Blower Motor Resistor DIY w/pics - Page 6 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #101 of 113 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 10:12 AM
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Just to add some more information, I've bled the system per section KH.3 of the service manual several times. There was quite a bit of air in the system and was able to add additional coolant several times. Now the car heats up and hovers at about 200 degrees indefinitely whereas before I started bleeding the fans would be coming on. For reference its about 32 degrees outside. The radiator and all hoses that I can touch are hot except for the ones going in and out of the heater. According to the routing diagrams, water should be going through these hoses whether or not the t-stat is open or closed. I'm stumped.

Edit: Bleed it a few more times, and suddenly there was more air escaping. Heat seems to work fine now. So glad it was this and not something broken on re-assembly.

Last edited by OddManOut; 02-08-2015 at 11:50 AM.
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post #102 of 113 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 04:43 PM
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Bleeding these cars can be a process.
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post #103 of 113 (permalink) Old 02-09-2015, 06:54 AM
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Glad it's worked out OMO. I got an airlift off ebay for my next coolant change, dealing with that is too much of a pain.
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post #104 of 113 (permalink) Old 02-09-2015, 09:29 AM
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Lots of bleeding both the front and rear bleeders worked for me. It took a while....be diligent and work your way front and back.
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post #105 of 113 (permalink) Old 05-25-2015, 11:25 AM
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Use an AirLift if you just want to add coolant and be done. Since the tool will work on all of your cars, it's well worth the investment to never have trapped air in the cooling system.
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post #106 of 113 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 08:56 PM
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So I have my clam off for a crash structure repair job and decided to have a go at checking out the resistor pack. But I can't get that damned HVAC box out of there, do you have to disconnect the huge AC line on the passenger side up near the door?

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post #107 of 113 (permalink) Old 07-31-2017, 03:40 AM
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At the fender end, two big wrenches
At the heater box the small allen screw holds both the lines to the block
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post #108 of 113 (permalink) Old 07-31-2017, 05:31 AM
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I just did mine this last spring. It was easier to remove in 2 pieces.
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post #109 of 113 (permalink) Old 07-31-2017, 09:25 AM
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Yes, requires a discharge of A/C system, remove the lines going to the receiver/dryer and the HVAC box. When you replace you need new O-rings and recharge system. A considerably involved project, I suggest some reading here before proceeding so you know what you're getting into, getting everything back in place is a major PITA. The whole job makes clam off/on look simple.
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post #110 of 113 (permalink) Old 07-31-2017, 09:32 AM
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....dont forget to pressure test

Oh and I strongly suggest you pressure test the high-side up to 150/160psi before vacuuming and recharging and putting the clam back on, just a vacuum test is not sufficient. Ask me how I know
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post #111 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-05-2018, 03:46 AM
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Sooo, I have my clam off, and I noticed my fan does not work on the third setting, works for 1 and 2. Guessing its a bad connection all together because the 3rd setting should be full power no resistors.. Have not attempted this yet, do not want to unhook the ac system really, I thought a read about a work around somewhere.

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Last edited by FistHammer; 06-05-2018 at 04:19 AM.
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post #112 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-05-2018, 04:01 AM
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It is the connections that fail, not truly the resistors, there is a thread about sneaking in through the foam seal.
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post #113 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-11-2018, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exigegus View Post
It is the connections that fail, not truly the resistors, there is a thread about sneaking in through the foam seal.
I did I snuck through, anyone in the Pittsburgh area needs a surgeon take your clam off n give me a call

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/f...3/#post5853314

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