DIY Blower Motor Resistor Pack Replacement - Page 4 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #61 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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correct it is for heat dissapation... you could substitute a single 0.27 for the 0.22 and 0.05 but it has to be a 100W resistor... My guess is that the guy that designed the original kit had a hard time sourcing the bigger wattage resistors so he just decided to split it between two 50W resistors.
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post #62 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wdonovan View Post
Alternatively, they do list a .1 ohm and .15 ohm. These would total .25 ohms and would still be 2 res. to share power and heat. This should give slightly faster speeds 1 & 2. Am I thinking this correctly?
Yes you can do this as well... as long as the resistance is around the 0.27 it doesnt matter what the two individual resistances are... (in fact 0.1 and 0.15 would be better since the heat is dissapated more evenly...)
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post #63 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 06:34 AM
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Interestingly enough, it appears that it not generally the actual resistors that go bad, but rather the main spade terminal that the orange and red wires are attached to that corrodes/burns up.
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post #64 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Interestingly enough, it appears that it not generally the actual resistors that go bad, but rather the main spade terminal that the orange and red wires are attached to that corrodes/burns up.
Michael
Yep that was the failure point on mine too.. (although the coil resistors inside were very corroded as well..)
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post #65 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-08-2010, 01:09 PM
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Does anyone have information on what (and where to obtain) caps to place on the disconnected A/C tubing ends to prevent moisture from entering into the system? Should I attempt to find these, or would it be better to just replace the dryer before vacuuming the system and recharging?
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post #66 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-08-2010, 02:06 PM
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Does anyone have information on what (and where to obtain) caps to place on the disconnected A/C tubing ends to prevent moisture from entering into the system? Should I attempt to find these, or would it be better to just replace the dryer before vacuuming the system and recharging?
I am not an expert but did just perform this job utilizing information from this forum. The drier is only a $27 Napa part. I would definitely recommend replacing it while you're in there. I did it as last step before reinstalling the front clam.

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post #67 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-08-2010, 04:04 PM
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Does anyone have information on what (and where to obtain) caps to place on the disconnected A/C tubing ends to prevent moisture from entering into the system? Should I attempt to find these, or would it be better to just replace the dryer before vacuuming the system and recharging?
Go to any AC auto place and just ask for some caps. They have a bunch of used ones. Or just use anything you can find that won't fall in. Ziplock bags with rubber bands then replace the receiver/dryer as well.

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post #68 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-09-2010, 11:22 AM
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Thank you! I think I'm going to do both. Cap as well as order the new dryer.

On another note. I'm stuck trying to get the stupid box out so that I can remove the blower motor. I've removed the dryer by disconnecting the low pressure hoses from it. I've released the latches holding the blower motor to the A/C box. I've removed the fuse box and gotten the wires out of the way. I can pull the box up about 5 or 6 inches, but it stops there. BTW I am pulling so that the driver's side of the A/C box will be the first part to come out.

Do I need to disconnect the high pressure side from where it connects to the firewall? It seems like this will need to come off; however, I can't seem to get it loose.

Hopefully this makes sense!
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post #69 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-11-2010, 07:02 AM
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....On another note. I'm stuck trying to get the stupid box out so that I can remove the blower motor.....
The thing does not actually fit. You have to bend the large elbow for the air into the cockpit, push the plastic radiator mount a little. It will come out though. One thing I found out (may save others from the same fate). You must remove the heater hoses completely. I wanted to minimize coolant spills so I disconnected and corked the top end and left them attached to the heater. The heater did come out. But on reassembly I could not get the box back in. After removing the hoses from the heat itself, it fit easily.

One last note.... This whole project allowed me to make some important upgrades. I upgraded the paper masking tape that attached the radio antenna feed to the clamshell spine with duct tape. And in the fenders I upgraded the masking tape holding up the antennae with mechanical mounts by using the hose clamps that are glued to the fender top. Net weight gain / loss was negligible. What I shed by losing the tape in the fenders I negated by using much heavier duct tape in the spine.
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post #70 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-11-2010, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ethniccheese View Post
Thank you! I think I'm going to do both. Cap as well as order the new dryer.

On another note. I'm stuck trying to get the stupid box out so that I can remove the blower motor. I've removed the dryer by disconnecting the low pressure hoses from it. I've released the latches holding the blower motor to the A/C box. I've removed the fuse box and gotten the wires out of the way. I can pull the box up about 5 or 6 inches, but it stops there. BTW I am pulling so that the driver's side of the A/C box will be the first part to come out.

