Wek120's 2gr elige build thread - Page 6 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #101 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-22-2016, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah that must have been it.

Weekend update:

Removed the old throttle cable (turned out to be a real nuisance), Added radiator temp sensor coupler for gauges, bled the clutch, and got the axles on and the wheels back on.

I wired up the Fans and AC, however I found out that the wire joining the AC switch to the fans causes the ignition to have 12v somehow, so guess Ill have to reinvestigate the correct wiring on how to do that (or perhaps I put the diode on backward).

Started it up to test the trans and the shifting. I noticed that the trans does not seem to shift as easily as I was hoping for. I was able to shift into everything except 2nd and reverse (which oddly enough seemed to spin it forward as if it was 6th. I noticed that once the reverse gate is down I can get first and second to work, but I still couldn't find reverse… Looks like the shifter will have to be tweaked a bit.

Never actually driven an mr2, anyone happen to know if the mr2 uses a shift gate for reverse?

Whats left:
Fully weld the exhaust
Wire the speedometer
Mount rear shell
Finish interior
Done! (until turbo build and engine build)
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Last edited by wek120; 05-23-2016 at 04:19 AM.
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post #102 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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So I decided to relocate the ecu and fuse box to the trunk in order to keep them a bit more out of the elements and away from the heat. Now have much more room.

Also just to get an early start on planning for the turbo, hooked it up to check potential intercooler locations.

There are 3 potential locations it looks like an intercooler (a/w) will fit. 1. In the back corner of the trunk. 2. Above the exhaust and compressor. 3. Behind the transmission.

The one I was looking at is the 12x12.5x4.5 one from froze boost, and I think it will actually fit behind the trans with a little tube and wire rerouting.

Also picked up some redflections carbon fiber to do a little vacuum bagging of the engine cover
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post #103 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 02:15 PM
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Cool! You may want to look at how the BOE side mount chargecooler radiator mounts above the passengers side wheel well. You can even get some good air flow out of the radiator if you cut an exhaust vent out of the clam like glagola did (this is him cutting the clam for over fenders, but you can see the exhaust vent for the chargecooler in the video): https://youtu.be/9QlH4R3YakA
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post #104 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Cool! You may want to look at how the BOE side mount chargecooler radiator mounts above the passengers side wheel well. You can even get some good air flow out of the radiator if you cut an exhaust vent out of the clam like glagola did (this is him cutting the clam for over fenders, but you can see the exhaust vent for the chargecooler in the video):
Hey that would be perfect! too bad its not the actual chargecooler though, just the radiator for cooling the w/a chargecooler. I wonder what the power rating or cooling capacity would be on it though. That and if they sell it seperately.

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Last edited by wek120; 05-28-2016 at 05:48 PM.
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post #105 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wek120 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotspoons View Post
Cool! You may want to look at how the BOE side mount chargecooler radiator mounts above the passengers side wheel well. You can even get some good air flow out of the radiator if you cut an exhaust vent out of the clam like glagola did (this is him cutting the clam for over fenders, but you can see the exhaust vent for the chargecooler in the video):
Hey that would be perfect! too bad its not the actual chargecooler though, just the radiator for cooling the w/a chargecooler. I wonder what the power rating or cooling capacity would be on it though. That and if they sell it seperately.
Gotcha, forgot that you need the actual intercooler. I'm sure Phil would sell the rad setup on its own, but you may want to talk to @glagola1; as he's running about the same power you are shooting for and has a dual radiator setup for his chargecooler, including a front mount rad. He is compound charged and I'm not 100% sure if he is only intercooled on the blower or if he has another a/w ic between the turbo and supercharger.
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post #106 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-29-2016, 04:44 AM
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Hey that would be perfect! too bad its not the actual chargecooler though, just the radiator for cooling the w/a chargecooler. I wonder what the power rating or cooling capacity would be on it though. That and if they sell it seperately.
I have that radiator to cool my SC and it is good for about 10PSI boost or 300HP. I believe it is from ProAlloy. Check out their site. I am adding a second radiator up front and running both in series with two pumps to increase the charge cooling capacity for 15psi or about 400HP.

Amazing job on your build, thanks for sharing.

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post #107 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-29-2016, 04:48 AM
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BTW, for a potential intercooler in the back that you might consider, the OEM exige A2A can be converted to A2W. There was a thread on that. It sits in the back. Just a thought.

05 Saffron Elise (#151)!!!!!
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PPE Testpipe, BOE Silent Touch
RacePak IQ3 dash with EFI module
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post #108 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-29-2016, 05:12 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info guys! Ill have to check out his setup. In order to get 550-600hp adequately cooled Ill almost definitely have to go with a dual radiator dual pump and sizeable intercooler. The frozenboost 12.5x12 600hp intercooler may not be enough, so I may likely have to do a trunk intercooler to get the IATs low enough.

I love the SSA Exige S intercooler upgrade, but I cant seem to find anything on the upgrade chargecooler.

Anyone have any thoughts/experience on using two smaller intercoolers in series?

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post #109 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by wek120 View Post
Thanks for the info guys! Ill have to check out his setup. In order to get 550-600hp adequately cooled Ill almost definitely have to go with a dual radiator dual pump and sizeable intercooler. The frozenboost 12.5x12 600hp intercooler may not be enough, so I may likely have to do a trunk intercooler to get the IATs low enough.

I love the SSA Exige S intercooler upgrade, but I cant seem to find anything on the upgrade chargecooler.

Anyone have any thoughts/experience on using two smaller intercoolers in series?
My only concern with running two would be the increase in boost required to achieve the same flow. In other words the resistance of the intake side would increase requiring a higher pressure to achieve the same charge. You might need to adjust your turbo size.

05 Saffron Elise (#151)!!!!!
Nitron NTR singles 550/700
BOE Rev 400, fuel surge tank, EFI 1.2
PPE Testpipe, BOE Silent Touch
RacePak IQ3 dash with EFI module
ACT HD/SS clutch, Fidanza FW, LETSA...
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post #110 of 186 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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So I finally got everything back together enough to take her out on a maiden voyage.

At some point, the smaller snap ring on the center driveshaft decided to no longer exist. Shaft managed to wiggle loose >.< However, for the short bit I got to drive it before then, it is AMAZINGLY smooth. The muffler setup is almost borderline too quiet, but I guess that may be a good thing especially once turbod.


Also realized a flaw in my positioning of the coolant temp sensors; I positioned the sensors on the engine exiting side of the coolant path, going to need to change that up and relocate them to the other side.

Now all that's left is wiring up the Koso dash, and getting a trunk latch.
Ordered a push button quick latch:


and a neat twist to open pop out button latch:


Will see which one works better.
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post #111 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 09:39 AM
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So I finally got everything back together enough to take her out on a maiden voyage.

At some point, the smaller snap ring on the center driveshaft decided to no longer exist. Shaft managed to wiggle loose >.< However, for the short bit I got to drive it before then, it is AMAZINGLY smooth. The muffler setup is almost borderline too quiet, but I guess that may be a good thing especially once turbod.


Also realized a flaw in my positioning of the coolant temp sensors; I positioned the sensors on the engine exiting side of the coolant path, going to need to change that up and relocate them to the other side.

Now all that's left is wiring up the Koso dash, and getting a trunk latch.
Ordered a push button quick latch:
http://www.amazon.com/Quik-Latch-Pro...ilpage_o01_s00
and a neat twist to open pop out button latch:
Southco Inc SC-2103 Knob-End Push-to-Close Latch Southco Push to Close Latches, Fixed Grip for Perpendicular Door Configurations Latches - Push-To-Close Latches - Knob stores flush: Draw Latches: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Will see which one works better.
I thought you had the E153? I dont believe it was a snap ring on the intermediate shaft.

05 Saffron Elise (#151)!!!!!
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BOE Rev 400, fuel surge tank, EFI 1.2
PPE Testpipe, BOE Silent Touch
RacePak IQ3 dash with EFI module
ACT HD/SS clutch, Fidanza FW, LETSA...
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post #112 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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I do. Yeah there's an internal snap ring that holds the bearing in the carrier (also a little bolt that keeps it from spinning too that I must have forgotten) and another smaller external snap ring that goes on the shaft itself to keep the shaft in place. It's the C clip next to the bolts in this picture I found online
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post #113 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Maiden voyage #2… SUCCESS!!! I had to literally grind about a mm or two off the end of the center driveshaft to get the clip to fit. Got it back together and took it around the block finally!


First impressions:
- its REALLY quiet, much quieter than I though it would be, when anything less than 20% or so throttle is applied. Its so quiet it's almost hard to hear. I almost wish it was a bit louder. However, once its opened up it sounds fantastic. Cant wait to burn in the clutch the rest of the way.
- The torque is fantastic!
- Its extremely smooth, almost as smooth if not smoother than my rx8,
- The engine seems to not idle very well. I think it might be because the 02 sensors aren't hooked up…


Next to do:
Charge AC
Wire up Dash
Mount battery and fuse box in trunk
Get lid cover latch on.
get roof window rails on
Tesla double DIN conversion with backup cam

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post #114 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 04:36 AM Thread Starter
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Was going to order a Flywheel cover plate to cover the big opening at the bottom of the bellhousing to keep anything from getting in there, but doesn't seem to want to let me order from the US so guess ill just have to make one. Heres the link:
2GR-FE Clutch/Flywheel Cover Plate ? Track Group

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post #115 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 05:04 AM
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You should make a daily you tube video of the progress...
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post #116 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Ehh videos take a good amount more time to make. This I can do while at work
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post #117 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-05-2016, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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Heres the S2 cluster pinouts for wiring the dash (koso for me)
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Originally Posted by dstevens View Post

Code:
Pin	2005			2008			Change
A1	29,P	Bat Power				
A2	206,B	GND		206,B	GND		-
A3	25,G	Fused Ign	29,P	Bat Power	A1
A4				110,NY	Alternator	A10
A5				25,G	Gauge Power	A3
A6				179,PK	Alarm Light	B7
A7				430,U	CANH		C1
A8	76,RY	Rear Fog	76,RY		
A9	86,UW	Main Beam	86,UW	Main Beam	-
A10	110,NY	Alternator	402,RO	Illum		C5
A11	51,GR	Indicator	51,GR	Indicator	-
A12	45,GW	Indicator	45,GW	Indicator	-
B1	113,BW	Brake		113,BW	Brake		-
B2			
B3	138,BY	ABS		138,BY	ABS		-
B4	167,BP	Seatbelt	167,BP	Seatbelt	-
B5			
B6	98,RO	Lights		98,R0	Lights		-
B7	179,PK	Alarm		430,U	CANL		C7
B8	118,GR	Fuse C3		118,GR	Backlight	-
B9	105,RW	Trip switch	105,RW	Trip switch	-
B10			
B11	342,PW	Doors		342,PW	Doors		-
B12	222,BP	SRS		222,BP	SRS		-
C1	428,R	CANH				
C5	402,RO	Illum
C7	430,U	CANL
Im assuming ill is 12v signal for backlight, main beam is high beam indicator 12v signal, and lights are regular lights 12v signal

Wiring tidbit for the Koso:

oil pressure light: BA1 Violet pin 9 or AE6 pin 5 blue

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Last edited by wek120; 06-08-2016 at 07:44 AM.
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post #118 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-05-2016, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Got the Koso dash wires in place and it roughly positioned. Still have to figure out most of it like the gas and wheel speed. Also noticed that the RPM is off so going to have to figure out how to program those, but looks like it'll work.

Engine is still running pretty rough. Need to get the O2 sensor drilled
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post #119 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-05-2016, 07:34 PM
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Thanks for the info guys! Ill have to check out his setup. In order to get 550-600hp adequately cooled Ill almost definitely have to go with a dual radiator dual pump and sizeable intercooler. The frozenboost 12.5x12 600hp intercooler may not be enough, so I may likely have to do a trunk intercooler to get the IATs low enough.

I love the SSA Exige S intercooler upgrade, but I cant seem to find anything on the upgrade chargecooler.

Anyone have any thoughts/experience on using two smaller intercoolers in series?
Depending on what you are doing with this car an ice water tank would probably make more sense. You are only making heat in boost, when not in boost you would cool the water with intake air. I have a 5 gal ice water tank in the 750whp car, a PT1000 intercooler, and a heat exchanger that is not crazy big, and a water pump that isn't anything special and that is fine with ice for minute stints and no ice for street driving where there is a lot of off boost. For the track I would detune the car anyway.

For street/drag/autox you can get by with a lot less cooling than a track car needs. Even then you can likely tune for it and just lose power when heat soaked.

You will make more power with ice packing either way as you can get IATs below ambient. Cold air is more dense.

A few warnings... 600HP
If you plan on running an Elise with that power on a road course at high speed.... I hope your know what your getting into or your life insurance is up to date! High power makes a car harder to control.

I am not sure anything you can fit under the stock bodywork tire wise would be ideal. Chances are you will be spinning the rears at WOT in quite possibly every gear with anything ~245 on asphalt, and have to baby the throttle to keep the tail end from going sideways.

Also those axles, or more likely the CVs I doubt are going to last if you do a hard launch and actually hook at anything north of 500HP (probably less actually).

I sort of think I should have went for a high power NA or low boost 2gr instead of high boost in my supercharged 2zz car.

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post #120 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
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I was considering that, but I want to make sure it has adequate cooling for DD as well (for when it wasn't full of ice). Is your setup an a/w intercooler in addition to an ice box? wouldn't that mean double resistance?

Thanks for the pointers but Im well aware of that. Eventually I will trim the wheel wells and go wider tires (once I get full boost) but that will probably be down the line a bit. I will turbo it first then build the engine and increase the boost. Initially the boost will be low and hp below 500hp (which is the axle rating as well) so I will have to increase those as well at that point down the road.

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