2015 Elise A/C issue - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Elise A/C issue

Hi there

My friend just bought used 2015 Elise, the problem with the A/C is not cold enough, so he went to a shop and they have checked the rear pipes and informed him there might be leak from the A/C itself

I want to help him out to get the bottom of the correct part so we can change it, the question is if the pipes shows no leak, so what is the part of A/C might cause the leak? I don't know the correct term of that part

I need your help if anyone had the same issue before

I need to understand and I have questions it might be silly questions but I need to know about it

What is the HVAC Box ?

What is the resistor pack?

What is the Air-cond Condensor? is the Condensor = fridge ?

please I need your help

Last edited by zakria; 01-04-2019 at 06:24 PM.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 06:28 AM
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Quick Answers:
The HVAC Box is in the front of the car and is mainly used to route the air flow from between AC and Heat.
The Resistor Pack is used to control the speed of the fan that distributes air into the cabin.
The AC Condenser is in front of the car and cools the air going into the HVAC box utilizing the AC Compressor in the back to pressurized the coolant.


Slow Answers: The AC system in the Elise is very similar to all cars but because of the mid engine layout involves more logistic issues than in a front drive car. Everything is either hidden, in a tight spot, or buried in body work and trouble shooting is a real pain. When you stated that the pipes show no leak I believe that you are referring to the rubber pipes from the AC compressor to the bulkhead connections in the back right side of the car. The rubber pipes are connected by the bulkhead fitting to long solid pipes running down the sill on the passenger side to the front of the car. If these are leaking, hopefully not, they cannot be directly replaced with out tearing out the sill. BUT, they be replaced with proper rubber hoses. It is still a pain but doable, believe me I know. Did that, done that.

Working on that AC system is not for the faint of heart. It requires some specialized tools and a good knowledge of how it works. Even then, many AC shops won't touch the Elise for the aforementioned reasons. My first recommendation is to find out what is actually wrong by answering a couple of basic questions:


Is the system holding the AC charge or is it leaking? If it is leaking, then where?

If the system holds a charge, does the compressor kick on when the AC button is engaged?


If the compressor kicks in and the high and low side are within specs, is the front HVAC flapper valve moving to direct the air properly?


There are many hints, fixes, helps and ideas throughout this forum that deals with AC issues. Suggest that you search them out. You can PM me if I can help.

"It always seems to be something!"
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotus72Eur View Post


Quick Answers:
The HVAC Box is in the front of the car and is mainly used to route the air flow from between AC and Heat.
The Resistor Pack is used to control the speed of the fan that distributes air into the cabin.
The AC Condenser is in front of the car and cools the air going into the HVAC box utilizing the AC Compressor in the back to pressurized the coolant.


Slow Answers: The AC system in the Elise is very similar to all cars but because of the mid engine layout involves more logistic issues than in a front drive car. Everything is either hidden, in a tight spot, or buried in body work and trouble shooting is a real pain. When you stated that the pipes show no leak I believe that you are referring to the rubber pipes from the AC compressor to the bulkhead connections in the back right side of the car. The rubber pipes are connected by the bulkhead fitting to long solid pipes running down the sill on the passenger side to the front of the car. If these are leaking, hopefully not, they cannot be directly replaced with out tearing out the sill. BUT, they be replaced with proper rubber hoses. It is still a pain but doable, believe me I know. Did that, done that.

Working on that AC system is not for the faint of heart. It requires some specialized tools and a good knowledge of how it works. Even then, many AC shops won't touch the Elise for the aforementioned reasons. My first recommendation is to find out what is actually wrong by answering a couple of basic questions:


Is the system holding the AC charge or is it leaking? If it is leaking, then where?

If the system holds a charge, does the compressor kick on when the AC button is engaged?


If the compressor kicks in and the high and low side are within specs, is the front HVAC flapper valve moving to direct the air properly?


There are many hints, fixes, helps and ideas throughout this forum that deals with AC issues. Suggest that you search them out. You can PM me if I can help.
That was helpful information and thank you for clearing that!!

you were right, when he checked the pipes it was near the compressor(rubber pipes) and the compressor kicks in and the air comes out normally but the guy at the shop he said it might the issue from the fridge in other words (A/C terms) is the condenser I guess.

what makes me wonder, the car like brand new it is 2015 and it has like 20,000 KM on it.

anyway, I believe the condenser is placed under the radiator which is easy to replace right?

I think this part need to be replaced if there isn't any leak shows either from the rubber pipes or the pipes under the windscreen. am I right?
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 07:10 AM
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If the compressor kicks in, over much time (days) it is most likely there is no leak in the system. The system must have a minimum charge to allow the compressor to kick in. If the charge drops below a certain level on the low side the computer prevents the compressor from kicking in. That said, first thing I would do is see if there is sufficient charge in the system. It might be on the low side where it allows the compressor to kick in but is not high enough to sufficiently charge the system. I think (Best to check as I am not sure) but with the compressor running the low side should be about 35 psi and the high side about 150 psi. Again, check these out as I am not sure at this time about those values. If the pressures are within specs and the interior fan works in all threes positions, I would look to see if the flap valve is working. If it is stuck in the heat position the interior air after it is cooled by the AC unit is run over the heater core and this will warm it up again. Somewhere on this forum is a good diagram on how the heater box works and it will clear this up. Replacing the condenser is not as easy as it seems as the front clam needs to be removed and the radiator removed opening up the engine antifreeze cooling system. Let me know.;.

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