Do I need to disconnect the high pressure side from where it connects to the firewall? It seems like this will need to come off; however, I can't seem to get it loose.

Hopefully this makes sense!
What I had to do is, standing on the passenger side I pulled the drivers side of the hvac box up and towards me. I carefully rocked it back and forth until the box was completely upside down. I was able to pull it out upside down. BTW, I also reinstalled this way.

2005 StormTi, Touring Pack,Larini F1 Exhaust,Fujita Intake,Micro Mirror
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post #71 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-13-2010, 10:58 AM
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Finally!

Thanks to everyone's help, I was able to finally get that stupid box out. I've replaced the connections in the motor, ran wires up to the access panel, and connected the new resistors. I FINALLY HAVE AIR BLOWING IN THE CABIN AGAIN!

There is a small amount of air leakage around the area where the blower motor connects to the heat exchange box. I'm assuming this is normal based on the loose fitting of the two. Either way, it doesn't seem to be affecting air flow in the car much.

Time to replace the dryer, pull a vacuum, and recharge the system. One question... does anyone have part numbers for the O-Rings for the low and high pressure A/C fittings? A search of the forums hasn't turned up anything yet. Are these fairly generic? I assume that it would be best to go ahead and replace them to avoid chances of leaks forming.

Thanks again. This forum rocks, and makes me proud to be a part of such a helpful community! Off to perform some of Viper's mods now
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post #72 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-13-2010, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ethniccheese View Post
Thanks to everyone's help, I was able to finally get that stupid box out. I've replaced the connections in the motor, ran wires up to the access panel, and connected the new resistors. I FINALLY HAVE AIR BLOWING IN THE CABIN AGAIN!

There is a small amount of air leakage around the area where the blower motor connects to the heat exchange box. I'm assuming this is normal based on the loose fitting of the two. Either way, it doesn't seem to be affecting air flow in the car much.

Time to replace the dryer, pull a vacuum, and recharge the system. One question... does anyone have part numbers for the O-Rings for the low and high pressure A/C fittings? A search of the forums hasn't turned up anything yet. Are these fairly generic? I assume that it would be best to go ahead and replace them to avoid chances of leaks forming.

Thanks again. This forum rocks, and makes me proud to be a part of such a helpful community! Off to perform some of Viper's mods now
Congrats man! I was in the same boat as you over Labor Day weekend. I had no idea how I was going to get that hvac box out. In fact I had given up for the evening after trying for a couple hours. The next morning, I had it out in 10 minutes. My new dryer came with a couple extra O-rings so I used those but I'm not sure where you'd get new ones.

Of course, now I broke my shifter cable yesterday so I'm down and out again!

2005 StormTi, Touring Pack,Larini F1 Exhaust,Fujita Intake,Micro Mirror
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post #73 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-13-2010, 11:18 AM
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If now possible, I would suggest sealing up that air leak as it will make the system run more efficiently.
Michael

Quote:
Originally Posted by ethniccheese View Post
There is a small amount of air leakage around the area where the blower motor connects to the heat exchange box. I'm assuming this is normal based on the loose fitting of the two. Either way, it doesn't seem to be affecting air flow in the car much.

Off to perform some of Viper's mods now
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post #74 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-13-2010, 12:27 PM
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The more I think about it, I think you're right. My dryer doesn't arrive until tomorrow, so I'm going to pull the blower motor back out and try to get a better seal.
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post #75 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-13-2010, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ethniccheese View Post
Time to replace the dryer, pull a vacuum, and recharge the system. One question... does anyone have part numbers for the O-Rings for the low and high pressure A/C fittings? A search of the forums hasn't turned up anything yet. Are these fairly generic? I assume that it would be best to go ahead and replace them to avoid chances of leaks forming.
Yes, you should always replace the O-rings whenever you open up the A/C system and/or replace a component. They are generic as far as the sizes go, but they need to be resistant to refrigerant oil so hardware store O-rings will not work. If you have an auto repair shop nearby that services A/C systems they will have an O-ring kit with various sized O-rings in it. Just take along your old ones so they can match them up with correctly sized new ones. Make sure to lubricate them with fresh refrigerant oil before installing them and you should be good to go.
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post #76 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-18-2010, 01:26 PM
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Where to add a/c refrigerant oil

This may be a stupid question, but I haven't been able to find a consistent answer anywhere. The Lotus Service Notes say to add 30cm3 of refrigerant oil if you replace the dryer and 10cm3 if you replace a major hose. I have purchased the correct refrigerant oil, but I can't figure out how to add it.

