Installed Pro Alloy Radiator 07 Exige, Radiator Cold - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 07:36 AM
He's on fire!
 
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seconded on making sure you're solving the right problem. Seems odd you can't hold vacuum but also haven't identified a leak?

In addition to other things ppl listed, you can put a dye in the coolant that glows under black light to help ID a leak

"Give a man a match, and he'll be warm for a minute, but set him on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."
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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I find this strange as well. I pressurized the system this morning and there is definitely a leak somewhere but I have listened to every hose I can access and don't hear anything externally. If I listen near the block I hear a very faint noise but its hard to tell.

I clamped off the Raidator hoses and took that out of the equation and the leak was still there so at least rules out the radiator being the issue.

Just not sure what else could have went in the system but not show any external signs.
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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 09:04 AM
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Did you check cooling u tube? It is zip tied to oil lines and the metal wears at the bottom.

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05 elise GG sport touring BWR s/c Charliex s/p dent in chassis=total loss
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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't notice any wear there, I have the factory oil coolers removed and running a rear mounted setup. But I will take a look back there, it is right above the oil filter right?
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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 09:38 AM
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yes

05 elise ardent red sport touring VF1 s/c, pro rad, arquay twin, etc etc etc
05 elise GG sport touring BWR s/c Charliex s/p dent in chassis=total loss
17 BMW 428i conv wifes car
03 GMC Yukon
90 eclipse gsx 420 whp sold
04 civic si sold
13 Ford focus ST
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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 10:23 AM
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if you have an 07, you might not have the utube that rubs raw, I don't.

"Give a man a match, and he'll be warm for a minute, but set him on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."
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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I have not checked yet but I never recalled removing any zip tie back there and it looked pretty open in that area.

What internally if anything could have started leaking? Water pump and HG are really all that come to mind. I will have some time this weekend and will at least do compression test as that is most straight forward.
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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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I went through every hose again and just don't see or hear any kind of leak anywhere. The sound I thought I could hear from the block I don't really hear anymore either so could have been just some noise my bad hearing picked up.

Hopefully the compression/leakdown will give me some hints. I will update the thread again once I figure out what the issue was.
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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 05:55 PM
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Ok I highly doubt it is your head gasket! It was functioning properly before. It has to be something with the new component. I would remove the radiator and make sure that there is flow through the radiator before attempting any engine work. If your front clam is off pull the radiator hose up and fill the radiator with fluid and then reattach pipes I still believe that there's air in your system. Btw i have used the airlift tool 5 times on multiple vehicles without issue. Do you have a large compressor? At least 25 gallons? If not the airlift tool does not work as well.

05 elise ardent red sport touring VF1 s/c, pro rad, arquay twin, etc etc etc
05 elise GG sport touring BWR s/c Charliex s/p dent in chassis=total loss
17 BMW 428i conv wifes car
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90 eclipse gsx 420 whp sold
04 civic si sold
13 Ford focus ST
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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I have a 26 gallon compressor and can run at 90 psi for a while. Like I said it just doesn't want to hold the vacuum.

I did do a compression test so I agree that it is unlikely to be my head gasket. Got from left to right 220-222-225-223 so all good numbers to me.

Is it possible that once I see 25" vacuum that I need to let it run longer? It does pull to 25" very quickly, I could be using it incorrectly I suppose
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post #31 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-19-2015, 01:34 PM
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Suggest pulling both rubber hoses at the radiator and devising a system to pump water through the radiator to make sure there is good flow through the radiator. If not you likely would have to remove it to troubleshoot.

One possibility is coolant incompatibility leading to a goop that would block the radiator tubes. Another, that I actually have seen, is that if your car sat in a barn for more than a few days with open lines in the cooling system then mice will have built a nest and/or food cache in your cooling system. When their mess is cool some water will flow, when water heats up the food (usually corn kernals) or nest material expands and will almost totally block water flow through the radiator

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post #32 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-19-2015, 01:52 PM
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Did you have the heater set to full hot?

If you getting 26" of vacuum, keep pressure on the airlift cone and and see if the vacuum holds steady for 30 seconds or so (compressor turned off). If it does, keep pressure on the cone for the entire refill and that will at least assure you that air isn't coming in through the expansion tank.

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post #33 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-19-2015, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Confirmed that the Radiator appears to be fine since I did some flow tests tonight and seems on par with the oem one and holds pressure fine.

I pulled another vacuum again with the oem rad and still had the leak (I need to stop doing this vacuum thing but need to find the leak! )

So I took out my stethoscope and listened around. The only place that I could hear a faint noise of air is when I put the stethoscope to the front or behind the pulley on the water pump. It is a slow leak but seems like that may be where it is. I haven't had any leaks over there but something is happening right in that area that I cannot explain.

I assume the pump has some sort of inner seal for the shaft? A little cost involved to it but may be worth a shot at this point. It is all I have to go on it seems.

Last edited by mbrunner; 06-22-2015 at 04:29 AM.
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post #34 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-24-2015, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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I figured I would update this thread. Took the water pump off there was a little bit of shaft play. I put the new one on and re-filled using the Airlift (last time I swear! ) and the system held 25" vacuum so hopefully I am out of t he clear. Need to get the pulley/belt back on to run it but looking good.

Such an odd thing to fail.
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post #35 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-03-2015, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Just going to revisit something here...

So I think I have it pretty well sorted apart from one odd behavior. I am running temps around 189-191 when driving, 195~ when below 40mph.

So that is good, however my Radium header tank I have to keep completely full. Before I did anything I had it at about half level but if I do that now the car will overheat. If I top off the header tank, the car runs steady temps.

Any thoughts as to what may be going on there?
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