Wek120's 2gr elige build thread - Page 3 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #41 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Found this absolute gold mine of info on the 2gr for everything from engine specs to coolant line routing:

http://toyota-club.net/files/faq/13-...engine_eng.htm
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post #42 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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AC COMPRESSOR

Per 2007 ECU RAV4 wiring diagram... Wiring plugs on Doc page 318 and 319
http://mr2.bordeauxgroup.com/2007%20...ms%20(EWD).pdf

Magnetic clutch operation:
http://www.alflash.com.ua/avtovideo/...nstruction.pdf

Lock Sensor which shows the two wires for the lock sensor in the clutch plug:
http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%9...m)/0420050.pdf

Solenoid
Toyota RAV4 Service Manual: Compressor solenoid circuit (2006/01- ) - Diagnostic trouble code chart (2006/01- ) - Air conditioning system (for manual air conditioning system) - Air conditioning

The solenoid function purpose: "In this circuit, the compressor receives a refrigerant compression demand signal from the air conditioning amplifier. Based on this signal, the compressor changes the degree of refrigerant compression" so basically it controls the actual flow of refrigerant either bypassing the pump or going through it. So if you wanted the AC full power youd wire 12v to keep it open whenever the AC clutch is going... on contrary youd wire it to cycle if you didn't need the AC pump to work as hard.

**The ideal thing to do would be to make a cycling circuit that would cycle the solenoid on and off according to the temp dial (so how far over to cold you put it) which would save gas if you only needed marginal ac to maintain temp...
IMPORTANT NOTE: From reading the compressor notes (page 10) it appears that the 2gr AC compressor does NOT have the internal overpressure valve (as described by Gouky on MR2forum), only the 2AZ. That being the case you will probably damage the 2gr compressor if left on at higher RPMs. I would either wire in some kind of RPM cutout relay on the solenoid line, or a cutout using the AC pressure sensor somehow (will figure out later).

A/C compressor Solenoid B23 :
brown 1- ground
grey 2 - 12v in

A/C pressure sensor A21: (not using)

A/C compressor magnetic clutch B47:
light green 1- Lock (clutch lock sensor, sends out volt signal to lock sensor?)
white /black 2- SG- (clutch lock sensor, receives switched signal from lock sensor?)
blue 3 - 12v in from mgt cntrl relay


SO That being the case I BELIEVE this would be the appropriate way to wire the 2gr AC compressor. (can anyone confirm?) :

Wire B47 magnetic clutch pin 1 to a thick switched 12v coming out of the/an AC relay
Magnetic clutch ground grounded through the mounting

Wire B23 compressor solenoid pin 1 to ground
Wire B23 compressor solenoid pin 2 to EITHER the same 12v from the AC relay, OR a homemade circuit that would cycle 12v based on temperature setting.

Formerly Wes (RIP : ( ) -- Now Brendon

Last edited by wek120; 04-14-2016 at 12:38 PM.
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post #43 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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MORE AC
Lotus wiring diagram is tripping me up on the AC switch... Looks almost like the LED is always on powered from the light level control with the switched lead providing a ground... Guess Ill have to poke at it with a meter

Notes for later:

Wiring if switch provides ground:

MGT CTL
[Verify blue wires connected to ECU-IG1 (IGN)]
Wire AE4 pin 22 Violet to Lotus AC switch Pin 1 380 SU (...may produce 12v on both sides of the led making led not come on????)

Wire AE4 pin 14 grey to MGT wire BA3 Pin 5 blue / yellow [will jump both solenoid and magnetic clutch on at the same time]

Formerly Wes (RIP : ( ) -- Now Brendon
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post #44 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 12:38 PM
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MORE AC
Lotus wiring diagram is tripping me up on the AC switch... Looks almost like the LED is always on powered from the light level control with the switched lead providing a ground... Guess Ill have to poke at it with a meter

Notes for later:

Wiring if switch provides ground:

MGT CTL
[Verify blue wires connected to ECU-IG1 (IGN)]
Wire AE4 pin 22 Violet to Lotus AC switch Pin 1 380 SU (...may produce 12v on both sides of the led making led not come on????)

Wire AE4 pin 14 grey to MGT wire BA3 Pin 5 blue / yellow [will jump both solenoid and magnetic clutch on at the same time]
It is actually pretty common to see switched grounds in cars.

