Wek120's 2gr elige build thread - Page 5 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #81 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 10:26 AM
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I can understand the want for simplicity for sure, though I can't vouch for the dash.

If you did want to try the arduino and CAN shield module, with 20 minutes of googling for examples, assuming you had the correct data format, length, and address for the fuel level on the CAN bus, this would probably work:

PHP Code:

#include <mcp_can_dfs.h>
#include <mcp_can.h>
#include <SPI.h>

void setup()
{
  
Serial.begin(115200);
  
// init can bus, baudrate: 500k
  
if(CAN.begin(CAN_500KBPS) ==CAN_OKSerial.print("can init ok!!\r\n");
  else 
Serial.print("Can init fail!!\r\n");
}

void loop()
{
  
// Assume fuel voltage out is on pin 0
  
int sensorValue analogRead(A0);

  
char charBuf[4]; 
  
  
sprintf(charBuf"%d"sensorValue);

  
  
// Assuming that fuel is read by the dash from address 0x00 (NOT RIGHT!) 
  // in each frame and it is expecting a 4 byte int value for the 
  // fuel level value (again, probably not right, you'd need to 
  // figure out the frame addresses and data types, something like this:
  // http://www.motec.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1823 ), 
  // this should write the fuel level to the dash
  
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x0004, (unsigned char*) charBuf);  
  
delay(100);                       

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post #82 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Hotspoons, Ill def keep that for the backup plan
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post #83 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 10:54 AM
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Well damn it Brendon, all this talk made me buy a CAN bus shield and SD card shield for my old arduino that has been in storage for 5 years so I can hack together a data logger. I think I have a high-resolution digital accelerometer laying around somewhere as well.

-Rich

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post #84 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Haha so a little curiosity + some dusty relevant gadgets lying around = challenge accepted? Sounds good, definitely keep me posted. Im still digital dash shopping but definitely open to that route if I can incorporate all of the components.

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post #85 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wek120 View Post
Yeah I imagine it would be something I definitely could do (I have some C++ and other code background), but I'm actually leaning a bit away from it for one primary reason: Simplicity. I want to keep things as absolutely simple as possible and eliminate possible failure locations, having several component converters to convert and send signals would definitely add complexity to the system. The less components that would leave me stranded on the side of the road the better.
Im also leaning away from it (and more toward a digital dash) because I will be limited to the Lotus dash readouts, no point in leaving the possibility of running new components if Im limited to the lotus's dash.

HOWEVER, I seem to have found a pretty decent Digital dash for actually a quite reasonable price, that was recommended by a friend:
RXF Multifunction Speedometer - Koso North America

Can anyone else vouch for Koso?
A fair amount of people in the motorcycle world use Koso gauges they are pretty well vouched for. However....

JUST GO WITH THE AIM MXG! Baller status....

Thinking of K-swapping? Here's an idea of the cost involved.

2006 LOTUS EXIGE (ASPEN WHITE) Honda K24A2 + MPx90 supercharger. 322whp/271lb-ft @13psi. Build thread here.
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post #86 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butters View Post
A fair amount of people in the motorcycle world use Koso gauges they are pretty well vouched for. However....

JUST GO WITH THE AIM MXG! Baller status....
Yeah that's exactly what I heard. And it actually is technically under the motorcycle category, but heck our dashes are small enough for it.
However... it is just a weeee bit on the small side though. It looks pretty good in the video:

But might I just say WOOOWWW the MXG looks amazing. So much want:

Haha I know right, hang on let me just decide which arm and leg to chop off for it

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post #87 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 11:38 AM
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i have used an arduino and the seeed can shield to control the gauge cluster; it's quite straightforward. I've also used it to dump the t4 memory bytes for code analysis.

the point is, if you want to try the arduino route, we all would like to help you. probably even tell you what to do and write code for you.

Last edited by Obeisance; 05-13-2016 at 06:56 AM.
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post #88 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 05:57 AM
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AIM MXS FTW .
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post #89 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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Wow that looks fantastic.


Unfortunatley I decided to go with the Koso to keep costs from getting too crazy.


The guys at Monkey Wrench were nice enough to give me a partial refund on the ECU so I used that plus some extra cash to get the Greddy Ultimate and PnP wiring harness. Guess the Turbo'ing part may happen sooner than later.

Soooo on that note, Koso RXF and Greddy Ultimate and Plug n play harness are on the way!

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post #90 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Well surprise surprise, got the thermostats in, and the American Volt 99c (210) doesn't work ?.. Ordered 4 more hopefully one will work

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post #91 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 04:23 AM Thread Starter
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Another good weekend of progress. Also discovered a very important thing that I was unaware of for this swap: you WILL need to cut out a good section of the trunk of the rear shell (and possibly even the lid). I haven't cut it yet but have a look at the pics and you'll see, it needs to go an additional 4 inches forward.

Exhaust tacked into place, going to need to add a 3" flex joint at some point though.

