an order? If this saves me from hitting a deer on the way to the cabin it was worth it.

Here;s the thread demonstrating the oblivious advantage of the ORE Bi-Xenon Projector https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/o...up-buy-228113/
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post #22 of 63 (permalink) Old 07-15-2014, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LotusManDan View Post
Awesome instructions guys very thorough, between this thread and your last I'am sold were do a place an order? If this saves me from hitting a deer on the way to the cabin it was worth it.

Here;s the thread demonstrating the oblivious advantage of the ORE Bi-Xenon Projector https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/o...up-buy-228113/
Dan we will set you up with a kit once the front clam comes in.
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post #23 of 63 (permalink) Old 07-21-2014, 09:32 PM
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I think I'll finally get around to this this weekend. The new wheel/tire package and janspeed exhaust had to come first . I'll post pictures.

-Rich

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post #24 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 01:25 PM
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One of the advantages of being local to ORE is the in-person suggestions when you pick your stuff up at the headquarters....

Unless I missed it, one thing not mentioned in this thread is that you'll need to poke the original headlamp wires back into the clam. You'll discover this on your own, probably after you just put the headlamp assembly back in, but it's far easier to do with everything out of the way. There's a gasket that you may need to make a small cut in to get the larger connector (blue wire) through. I'd recommend that you don't remove it (like I did) unless you're having a lot of trouble. DO NOT push the marker light or high beam wires through there....



In addition to the 3 lock nuts in the wheel well, I also had a tiny bolt on the inside holding my assembly in, which took my smallest adjustable wrench to remove (bolt visible at the top of this picture).



The other fun thing about taking your car apart is discovering how much the previous owners screwed it up when they put in high-wattage headlamps....
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post #25 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 02:20 PM
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Wow those pictures are so big I can see the blood cells in your fingers!!

Just wanted to add that a little bit of heat can make Loctite loosen up quite nicely. I tried it on a couple bolts I thought I was going to snap off (Loctite Red), and they came apart easy. I used a heat gun, but in a pinch you could probably use a small torch as long as you don't fry anything nearby.. Also completely unrelated but fun fact - with the same heat gun or torch you can render high-strength Neodymium (hard drive / etc) magnets completely useless. Get 'em hot and they're not magnets any more..

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post #26 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-10-2014, 11:52 PM
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Okay, I finally got around to doing this after taking my car back to the body shop to redo the clam repair that was boofed, and it being gone for half of of August and part of September. It turned out awesome! Some feedback:
  • I consider myself 'advanced' when it comes to automotive work, but I've definitely changed a timing belt and water pump, belts, hoses, and done an oil change in less time than this took (7.5 hrs or so). I attribute this mostly to:
  • The kit *really* needs an entire new vertical adjustment assembly (bolt, plastic socket, clip, cap nut) included. Both of the bolts snapped while attempting to loosen the nut from the bolt, and any chance of finding a similarly strange bolt after 9 (when my local auto parts store closes) was nil, so I needed to go to lowe's and get a 2" # 10 32 screw bag, which luckily came with bolts, since the socket wasn't going to work with a flat head or round head bolt.

    What took close to 3 hours was figuring out a solution to aim the lights reliably in lieu of the broken parts, which meant installing and removing the headlamp assembly about 8 times on one side until I had something workable. I ended up putting a stop nut between the lower bracket and the ORE bracket, then loctiting another bolt in front of the ORE bracket. It wasn't pretty, and after each adjustment upwards, I needed to push back on the headlamp assembly to make it take the adjustment, then spin the stop bolt until it reached the back of the headlight bracket (downwards adjustment required loosening the stop bolt then spinning the loctited bolt).
  • This would have taken half the time if I didn't break the bolt. I'm certain you can find these, along with the rest of the adjustment hardware somewhere.
  • I needed to bend the bracket back to make it clear the headlamp cover, requiring horizontal alignment too
  • Installing the headlamp cover made the lights aim downward about 4 inches at 3 feet. Also, how hard you tighten them affects the aim as well
  • If you do this, you'll definitely want to mark a wall in your garage /shop/ whereever with where the OEM lights currently sit vertically and horizontally, and don't move your car until you complete aligning the lamps.
  • Agreed with what was said above regarding assembling the lower bracket before shipping. Also, quick finish work on the plastic flashing would have made it a little more polished.
  • I used "mega-strength" 3M velcro competitor strips to fix the ballast on the side of the headlight bucket. So far so good.
  • I bought a VVME 5000k HID kit with mini thin ballasts. I was pleased, except I needed to cut the grommet a bit to fit the wires through because the connectors were already attached.