"Lots Of Trouble; Usually Serious"
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post #45 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 03:10 PM
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I love the seats! How much were they?
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V6 cup seats. Not exactly thrilled with the grey, but Ill eventually replace it with black microsuede if I get time. Quite a bit more lower back support.


Redid the interior, started with the inserts. Carbon fiber vinyl strip, red stitch, black microsuede.


covered the panels in leather, accidentally messed up the stitching, turns out super glue seeps through threads as a white powder >.< gona have to fix it later.


Working on the center console. That one was tough. note to self, rubber cement isn't very strong…


Picked up a tesla double DIN set. Going to save that install for later. Also grabbed a toyota avalon gas pedal for the 2gr swap since its drive by wire
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post #46 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 03:23 PM
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e153 with the installed mounts and shifter. Again, had to modify the shifter from MWR since they made it 180deg off : / not a huge problem but irritating considering how much they charge you for it.
That sounds pretty much like the story with MWR. Rough all around. Crazy insane build, though!

Thinking of K-swapping? Here's an idea of the cost involved.

2006 LOTUS EXIGE (ASPEN WHITE) Honda K24A2 + MPx90 supercharger. 322whp/271lb-ft @13psi. Build thread here.
1994 AUTOZAM AZ-1 MAZDASPEED Japanese Super Kei!
2014 FIAT 500e Hydroelectric powered EV daily driver.
2007 SUZUKI SV650 Track bike.
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post #47 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 05:51 PM
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>>It is actually pretty common to see switched grounds in cars. <<

+1

For instance, all the ECU does is complete grounds. Injectors, coils, Cam solenoids, etc are hot (+) 100% of the time with the ECU making the ground.

-Phil
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post #48 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 09:53 PM
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IMPORTANT NOTE: From reading the compressor notes (page 10) it appears that the 2gr AC compressor does NOT have the internal overpressure valve (as described by Gouky on MR2forum), only the 2AZ. That being the case you will probably damage the 2gr compressor if left on at higher RPMs. I would either wire in some kind of RPM cutout relay on the solenoid line, or a cutout using the AC pressure sensor somehow (will figure out later).
This is an interesting finding. I'll run it by mr220v, who has done a number of harness integrations for 2gr swap, and see what he says.

Anyway I am following closely behind you, refreshing my engine (rav4) and transmission (e153) at this point, almost finished collecting all the parts needed. I appreciate your level of thoroughness and detail in this thread.
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post #49 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 09:48 AM
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Out of curiosity, what's the price of that Tesla 2-din finisher?
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post #50 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah that's kind of what I figured, but if you look at the wiring diagram it would appear the switch was drawn wrong (maybe it's just me) because the LED diode end goes to the non switched end. So unless the 12v supply from the light control was toggled somehow when the AC came on, then the circuit would show the LED should always be on .... Weird.


Seat wise I can't say the exact price since I got a sweet deal (going to have to do some promotional pics once the car is done for it) but I can say that normal pricing I personally feel is way overpriced (if I did it over again I would just have a good upholstery place do some Exige seats with the materials I got so it was actually black suede not dark grey... Also not thrilled about the wrinkles in the looseness of the top fabric, But that's a different story for a different thread. PM me if you want details

Yeah let me know frankster because that's what I gathered from reading the function and design doc (and from an engineering background standpoint). I'm really curious, if it really is the case I need to wire up some kind of rpm cutout or figure out the appropriate AC pressure sensor resistance or wiring and wire it to a cutoff relay on the solenoid

Tesla dash ran I think it was 300 off the forum, but I had to search for a while. Haven't started that yet, that's lower on the list.
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post #51 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 09:02 PM
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Also not thrilled about the wrinkles in the looseness of the top fabric, But that's a different story for a different thread. PM me if you want details
I didn't want to comment on that when I saw the pics but that is by far the worst part of the seat. I could live with the colors but the looseness of the top fabric looks half-ass.

Judging by the parts and the excellent work you're putting into this project I can see you're really trying to do it right. I see this as you trying to see your brother's dream car finished, where he'd be proud of it and you two could enjoy it together.

I lost my little brother decades ago (car crash). I regret that now that I have some cool toys I can't share them with him. He'd be so happy to ride in/drive them. Sometimes he shows up in a dream. It's always a pleasure to see him.

Sorry we clashed in a post many moons ago. I meant no ill will.

San

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post #52 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-16-2016, 04:14 AM Thread Starter
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I know right!! If they can make tight leather seating with complex curves and stitching on honda civics and toyota camrys with no wrinkles then there is no excuse for a company such as Lotus to slack. I'll probably take it to an upholstery place or tighten it up myself if I can.

