DIY Blower Motor Resistor Pack Replacement - Page 8 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #141 of 169 (permalink) Old 06-20-2014, 12:00 PM
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Just for information, it is not usually the resistors that go bad, but rather the terminals that corrode.
Additionally, there is a method to bypass the resistor pack with a little cutting, and the clam is not removed.
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post #142 of 169 (permalink) Old 06-26-2014, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doge View Post
Did you replace all the o-rings on the lines that were removed and lube them prior to install?
I replaced them with the ones that came with the drier, but I didn't lubricate them.
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post #143 of 169 (permalink) Old 08-06-2014, 01:13 PM
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As my contribution to this helpful thread, here are some pointers I donít recall seeing and wish Iíd known before I started.

1. When removing the front clam, do your best to capture the shims on the two bolts that fasten the clam to the quarter panel in front of the door (BEFORE YOU PULL THE CLAM LOOSE), so they can go back exactly the way they went in or, worse, so you donít have to remove the quarter panel when some shims fall inside of it. Leave the back screw in place, just loose, as it is almost impossible to get it started in the tight confines adjacent to the hinge.
2. This web site (mentioned above, too) has helpful steps and photos Resistor pack - TechWiki
3. I built a replacement resistor set (and got the resistors on Amazon for about $20!) on a piece of sheet aluminum much like pictured in the posts above, and I bolted that sheet to a thread-sert already in the chassis (near and below the fuse box) so that the sheet and chassis could serve as an ample heat sink. I was not a fan of putting them in the HVAC airflow as the A/C is already a bit anemic in Texas heat. I tested this and on the medium setting, my infrared pyrometer showed them getting up to about 180 deg F. I doubt that will hurt them, but do make sure they touch nothing else.
4. Attach a string securely to the evaporator box plastic drain hose (it sticks out just behind the lower front control arm) because it is likely to get pulled into the chassis when you remove the box with evaporator and heater core. Also, donít forget to re-attach this drain hose to the bottom of the evap/heater core box when you reinstall it. Then use your string to incrementally pull the hose back into place as you lower the box, so there will be no kinks in the hose and the condensation will properly drain from the box.
5. Do not have small children around when re-installing the box and fan assembly unless you have never sworn in your life Ė and you still may utter a few epithets in this rubikís cube process, especially if you forgot to reconnect the hose in 4 above and have to take the *&*#@@$ thing back out again.
6. I put new putty around all of the refrigerant and other lines coming into the box before reinstalling it.
7. I used a funnel and hose to pre-fill the heater core before re-attaching the heater hoses in the hope that would simplify cooling system bleed. I think it helped.
8. Read the Lotus A/C section from the official service manual as it has key info on how everything works, o-ring sizes (replace them on the lines you separate), type and amount of refrigerant and refrigerant oil. You should really not be DIY-ing on this car without this manual!
9. I found it hard to precisely measure the amount of R134a added (e.g. hoses are connected to the can when charging, affecting the perceive tare), so I also checked pressures and outlet temp. I saw a high side pressure of about 260 psi and outlet temp of 55 deg F with ambient temp about 82 deg F and the top off and doors open and based on this and the amount of R134a I seemed to have fed, called it good. Low side pressure was nice and low, I canít recall now but something like 30 psi, so I considered the system at least not overcharged.
10. I donít know about you, but I had a bumper crop of dead bugs and leaves in all kinds of nooks and crannies, so look around carefully and vacuum that detritus now as you canít get to it later.
11. Get everything in the HVAC system up and running before reinstalling the clam, including testing the fan speeds, how hot your resistor pack gets, whether the door between the evaporator core and heater core cycles (the stepper motor wires are pretty fragile and could be damaged when wedging the damned box back in place), and if time permits wait a day to be sure you have no refrigerant leaks before the clam reinstall.
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post #144 of 169 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 02:29 PM
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Thought I would chime in since I just finished up my fix for the resistor pack. Kverges has a lot of good info, here are my 2c adds:

1) Totally wish I noticed the screws on the rear most part of the clam didn't have to come all the way out before removing. Ditto on the little U shaped shims.
2 & 3) I was underwhelmed with settings 1 and 2 through the resistor pack. I jumpered settings 1(L) and 2(M) to the large Green Yellow gauge wire 3 (H). Then after the 4 pin connector I pulled new 12awg wire opposite the Green Yellow pin to the positive of the fan. Bypassing the use of the L and M wire connections. FWIW: Non contact Amp draw measurement on the 14V bench supply showed an 18A draw for the blower. I took apart the resistor pack, removing the corroded and melted mess, and then just used the piece that connected to the blower to cover the hole (meant for cooling the resistors) in the blower. I am happy with this setup, foot and defog mode blow a great amount of air, face setting is 'meh', probably due to the restrictive nature of the tubes going to the four outputs.
4) Yes, I cut a slice about an inch up in the hose and put a long zip-tie through it so I could pull the hose back after connecting it to the bottom of the evaporator box.
5) Yes, a lot of swearing. I kicked myself a bit into it after I finally noticed that the passenger side of the evap box sits on a shelf and not all the way down into the well. After realizing this, getting the box in and out was not that bad.
6)-11) ditto.