I reorganized the wiring routings and was able to get a lot of the wires away and below the hot pipes. Also sleeved the gas line. It now starts right up.

Also installed the radiator tube sensor couplings.

I did notice that the transmission shifter does not shift easily or smoothly. Not sure what to do about that short of taking it all the way back out. I have a feeling it is because of how it was made from MWR...
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post #92 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-18-2016, 02:56 AM
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Did you try shifting directly with the lever on the trans? Try to isolate if it's a shifter shaft issue or a cable/linkage issue.

PS. If you haven't seen it already, check out what Gouky just came up with. He's cracked the 2GR ecu.
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post #93 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-18-2016, 04:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merryfrankster View Post
Did you try shifting directly with the lever on the trans? Try to isolate if it's a shifter shaft issue or a cable/linkage issue.

PS. If you haven't seen it already, check out what Gouky just came up with. He's cracked the 2GR ecu.
Yeah I did. I noticed it before I actually put the engine in the car but I was hoping it just needed a bit more oil, so I filled the trans oil and started it up (without the axles attached) but still the same. Its almost as if the spring on the shifter isn't strong enough... guess Ill have to pull it apart

Just found it.
http://www.mr2oc.com/188-v6-mr2-foru...n-removed.html

Go figure after I just bought the Greddy setup too, ahh well Ill need it for tuning.
I was under the impression Gouky actually worked for MWR.

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Last edited by wek120; 05-18-2016 at 04:09 AM.
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post #94 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-18-2016, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Koso dash in. Definitely a bit smaller than I hoped but looks like it will fit in quite nicely. Just need some carbon to make a nice faceplate. (Anyone have any good connections for carbon fiber cloth or supplies?)

Also a pic of the exhaust tac welded. Got the rear shell cut but took off a bit more than I probably should have on the bottom. Noticed that the pipes will need a bit of realignment but look like they'll work pretty well.
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post #95 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-19-2016, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Here's some info for the fuel level from another thread:

The ohm range for the stock fuel level sensor (according to the Celica repair manual) is:

3.0 ohms (full)
31.6 ohms (1/2 full)
110.0 ohms (empty)
(this is also what the stock gauge cluster is calibrated to)

Lotus fuel sender wires:
102 s 55
111 gb 79?
104 b 78 (ground?)

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post #96 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-19-2016, 11:22 AM
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Yeah I did. I noticed it before I actually put the engine in the car but I was hoping it just needed a bit more oil, so I filled the trans oil and started it up (without the axles attached) but still the same. Its almost as if the spring on the shifter isn't strong enough... guess Ill have to pull it apart

Just found it.
2GR-FE stock ECU has been hacked and the immobilizer can be removed! - MR2 Owners Club Message Board

Go figure after I just bought the Greddy setup too, ahh well Ill need it for tuning.
I was under the impression Gouky actually worked for MWR.
There's something I don't understand about the shifter. I bought an e153 that was in pieces and I've mostly put it back together. I compared my shifter to the BGB. Mine has only one select lever, located forward of the plate, and two pin holes in the shaft. The BGB illustration shows two select levers, one forward one aft of the bracket, and three pinholes (one for the extra lever). Referring to the illustration:

1991 MR2 BGB Online - Mechanical - Manual Transaxle

My shifter assembly does not have the part called out as "select inner lever" and its corresponding pinhole. It has only the "No. 2 shift inner lever." All other components appear same. This is a mystery that I have not yet had the opportunity to elucidate. I wonder if it has some bearing on what you are finding with your shifter. I'm wondering if there are two different versions of the shifter.

PS> After posting this I was able to locate a 1993 version of BGB. In this version, the extraneous parts of the shifter shaft are removed. So there appear to be two versions of shifter shaft.

Last edited by Merryfrankster; 05-19-2016 at 11:31 AM.
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post #97 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-19-2016, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I was going to say I don't have that either. But I got a supposedly 95 (brand new) so if that's the case it shouldn't use it anyways... Something's definitely not right about it though, Ill probably take it apart this weekend and see if I can figure it out.

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post #98 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-20-2016, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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Picked up an Avalon engine cover.
Pics of the cutout (will fill with fiberglass wall hopefully soon)
And an overall shot to show the clearance. Still trying to figure out where I can put an intercooler without blocking the view.
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post #99 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-22-2016, 04:56 AM Thread Starter
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Fixed the shifter. Not exactly sure what was wrong, just took it apart and put it back together. I guess something didn't seat well the first time.

Anywho, finished trimming the lid so it officially seats right now
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post #100 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-22-2016, 11:05 AM
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Fixed the shifter. Not exactly sure what was wrong, just took it apart and put it back together. I guess something didn't seat well the first time.

Anywho, finished trimming the lid so it officially seats right now
I noticed in playing around with my shifter that the rear plunger can jam up on the spring. Doesn't do it all the time. Haven't figured out why, or how to prevent it.
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