DIY Blower Motor Resistor Pack Replacement - Page 5 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #81 of 169 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 03:57 PM
Registered User
 
Sunnie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 287
In the middle of doing this and have come to a stand still. Trying to remove the HVAC box and it's not moving. The motor is attached with clips at the top and the lower half is just a groove that it sits in, correct? Everything is loose. All the heater core lines are off, the AC dryer is removed, wiring is out of the way. The top half of blower motor is un-clipped and loose. The entire assymbly can be moved left to right at least an inch. Is the motor glued or something to the HVAC box? Any advice will help.

A wise man once said "All you need is what's around you" Well, when I looked around I saw a pimp with a shiny pair of shoes and a 49 Mercury!
Sunnie is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #82 of 169 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 04:30 PM
Registered User
 
SirLotus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Delray Beach FL
Posts: 6,928
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunnie View Post
In the middle of doing this and have come to a stand still. Trying to remove the HVAC box and it's not moving. The motor is attached with clips at the top and the lower half is just a groove that it sits in, correct? Everything is loose. All the heater core lines are off, the AC dryer is removed, wiring is out of the way. The top half of blower motor is un-clipped and loose. The entire assymbly can be moved left to right at least an inch. Is the motor glued or something to the HVAC box? Any advice will help.
Maybe this will help Resistor pack - SELOC TechWiki
Cheers,
Michael
SirLotus is offline  
post #83 of 169 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 06:58 PM
Relapsing Honda fan
 
yellow99s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Phoenix Arizona
Posts: 1,259
I just did mine today, you have to slide your hand between the box and blower and rip the box upward with all your might. Once it pops free, you need to rotate it upside down to get it out. The box will need to be upside down when you reassemble it. Putting it back in is the hard part, I ended up standing on mine out of frustration and resentment, after a few jumps it fell into place.
yellow99s is offline  
 
post #84 of 169 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 07:45 PM
Registered User
 
Sunnie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 287
Thanks, that link helped. Looks the same as mine but driver is on the wrong side!......joking of course! Haven't had time to finish yet but will get to it within the week.

A wise man once said "All you need is what's around you" Well, when I looked around I saw a pimp with a shiny pair of shoes and a 49 Mercury!
Sunnie is offline  
post #85 of 169 (permalink) Old 01-17-2011, 07:19 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 11
Well, add me to the club. Got sick of driving like Ace Ventura so I tackled this yesterday.

Clam was off in about 1.5 hours (including lifting the car twice because I forgot to loosen the lug bolts the first time). About 3 hours of wrestling with the box, including a lot of beer/temper breaks, and another 1.5 putting everything back together.

Pulling the heater box out sure is a pain. First I took open the two suitcase latches and then disconnected everything - including taking the coolant tubes off at BOTH ends. The job gets a lot less frustrating by taking a few extra minutes to get every possible thing out of the way.

Once I found the right way to do it, it did *not* take a whole bunch of force. This is a very tight squeeze in the fore-aft axis and some plastic needs to be pulled or wedged. But in the rotating and pulling it out axis (you pull up on the driver's side of the box while moving the whole thing towards the driver's side), it was fairly easy once I found the way. Same for the way back in. This might not make sense for anyone else, but for me, instead of seating the passenger side all the way and then trying to rotate it down, I had to make the thing horizontal a little bit *before* it went all the way down into its home. So I hovered it down, made it horizontal a little bit *before* it bottomed, and then it dropped right in.

The first time I installed it some of my shenanigans pulled out the connectors at the resistor pack, so when I buttoned everything up I found the fan didn't work. I recommend plugging it up and testing as soon as you get the heater box into its final place but before reinstalling anything else.
Micah is offline  
post #86 of 169 (permalink) Old 09-21-2011, 05:25 AM
Registered User
 
DealsGapCobra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 273
Great information here. I am considering replacing my resistor pack simply to increase the increment in fan speed. To me, setting #1 is far too high so I am thinking about increasing the size of the resistors. Has anyone tried this? I am thinking replacing the two (0.05+0.22) resistors with a single one around .5 ohm which would make the new #2 setting like the stock #1. Then if the other 0.27 was replaced with another 0.5, setting #1 should be quite a bit lower.

After realizing the work involved I am not sure I want to do this just to "see" how it works. What about adding some 0.27 resistors in the "supply" lines going to the stock resistor pack?