FWIW: The dealership 'had' performed the 'recall' drain hole modification, but neglected to actually drill through both sides of the sandwiched aluminum panel, so if you think you had that recall done, you may want to check their work.

Thanks and good luck.
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post #145 of 169 (permalink) Old 09-03-2014, 09:27 PM
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I am at the point where I have the HVAC box ready to go back in but I can not find the drain hose outlet. I see where it goes back in but I can not seem to find where it comes out under the car. Anyone have a pic ?

In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is. - Yogi Berra -

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post #146 of 169 (permalink) Old 09-04-2014, 08:37 AM
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Passenger side.

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post #147 of 169 (permalink) Old 09-04-2014, 09:57 AM
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grazie

In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is. - Yogi Berra -

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post #148 of 169 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 06:36 AM
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'06 Exige here, thus clam removal needed. Galpin Lotus did it for me for ~2350 (cost includes including the resistor pack). They left a hose end-cap on my radiator (inside the clam), seemed to have dented my radiator (the very visible radiator in front of the the windshield) while leaning over the car, and re-installed one headlight incorrectly. Their service manager essentially called me crazy because they are "highly trained" and thus can't make mistakes. He thought I would be happy with 10% off a future service (as if I would go back), but none of the staff apologized. I am going through senior management now.

Edit: I am punishing myself for not making this a winter project.

Special thanks to this thread for confirming the symptoms of a degrading resistor pack: intermittent fans, one fan speed dying before another.

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Last edited by Im_Not_In_San_Fran; 11-01-2015 at 07:20 AM.
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post #149 of 169 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 06:45 AM
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Damn, that sucks. That's the quality of work when I did this job myself. I'm not much of a mechanic(obviously) but when I did this same job, it took me 2 weekends and I dented my radiator, and also had to go back in and correct a headlight. Highly trained! LOL I also deleted my resistor pack and only have fan speed, high but did relocate the wires to the top in case I ever wanted to install one in a different location.
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post #150 of 169 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 09:13 AM
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I have a question about this, I assuemed that I had a resistor pack problem as I just lost my #3 fan setting, is it possible that it is something else then as I just read above that the #3 doesn't use a resistor?

Thanks
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post #151 of 169 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfennell View Post
I have a question about this, I assuemed that I had a resistor pack problem as I just lost my #3 fan setting, is it possible that it is something else then as I just read above that the #3 doesn't use a resistor?
Thanks

I lost speed 3 first, then speeds 1 and 2 simultaneously. I suggest just waiting until you lose more speeds, and this will be your full confirmation.

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post #152 of 169 (permalink) Old 01-27-2016, 10:13 AM
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I just pulled mine out of my 07 Exige, and realized that the whole heater unit is exposed to the weather. well, duh, wonder why the wiring gets wet.

I am going to try larger resistors, since my math tells me 50 watts is too small without the fan blowing on them, and why have hot resistors in you AC plenum?

If someone's measured 18 amps is correct, over 250 watts, then even with the resistors it is seeing over 100 watts, so not wonder those connections vaporized
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post #153 of 169 (permalink) Old 01-27-2016, 11:42 AM
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I just realized after reading this that I may have a different problem, ONLY #3 doesn't work on my car, is this possibly a resistor problem? 1 and 2 still work. I will have the clam off anyways so I will replace these, but if there is something else I should do I would like to do it!

OMG I already read this thread once and made the exact same question 3 posts up Jesus, I am going to leave this here in shame.
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post #154 of 169 (permalink) Old 01-28-2016, 04:06 AM
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I suppose it could be the same thing, but what I have seen pictured, and what happened to mine, is the main fan motor wire rots off of the resistor pack, maybe your high speed wire rotted off first.

Only alternative is the switch, so you could ohm out the wires coming off of the switch, if you can see resistance to ground then the wiring is good. Or you could swap the wires around since the lower speeds work.

Odds are its the resistor pack tho
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post #155 of 169 (permalink) Old 01-28-2016, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfennell View Post
I just realized after reading this that I may have a different problem, ONLY #3 doesn't work on my car, is this possibly a resistor problem? 1 and 2 still work. I will have the clam off anyways so I will replace these, but if there is something else I should do I would like to do it!

