Wek120's 2gr elige build thread - Page 4 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #61 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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My problem is since I'm doing all the wiring, if there was a problem, it would be difficult to be able to tell what was causing the problem, the key or a wiring issue.

However, it looks like there's a chance the other ecu wasn't immobilized after all. After getting that igsw wire I missed it coughed a couple times so I think it was just the wire. Going to find out soon. Meanwhile I think my fuel pump died . Just have to wait till I can get off work to go poke arohnd
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post #62 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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IT LIVES!!!!!!!

Found out that my brother had done the Walbro fuel pump swap with a relay setup. One of the grounds wasn't attached for the relay so the system was just coughing because of no fuel pressure. Wired 12v to the IGSW wire I missed and fixed the fuel pump relay ground and she fired right up!


Which also means that there are ECUs out there that arent immobilized, you just have to call all around and run a crapload of VINs till you find one, otherwise buy a new one.

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Last edited by wek120; 05-05-2016 at 04:30 PM.
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post #63 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 03:31 PM
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Awesome! That's always a great feeling when it actually lights off. Now the hard part - getting everything ironed out!


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post #64 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 04:30 PM
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Congrats my friend

there is something amazing about the first time a car springs to life.............
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post #65 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 05:24 PM
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Well done. Glad to hear you've got past that problem. You should be able to resell that ECU and recover some part of the cost. I've had a similar experience - finish a build and car won't start, go through every check to find, eventually, it's a ECU wiring fault - my fault. I doubt we're the only two who have ever done that. LOL.
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post #66 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys! Yeah I had a feeling it would probably happen- in order to get the entire wiring harness to fit I gutted about half of it and a full fuse box, had a feeling Id miss a wire or two. It happened because it was actually a wire that went to the interior fuse block so it slipped by me. As soon as I get the rest of them figured out Ill post the wirings that I did. There's actually only 3 wirings that you need to make to the actual lotus (the immobilizer to be exact) to get it running: fuel pump, IGN and start button. A couple more will have to be done for the dash though. Thats the next bridge to conquer. ...especially the fuel level sensor

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post #67 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
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https://youtu.be/oV4oKR-Oo8EIT LIVES!!!!!!!

Found out that my brother had done the Walbro fuel pump swap with a relay setup. One of the grounds wasn't attached for the relay so the system was just coughing because of no fuel pressure. Wired 12v to the IGSW wire I missed and fixed the fuel pump relay ground and she fired right up!


Which also means that there are ECUs out there that arent immobilized, you just have to call all around and run a crapload of VINs till you find one, otherwise buy a new one.
Sounds good! Should be a very impressive car. Any idea of when you think it will be done? I know they're never "done", but you know what I mean.

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post #68 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Im hoping that I can have it drivable in the next 2 weeks, back together and road worthy 2-4 weeks, then probably 2 months or so until its turbo'd, then another 2-4 until I have it fully built and turbo'd running at full capacity.

Reason its taking so long is Im really limited to weekends, and a good amount of them taken up with other activities. But yep definitely an ongoing project!

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post #69 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-06-2016, 01:03 PM
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I just read up on the motor you are installing into your car...HOLY COW, that is a motor. And to top it off, being the same car is the latest exige...SO EXCITING!!! Looking forward to what you have coming out.

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post #70 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-06-2016, 01:43 PM
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Man this thing looks amazing. Awesome job.
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post #71 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-06-2016, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah the 2gr is a fantastic engine, and its already used in the evora S and I believe the Exige S cup model, however they are NA and supercharged. I believe MWR may actually be working on turbo headers, in which case that would make for an easy swap if you just buy all the components they have, but I can't say if they will be equal length and bends (still probably easier than making them man was that a chore!). built and turbod Ive heard of them making 800hp easily. Only downside is there isn't a heck of a lot of tuning support. Ill probably end up picking up the greddy ultimate and the MWR harness because Im lazy and tired of working on harnesses.


Y thankya! I can't wait till I get the turbo complete and the whole thing done nice and clean

Next on the to do list:
Wire up dash and tach, take a crack at AC wiring and the fuel pump level (<- have a feeling this will be harder than I think)
Finish wiring harness, wrap n waterproof, heat shield
Rig up / Mount components (rad overflow, ecu, fuse box, etc)
Size Cut and Weld muffler/resonator (including mounts and 02 bungs)
Figure out VSV or install tank breather
Install axles and wheels (then test drive!!!)

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post #72 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-10-2016, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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AC control and Radiator Fan control

Ok, so after looking over the fan and AC diagram, it looks like there are two potential ways of doing things, a fan controller, or making use of the AC control module. The reviews on derales dual fan controller are terrible, so I ordered a fan controller as a backup, but am going to go with using the AC control module that exists already to be able to do everything from the back and make use of the ecu plug instead of running wires all the way to the front

Picked up some radiator tube adapters for the sensors (going to use a 190 for low and a 210 for high) and the 2 thermo switch sensors.








?Yeah I know definitely shotty reviews on the sensors, dont know of any other reliable ones though.

going to use the AC control module, using the switches to provide grounds to high and low speed fan wires.

For AC, Jumping ECU 53 to 56 should make the connection from the grounding AC switch to the AC relay, while also using the trinary switch to provide protection from under and over pressure, and thermostat (although Im not certain what the thermostat for it entails? I guess over temp of the refrigerant??).
A connection to the fans will be needed, going to need a few diodes as well to keep the fans from grounding the AC switch.

