Coolant leak on front passenger side??? - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Scottycali4nia View Post
I believe that they are required to fix that issue I posted.

the fact it's leaking from the passenger side though makes this bulletin useless.. I honestly believe that it is the radiator. there are only two hoses on that unit. one on each side. mine started as a slow leak and the smell of hot coolant. I assumed it was just a "lotus thing" until it erupted and that was that.

Here's the diagram of the cooling system if it helps you trouble shoot the passenger side hose / bleed screw.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/15592597/Lo...%20Cooling.pdf

on page 6, the hose going in the left hand side, you can see a band around it with what looks like a screw going into it on the top. that's the bleed screw.


also, just so you know, this is a full clam off job if you do have to replace the radiator. it's not that big of a deal if you have worked on cars before, it's just a little tedious with bolts in hard to access places. i would highly recommend getting an aluminum radiator.

Clam instructions:
Lotus Elise Maintenance, How to Remove the Front Clam

radiator:
Elise Parts - Engine & Gearbox - Cooling - Aluminium Upgraded Radiator

you should look for a single pass unit.
Thanks for the .pdf. I recently had to reformat my HDD and didn't back up my electronic manual so I lost it all. I need to go to the Lotus site and download it again as it is very helpful.

It is definitely not coming through the bleed screw. Tomorrow morning I will check the hose itself but, as it has been discussed in this thread, I doubt that is the cause. I've fully accepted that it is just the radiator giving out, as it has for many other Lotus owners.

I need to read up a little bit more in regards to which radiator I should go with. I know of several people that went with the one you listed, and also others that went with a pro-rad unit and also a wizard unit I believe?

Perhaps I should start a new thread on this, but what fan configuration did you go with? Single or double? What size(s)? Also, did you relocate them to top of the radiator? I'm still trying to figure that all out.

Also, I know it requires moving the clam and that will definitely be the biggest job I've attempted on my car. That being said, it seems like it is pretty straight-forward and doesn't require super exotic tools so I might give it a go to avoid paying the dealership 700 bucks to do it themselves. I figure a buddy and myself can knock it out over the weekend over a few beers. Am I underestimating this?

2006 ST Exige - GT-28RS, Darton sleeved/decked/line-honed, ARP hardware, Wiseco 8.8:1 pistons, MWR valves/springs/retainers, RC injectors, Walbro pump, CWorx oil pump, Moroso oil pan, S111 TrackMounts, Spearco intercooler, GReddy catch-can, Turbosmart BOV, Fidanza clutch/flywheel CF Panels/scoops, S111 Rear Diffuser/Rear-Panel Delete/discNOIR Brakes w/SS lines/RTDbrace/Towhook, APR CF Splitter Alpine unit w/MBQuart, CF binnacle/shifter, Schroth harness, S111 shift brace (Sold)
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post #22 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 06:39 AM
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well, I can stand for this one and say I am very happy with it's performance. It actually reduced my temps. it now never goes over 185deg

even with the car sitting still in traffic, it hasn't hit 200 yet.

Forge Motorsport oy Radiator LOTUS EXIGE 2006 - 2009 FMLOTRAD

2007 Exige S300 Aspen White

Tons of Sector111 and RLS goodies.
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post #23 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Ok so I took off the wheel well and ran the car and couldn't find any leaks from around the radiator. However, I noticed dripping under the ground and went to the back of the car and saw a steady stream of coolant coming off near the engine!

I tried to take a picture but it doesn't show much. Basically it looked like it was dripping from underneath the large tube leaving the engine on the driver's side. You could literally hear it hissing and even crazier was I could have SWORN that I even saw a little smoke coming off from under the hose!

Here is the picture:



It looked like it was coming from around or under the large hose in the picture. Also, what is that black circle with the gold-colored mount under it?

2006 ST Exige - GT-28RS, Darton sleeved/decked/line-honed, ARP hardware, Wiseco 8.8:1 pistons, MWR valves/springs/retainers, RC injectors, Walbro pump, CWorx oil pump, Moroso oil pan, S111 TrackMounts, Spearco intercooler, GReddy catch-can, Turbosmart BOV, Fidanza clutch/flywheel CF Panels/scoops, S111 Rear Diffuser/Rear-Panel Delete/discNOIR Brakes w/SS lines/RTDbrace/Towhook, APR CF Splitter Alpine unit w/MBQuart, CF binnacle/shifter, Schroth harness, S111 shift brace (Sold)
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post #24 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Well I think I figured it out. I let the car cool down so I could poke around without burning myself and I felt underneath one of the hoses and felt a HUGE cut in the hose. Apparently the sharp metal clip thing has been rubbing on it for who knows how long and I guess it finally rubbed it all the way through. I think you can see it in the picture:



So I guess now I just need to order a new hose and make sure it doesn't rub anymore. Definitely prefer this over having to get a new radiator!

2006 ST Exige - GT-28RS, Darton sleeved/decked/line-honed, ARP hardware, Wiseco 8.8:1 pistons, MWR valves/springs/retainers, RC injectors, Walbro pump, CWorx oil pump, Moroso oil pan, S111 TrackMounts, Spearco intercooler, GReddy catch-can, Turbosmart BOV, Fidanza clutch/flywheel CF Panels/scoops, S111 Rear Diffuser/Rear-Panel Delete/discNOIR Brakes w/SS lines/RTDbrace/Towhook, APR CF Splitter Alpine unit w/MBQuart, CF binnacle/shifter, Schroth harness, S111 shift brace (Sold)
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post #25 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 12:26 PM
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That's cool - but I still have to wonder about the dried up coolant up front behind the turn signal. It came from somewhere.

Dave
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post #26 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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That's cool - but I still have to wonder about the dried up coolant up front behind the turn signal. It came from somewhere.

Dave
I agree and it is still on my list. However, I started to wonder if perhaps the previous owner already replaced the radiator? I really poked around it and could find absolutely no indication of a leak recently coming from there. All I saw was that coolant that was in the picture I attached, but who knows how old that is?

Anyways, I guess the pool of coolant at the front could be attributed to the coolant just running down the underpanel to the front of the car. It appears my driveway is it a slight downward slope.

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post #27 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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http://www.lotusgarage.com/shop/imag...6.01_large.jpg

Can somebody provide some guidance on what part I need? It is the hose that has the bleed screw attached to it. Do I need part number 13 in the link above?

2006 ST Exige - GT-28RS, Darton sleeved/decked/line-honed, ARP hardware, Wiseco 8.8:1 pistons, MWR valves/springs/retainers, RC injectors, Walbro pump, CWorx oil pump, Moroso oil pan, S111 TrackMounts, Spearco intercooler, GReddy catch-can, Turbosmart BOV, Fidanza clutch/flywheel CF Panels/scoops, S111 Rear Diffuser/Rear-Panel Delete/discNOIR Brakes w/SS lines/RTDbrace/Towhook, APR CF Splitter Alpine unit w/MBQuart, CF binnacle/shifter, Schroth harness, S111 shift brace (Sold)
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post #28 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpfergu View Post
I agree and it is still on my list. However, I started to wonder if perhaps the previous owner already replaced the radiator? I really poked around it and could find absolutely no indication of a leak recently coming from there. All I saw was that coolant that was in the picture I attached, but who knows how old that is?

Anyways, I guess the pool of coolant at the front could be attributed to the coolant just running down the underpanel to the front of the car. It appears my driveway is it a slight downward slope.
I would wash out the dried coolant from the crash structure with warm water and then check it after a few drives. That will tell you everything you nee to know.

Dave
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post #29 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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I would wash out the dried coolant from the crash structure with warm water and then check it after a few drives. That will tell you everything you nee to know.

Dave
Good idea. I'll definitely do that.

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post #30 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 01:19 PM
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There's a good chance I've got the hose you need if you can get me a better pic of it. The one I have that has the bleed screw on it looks different than part 13 in the pic. Anyway, I'd be happy to send it to you if you cover shipping it.

Figure it's never a bad thing to help out another Lotus owner. Eventually I'll get around to posting all my parts for sale (like I have a stock radiator that is leak free as well) from when I completely re-did my coolant system. All the hoses are in good condition.
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post #31 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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There's a good chance I've got the hose you need if you can get me a better pic of it. The one I have that has the bleed screw on it looks different than part 13 in the pic. Anyway, I'd be happy to send it to you if you cover shipping it.

Figure it's never a bad thing to help out another Lotus owner. Eventually I'll get around to posting all my parts for sale (like I have a stock radiator that is leak free as well) from when I completely re-did my coolant system. All the hoses are in good condition.
Wow that would be great! It is the hose that has the bleeder valve on it that runs sort of under the expansion tank. I tried snapping pictures of the two ends of it.




2006 ST Exige - GT-28RS, Darton sleeved/decked/line-honed, ARP hardware, Wiseco 8.8:1 pistons, MWR valves/springs/retainers, RC injectors, Walbro pump, CWorx oil pump, Moroso oil pan, S111 TrackMounts, Spearco intercooler, GReddy catch-can, Turbosmart BOV, Fidanza clutch/flywheel CF Panels/scoops, S111 Rear Diffuser/Rear-Panel Delete/discNOIR Brakes w/SS lines/RTDbrace/Towhook, APR CF Splitter Alpine unit w/MBQuart, CF binnacle/shifter, Schroth harness, S111 shift brace (Sold)
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post #32 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 01:39 PM
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So this one then right?



If so PM me your address and I'll drop it in the mail Monday. Just let me know how expensive you want to ship it (overnight, 2nd day, ground etc). I'll just have you paypal me once it is shipped.