OMG I already read this thread once and made the exact same question 3 posts up Jesus, I am going to leave this here in shame.
This is usually how it starts. And eventually you will lose all the speeds.
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post #156 of 169 (permalink) Old 02-24-2016, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by rob13572468 View Post
This is the replacement resistor pack and the other pic are the individual resistors. The part is literally just the resistors mounted to a plate but otherwise its the exact same. The resistor values are 0.05, 0.22, and 0.27 ohms at 50 watts and the parts are available thru mouser (Mouser Electronics - Electronic Component Distributor)

284-HS50-0.05
284-HS50-0.22
284-HS50-0.27

They currently list at $4.70 each so thats $14.10 US for all three.
Could you explain the little clamps that seem to connect each of the resistors together? Sorry, Im a newb.
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post #157 of 169 (permalink) Old 02-24-2016, 08:19 AM
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Could you explain the little clamps that seem to connect each of the resistors together? Sorry, Im a newb.
I just soldered a piece of wire on them to connect the resistor ends.
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post #158 of 169 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 09:44 AM
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Hey guys after a few days deciding which route to take with the resistors, I just ordered some new resistors to replace the old ones. I noticed that some of the other ones listed are no longer available. I didn't want to go with double the ohms for fan speed 3 because its already slow enough, so I found a same ohm and watt rating resistor plus it seems to possible be of slightly better quality. It isn't domestically made but then again neither is almost anything nowadays relative to the USA. ANYWAY, here is the replacement resistor that I believe is perfectly exchangeable for the no longer available other .05 ohm resistor.

(The new .05 ohm 50 watt chassis mount(slightly different block design but correct specs and still mountable))
THS50R05J TE Connectivity / CGS | Mouser
RoHS: Compliant1
279-THS50R05J
THS50R05J
0.05 Ohms 50W 50PPM 03/22/16 1 3.91

And here are the other ones that are still available:

HS50 R22 J ARCOL / Ohmite | Mouser
RoHS: Compliant1
284-HS50-0.22
HS50 R22 J
50W .22 OHM 5% 03/22/16 1 3.75

HS50 R27 J ARCOL / Ohmite | Mouser
RoHS: Compliant1
284-HS50-0.27
HS50 R27 J
50W 0.27 OHM 5% 03/22/16 1 3.75


They carry them in stock and with USPS priority it usually ships same day before 12:01PM almost anywhere with 2 days transit for 7.99.(best deal to go with) CALL them direct if you like, it was easier and faster for me.
Contact Mouser (USA) (800) 346-6873


Merchandise Total $11.41
Shipping $7.99 Priority Mail w/ Tracker
Tax $0.00
TOTAL $19.40

Last edited by Michael here; 03-22-2016 at 01:35 PM. Reason: Cleaned up post
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post #159 of 169 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016, 03:27 PM
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WOW, thanks for the post. I was flipping out because I couldn't find the lower ohm part!
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post #160 of 169 (permalink) Old 05-07-2016, 04:52 PM
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So my A/C blower began working intermittently recently. It was an all or nothing sort of deal, but I figured since my car sits out side and is now 11 years old it must be this corrosion issue every one else is having/has had.

I decided to get in there and replace and upgrade it all with new fancy 50w resistors I bought off mouser. And while I'm in there, aluminum radiator, and SS brake lines. yay.

So I get the clam pulled off, and the brake lines replaced while having my sexy assistant (wife) pull the rear under tray and drain the oil. I pulled the radiator and A/C condenser, which was supper easy because the last person cross threaded the crap out of the condenser fittings. So now I have to get the fittings repaired. yipee. Finally got in there and deep enough to get the HVAC box out of there and the blower motor, after drowning it all in coolant from pulling the heater core hoses.

So here is where it gets fun. I'm poking around looking for the resistor pack, slightly baffled because my blower motor has only two wires rather than the 4 I'd expect. It turns out all of this has already been replaced at some point. There are fancy 50w resistors inside the HVAC box, and a new connector that goes to the blower motor, and a big sticker on the blower motor that says "genuine Lotus replacement part". fancy that. It has been done already. So I inspect all the wiring checking for corrosion, or anything else that could cause the issue now that I've dedicated 5 hours of "getting intimate with the front of my car" to. Nothing. Everything looks perfect. Except for the A/C condenser fittings that look like my dog chewed on them for 20 minutes.

So, does anyone have any ideas? What could cause my blower to be intermittent? Do I need to check anything else while I'm in there? I've had the car the last 10k of 50k miles and this just started happening. I have a couple days because I can't get that condenser fixed till Monday.

Anyway, fun continues tomorrow. Gotta re assemble what I can, and install the DSBrace from sector 111.
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