Wek120's 2gr elige build thread - Page 7 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #121 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 05:47 AM
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I was considering that, but I want to make sure it has adequate cooling for DD as well (for when it wasn't full of ice). Is your setup an a/w intercooler in addition to an ice box? wouldn't that mean double resistance?

Thanks for the pointers but Im well aware of that. Eventually I will trim the wheel wells and go wider tires (once I get full boost) but that will probably be down the line a bit. I will turbo it first then build the engine and increase the boost. Initially the boost will be low and hp below 500hp (which is the axle rating as well) so I will have to increase those as well at that point down the road.
My setup is fine for DD without ice.
My setup is 5gal tank > water pump > pt1000 intercooler > heat exchanger > back to the tank

2005 Lotus Elise turbo k20a2 757whp 536wtq 31psi [email protected]
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post #122 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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Ohhh duhh I get it, so the ice tank is just along the coolant line. Yeah that's actually a good idea, Ill probably do that and put one in the trunk.

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post #123 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
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Another gold mine of info on the 2gr:
http://www.rav4world.com/pdf/2GR-FE.pdf

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Last edited by wek120; 06-08-2016 at 07:41 AM.
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post #124 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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OIL COOLER for non Oil cooler engines

So for anyone who picked up an engine without an oil cooler like I did, there is a solution (contrary to what MWR has on their page.

Thanks to Baxter Performance, there IS an adapter to adapt from the cartridge style filter to either a spin on or a remote line.

Credit to FJ forum for the find.

Here is the link to their page:
Baxter Performance

in my case 2015 Toyota avalon 3.5 engine oil filter is 04152-YZZA1 which means it will be a TR-101-BK adapter

You could do a spin on with an add in cooler adapter, or a remote line with some kind of screw in filter in-line. Ill have to measure the space available, but it will most likely have to be the remote one with an in-line screw on filter.

For the in-line filter adapter, something like Earls spin on adapters like this will work to put the oil filter wherever you want:

http://www.earls.com.au/product-cate...pass-adapters/

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Last edited by wek120; 06-07-2016 at 09:30 AM.
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post #125 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Well after the third time of the battery going dead during test starting, I decided to check the voltage, no voltage increase once it came on. Turns out the alternator current regulator is preventing it from charging because its missing a signal voltage or something along those lines:
Also explains why the engine wasn't running smoothly, voltage was below 11...
Needed to wire BA1 pin 5 green to IGN to tell the alternator to charge. Tried it and it worked perfectly! Problem solved.

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Last edited by wek120; 06-09-2016 at 09:44 AM.
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post #126 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-08-2016, 05:55 AM
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With this style oil filter adapter be careful that the return passage has enough clearance for the engine block threaded sleeve. The returning oil travels down the inner passage of the adapter, which is offset from the center. The oil then has to do a 'S' bend to get into the engine. I've seen adapters where there is only a couple mm clearance internally once you screw this on, and thus a large oil flow drop.
When I used these I had to machine the engine block threads down and port the adapter internally.
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post #127 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-08-2016, 06:24 AM Thread Starter
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Good to know, do you know of or have any recommendations on any good ones that I wouldn't have to do that to?

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post #128 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-09-2016, 01:18 AM
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I've really enjoyed this thread, looks like an awesome project! If you don't mind my asking, how much (~$) are you into it? How about time invested?


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post #129 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-09-2016, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Post HOW MUCH DOES THE CONVERSION COST???

Had that asked a few times, so here it is:

Ok so to answer the question of how much Im personally in it (Including the brand new engine, trans, all of the turbo stuff so far, all of my visual car upgrades including the CF and exige roof, and my seats, Im in it at just under $30k. But keep in mind that’s everything and a lot of new stuff that is irrelevant to someone who would be doing this.