Alright, all that aside, this was definitely worth it. The light output is easily 2 - 3 times what the OEM setup was, and the beam pattern, spread, and cutoff are OEM-grade xenon. I went a little on the high end for color temp, but it is still quite white and doesn't look weird (with just a hint of purple at the edges). I researched a few manufacturers and found the VVME was very accurate with the color temps, while other manufacturers ran much higher than advertised.

Sorry for the crappy pic! Now I need to replace the running lights with LEDs so it doesn't look so orange.



-Rich

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post #27 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-11-2014, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Rich you were my biggest skeptic. Are you fully satisfied? We will already talked to the dealer about replacement screws and Lotus said that we have to buy the whole assembly. We will be looking into making our own at this point.
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post #28 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-12-2014, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Lowtush View Post
Rich you were my biggest skeptic. Are you fully satisfied? We will already talked to the dealer about replacement screws and Lotus said that we have to buy the whole assembly. We will be looking into making our own at this point.
I wouldn't say skeptic, but pain in the ass maybe . I'm fully satisfied, thank you.

You may want to look at adjuster mechanisms from other cars, though most are set up differently, you'd just need a way to keep the stationary threaded plastic clip that is on most affixed to the headlight bracket. And probably thread your aluminum brackets differently as the #10 32 thread used on the lotus bracket isn't all that common.

-Rich

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post #29 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-12-2014, 04:33 PM
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I looked at literally hundreds of cars in the junkyard a couple weeks ago for a similar adjuster; nothing.. Most are internal to the (sealed) headlights these days, and the ones that are outside (older, 90's cars) are rusted to dust around here. A decent CNC lathe should have no problem turning them from stainless, though starting with an off-the-shelf screw to get the head (phillips or hex) may help so it wouldn't have to be punched.. I was going to look into it this weekend if I get a chance; at least modeling the stock one in SolidWorks. I've got my headlight assembly in my lap as I type this. LOL

Playing with SolidWorks.. An M5 x 40mm SHCS is almost perfect to turn down into a ball end.. The hex socket is about the same diameter as the flat on the ball though.. It looks like it would work though, the way the ball pivots you'd still have access to the hex with a ball-end allen wrench. If we have some M5 SHCS's at work I'll see if I can turn one down on the lathe - it's not CNC and I don't have a ball turner attachment though.. Would be nice if the hex were one size smaller too. Actually anyone can simulate this with a drill (or drill press) and a file. I use my cordless drill and a file as a lathe all the time.... Just chuck it in the drill (don't damage the threads - sometimes I'll run a bunch of nuts down on the screw and grab those), get it as close as you can to a 7mm ball diameter, and polish it up with some 800 grit / 1000 grit paper..







The retainer ring seems to be for a 10mm shaft. McMaster doesn't have self-locking push-on retainer rings for 10mm shafts, but personally I'd use one of these instead so it's removable and reusable (without swearing or stabbing yourself), P/N 90967A160 in stainless:



Doing some more digging today; it looks like Volkswagen used the same bolts in their older Jettas, Sciroccos, etc.. But they're pretty hard to find apparently.