Do I need a refrigerant oil injector tool? Can I add it directly to the receiver-drier somehow before installing?
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post #77 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-18-2010, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ethniccheese View Post
This may be a stupid question, but I haven't been able to find a consistent answer anywhere. The Lotus Service Notes say to add 30cm3 of refrigerant oil if you replace the dryer and 10cm3 if you replace a major hose. I have purchased the correct refrigerant oil, but I can't figure out how to add it.

Do I need a refrigerant oil injector tool? Can I add it directly to the receiver-drier somehow before installing?
When I installed the A/C system in my pickup truck I simply injected the correct amount of refrigerant oil using a syringe onto one of the condenser fittings right before I installed the hose, so I don't see why you couldn't just put it into one of the hoses before you attach it to the dryer. 30 ml is not much oil so it should be easy enough to do. BTW, the A/C in that truck is still working perfectly after 12 years and has never needed any repair so I know this works.
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post #78 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 07:59 AM
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Lessons learned and questions from resistor pack fix

--Engine Overheating issues--
While re-charging my A/C, the engine was quickly and consistently overheating. For anyone else doing the resistor pack change themselves, make sure you bleed the air out of the engine coolant lines before recharging the A/C! It took me a while (and a lot of forum searching), but I finally figured out why there was no coolant flowing to the radiator even when the engine would reach temps of 215+ The air in my coolant lines was preventing the pump from circulating the coolant.

Here are links to a couple of VERY helpful forum topics.
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f311...coolant-81698/
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f291...coolant-81955/
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f101...06/index2.html

Be patient while following the bleed procedure. I bled the lines several times, and the pump STILL wouldn't circulate coolant to the radiator. This had me thinking that the thermostat was bad (apparently this is even more difficult to replace than the resistor pack!) I finally found a thread instructing me to loosen the bleeder valve on the coolant header. This is not in the service notes BTW. As soon as I did this, voila, the pump began circulating coolant, the radiator became warm, and the engine temps dramatically dropped.

--On to the A/C refill--
At this point, I was finally able to recharge the system with refrigerant. I emptied an oil charge (2oz PAG46 oil + 1oz R134a), and one 12.5oz can of R134a into the system after pulling a vacuum for 30 minutes. At this point the system was pumping out 50F air at about 70F ambient temperature. I thought it should be closer to 40F coming out, so I emptied another 12.5oz can of R134a into the system. After I did this, the temperature coming out of the vents was consistently 48F. I've read in the service notes and on the forums that the system should be charged with 1.2lb to 1.5lb of refrigerant.

Did I put too much in with the second can of R134a? The low pressure gauge reads about 30psi when the A/C is running at full speed, and the high pressure gauge is a little over 200psi. When stopped, the low pressure gauge is at about ambient temperature. From what I've read, this is about normal.

--Now for the heater--
Apparently there is still air in the coolant lines in to the heat exchange box because I get no hot air coming from the vents when the heater is at full. What is the proper way to flush air out of this part of the coolant system? Is is just a matter of driving and periodically bleeding the coolant lines per the normal procedure?


Hopefully I'm about ready to close everything back up and get to driving again! This is by far the most complicated procedure I've ever performed on the Elise, and I couldn't have done it without the help of the people on this forum. You guys are awesome! THANK YOU
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post #79 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 08:57 AM
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--Now for the heater--
Apparently there is still air in the coolant lines in to the heat exchange box because I get no hot air coming from the vents when the heater is at full. What is the proper way to flush air out of this part of the coolant system? Is is just a matter of driving and periodically bleeding the coolant lines per the normal procedure? There are two bleed valves, one on the radiator output hose on the right side and one on the heater return on the left of the engine.

Last edited by SirLotus; 10-20-2010 at 09:09 AM.
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post #80 of 169 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 10:10 AM
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I used both valves when bleeding the coolant lines and was able to get a steady stream of coolant out of both. I'm guessing that since the coolant is always flowing through the heater core that I need to bleed more out of the engine bleeder. Will the air eventually make its way out of the heater core and back to this spot? Do I need to pressurise the system for this to happen, or will it naturally work its way there?
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