FYI - In this thread
Glagola1 (post #11) claims a ~10 degree difference between OEM and the F1 Radiator. Take that with a grain of salt, probably not the most scientific study
but still good feedback.
Radiator aside there are a number of other changes you can make to increase cooling.
1. Increase system pressure
- Change out the pressure cap on your header tank to increase pressure, which raises the boiling point.
2. Use less Antifreeze
- Water is much more efficient at heat transfer by itself. Increasing the amount of distilled water in the system will help but needs balanced as the boiling point goes down (without a pressure increase) and your freezing point raises. You can get the same boiling point of 260F but more efficiency with 100% distilled water and water wetter @ 20psi than you can with a 50/50 mix at 12 psi. Clearly there are freezing issues here you'll have to be prepared to handle.
3. Electric Water Pump
- you can program most of them to run (and the fans) after engine shutdown to continue coolant flow. Helps between AutoX runs.
4. Convert to Puller fans
- As already mentioned.
5. Remove the Laminova
- This may be your biggest issue as that thing is just burdening your radiator even more with the additional heat.
For what it's worth as the OP I ended up approaching this the way I kill spiders, overkill. I purchased BWR's 42mm radiator
(not the F1) and did #1,2,3,4 above as well
My logic was, similar to your issue, the lack of real data to do a comparison and I only wanted to mess this once and move on.
2006 Lotus Exige: Avery Matte Graphite wrap, partial built motor (9:1 Mahle pistons, Ferrea Competition valves, ACT Clutch, ARP head studs), REV400, Nitron SAs, BOE QS exhaust, Ultradisc rotors, Moroso Oil pan, Circuitworks oil pump, CF Stuff (Cup Roof, ReVerie diffusor, side scoops, APR air dam, craftsquare mirrors), Worksbell quick release, Odyssey PC625, Morimoto Xenon HID, BOE Rear Oil Cooler, Difflow Aeroplates, BOE Swirl Pot, DaviesCraig EWP, Reversed Heater Matrix