Wek120's 2gr elige build thread - Page 9 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #161 of 186 (permalink) Old 07-11-2016, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Yep Im pretty sure Ive got it plumbed right. Im thinking that its either flattened fins or the sharp 90 elbow I have causing too much restriction.

Eliseparts upgraded radiator's in. SPAL fans coming in tomorrow. Still deciding if I should get the AC condenser radiator too. Going to take the clam off and swap the radiator n fans and fix my blown clutch master at the same time.

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post #162 of 186 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Made some good weekend progress and think I may have found out what was reducing my cooling.
-So to hold the hood vents in place, I used a 2" strip of velcro across the whole bottom lip… It looks like it may have blocked off a good amount of airflow.
-I also realized that my coolant fan switch was only tuning on one fan, so I was only getting half the power of the radiator fans.

-I ordered the Eliseparts upgraded radiator and 2 SPAL 11" puller fans 30100411 (you can either get them from eliseparts for 97$ or from amazon for about 65$)
heres the amazon link I got them from: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- turns out 2 11" fans will not fit without modification to the air box (found this out after the fact but decided to make them work). Took a dremmel and cut out the interfering parts of the fiberglass and modified the brackets on the bottom to hold it in place. By cutting out the lower half it should allow more air flow to blow a bit to the sides as well… we'll just see. Getting the front shell off wasn't near as difficult as I thought it would be luckily.

-I also trimmed some of the front lip to leave just enough to hold the vents but allow much more of the lip-restriced air to pass through.

-Ill be putting in water wetter and distilled water instead of glycol mix to try and add to the lower coolant temps. I also realized theres a bleeder valve in the top tube of the radiator, so Im going to try and make use of that next time I bleed the system.

Still need to swap the clutch master before I can see if it worked though.
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post #163 of 186 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 05:45 AM Thread Starter
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Got the radiator filled and bled, Filled the AC back up, and changed the trans oil to penzoil syncromesh (heard lots of good things on mr2 forums for syncromesh in the e153 trans so decided to give it a try).


I still have the front shell off, and I was only able to idle it on blocks, but it appears the new radiator and water wetter worked! temps sitting at idle on blocks with the AC blasting and the radiator fan on full blast the engine temp was sitting at a consistent 189F the entire time. Need to get the front shell back on to test it on the road, but so far so good!

BLEEDING THE RADIATOR SYSTEM
For anyone doing the swap heres the best way ive found for Bleeding the Radiator system with the 2GR:
1. get a cheapy hand held fluid transfer pump; you can use it for vacuum and pumping the fluid in.
2. use the pump to first pump coolant into the bleed nipple on the lotus radiator pipe just outside the fan box (passenger side) and leave the bleeder on the top of the 2gr open (top of engine near oil cap)
3. swap bleeders; pump into the engine bleeder and leave the radiator nipple open.
4. close the engine bleeder and open the overflow tank cap. Pump fluid in the radiator bleeder
5. keep the radiator bleeder closed and the overflow tank cap off, top off the overflow tank, then use the vacuum side of the pump on the top engine bleeder and vacuum away (I found about 4 top offs of the overflow tank usually got most of the air out)
6. Start the car up and run it for a minute, then repeat step 5. (I left the vacuum tube connected and actually vacuumed the first time with the engine running. Repeat this about 3 times and it should get the remaining air out of the system.
7. Done! run it until you see the engine temp go to 188 or so (with a 185 thermostat) and you should start to feel the radiator tube start to get hot. Check it after taking it around the block to make sure the level didn't dip. If you see a heat spike over 220 or so its a pretty good indicator that you have air in the system so youll have to do step 5 a couple more times.

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post #164 of 186 (permalink) Old 07-24-2016, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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IT WORKED!!!!!

So after changing to penzoil syncromax, and adjusting the clutch pedal, the shifting is 100% better. Its now a completely manageable car to drive. I think there must have been a lot of clutch drag or something.

Engine temps are now at a consistent 189 with the new radiator and water wetter mix, and trimmed radiator fan box.