Thanks San, means a lot to me. And yep I know the feeling. No worries, bygones. And yes that's exactly the idea, so I want to make sure I do everything right since I'll probably hang on to this forever.
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post #53 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so learned a couple things this weekend with the AC and lines;

Hooking up the AC:
So the big line will fit mounted upright, but the small AC line will not fit (the bend isn't sharp enough and it hits the fiberglass firewall) the way it is. I took a vice and a mallet and a large adjustable wrench and used it to bend the tube slightly up and twist it around. You may opt to cut and reweld the elbows on, at a tighter angle, but bending it was enough to make it work for me.
Definitely a tight fit getting your hand up behind the engine to screw in the line bolts. But they're finally in.

Radiator tubes:
The P side tube needs a 90 deg 1 1/8 elbow and a bit of tubing trimmed off. Only thing I could find locally was a copper pipe elbow and some good stainless pipe clamps, but it did the trick.
The D side tube would not work with the headers that I welded up (if you use the evora NA headers or weld up your own, it may work) so I trimmed some off then used another one of the elbows to get the right angle.
Heater lines:
Not sure if it matters which side goes to which for just the heater core, but you can see the routings. Routings are on an earlier link for the 2gr and on google for the lotus. Couple of them will need to be plugged like the coolant oil cooler return in the very bottom.

Moved some of the electrical wiring routings to get them clear of the headers. ECU will bolt to the firewall near the battery. The fuel line will need extending too.

Sold the turbo kit, so time to make an exhaust. Going to wing it and grab a magna flow muffler and some tips. Almost ready to start her up!
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post #54 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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Well... Major setback...

Got the harness done, all the fluids filled, everything wired up, and the pedal mounted, but it won't start... Turns out the ecu I got has an imobilizer

Also turns out that the 2006 and 2007 ra4 base and sport ecu's have immobilizers with ones that have keyless entry. I've gone through just about every ecu on ebay and have yet to find an ecu that is not immobilized nor keyless...

I thiiiink I found one, but I've gotten 2 no's and 4 yes's calling dealerships to find out if it's immobilized. Anyone have any toyota connections that could check this VIN and verify??:
JTMZK32VX75008793

I may just but it and risk it but if not I hate to say it but it may come to buying the 1k$ Nonimobilizer ecu from MWR

Last edited by wek120; 04-25-2016 at 09:21 AM.
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post #55 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 02:04 PM
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Turns out the ecu I got has an imobilizer
Ouch. This is a tough break. I wish you success in finding a non-immobilized ecu at a reasonable cost. If you're still looking, I have a buddy with a connection at a Toyota dealer who may be able to help. Let me know if there's anything I can do.
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post #56 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 03:06 PM
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I keep thinking...is it easier to get the factory ignition with a key? aftermarket keys are cheap, programming not at the dealer is ok, unless I am missing somehting, a couple hundred bucks all in?

or is there more to the story?
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post #57 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately I went ahead and bought one from MWR because I wanted it done. (no theres more to it- the key has to be programmed to it so youd have to have a dealership program it. Not really worth it in my opinion)

Kind of progress though: Found a wire that I forgot to hook up (the igsw go figure) so soldered it and then put the new ECU in and got it to spudder a couple times, but couldnt get it running. Also hooked up my other ecu and it did the same thing so I think the other ECU may have not been immobilized afterall .... go figure... after buying it I figure that out. Going to have to troubleshoot a bit later on why it only kicks a little .... mothers day weekend so in comes the honey do list.

Formerly Wes (RIP : ( ) -- Now Brendon
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post #58 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Got my exhaust pipe components. Originally ordered a 13269 magnaflow but was extremely disappointed in the quality, not even the brand stamp. Ended up Going with a 3" stainless with a 1142 vibrant performance resonator, going to a 3" inlet, dual 2.5" outlet 14267 magnaflow. Also got some burnt staggered dual tips, should look pretty neat.
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post #59 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 03:20 AM
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many locksmiths will do it now. had keys for my Nissan done some years back maybe 75 bucks all in key off ebay 10 bucks
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post #60 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 09:09 AM
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Ace Hardware stores can program them now.


Thanks, wek, for taking the time to post all this!

In theory, there is no difference between Theory and Practice. In practice, there is. - Y. Berra
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