Only thing that has me stumped at this point is how to make the fans turn off over a given speed
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Last edited by wek120; 05-10-2016 at 05:50 PM.
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post #73 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-11-2016, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Updated diagrams

So by wiring 362 to 377 you will bridge the gap in the wiring left from removing the ECU.
Once you've done that you use the Engine harness connector pin 1 wire 21 RS as a switched 12v either directly to the compressor and solenoid or to the MGT relay

*** ALTERNATE EASIER AC WIRING OPTION:
-no jumper wire on ECU
- Wire AE4 22 violet to Lotus ECU 56 wire 377 KU
- Splice (do not cut!) BA1 pin 3 grey to BA3 pin 5 blue
AE4 22 violet is actually a grounding signal for the AC MGT relay, so it looks like another way of doing it (since the AC compressor is already wired if you have an engine harness) is to wire ECU 56 377 KU (the grounded wire switch on the lotus wiring side that goes to the button) directly to it.
Splicing BA3 5 to BA1 3 will supply the ac solenoid with 12v when the MGT relay gets 12v. (this is where you may consider adding in a second [in addition to the lotus trinary switch) failsafe to cut off the solenoid if over pressure).... Im going to only go with the trinary, up to you what you want do do

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Last edited by wek120; 06-08-2016 at 06:22 AM. Reason: Updating the diagrams. Appeared that the connection between the two caused the ignition to stay on, so take it with a grain of salt. Can vouch for the fans working waiting to verify the ac
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post #74 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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**** deleting fuel level post because I figured it out. See later post regarding fuel sender resistance,

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Last edited by wek120; 06-08-2016 at 04:48 AM.
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post #75 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 08:14 AM
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Fuel level

...So Im thoroughly stumped on this one.

The lotus ECU takes what appears to be a variable volt reading (using what looks like a variable resistor from the diagrams) and converts it to a CAN signal for the dash.

the only thing I can think of to make it display is to run the lotus ECU (which I could probably also use for Speed, Tach, oil pressure, and eng temp if I wired up the sensors right.

Anyone have any ideas? Really hoping to avoid a digital dash.... although the new AIM MXG looks awesome
With an arduino and a CAN bus module, you can directly read the sensor voltage with one of the arduino's analog ins, then write a simple program to run on the arduino that would output that value to the CAN bus. See http://www.seeedstudio.com/wiki/CAN-BUS_Shield

If you knew how to read all of the other instrument outputs from the Toyota ECU, you could wire those to the arduino as well and output everything you need to run the dash.

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post #76 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 08:33 AM
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With an arduino and a CAN bus module, you can directly read the sensor voltage with one of the arduino's analog ins, then write a simple program to run on the arduino that would output that value to the CAN bus. See CAN-BUS Shield - Wiki

If you knew how to read all of the other instrument outputs from the Toyota ECU, you could wire those to the arduino as well and output everything you need to run the dash.
i second this sentiment; it also sounds like more than one of us on the forum could help you with this if you needed it.
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post #77 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, that is definitely an option, but unfortunately writing code/programs from scratch and CAN BUS protocol language is a tad above my head, and as much as Id love to learn, I'm not sure if I really have that much time atm.

However, it looks like they already sell one
http://shopping.murcal.com/Catalog/J...1939-Interface


Only thing is, It appears that the lotus dash also needs the TACH in CAN, as well as all the other things like coolant temp speed etc. oil pressure. Being as many things as there are, I think it may just be easier to pick up a digital dash or figure out how to use the lotus ecu

I guess I need to address the inputs as a package to determine what is covered by the lotus CAN, the rav4 ecu CAN, and analog.

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Last edited by wek120; 05-12-2016 at 09:18 AM.
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post #78 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 09:09 AM
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So I guess the only good way of doing it is have something (like an arduino) convert the voltage signal to CAN... CAN language protocol/ writing code programs etc is a bit above my head, While Id love to learn Im not sure I really have that kind of time. so unless there was a packaged converter it sounds like it would just be much simpler to stick with either a digital dash or the lotus ECU



**** Wait, would something like this work:
FuelCAN: fuel level sender to J1939 CANbus interface | Murphy by Enovation Controls (EMEA region)
That would I'd imagine, for the fuel. For the rest, you'd either need something that handles conversion for the entire Toyota ECU instrumentation lines, or a digital dash, or arduino. Like Obeisance said, there are probably more than a few people here that could give you help if you went the arduino route.

Arduino's language is super simple if you've ever done any coding (when I first got an arduino, I knew JavaScript and learned the language in about an hour), plus there are a ton of GUI tools to automate a lot of the setup. If you know the wiring side of things, what volts and pulse widths mean coming over the wires, the data side is very simple comparatively. Plus an arduino is like $20 or so.

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post #79 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 09:15 AM
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Definitely another vote for the arduino route. Even after learning what little bit of code you'll need (pretty much this has been done before so you'll find examples of everything already), it'll be less effort than trying to run two ECUs. Plus, it'll open you up to new possibilities like running oil temp instead of water temp to the dash and stuff like that


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post #80 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I imagine it would be something I definitely could do (I have some C++ and other code background), but I'm actually leaning a bit away from it for one primary reason: Simplicity. I want to keep things as absolutely simple as possible and eliminate possible failure locations, having several component converters to convert and send signals would definitely add complexity to the system. The less components that would leave me stranded on the side of the road the better.
Im also leaning away from it (and more toward a digital dash) because I will be limited to the Lotus dash readouts, no point in leaving the possibility of running new components if Im limited to the lotus's dash.

HOWEVER, I seem to have found a pretty decent Digital dash for actually a quite reasonable price, that was recommended by a friend:
RXF Multifunction Speedometer - Koso North America

Can anyone else vouch for Koso?

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