Its now quite enjoyable of a car to drive! Hopefully I will have the clutch fully burned in soon. For anyone on the fence about doing the swap, DO IT! Its amazing how smooth and torquey it is now. Now for the final remaining fun stuff (double DIN, interior lighting, random looks upgrades, gauges, etc).

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post #165 of 186 (permalink) Old 07-25-2016, 05:41 PM
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Great stuff keep your posts going. My 2gr is going in for a freshen up/build in the upcoming months. Progress is very slow my end. I have received approval here to run a stock v6 supercharger so we are very excited we are able to do that. We have a long road ahead, your posts are helpful and give me hope we will have mine done over the next year. Cheers Ryan
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post #166 of 186 (permalink) Old 08-16-2016, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Had a little bit of a disaster this weekend; driving home one night on the twisties everything suddenly died, headlights included. Made it to the side of the road and opened the trunk to discover my battery mount had come loose and the entire battery had been banging around the trunk, hit the contacts on the frame, melted some wire and got melted a melted on the headers a bit. Luckily the damage wasn't too bad but I decided to take the shell off and fix it along with some other things Id been meaning to get done:

Shifter:
So the shifter side to side travel with the stock lotus shift setup (the way MWR has you do it with their bracket) was almost excessive in my opinion, I am either on the passengers kneecap or moving mine to the side, to the point where every time I went to shift Id be hitting the middles. So I decided to move the shifter stud (the point where the cable pivots on the transmission mount) in a hole length to shorten the lever arm thus reducing the distance. (will post pics and results later).

Moroso oil pan:
This actually turned out to be tougher than I thought to install all because of 3 nuts. To install it, you have to first remove the oem pan and scrape off the gasket, then install studs (because the aluminum is thicker than the bolt lengths) Install the gasket and I added a think layer of gasket maker rtv to the top and the gasket cut to prevent leaking.
When installing the nuts, it turns out that three of the studs are actually inside of the oil pan that you have to unscrew the plugs and put on the studs. This was REALLY hard to do; two of the studs are not centered on the hole so you cannot use a driver to get it started. I had to use my pinky to hold the nuts up against the stud inside the pan and spin it until I could fit a tiny 1/4" 10mm socket up in it. If youre putting one on make sure to have a good strong magnet for if you drop the nuts. But I did manage to get them on and it looks good so far. It also has a tap for an oil temp sensor so I added that while I was at it.

Oil pressure sensor:
While you have the pan off you have reasonably easy access to the oil pressure sensor. I ran to the hardware store and got a brass T and T'd the oem oil pressure sensor to add another one.
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Last edited by wek120; 08-16-2016 at 12:56 PM.
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post #167 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-10-2016, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quick pic with the ducted roof on
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post #168 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Redid the AC controls in black and a carbon fiber shift knob
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post #169 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
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Redid the AC controls in black and a carbon fiber shift knob
Where did u get the black AC controls?
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post #170 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-14-2016, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Got em off the forum but I think theres someone either on ebay or somewhere online that also sells them.


.... Rough idle still a problem : / low idle to the point something in the driver door is vibrating... really annoying >.<

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post #171 of 186 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:
Decided to make an iPad slider dash out of the tesla double din face.
Ipad slider kit: http://www.soundmanca.com/products/sideslider

You can do it with the stock radio bezzle too , just wont have vents. Took me about 3 days after work with body filler, glazing puddy, epoxy and lots of sanding. Came out pretty well.

I found an AWESOME site Schematics.com for anyone looking for an easy way to design circuits on the computer (not just paper and pencil). all you have to do is create an account.

Here's the link to the wiring harness for wiring an Ipad dash:
http://schematics.com/project/lotus-...-wiring-43194/
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post #172 of 186 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wek120 View Post
UPDATE:
Decided to make an iPad slider dash out of the tesla double din face.
Ipad slider kit: Universal iPad mini SIDE SLIDER® Kit ? Soundman Enterprises, Inc.

You can do it with the stock radio bezzle too , just wont have vents. Took me about 3 days after work with body filler, glazing puddy, epoxy and lots of sanding. Came out pretty well.

I found an AWESOME site Schematics.com for anyone looking for an easy way to design circuits on the computer (not just paper and pencil). all you have to do is create an account.