So ballpark how much would it cost to do the 2gr NA swap? Not as much as it appears:

Depending on if you go used and deal hunt, or go for new and best of the best makes a huge difference. Ive seen junkyard 2grs go for $1k all the way up new ones being $4k, if you can find a E153 out of a junkyard MR2, you can get them as low as 300 if youre lucky, or you could buy a new one for peace of mind for 2700. So much variation in all the components leaves a huge variation.
Also, if you sell your old engine and transmission for another 2k, you offset the cost…


Deal hunting, used parts, doing a lot of the stuff yourself, selling engine trans and all removed components: Under $8k

MOST LIKELY COST: Buying fairly new decent condition components from junkyards and ebay, an averagely decent 2gr engine that comes with the harness, a new trans, buying the MWR conversion components, fabbing an exhaust and selling the old eng and trans: ~$11k

Doing exactly what I did but without turbo and only the engine swap: just under $15K (selling the old engine and trans for 2k bringing it to $13k)

Turbo and all supporting components, Almost all new components, almost new engine, new trans, all the components for the conversion from MWR, AIM digital dash or comparable, and built engine: Probably 25k+ (yet to be determined )

Heres a general breakdown:
~$2500 :2gr Engine
~$2700 (new) E153 Transmission (500-1500 used if you can find it)
~$500 engine harness and wiring (assuming engine doesn’t have it)
~$1250 Full exhaust (DIY welded by you) (3k from MWR, 2.3k from 2Bular)
~$700 Digital dash (koso) (~800-2.5k for other digital dashes) (not needed if you can figure out how to run the OEM dash using sensor to CAN converters)
~$800 for clutch and flywheel (~300-500 used OEM) (assuming engine doesn’t include it)
~$1300 Axles (from MWR) (or you figure out the combos of hubs and CVs from others would work, or have custom ones made.
~$600 shift cable adapter (from MWR) (unless you fab one up)
~$40 for DBW gas pedal
~$500 in engine components (alternator, starter, ac comp etc) (assuming your engine doesn’t have them)
a SH*TTON of time (less if you buy an exhaust and have the wiring done for you though.

Ignoring my time working in the cost though. The two most time consuming things was designing and fabbing the exhaust (wouldn't have been as bad if it was UEL headers) and researching and going through all the wiring of all the components.
If you want an exact price list I can show you what Ive paid (I keep an excel sheet) But basically swap alone Im in it so far (not including the turbo) at $14800
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Last edited by wek120; 06-09-2016 at 09:43 AM.
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post #130 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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-Got the fuel level wired up (wire the silver wire to ground then the green/blue wire to the fuel level sensor. Works great so far, but will probably need to calibrate the resistance.

-Something isn't working with the AC wiring, wired it up and it appears that the trinary switch or something along that line isn't allowing the signal through, so I tried wiring it up directly, but appears I may have miswired something because it still isn't coming on, going to double check my wiring tomorrow.

-Oil pressure switch wired up. Works perfectly.

- Relocated the coolant temp sensor to the coolant manifold outlet by tapping a hole just above the oem sensor. Had to take the whole thing off but the new position measures the temp much better (not just the radiator flow)

-Bled the coolant system (which turns out to be a real PITA) But looks like one of my sensors is leaking so Ill have to pop it out and fix it and do it all over again >.<


-Started it up again and took it around the block… Something isn't right because its now running quite rough almost died several times… Quite stumped at this point, wondering if its something I wired up… : /
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post #131 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Good productive weekend, but engine is still idling a bit rough.

Added an nrg grounding kit since quite a few of the frame members didn't seem to be getting grounds.

Set up an intake and knn filter. Wrapped the intake to insulate it from the headers and added some of the shielding to the merge collector.

Got everything cleaned up and ready for the rear shell. Lastly got an oil catch can mounted
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Last edited by wek120; 06-12-2016 at 06:23 PM.
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post #132 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 05:34 AM Thread Starter
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Finally almost street worthy again. Got the rear shell back on, side scoops back on (forgot about the tire wells though) skid plate on, and rear diffusor mounted.
The diffusor didn't actually fit with the new exhaust setup, but oddly enough it fit fine upside down and actually looks pretty decent.

