Wek120's 2gr elige build thread - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 186 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys! Yep black mesh is on the list but pretty far down right now. Working on headers and wiring right now.
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post #22 of 186 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Rear header modeled up with the 3d printed header Modeling blocks. Bought a dewalt chop saw and made a little jig to measure the elbows from what I found online. Took a couple hours but got them all cut. (Would probably use a bandsaw if I had a decent one). Definitely a lot of work to get the equal length and equal bends. Going to be a really tight fit.
Tacked together. Had to make some adjustments, couple gaps I need to clean up, but hope to start welding soon. Not sure how I'm going to make the collector, might just buy one...
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post #23 of 186 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 01:35 PM
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Awesome!!
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post #24 of 186 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!

Header runners welded up. Not the prettiest welds but all should hold adequately. Going to be a really close fit, about 2-3mm clearances in a lot of spots. Probably going to have to coat and wrap the headers then put up a heat shield. Onto the collector!
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post #25 of 186 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Collector tacked. Time for the hard welds.
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post #26 of 186 (permalink) Old 03-07-2016, 03:05 PM
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Awesome!! keep us posted
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post #27 of 186 (permalink) Old 03-13-2016, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Lots of progress finally.
Fabbed up the collector and welded the runners in place, turns out Tig welding the inside of a collector on the third pipe is a genuine pita. One full side of the headers done after a full day of welding. Decided to weld the inner side of the flange/pipe joints in order to get a good solid weld all the way around and not fight impossible weld spots. One thing is for sure, definitely never doing headers again, severely underestimated the amount of work it would be. Build would probably be done by now if I already had some.

Dropped the engine to check fit, just barely touching the aluminum mount and ecu, so probably going to eliminate or relocate. Only going to have about half inch to an inch clearance in back so may need to make some more room. Need to replace the heat shielding with something actually decent (anyone have any good heat shield material suggestions?)

Modeled up the remaining header. MUCH more working room, only took half a day this time and managed to get a good fit with the same length and bends.

Finally the fun part. Got the turbo out to check fitment. I picked up a 3" cast stainless 2 runner intake manifold … but Im not sure if Im a fan of it…. I may end up making one, but I won't be able to get as tight of angle runner bends… the cast one puts the turbo pretty far back too…. hmmmm
My original plan was to have it upright with the exhaust runners below the snail shell, but I think sitting flat will be better for keeping a lower CG and also give a bit more top clearance and keep it away from the head and throttle body.

Still deciding whether to use the 3" flex joints on the headers. I think I can get them to fit, and I know it is probably a good idea to reduce pipe stress due to thermal expansion differences… guess we'll see how much room I have to work with after the other header's done.
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post #28 of 186 (permalink) Old 03-13-2016, 09:54 PM
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I think you should just coat the exhaust bits (Swain Tech/Jethot). Wrap doesn't last and you're already out of room as far as clearances.

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post #29 of 186 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 04:09 AM Thread Starter
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That's exactly what I was thinking too. Swain tech looks best, but I wonder if it actually drops the heat 30-50% as posted on their site....
Any idea what it costs to coat the snail shells and the header piping?

I will most likely do both in order to keep the temps as low as possible.

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Last edited by wek120; 03-14-2016 at 04:38 AM.
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post #30 of 186 (permalink) Old 03-15-2016, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Got sick of fighting the immobilizer so decided to just buy a full rav4 engine wiring harness and fuse/relay block. Planning to run everything off the rav4 harness, may still keep the lotus harness for the key signal and fuel level sense so I still have some immobilizer….

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post #31 of 186 (permalink) Old 03-15-2016, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
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That's exactly what I was thinking too. Swain tech looks best, but I wonder if it actually drops the heat 30-50% as posted on their site....
Any idea what it costs to coat the snail shells and the header piping?

I will most likely do both in order to keep the temps as low as possible.
Couldn't say as I haven't used them (Swaintech). They have a good reputation though. I had someone local in Hawaii do my Subaru headers and I never had any issues with them. Much better than wrap, which was gone very quickly.

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post #32 of 186 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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post #33 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
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Finally got the second header fabbed and all welded up. Was much easier than the other one. Not very happy about the outlet heights being different because of the starter, but not really any alternatives.

The Monkeywrench header flange was not made to the right internal hole size... That or they sent me the wrong one, had to grind the holes bigger : /

60 hours or so later and I am almost done with deciphering the wiring and how to do the wiring. I will post up my ultimate findings once I get it all figured out, hopefully this will save some people some time if they do the swap
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post #34 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Well, some not so great news, figured out the engine wasn't situated right when I modeled the front header up, and it hit a little of the rear frame metal, had to trim a little off, NOT happy about that, going to weld on some support to make up for it even though it should be ok.

Got the turbo positioned and the connecting flex tubes tacked. I'll have about an inch or two on the back and below.
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post #35 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 07:53 AM
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I admire all the work you are doing, the quality looks good, but I predict you are going to have a lot of heat related issues due to where you routed the headers.
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post #36 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Ted! Yeah thats really my biggest concern at this point. All of the piping will be ceramic coated and well wrapped which will help, and just ordered firewall 1/2" thick aluminized insulation. Also going to try to get some inconel foil to make some shielding as well and put some fire sleeve over anything close to it. Definitely open to all suggestions though

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post #37 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Picked up some great firewall insulation off amazon, bout half and inch to an inch thick with really thick aluminum foil. Also got the headers wrapped. Should definitely help reduce the heat.

Link to heat shield:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051...ds=175304+heat

It's heat shield products 175304. Good thick dense fiberglass and nice tough thick aluminum that actually kind of holds shape. Sprayed the back with high temp spray adhesive and stuck it to the firewall. Highly recommended, supposedly you can even use it to wrap directly on exhaust pipes. Planning to get more for the rear shell and additional heat shielding.
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Last edited by wek120; 04-11-2016 at 09:46 AM.
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post #38 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 05:45 AM
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Fantastic work there mate!! keep the write up going!! as mentioned before will be doing this swap on my own car. Progress has been slow but we will get there!!
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post #39 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 06:23 AM
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Picked up some great firewall insulation off amazon, bout half and inch to an inch thick with really thick aluminum foil. Also got the headers wrapped. Should definitely help reduce the heat.

Can you post the link to that insulation? Thanks


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post #40 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks! Yeah it's definitely slow progress but I'm starting to get close to being able to get it running. Have to finish the wiring then figure out what lines run where then I'll be on the home stretch.

Link added. I got the half inch stuff but it's actually more like an inch. So for non severe heat problems the thinner stuff may work too.
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