--Engine Overheating issues--
While re-charging my A/C, the engine was quickly and consistently overheating. For anyone else doing the resistor pack change themselves, make sure you bleed the air out of the engine coolant lines before recharging the A/C! It took me a while (and a lot of forum searching), but I finally figured out why there was no coolant flowing to the radiator even when the engine would reach temps of 215+ The air in my coolant lines was preventing the pump from circulating the coolant.
Here are links to a couple of VERY helpful forum topics.
Be patient while following the bleed procedure. I bled the lines several times, and the pump STILL wouldn't circulate coolant to the radiator. This had me thinking that the thermostat was bad (apparently this is even more difficult to replace than the resistor pack!) I finally found a thread instructing me to loosen the bleeder valve on the coolant header. This is not in the service notes BTW. As soon as I did this, voila, the pump began circulating coolant, the radiator became warm, and the engine temps dramatically dropped.
--On to the A/C refill--
At this point, I was finally able to recharge the system with refrigerant. I emptied an oil charge (2oz PAG46 oil + 1oz R134a), and one 12.5oz can of R134a into the system after pulling a vacuum for 30 minutes. At this point the system was pumping out 50F air at about 70F ambient temperature. I thought it should be closer to 40F coming out, so I emptied another 12.5oz can of R134a into the system. After I did this, the temperature coming out of the vents was consistently 48F. I've read in the service notes and on the forums that the system should be charged with 1.2lb to 1.5lb of refrigerant.
Did I put too much in with the second can of R134a? The low pressure gauge reads about 30psi when the A/C is running at full speed, and the high pressure gauge is a little over 200psi. When stopped, the low pressure gauge is at about ambient temperature. From what I've read, this is about normal.
--Now for the heater--
Apparently there is still air in the coolant lines in to the heat exchange box because I get no hot air coming from the vents when the heater is at full. What is the proper way to flush air out of this part of the coolant system? Is is just a matter of driving and periodically bleeding the coolant lines per the normal procedure?
Hopefully I'm about ready to close everything back up and get to driving again! This is by far the most complicated procedure I've ever performed on the Elise, and I couldn't have done it without the help of the people on this forum. You guys are awesome! THANK YOU