Here's the link to the wiring harness for wiring an Ipad dash:
Schematics.com | Ipad Dash Audio Wiring Schematic
Awesome! I am about to give up on the idea of keeping both a tablet and a radio. Just too cluttered, and the radio isn't good for much anyways.
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post #173 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-13-2016, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Almost done with the ipad dash. Significantly lighter than the stock headunit.

Having some issues with feedback. Ordered a PAC ground loop isolator, hopefully it works better than the crappy radio shack one.

What I used:
Pioneer GM-D9605 5 channel amp ($193)
Apple Lightning to 30-Pin Adapter (MD824AM/A) ($40)
PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller ($10)
iPad 30 Pin Connect to audio/usb adapter ($13)
Stinger SGW9920 9 Conductor Speedwire 20ft Roll ($16)
Amp wiring kit ($12$)

for redo cost of just under 300 once I factored in solder, heat shrink and connectors.

Not bad really... unfortunately I had a mishap with some adhesive remover on a rag and messed up my airbag cover : (
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Last edited by wek120; 12-13-2016 at 11:58 AM.
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post #174 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-13-2016, 02:03 PM
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I am sure I am not the only one exclaims out loud in excitement when I see a new post on this thread

Fun stuff
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post #175 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-13-2016, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Exigegus! Coming up soon is the new wire harness; Im just wrapping it up now, just got it running again yesterday. The Bussmann fusebox was definitely a success . Ill be posting a full wiring diagram on how to wire the 2gr engine harness to the lotus body, I just want to confirm that everything is right before I post it.


Just tested the iPad charging, no go Lots and lots of Audio noise… If anyone out there is an audio guru and has any ideas feel free to shout!

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post #176 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-14-2016, 05:10 AM
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So there is noise if you plug the power in but not if you have it unplugged?
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post #177 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-14-2016, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Done!!

Couple things I noticed;
- If the USB charger says it isnt charging, it actually is, just really slow
- There's still audio feedback noise... not sure why or what else to do to get rid of it
- Still need to improve the vent adapters, not a lot of airflow, probably going to upgrade the blower at some point.
- You can run the amp as 4 channel, and use a simple marine bluetooth receiver, or solely run the bluetooth instead of running rca cables, downside is no volume control knob.
Fusion MS-BT100 Bluetooth Dongle:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post #178 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 05:50 AM
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It's not the blower

Have you removed the recirc plates?

There are a bunch of threads, including mine
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f313...rework-348738/,

on the AC

Mostly some detailing

I believe the diverter assembly is the main culprit, seems to lose half the air flow

the fan is actually pretty huge
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post #179 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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WIRING FUSEBLOCK UBERPOST!

*** Ignore any other wiring up to this point, I have confirmed all items are functioning with this setup. Alright guys, going to be a lot of info here so bear with me, might take a day or two to get it all posted.

So after months of studying wire diagrams and messing with wiring harnesses, Ive finally got a working, clean, made from scratch, fuse/relay box. Ive tested it and IT WORKS!! So here is all the info on how to make one, including a full wiring diagram.
This can also be used for non-lotus 2gr swaps too! the only difference/truly important vehicle inputs are Ignition and Start (see immobilizer plug), everything else is either dash outputs, 2grECU connections, or BA plug connections to a stock 2gr engine harness

Notes:
-Solder ALL connections; I first only used a crimper tool and had 3 wires pull out just enough to cause problems... lost 3 full weeks to diagnosing pulled out wires, went back and resoldered everything.
-Make absolutely sure fuseblock terminals are fully snapped into place; had a relay terminal push down just enough to not contact, another 2 days of diagnostics wasted on that.
-get a pair of automatic wire stippers, theyre cheap and totally worth it
-If it doesn’t work at first, don’t panic, its fairly easy to troubleshoot based off of symptoms.
-The diagrams are on Schematics.com, super easy and free, just have to make a username and password. Perfect for if you want to make your own diagrams.
-You can modify a cover to use as a base for the fuse block