Thoughts?
DealsGapCobra is offline  
post #87 of 169 (permalink) Old 09-21-2011, 06:36 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Woodlands Tx
Posts: 2,360
Quote:
Originally Posted by DealsGapCobra View Post
Great information here. I am considering replacing my resistor pack simply to increase the increment in fan speed. To me, setting #1 is far too high so I am thinking about increasing the size of the resistors. Has anyone tried this? I am thinking replacing the two (0.05+0.22) resistors with a single one around .5 ohm which would make the new #2 setting like the stock #1. Then if the other 0.27 was replaced with another 0.5, setting #1 should be quite a bit lower.

After realizing the work involved I am not sure I want to do this just to "see" how it works. What about adding some 0.27 resistors in the "supply" lines going to the stock resistor pack?

Thoughts?

I can't imagine you would want to do this for your desired effect. Hell I only have the highest speed because I bypassed the pack. If I want a little less air I just direct some of the flow to my feet. It really is a terrible job to get to the pack and then put everything back.

The harness to the pack is accesible from the top, maybe even through the access pannels. I think you could put an inline resistor there and lower the speed of all your settings. Perhaps without even removing the clam shell.

Seriously, my car is small
07 Exige-S, "Landshark"
05 Saffron Yellow "bumbleBee", on to a new owner
Also:
84 930 turbo, 06 WRX Wagon
aschen is offline  
post #88 of 169 (permalink) Old 09-21-2011, 07:27 AM
Registered User
 
DealsGapCobra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 273
Maybe I should let you know that first, the Elise is my DD and second, until I read this thread I had no idea how much work was involved in accessing the resistor pack. At this point I guess I am just getting a plan if my resistors need to be replaced or if I can use the add-on method.
DealsGapCobra is offline  
post #89 of 169 (permalink) Old 11-22-2011, 11:04 AM
Registered User
 
Surferjer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 9,150
My last resister (speed one) is gone. Never removed the front clam, sounds like I have a big project ahead of me.

Jer
2006 Elise
2014 RAM 3500 DIESEL 4 X 4
2013 Jeep wrangler
1996 Miata race car
Surferjer is offline  
post #90 of 169 (permalink) Old 11-22-2011, 11:15 AM
Registered User
 
dbisbee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 527
Having done the blower motor bit and removed my clam more than twice. Let me know if I can help.

I didn't stay at a Holiday inn but I do live really close to one!

Good luck!

The word "PASSION" should aways be uppercase.

#349 '05 AS Elise Touring, Hardtop, Starshield, Plinth delete, GPS Garmin 680, V1, V1 mirror, Leather console, Multivex, Alpine CDA9887, JL stealthbox, Focals, Alpine PDX 5, HID, RAC Monolites, R888's, Stage II, Front Slotted rotors, R4-S pads, Stebel nautilus, TitanQR, RLS Phone Mount, and Odyssey 925 now with bracket.
dbisbee is offline  
post #91 of 169 (permalink) Old 11-22-2011, 11:35 AM
Registered User
 
Surferjer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 9,150
Thanks! I'm reading I should check my switch first. Pardon my ignorance, but what is it and how do i check it? If the clam has to come off to check it, I might as well do the resisters at the same time.

Is there a good thread on removing the front clam?

I also have significant bottom front clam damage which I'm sure will be easier to glass in while it's off the car. And I need to drill the drain holes and probably pull and service the radiator while I'm at it. Sigh. Looks like Liz will be in my garage disassembled for a while.

Jer
2006 Elise
2014 RAM 3500 DIESEL 4 X 4
2013 Jeep wrangler
1996 Miata race car
Surferjer is offline  
post #92 of 169 (permalink) Old 11-22-2011, 11:51 AM
Registered User
 
dbisbee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 527
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surferjer View Post
Thanks! I'm reading I should check my switch first. Pardon my ignorance, but what is it and how do i check it? If the clam has to come off to check it, I might as well do the resisters at the same time.

Is there a good thread on removing the front clam?

I also have significant bottom front clam damage which I'm sure will be easier to glass in while it's off the car. And I need to drill the drain holes and probably pull and service the radiator while I'm at it. Sigh. Looks like Liz will be in my garage disassembled for a while.
The switch is the fan position switch on the a/c heater panel in the dash interior of the car. You can take the switch out and check it or you can remove the switch and short the wires that are the farthest apart and the fan should work if the problem is indeed the switch (unlikely). Should not be very scary no shock voltages really present at that point and the worse you could do is blow a fuse. The ignition switch needs to be on for the fan to run. It most likely is the resistor pack on the motor.