Though here's an eBay auction for some, $28 for 2 of what look almost identical to the Lotus parts.. (plus a 3rd that wouldn't be used) Nowhere can I find dimensions though, so just a guess at this point unless someone also has a VW they can take apart. Apparently none of the junkyard VW's I saw had these or I would have been jumping up and down at the junkyard..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-MK2-Golf-...4b16f1&vxp=mtr

Ebay searching "Volkswagen headlight adjuster" brings up a bunch of options, but looking like $15+ per screw to 'take a chance'.

Reproduction part -> http://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-...op-255941141-b $8+ shipping

More edits.. Apparently BMW uses some similar screws for 90's 5 and 7 series cars.. Still no mention of thread or ball size though, but another option to look for if junkyarding ->



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Last edited by Riceburner98; 09-13-2014 at 02:18 PM.
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post #30 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-12-2014, 06:54 PM
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I broke my adjuster bolts too. Tried slight heat, penetrant lubricant of various kinds; all to no avail. My opinion is "If you're doing this, just cut the cone nut off at the end with an air saw or cutoff wheel to begin with". There will at least be enough length to reassemble the lights. You'll have to remove and reinstall to adjust them, but you won't have to re-engineer the adjuster bolt.

I cobbled together a similar multi nut solution but also had to remove and install the headlight repeatedly. And I still think they're too low so they need to come out again.

The kit provides a tremendous upgrade regarding lighting. That part is phenomenal.

However, I'd like to know (honestly) how many cars Kevin and his team pulled apart and successfully did not break the bolts. A new bolt needs to be tooled and two included with each kit. To think that everyone's bolts would come apart was optimistic at best. Knowing the chance for it to break and not having a solution already done leads me to believe the R&D should have been a little longer.

Please don't take my criticism the wrong way, the product is a fantastic idea, works great, and provides a fantastic upgrade to the car. I just think we all need new bolts and the couple of bucks for them added to the price of the kit.
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post #31 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-14-2014, 01:01 PM
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Riceburner, thanks for all of your research and contributions. I bought the VW 3 piece set and I will report back if they work once they arrive.
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post #32 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-14-2014, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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This is something we are definitely looking into. We have pulled apart 3 cars with no issues.
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post #33 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-18-2014, 06:49 PM
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Riceburner, thanks for all of your research and contributions. I bought the VW 3 piece set and I will report back if they work once they arrive.

This VW setup arrived. My first reaction is that they are half the length that they need to be. I will pull the lights back out either this weekend or next week and try them. First impression is that they will not work as you will not have enough thread length for proper adjustment.
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post #34 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-20-2014, 01:55 PM
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Ah.. That stinks. Wish they listed the actual sizes in auctions like that. I find stuff all the time (grommets for example) that look perfect but are only listed as "Chevy xxx grommet" rather than giving some dimensions.. Pictures are hard to tell from.

The short Lotus ones are 30mm long overall, the long ones are 43mm long if it helps to not have to take the headlights out to check..

From the ORE pics ( https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/o...9/#post3274521 ) it looks like almost half the screw is unused in the end though?

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post #35 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-14-2014, 06:06 AM Thread Starter
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Heres the deal....we are going to custom fabricate the bolt. please put your name down if you have broken a bolt and is in need of a replacement.
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post #36 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-14-2014, 01:32 PM
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Hi Kevin

Talk about perfect timing.... I started the install last night and the bolts broke, so I need 2

Thanks

Alan

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post #37 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-14-2014, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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1. Cornbeef
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Anyone else?
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post #38 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-14-2014, 02:53 PM
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1. Cornbeef
2. Riceburner98
3. Eclipse19 (needs 2, 1 for each side)

Anyone else?

It is really a stand up type of company that realizes that the customers are having issues and will fabricate the part to fix the issue. That is really solid work ethic and honorable customer service. THANK YOU
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post #39 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-14-2014, 03:08 PM
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bofusric-will need 2 bolts
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post #40 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-14-2014, 05:08 PM
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Mr Tush,

I lost track. Have one set left?

Gil

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Driving Tips-https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f100...art-1-a-49665/
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