*** Ignore any other wiring up to this point, I have confirmed all items are functioning with this setup. Alright guys, going to be a lot of info here so bear with me, might take a day or two to get it all posted.
So after months of studying wire diagrams and messing with wiring harnesses, Ive finally got a working, clean, made from scratch, fuse/relay box. Ive tested it and IT WORKS!! So here is all the info on how to make one, including a full wiring diagram.
This can also be used for non-lotus 2gr swaps too! the only difference/truly important vehicle inputs are Ignition and Start (see immobilizer plug), everything else is either dash outputs, 2grECU connections, or BA plug connections to a stock 2gr engine harness
-Solder ALL connections; I first only used a crimper tool and had 3 wires pull out just enough to cause problems... lost 3 full weeks to diagnosing pulled out wires, went back and resoldered everything.
-Make absolutely sure fuseblock terminals are fully snapped into place; had a relay terminal push down just enough to not contact, another 2 days of diagnostics wasted on that.
-get a pair of automatic wire stippers, theyre cheap and totally worth it
-If it doesn’t work at first, don’t panic, its fairly easy to troubleshoot based off of symptoms.
-The diagrams are on Schematics.com, super easy and free, just have to make a username and password. Perfect for if you want to make your own diagrams.
-You can modify a cover to use as a base for the fuse block
-based off of a stock 2006 2gr harness
-BA plugs are the fusebox plugs that normally connect the engine harness to the fusebox.
-in order to make the OBD2 readers work, you need to add a 120ohm resistor connecting CANH and CANL.
-ground lotus ECU pin 78 for reading fuel level resistance off of pin 76
-connect the thick BA plug wire that screws to the fusebox stud to the + battery stud (its the alternator output)
-Jump the AC solenoid wire to the MG+ wire to engage both when the AC kicks on (unless you want to wire up a solenoid safety pressure setup)
2007 RAV4 wiring diagram (be sure to reference the 2gr pages NOT the 2AZ)
2005 Exige Diagram:
: ( used to be on BOEs site but not any more, might have to ask around now
Additional 2gr pinnout:
Full Wiring Schematic:
Schematics.com | 2GR wiring harness
Here’s my personal finished wiring harness (not the cleanest but this is my exact harness as current, colors posted as well. Use only for additional reference, some of the wires and plugs aren’t ideal on mine due to last minute tweaking and plug availability)
Schematics.com | Bren5279's Exige's 2gr harness
(see pics for schematic screenshots)
(all available from Waytek, some amazon):
Main fuse block:
Cooper Bussmann 15404-2-0-1-0A RFRM Fuse Panel, No Bus Bars, Cover Included
Fuseblock connectors and terminals:
Delphi 12077411 Metri-Pack Female Loose Terminal w/ Tang 18-16 GA, 280 Series -50/bag
Delphi 12077413 Metri-Pack Female Terminal w/ Tang 12-10 GA, 280 Series - 50/bag
Delphi 15324981 Metri-Pack 280 Series Cable Seal, Blue (Previously 12015193) - 100/bag
Delphi 15324982 Metri-Pack 280 Series Cable Seal, Green (Previously 12015323) 100/bag
Delphi 12010300 1-Way Cable Cavity Plug Seal, Round, Green - 100/bag
(get this! Youll be really glad you did trust me):
Delphi 12094429 Metri-Pack Terminal Removal Tool, Use with 150, 280, GT150 & GT280 Series
Uxcell makes a bunch of different waterproof connectors, I used everything from 2,4,6,8,10 and 12 pin adapters, even some of the aviation and high current ones. Here’s a few:
Whole bunch of different sizes, really helps make things clean, I got everything from ¼ to 1.5 “:
Heres one example
Obviously you can use whatever you want, but I found a 9 conductor 18ga from Stinger worked pretty well, that and using white wire with sharpie striping for color. Again all available on amazon. I used the 18ga for anything signal, 14ga or 12ga for anything carrying any medium current, and anything from 8ga on fuel pump and start solenoid, and up to 4ga for the mains.
Stinger SGW9920 9 Conductor Speedwire 20ft Roll Blue
I used a small 200A breaker on the fuse block itself, works great and also functions as a switch
200 AMP 12V DC CIRCUIT BREAKER REPLACE FUSE 200A 12VDC Scosche
Iso 280 relays for the fuse block:
Ill try to add a troubleshooting guide if I can get some time, and Ill try to keep it updated as I go.