Temporary Radiator Bypass - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-29-2015, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Temporary Radiator Bypass

How feasible/safe is bypassing the radiator as a temporary fix to drive the car 30 miles back home? It looks like I blew out an endcap (squirt on the driver window) and lost a lot of coolant in the process.
Interestingly, I already have CoolantHoses from Sector111, all the clamps/Gates for the swap, radiator arriving Tuesday, and Spal fans arriving Thursday. I just wound up in a crap place where towing charges are insane.


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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-29-2015, 09:02 PM
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30 miles with no radiator?

I bet it will be cheaper to have the car transported.

Apexes are a lot like relationships. So tough to get right, so easy to see where they went wrong.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-29-2015, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silicon View Post
How feasible/safe is bypassing the radiator as a temporary fix to drive the car 30 miles back home?
You won't make it one shot . . . too much heat to eliminate at any speed. You'd have to drive until the coolant was just below max, let it cool and repeat. I'm guessing maybe 5 - 6 minutes at a time starting from coolant at ambient temperature. Keeping the rpm below 2500 would help. Thirty miles at 30 mph in 5 minute legs with a twenty minute cool down in between would be 4 hrs 40 min en route time.

I guess you could pipe in an external coolant reservoir - like a cooler filled with ice water in the boot. Instead of in and out to the radiator, you'd plumb an intake and return to the ice cooler. The system wouldn't have to be sealed since it will never be pressurized. But - that would take fitting some hoses in place of the current hoses that go up front. I'm not sure where the coolant temp sensor is - you'd have to make sure you didn't eliminate it from the coolant flow so you could monitor temps.

If it were me, I'd tow it. The damage from overheating a head is far more costly and inconvenient than a tow. And add tow insurance to your policy . . . I pay $5 a year for emergency towing. Fate Starm has towed to my house twice since I do my own repairs.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 07:33 AM
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Better turn on the heater!

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 08:42 AM
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A flatbed is the quickest and safest solution; or if you want to DIY, an UHAUL car transporter.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input everyone.

I looked at it again, there is no way to drive it. The plastic end cap isn't as small of a crack as I had hoped. I looked like it is corner cracked almost the entire length of the radiator. Who the heck even makes such a terrible product?
I wonder what else I have to swap out, I have been hit with 100% of the "this item will fail on your Lotus" posts that I have read.
Coolant overflow, radiator, oil lines. What else do I need to change to avoid failures? :-) Thankfully this car has been pretty reliable as a daily driver with extremely limited downtime. I should be back up and running on Wednesday (would have been today if I had the parts in hand).
As a note NJ prices for towing can be through the roof. NJ has quite a few tow truck specific laws to prevent predatory activities, but it still doesn't help. Price per mile can easily get over $10 a mile and that doesn't include hooking fees, unhooking fees, flatbed surcharges, and whatever other imaginary charges they throw at you. That is the reason I was initially inclined to simply drive it home (an engine rebuild might be cheaper!).


Blackwatch - Black Emblems, Penske SA|Radium - Catch Cans, Coolant Tank, Intercooler Couplers, Green Ti Lug Bolts, Fuel Hose, Fuel Pressure Gauge|RLS - Green Intercooler Tubes|Mororso Hard Ano Red Baffled Oil Pan|Shift-I|BOE ProAlloy, BOELinks, Diffuser Brace, Quarter Stick|S111 BBHook, Spal Fans, Floormats|Fast Toys Green Carpet Buttons
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 08:06 PM
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Same thing happened to my 2008 S240 on the freeway; luckily it was still under warranty, and the engine was on Lotus - the temp gauge was at 238 degrees, and the engine was cooked.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 10:32 PM
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Join AAA.

Note to new Elise & Exige Owners:

1. These cars have large (i.e. dangerous) blind spots. Multivex mirrors are NLA, but RLS (Really Light Stuff) offers very good tape-on replacements.


2. The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be.

Get something such as a Stebel Nautilus.

Stock: “Excuse me”


Stebel: “HONK! LOOK OUT!”

Remove the stock horn; replace with louder.

(I drive with my finger on the horn button in any traffic. Iffy situations, my headlights are on.)


3. The early cars came with misaimed and dim headlights. If you drive at night, convert to HIDs. While better than stock halogen bulbs are available, HIDs throw more light. Stay around 5000k.


4. Ensure your car has had the work required by the recall for oil line fittings done. You could lose an engine and/or spin in your own oil.

5. The best transmission lube I’ve found is Redline MT-90 plus a little Power Punch Extreme Gear Oil Additive. (Note that it takes two changes to get rid of the previous lube.)

a) Early cars have wobbly shift towers. Look up Stan’s Mod (bolt and spacer; http://www.billswebspace.com/ShifterReinforcement.pdf) and

Sector 111 long thru bolt that terminates under car: re-ENFORCER - Shift reinforcement for the Lotus Elise and Exige - Sector111

These (lube, mods) make a huge change in shifting.


6. As per some engine builders on these sites, wait at least 10 minutes after coolant has reached full operating temp before engaging cam switchover.


7. Rear toe-links can loosen and break with disastrous results. You can check tq periodically, or use Nordlock washers. Best is conversion to better engineered brace, such as BOE’s for one example.


8. While under the car with panel off, look around for hoses and wires chafing their way to failure. That’s how this was found:
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f311...-u-tube-47232/


9. Visit the Uber Thread

05 elise (BOE Rev300 supercharged, SSRs, shift tower mods, Multivex; HID hi/low beams); 05 Corolla XRS. Past '72 Elan Sprint (I restored), Lotus 7 w/X-flow, TT Supra, Bugeye Sprite, BMW 2002 & 2002tii, '65 GTO.

Driving Tips-https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f10...art-1-a-49665/
Moss Emergency Line-https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f10...cy-line-36631/
Bleeding Brakes- https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f10...-brakes-241138
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 11:12 PM
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Good info glb. Of the items on your list, I have never felt the need to change the side view mirrors (#1). Turning left onto an acute angle road is tricky but otherwise I'm comfortable with the visibility of the stock Elise after adjusting mirrors properly.

On the HIDs, very very happy with the ORE xenon projectors / Sector 111 lumps kit. Better than simply putting xenon bulbs in the stock halogen projectors. Truly makes a huge safety difference when trying to drive at night.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glb View Post
Join AAA.
I actually have it, I'm on a family plan and it appears they have been paying for the basic service for years, which includes 3miles of towing. That is being upgraded during renewals in October to the 100mile option.

Quote:
Originally Posted by glb View Post
2. The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be.
I think I used my horn intentionally once. I think I've hit my horn by accident twice, briefly scared me both times thinking someone was honking at me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by glb View Post
4. Ensure your car has had the work required by the recall for oil line fittings done. You could lose an engine and/or spin in your own oil.
That already blew out just before the recall notice was received by me. Also, after the dealer destroyed my 2006 Exige (in service for 23 weeks in total, I told them what was wrong, it was 5 minutes of work, they did everything but what I told them) and had to pay me 100% of the cost + aftermarket, I decided to never let a dealer touch my car again.
My car could be on fire with me trapped inside and if the dealer was the only one that could help, cleanup/rescue crews would find a burnt corpse displaying two middle fingers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by glb View Post
a) Early cars have wobbly shift towers. Look up Stan’s Mod (bolt and spacer; http://www.billswebspace.com/ShifterReinforcement.pdf) and

Sector 111 long thru bolt that terminates under car: re-ENFORCER - Shift reinforcement for the Lotus Elise and Exige - Sector111

These (lube, mods) make a huge change in shifting.
I'm probably going to look in to doing these mods, thanks for the links!

Quote:
Originally Posted by glb View Post
7. Rear toe-links can loosen and break with disastrous results. You can check tq periodically, or use Nordlock washers. Best is conversion to better engineered brace, such as BOE’s for one example.
Mine got wiggly, so I got the full links from BOE (I have the only set ever produced in Moss green). I also learned how to do the stick, string, micrometer, slip plate method of alignment at home.

Quote:
Originally Posted by glb View Post
8. While under the car with panel off, look around for hoses and wires chafing their way to failure. That’s how this was found:
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f311...-u-tube-47232/
I have that one bookmarked, going to tackle that this weekend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by glb View Post
9. Visit the Uber Thread
I keep forgetting that was created, amusingly it never shows up in any of my searches.

Thanks again to anyone that provided feedback! I plopped in the ProRad from BOE, coolantHOSES, and stainless steel T-Bolts (36-39mm, be warned the tolerances on those are extremely tight and a PITA to get installed)


Blackwatch - Black Emblems, Penske SA|Radium - Catch Cans, Coolant Tank, Intercooler Couplers, Green Ti Lug Bolts, Fuel Hose, Fuel Pressure Gauge|RLS - Green Intercooler Tubes|Mororso Hard Ano Red Baffled Oil Pan|Shift-I|BOE ProAlloy, BOELinks, Diffuser Brace, Quarter Stick|S111 BBHook, Spal Fans, Floormats|Fast Toys Green Carpet Buttons
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Senna's Dad View Post
Same thing happened to my 2008 S240 on the freeway; luckily it was still under warranty, and the engine was on Lotus - the temp gauge was at 238 degrees, and the engine was cooked.
When you say 'cooked', was it dead and not restarting/seized?


Blackwatch - Black Emblems, Penske SA|Radium - Catch Cans, Coolant Tank, Intercooler Couplers, Green Ti Lug Bolts, Fuel Hose, Fuel Pressure Gauge|RLS - Green Intercooler Tubes|Mororso Hard Ano Red Baffled Oil Pan|Shift-I|BOE ProAlloy, BOELinks, Diffuser Brace, Quarter Stick|S111 BBHook, Spal Fans, Floormats|Fast Toys Green Carpet Buttons
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
I think I used my horn intentionally once. I think I've hit my horn by accident twice, briefly scared me both times thinking someone was honking at me.
If the horn is stock, it is unsafe. Many examples on this site, including a hot rod that backed into a Lotus slowly, because the h/r driver did not hear the horn....in parking.

Tell story of the dealer...uh....deal.

05 elise (BOE Rev300 supercharged, SSRs, shift tower mods, Multivex; HID hi/low beams); 05 Corolla XRS. Past '72 Elan Sprint (I restored), Lotus 7 w/X-flow, TT Supra, Bugeye Sprite, BMW 2002 & 2002tii, '65 GTO.

Driving Tips-https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f10...art-1-a-49665/
Moss Emergency Line-https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f10...cy-line-36631/
Bleeding Brakes- https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f10...-brakes-241138
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