All that's left now is hard top mounting hardware, rear hatch latch and shock mount, and mounting the speedo.
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post #133 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 07:00 AM
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The diffuser upside down looks great! Matches the car well. Nice job on the exhaust to, the blue finish looks great. Are they titanium ?

Tell us about your wing and mounts ? They look great to


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post #134 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 275 Turbo View Post
The diffuser upside down looks great! Matches the car well. Nice job on the exhaust to, the blue finish looks great. Are they titanium ?

Tell us about your wing and mounts ? They look great to


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Thanks! Yeah ironically enough it not fitting actually worked out in my favor. I think theyre just regular stainless. Here's the link, although it looks like they ran out or stopped selling them:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The wing my brother actually hand made from carbon fiber. Its supposedly based off of the sector 111 gut sport wing (he apparently tweaked the profiles and changed the slope, but it looks pretty similar. He also machined the mounts himself too but I believe you can buy similar ones somewhere.
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post #135 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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By popular demand, Here is the final list of wiring connections I made.
***HOWEVER, these are merely what I did that worked for me, I take no responsibility for anything that you choose to do to your wiring harnesses, so proceed at your own risk.***

There are many ways you can do this, but this is what I did and what worked for me.

Again, this is just a reference, make absolute sure that you go through the 2gr wiring diagrams and understand how everything works and what wiring is for what if you choose to copy me.

-I used a RAV4 complete engine harness and fuse boxes
-not using the lotus ECU
-not using the RAV4 AC ecu
-not using the RAV4 Skid control
-not using the Lotus multifunction relay, immobilizer, or inertia switch
-using the lotus wirings for all the accessories (lights fans etc)
-Using the RAV4 fuse box (I migrated the important components to the L one)
-Changed the VSC fail relay to a start relay on the RAV4 harness
-Changed the BRK relay to the C/Open relay on the RAV4 harness
- Using the RAV4 Fuel pump relay (and fuel pump resistor[may not be necessary but oh well])
-Using the RAV4 MG relay for the AC clutch and solenoid
- Using the RAV4 IG2 relay as the IGN relay (powers IGN IG1 IG2)
- Adding wires running through the side panel to the back for the gauge items, AC switch, manual fan override, and gas pedal wires


I made the connections then I weeded out the unnecessary unused wires to loose some weight.

Honestly knowing what I know now, Id probably just either leave it in tact, or wire the Non-main harness from scratch. Most of the items just need either IGN, ground, or a signal.

Maybe later Ill make up a complete wiring diagram and make one from scratch...
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post #136 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Got it out for an official street worthy maiden voyage. I noticed 3rd is a bit hard to find quickly, and also that the coolant temps are running at about 198 which is definitely a bit hotter than Id like to see… or is that normal?

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post #137 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 06:49 PM
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That's not hot. Pretty normal. What were the conditions?
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post #138 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Average/light driving, bout 80deg outside, high humidity, AC off. Just seemed a tad hot, what temp should I be worried? 212 or closer to 220?

AC comp is acting weird, doesn't want to kick on predictably. Think it might need a lock activation…. Anywho, saving the AC link with all the info for later:
http://www.alflash.com.ua/avtovideo/...nstruction.pdf

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post #139 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-17-2016, 09:36 AM
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My V6 DD holds around 200F in ambient temps in the 90s. A 50/50 antifreeze mix boils over 220F, so you're fine for now. A lower t-stat is a wise move if you plan on tracking.

Good to see you've made it to this stage. Your brother would be proud!
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post #140 of 186 (permalink) Old 06-17-2016, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Good to know as a reference. Driving to work today it held right at 200. Once I put the AC on it went up to about 205 before I turned it off. I think Ill go ahead and upgrade the radiator to be safe, just didn't want to sit at 215-220 right at the limit if it really shouldn't be. Thanks TSRAGR!

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