Functional notes:
-based off of a stock 2006 2gr harness
-BA plugs are the fusebox plugs that normally connect the engine harness to the fusebox.
-in order to make the OBD2 readers work, you need to add a 120ohm resistor connecting CANH and CANL.
-ground lotus ECU pin 78 for reading fuel level resistance off of pin 76
-connect the thick BA plug wire that screws to the fusebox stud to the + battery stud (its the alternator output)
-Jump the AC solenoid wire to the MG+ wire to engage both when the AC kicks on (unless you want to wire up a solenoid safety pressure setup)



Recources:
2007 RAV4 wiring diagram (be sure to reference the 2gr pages NOT the 2AZ)
http://mr2.bordeauxgroup.com/2007%20...ms%20(EWD).pdf

2005 Exige Diagram:
: ( used to be on BOEs site but not any more, might have to ask around now

Additional 2gr pinnout:
http://mr2.bordeauxgroup.com/2GR-FE.png

Full Wiring Schematic:
Schematics.com | 2GR wiring harness

Here’s my personal finished wiring harness (not the cleanest but this is my exact harness as current, colors posted as well. Use only for additional reference, some of the wires and plugs aren’t ideal on mine due to last minute tweaking and plug availability)
Schematics.com | Bren5279's Exige's 2gr harness

(see pics for schematic screenshots)



Items (all available from Waytek, some amazon):

Main fuse block:
Cooper Bussmann 15404-2-0-1-0A RFRM Fuse Panel, No Bus Bars, Cover Included
https://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Bussma.../dp/B015YSZ5BQ

Fuseblock connectors and terminals:

Delphi 12077411 Metri-Pack Female Loose Terminal w/ Tang 18-16 GA, 280 Series -50/bag
Delphi 12077413 Metri-Pack Female Terminal w/ Tang 12-10 GA, 280 Series - 50/bag
Delphi 15324981 Metri-Pack 280 Series Cable Seal, Blue (Previously 12015193) - 100/bag
Delphi 15324982 Metri-Pack 280 Series Cable Seal, Green (Previously 12015323) 100/bag
Delphi 12010300 1-Way Cable Cavity Plug Seal, Round, Green - 100/bag

Pin tool (get this! Youll be really glad you did trust me):
Delphi 12094429 Metri-Pack Terminal Removal Tool, Use with 150, 280, GT150 & GT280 Series

Connectors:
Uxcell makes a bunch of different waterproof connectors, I used everything from 2,4,6,8,10 and 12 pin adapters, even some of the aviation and high current ones. Here’s a few:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sleeving:
Whole bunch of different sizes, really helps make things clean, I got everything from ¼ to 1.5 “:
Heres one example
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring:
Obviously you can use whatever you want, but I found a 9 conductor 18ga from Stinger worked pretty well, that and using white wire with sharpie striping for color. Again all available on amazon. I used the 18ga for anything signal, 14ga or 12ga for anything carrying any medium current, and anything from 8ga on fuel pump and start solenoid, and up to 4ga for the mains.
Stinger SGW9920 9 Conductor Speedwire 20ft Roll Blue
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Breaker:
I used a small 200A breaker on the fuse block itself, works great and also functions as a switch
200 AMP 12V DC CIRCUIT BREAKER REPLACE FUSE 200A 12VDC Scosche
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Relays:
Iso 280 relays for the fuse block:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ill try to add a troubleshooting guide if I can get some time, and Ill try to keep it updated as I go.
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Last edited by wek120; 12-30-2016 at 08:57 PM.
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post #180 of 186 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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So I know its been a while, but Ive FINALLY gotten the waiver and now have plates!!

To anyone whos considering doing this swap, the waiver process actually isn't all that terrible (at least for nc heres the process):
1. Get it inspected (obd must be able to at least read from the 2gr, so wire it up to the rav4 ECU) (itll fail obviously)
2. Spend 200$ in "repairs" (I printed my amazon receipts from the wiring items)
3. get it inspected again (fail again)
4. go to the DMV (the one with state troopers that does waivers, call and find out, its different from the regular dmv or plate agency) and get the waiver
5. go back and get it inspected with the waiver (they should pass it, assuming all safety stuff like lights and blinkers work
6. off to the plate agency for registration and tags!

Downside is you have to spend the 200$ every year and do that process every time... but worth it imo
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