The word "PASSION" should aways be uppercase.

#349 '05 AS Elise Touring, Hardtop, Starshield, Plinth delete, GPS Garmin 680, V1, V1 mirror, Leather console, Multivex, Alpine CDA9887, JL stealthbox, Focals, Alpine PDX 5, HID, RAC Monolites, R888's, Stage II, Front Slotted rotors, R4-S pads, Stebel nautilus, TitanQR, RLS Phone Mount, and Odyssey 925 now with bracket.
dbisbee is offline  
post #93 of 169 (permalink) Old 11-23-2011, 08:05 AM
Registered User
 
kbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Posts: 341
Wow, lots of good info in this thread.

What are the symptoms when the resistors fail? Is the fan completely off? My fan makes a loud vibrating noise and does not move any air. I had assumed that something fell in through the air vents and is obstructing the blades; could it be a failed resistor instead?

Thanks.

I have it! (5/6/2006) 2005 CO, LSS, Touring, hard top.
kbob is offline  
post #94 of 169 (permalink) Old 11-23-2011, 10:34 AM
Registered User
 
SirLotus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Delray Beach FL
Posts: 6,928
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbob View Post
Wow, lots of good info in this thread.

What are the symptoms when the resistors fail? Is the fan completely off? My fan makes a loud vibrating noise and does not move any air. I had assumed that something fell in through the air vents and is obstructing the blades; could it be a failed resistor instead?

Thanks.
Actually, it is not normally the resistors that fail, but rather the wiring terminals get corroded and stop conducting. Sometimes all the speeds stop working and other times only one or two. It does sound like maybe the motor has failed or jammed.
Michael
SirLotus is offline  
post #95 of 169 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 11:54 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 17
Greetings All,
Why not just wire the resistors in behind the heater switch and avoid pulling AC unit. If the direct connection(hi-speed) still works effect should be the same.
steve shapiro is offline  
post #96 of 169 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 01:12 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Woodlands Tx
Posts: 2,360
It is in effect impossible to do that. Its hard to describe without a diagram, but the pack is inline with the motor's hot terminal. There is no direct line to the motor that can be accesed without pulling out everything.

Seriously, my car is small
07 Exige-S, "Landshark"
05 Saffron Yellow "bumbleBee", on to a new owner
Also:
84 930 turbo, 06 WRX Wagon
aschen is offline  
post #97 of 169 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 03:53 PM
Registered User
 
SirLotus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Delray Beach FL
Posts: 6,928
Because the wiring that is needed to bypass the resistor pack is down by the blower motor, at the resistor pack.
Michael
SirLotus is offline  
post #98 of 169 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 09:20 PM
Registered User
 
kbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Posts: 341
steve_shapiro has a point, though. If you move the resistor pack inside, you won't have to pull the clam/radiator again in three more years.

I have it! (5/6/2006) 2005 CO, LSS, Touring, hard top.
kbob is offline  
post #99 of 169 (permalink) Old 12-29-2011, 03:06 AM
Registered User
 
SirLotus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Delray Beach FL
Posts: 6,928
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbob View Post
steve_shapiro has a point, though. If you move the resistor pack inside, you won't have to pull the clam/radiator again in three more years.
Because the resistors get hot and need to be in a moving airflow to extend their life.
Michael
SirLotus is offline  
post #100 of 169 (permalink) Old 12-29-2011, 04:46 AM
Moderator Extraordinaire!
 
tesprit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sharpsburg, GA
Posts: 2,843
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirLotus View Post
Because the resistors get hot and need to be in a moving airflow to extend their life.
Michael
+1 The resistors for car fan motors are normally installed in the air ducting that brings cool air to the fan motor before the air is heated or cooled by the cores. They look like coils of wire and some even glow like the elements in your toaster when used. If you were to simply mount them outside of the airflow they would overheat and burn out. I'm sure it is possible to purchase a resistor with a built in heat sink, but it would be large and you would need a couple or them for the different intermediate fan speeds so they would take up a lot of space wherever you mounted them. I'm not saying it would be impossible to do this, just very difficult with the restricted unused space in a Lotus and they would be more prone to failure than the originals.
tesprit is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community > Lotus Discussions > A/C, Heating and Ventilation

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 7 (0 members and 7 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome