Another DIY Resistor Pack Replacement - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Another DIY Resistor Pack Replacement

With the guidance of the LT community and my 'phone a friend' lifeline (thanks Caleb @cyow5 )...I started the process of switching out my resistor pack due to complete fan failure from the cockpit controls. This jobs sucks, no doubt about it. Total feeling of accomplishment when you finally get that box out though I'm also replacing the dryer, expansion valve, and o rings.

Clearly, I found the issue...
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Few scratches, piece of thumbnail, and a ton of f bombs later...
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 08:34 AM
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Glad I could help! My biggest fear when I did mine was that I'd find the resistor pack in pristine condition, haha.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 10:17 AM
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Damn, dreading this job!

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 10:57 AM
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did you have good instructions to do this? I may need to tear into the front again because my heater flap is busted, and may want to check my resistor pack as well.

Lotus Elise '05 Graphite Grey; Miles: 41,xxx
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 11:01 AM
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If the heater flap servo is dead, you have to 99% of the work anyways so you might as well do the resistor pack at the same time. If it is dead, replace it with this part - Dorman 6045103. From RockAuto, it is $46 compared to over $100 from Lotus suppliers.
Harix likes this.

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 11:08 AM
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For a writeup, here is what I sent Zakk to pick up after the front clam is off. I wrote it up myself, so it is subject to errors and the fact that more shoddy people have worked on this car in the past than you'd believe. I literally pulled a French Toast stick out of around the heater core once...

1) Drain coolant. Maybe. You'll spill a ton either way since you can't drain the heater core, so I didn't bother. If you have something to cap the coolant lines as you remove them (Saran wrap and zipties work great) then that's probably easier overall than having to refill all the coolant.

2) Drain AC by cracking a line if you didn't have the foresight to have a shop do this before tearing it down. I let it trickle out overnight so I didn't lose as much oil

3) Remove the elephant trunk going from the blower to the interior diverter

4) Remove any electrical connector you see. You'll have to pop a protective cover off of the heater control flap to get to its connector

5) Remove both lines to the AC dryer (black cylinder) and then cap the lines

6) Remove the expansion valve by loosening the Allen screw on top in between the two lines. This will release clamps at the top and bottom, and it all comes apart. Cap these lines, too.

7) Remove and cap the coolant lines running to the heater core. If you cap both the lines and the connections at the core, it might be less messy.

8) There are two metal latches that hold the blower to the heater core, so pop those loose, and remove the bracket that runs fore/aft holding the heater core assembly in place.

9) Now the fun part. This is how I did mine, so your mileage may vary. I rotated the heater/AC core out (counterclockwise when looking at the car from the front) and basically flipped it upside down to get it back out.

10) Once you are done swearing and have the heater/AC core out, the blower fan pops out pretty easily.

11) The resistor pack is on the bottom and should be straightforward. I didn't use a kit, so I have no idea what you'll have to work with. Just make sure the new pack is mounted such that it gets airflow or it will overheat on the lower speeds.

12) Installation is pretty much the reverse, just watch for the edges on the heater/AC core since they can catch on the way back in. You'll also want to pour coolant/water directly into the heater core to replace any that was lost or else it'll be a bitch to bleed. I regret not doing this...

Upgrades - I pulled out some of the ducting for the footwells and cleaned that up. I also cleaned the chassis with some pontoon boat cleaner. I replaced most of the foam pieces since mine were deteriorated. I also used clear silicone to seal the seams around the plastic boxes since they were leaking out air something awful. This was probably the single biggest improvement.

Also, hooking up a heater core bypass solenoid is a massive upgrade for the summer, but that is only slightly easier now then later on.

"Lots Of Trouble; Usually Serious"
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 02:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyow5 View Post
For a writeup, here is what I sent Zakk to pick up after the front clam is off. I wrote it up myself, so it is subject to errors and the fact that more shoddy people have worked on this car in the past than you'd believe. I literally pulled a French Toast stick out of around the heater core once...

1) Drain coolant. Maybe. You'll spill a ton either way since you can't drain the heater core, so I didn't bother. If you have something to cap the coolant lines as you remove them (Saran wrap and zipties work great) then that's probably easier overall than having to refill all the coolant.

2) Drain AC by cracking a line if you didn't have the foresight to have a shop do this before tearing it down. I let it trickle out overnight so I didn't lose as much oil

3) Remove the elephant trunk going from the blower to the interior diverter

4) Remove any electrical connector you see. You'll have to pop a protective cover off of the heater control flap to get to its connector

5) Remove both lines to the AC dryer (black cylinder) and then cap the lines

6) Remove the expansion valve by loosening the Allen screw on top in between the two lines. This will release clamps at the top and bottom, and it all comes apart. Cap these lines, too.

7) Remove and cap the coolant lines running to the heater core. If you cap both the lines and the connections at the core, it might be less messy.

8) There are two metal latches that hold the blower to the heater core, so pop those loose, and remove the bracket that runs fore/aft holding the heater core assembly in place.

9) Now the fun part. This is how I did mine, so your mileage may vary. I rotated the heater/AC core out (counterclockwise when looking at the car from the front) and basically flipped it upside down to get it back out.

10) Once you are done swearing and have the heater/AC core out, the blower fan pops out pretty easily.

11) The resistor pack is on the bottom and should be straightforward. I didn't use a kit, so I have no idea what you'll have to work with. Just make sure the new pack is mounted such that it gets airflow or it will overheat on the lower speeds.

12) Installation is pretty much the reverse, just watch for the edges on the heater/AC core since they can catch on the way back in. You'll also want to pour coolant/water directly into the heater core to replace any that was lost or else it'll be a bitch to bleed. I regret not doing this...

Upgrades - I pulled out some of the ducting for the footwells and cleaned that up. I also cleaned the chassis with some pontoon boat cleaner. I replaced most of the foam pieces since mine were deteriorated. I also used clear silicone to seal the seams around the plastic boxes since they were leaking out air something awful. This was probably the single biggest improvement.

Also, hooking up a heater core bypass solenoid is a massive upgrade for the summer, but that is only slightly easier now then later on.
EDIT - Step 1.5 - I didn't drain my coolant but did spill some disconnecting my hoses. I didn't see enough to say, "Damn, I should've followed Caleb's notes..." but I really didn't want to have to refill it later.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 04:12 AM
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Do the other work on the AC system while you are in there, time well spent
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 06:16 AM
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Three things to toss up on this thread, since it is reliving an old thread from way back when.

First: You can buy your own resistors from Ebay for about $2.50 each (I believe) and make your own with some soldering.

Second thing: Don't forget to do the Lotus service bulletin to your "Aluminum tub". I.E. Drill four holes in the corners of the box your a/c/heater fan unit comes out of so that it can properly drain.

Last: Why not relocate the resistor pack up higher so that next time you don't have to pull it all, if/when you need to change it again? I lengthened my wires and placed it up underneath the passenger side access panel in the front.

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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@Giantmcm

Yeah, I already had a brand new resistor sitting in front of me, otherwise, I would've made my own as you mentioned. Funny thing about the holes, they were already drilled haha I guess this "fix" wasn't really worth anything. I thought about relocating but was afraid it would get too hot without having the proper required air flow. Would you mind sharing pics of where you relocated it? I'd ask if you've had any issues with the relocation but I'm pretty sure you would've already said something if that were the case.

My [email protected] tore the inlet hose going to the assembly so I'm waiting on a new one to come in the mail...I have time to change it up if you wouldn't mind sharing your idea.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 07:16 AM
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definitely will have to wait until after winter for this
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 07:18 AM
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Hey Zak, how long did it all take? (hours)

Lotus Elise '05 Graphite Grey; Miles: 41,xxx
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZakkAttack86 View Post
@Giantmcm

Yeah, I already had a brand new resistor sitting in front of me, otherwise, I would've made my own as you mentioned. Funny thing about the holes, they were already drilled haha I guess this "fix" wasn't really worth anything. I thought about relocating but was afraid it would get too hot without having the proper required air flow. Would you mind sharing pics of where you relocated it? I'd ask if you've had any issues with the relocation but I'm pretty sure you would've already said something if that were the case.

My [email protected] tore the inlet hose going to the assembly so I'm waiting on a new one to come in the mail...I have time to change it up if you wouldn't mind sharing your idea.
I created my own resistor pack and will eventually hook up a CPU fan to it, so it doesn't rely on other airflow. Until I get around to that, I just use the full speed or off since those two settings don't use resistance.

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 10:06 AM
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If you use 100 watt vs 50 you do not need airflow
If you mount the 50 watt so they cannot touch anything plastic, I don't think it would be a problem
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 12:11 PM
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Where i won't be home anytime soon, long work day. If you remove the passenger side access panel, you will see a large pocket up towards the dashboard in there, I tucked mine in there. However I do not have the OEM setup, I have aftermarket ones with aluminum heatsinks built onto them. I honestly don't believe there will be any problems sitting up in there...but I also won't be able to test mine for awhile...cars in pieces and I won't have it back in driving order for a few months.

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-17-2017, 03:11 AM Thread Starter
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Where i won't be home anytime soon, long work day. If you remove the passenger side access panel, you will see a large pocket up towards the dashboard in there, I tucked mine in there. However I do not have the OEM setup, I have aftermarket ones with aluminum heatsinks built onto them. I honestly don't believe there will be any problems sitting up in there...but I also won't be able to test mine for awhile...cars in pieces and I won't have it back in driving order for a few months.
Say no more...I know exactly where you're talking about haha
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-17-2017, 03:20 AM Thread Starter
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Hey Zak, how long did it all take? (hours)
Well...It takes me about an hour to take the clam off now. My first time doing this took me about 3 because I was a little too careful.

After I got the clam off I'd say I spent roughly an hour unplugging everything and wiggling the assembly out. The best way I can explain how I got it out was pulling up on the assembly where it connects to the blower. Get it up as high as you can inch by inch as you move harnesses around it. Once it's almost vertical you'll start to flip it upside down. It came out almost completely upside down by the time I cleared everything.

So you're about 2 hours in then you've got to do some electrical work on the blower. I replaced the wires and connectors then sealed everything. This took me about and hour as well.

3 hour job give or take but I haven't tried to put it all back together yet haha I'm hoping to keep it under 5 hours total.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-19-2017, 05:38 AM
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Help! I've run out of four letter words to curse at this heater core. I'm moving on to compound curses.

My problem is that the heater core is somehow attached to the blower motor at the bottom edge. I cant figure out how.

I've been lifting up on the heater core near the latches and the blower motor has separated at the top, and tilted back away from the heater core maybe 3/4". However, my vertical progression with the heater core quickly stops as it feels held down by the blower motor, firmly attached at the lower surface mating the core to the blower motor.

I tried prying apart at this point and cant. There's not even play, almost like they are bolted together.

Can someone help guide me? Or at least provide some foreign-language curse words? I've exhausted the English ones.

'07 Lotus Exige S - Chili Red
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-19-2017, 07:23 AM
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There is a piece of C channel the heater box drops into on the fan. You need to pick that end up by a half inch or so and then it will be free. Then the whole box gets wiggled shimmied rotated out. I have a series of pics posted here somewhere....
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-19-2017, 07:35 AM
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https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f313...9/#post5259201

found it, removal is a reverse of installation.....
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