Actually I just realized something....this may be the one they had me cut...so um...if that is that case you could just get one of those hose joiners and then splice it in.
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post #33 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 01:44 PM
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Also I just realized if it's the one I think it may be then the end that is cut has a long hose going to that metal pipe. You could have it fixed today by just pulling the hose, taking it to any auto store have them cut a straight line to match up to just shy of the bend, and then splicing it in with a hose connector.

Edit to add, I just verified it's the one that the radium turbo kit has you cut. So it goes from down near firewall on the drivers side, up over the gear shifters and then around into the coolant pipe. Based on that I seriously would just cut it where it is torn and then use a radiator hose coupler and a couple of clamps:



Then zip tie it to the hoses above it to lift it up off the linkage.

Last edited by Deja Vu; 11-10-2012 at 01:53 PM.
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post #34 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Also I just realized if it's the one I think it may be then the end that is cut has a long hose going to that metal pipe. You could have it fixed today by just pulling the hose, taking it to any auto store have them cut a straight line to match up to just shy of the bend, and then splicing it in with a hose connector.
Yeah the gouge is below that "U" bend. However, it appears that I have one solid hose all the way to the metal connector.

Is that the route you took? Did you just cut the hose after the U and just use a hose connector to connect it to the long, straight part that connects to the metal connector?

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post #35 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 02:02 PM
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Yeah the gouge is below that "U" bend. However, it appears that I have one solid hose all the way to the metal connector.

Is that the route you took? Did you just cut the hose after the U and just use a hose connector to connect it to the long, straight part that connects to the metal connector?

I don't even have that metal pipe anymore, I fyou look at post #33 here: https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/d...95/index2.html

You'll see that green radium connector that has three ports coming off of it. The hose with the bleeder is cut and then attached to the open end of that green connector. If I were you I would pull that hose, slice out the section with the tear and rejoin them. If you are worried about the hose length you could just get a long enough straight piece from a store to connect to the part that is left with the bends. It is the bends and bleed screw that are the important part of that hose.

There won't be any difference in performance if you do it that way, and it'll save you some money. Make sure you bleed the system after you do that.
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post #36 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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I don't even have that metal pipe anymore, I fyou look at post #33 here: https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/d...95/index2.html

You'll see that green radium connector that has three ports coming off of it. The hose with the bleeder is cut and then attached to the open end of that green connector. If I were you I would pull that hose, slice out the section with the tear and rejoin them. If you are worried about the hose length you could just get a long enough straight piece from a store to connect to the part that is left with the bends. It is the bends and bleed screw that are the important part of that hose.

There won't be any difference in performance if you do it that way, and it'll save you some money. Make sure you bleed the system after you do that.
Do you know what the size of the hose we are talking about is? And is that coupler that posted something that I could pick up at any hardware store? Or is that something I would need to contact Radium or someone about?

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post #37 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 02:33 PM
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Apologies for not communicating well. Any auto store will have one. Here's an example from Autozone:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=439347_0_0_

The easiest way to make sure you get the right thing is to remove the hose from both ends and cap them off, or plug them up with something (or you could drain all the coolant, but then it is an even bigger pain to get rid of all the air). Then take the hose to autozone or whatever and have them find you the size that fits.

But let me go measure mine.
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post #38 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 02:40 PM
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OK so it's a 3/4" inch ID hose. So I'd call around the local parts store until you found one of these:

HERE

Get that, a couple of stainless hose clamps and if you are like me to be safe get 4-5 ( you probably only need more like 3) feet of 3/4" ID heater hose. I'd then cut off your hose after the molded in bends, attach the connector to that and clamp it down with the hose clamp. Then attach the new hose to the connector. Then route how you want it and see where you need to cut it to reach that connector down low. Getting a longer hose may make it easier to get it up off of those links

By making the cut right after the lower 90 degree bend the new clamped parts should be more easily accessible (I think! First check to see if there is an easy spot, if not assemble the hose before you put it in).

Last edited by Deja Vu; 11-10-2012 at 02:45 PM.
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post #39 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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OK so it's a 3/4" inch ID hose. So I'd call around the local parts store until you found one of these:

HERE

Get that, a couple of stainless hose clamps and if you are like me to be safe get 4-5 ( you probably only need more like 3) feet of 3/4" ID heater hose. I'd then cut off your hose after the molded in bends, attach the connector to that and clamp it down with the hose clamp. Then attach the new hose to the connector. Then route how you want it and see where you need to cut it to reach that connector down low. Getting a longer hose may make it easier to get it up off of those links
Awesome! Thanks so much for the help on this. I'll try to pick up all this tomorrow and see if I can hook it all up. Looks like I'll need to go pick up some more coolant as well.

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post #40 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 10:26 AM
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Good luck!
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