HEATER PROBLEM - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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HEATER PROBLEM

Guys. I have a 2002 Elise 111S.

Although my heater control is usually always set to cold ( blue ), sometimes the interior of the car gets really hot like the heater is stuck on warm. It is very temporamental, and happens without warning nor reason. The heat seems to come from the footwell area.

I was thinking maybe a thermostat or matrix problem, but I have no idea. I live in Spain and it is not great when suddenly hot air comes from the footwell area in the middle os summer!
Any ideas??

Thanks in advance
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 05:35 PM
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I've got the same issue...sometimes. If I turn on the heater (i.e. twist the temperature control from full-cold) I get nice hot air but when I want to turn it off, the control is full-cold but hot air continues to come out of the vents. If I fiddle with the temp control knob for a while, the hot air ceases.

I believe there's something going on with the flap that blanks off the (always active) heater core from the blower box. It's obviously driven electrically (a motor winds in & out to either open or close the flap). What I don't know is if the motor is playing up or if it's a fault with the temp control knob.

As I live in Australia, I don't need the heater very often & leave it on full-cold in case I can't turn the damn heat off! :-)

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 07:04 PM
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The two actuators in the air system are prone to failure. The actuator that controls air temperature can either fail, or the flap binds (mine binds). It can be intermittent. I finally disconnected the actuator control wire (near the front fuse box), moved it by hand to the full heat position (there is a big air hose in the center front of the car you disconnect to get access), and installed the Tony Waa heater core coolant valve kit (search for it at this forum). I also made my own electronic switch to control the valve from the regular heater knob. Note that when the flap is in the full heat postion, the air flow is over both the air conditioning core and the heater core. Hifiandmtb, this really seems like the problem you have.

The other actuator controls which vents the air goes to (floor, upper, defrost).

Markirlanda, you may have both of these problems. When it happens again, test that the vent actuator is properly switching the airflow, then see if the hot air follows the vent selection. If the vent selection works properly (and not just partially - that is, the flap doesn't fully go into a postion), yet the hot air still comes out near the floor, then I don't know what your problem is.

Of course, the inner sides of the chassis in the footwell sometimes get hot in the summer due to the coolant lines running through there.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 07:29 PM
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As usual, this forum is a font of information - very much appreciated, Chris! So you don't rely on the flap any more - you now have the ability to stop coolant flow through the heater core.

As long as I'm able to close my flap (even by doing it manually under the inspection panel) I'm happy...really, I don't see myself using the heater that often. But, having more effective a/c would be nice...

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Last edited by hifiandmtb; 04-05-2011 at 07:35 PM.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-06-2011, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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HEATER PROBLEM

Thanks Chris
Can you tell me how to get access to the flap? I have not worked much on the Elise and I am quite new to this model.

The strange thing is that if I drive around quite normal I donīt seem to get this problem, however after gunning it a few times it seems to release the heat from the footwell area. It is temporamental though.

I will take a look this weekend. Car is going in for a service but Iīd rather try and fix this myself without being stung by the garage especially if itīs and easy fix.
cheers
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-06-2011, 03:25 AM
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Quote:
...Tony Waa heater core coolant valve kit (search for it at this forum)...
Info's in there - it's an interesting read.

ex- 2010 Lotus Evora Starlight Black 6-speed manual
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 06:17 AM
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Hi Guys,

Ive only had my Elise a week now and noticed the similar issues as mentioned above.

The directional flaps seem to be working well and so does the fan, Im having an issue with the air temperature. What ever position the temperature control dial is at the temperature stays the same. At cold the temp isnt as cold as you would expect though I believe I have read up on this anyhow (head from radiator being drawn into cabin?)

I really do not fancy modding the car at this stage. I have a warranty for the next 12 months but wondering if this actuator could be a 'quick' replacement or does it need to go into the garage?

Cheers

Aylward )
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 07:03 AM
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Any air issues on these cars and you'll probably want to take it in, although, the heater bypass is more of a design issue than a real "problem." If your flaps aren't moving, certainly, take it in. If they are and the performance is not great, you may want to start tweaking it yourself What year is your car dipper? There are some changes made to the design that could use some tweaks, possibly.

Also, check out this for how to wrap the cooling duct as your heat may not come from the heater but more of heat soak.

Improved Ac

That helps a lot.

If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dipper84 View Post
Hi Guys,
The directional flaps seem to be working well and so does the fan, Im having an issue with the air temperature. What ever position the temperature control dial is at the temperature stays the same. At cold the temp isnt as cold as you would expect though I believe I have read up on this anyhow (head from radiator being drawn into cabin?)...
Your description of the temperature behaviour sounds like the heater core air flow flap isn't working (not the interior vent directional flap), which is a common problem. For those of us who were out of warranty, that was why TonyWa made the heater core bypass kit.
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f92/...-wa-how-26740/
I even made a little upgrade to his kit
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f92/...ass-mod-79637/
Or, it may be the the heater core air flow flap actuator has come unplugged, but it is more likely that the actuator has stopped working or the flap is binding.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-13-2011, 01:17 AM
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Cheers Guys, I have had a look at those posts.

I have a 54 plate K engine Elise no Air Con.

I will be having a quite ponder at it this weekend but will be taking it into the garage sometime next week just to get it sorted. I would like to do it myself as I did all the work on my MR2 previously but as its under warranty it makes sense to make use of that....
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 03:25 AM
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Righto - an update:

Lotus have said that the actuator can be changed withough removing the front clam shell. Can anyone confirm this? I have looked at it last night and and rather confused how this is possible?

Last edited by dipper84; 06-03-2011 at 01:37 AM.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 05:07 AM
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https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f313/heater-problem-99711/

Quote:
Originally Posted by dipper84 View Post
Ive recently replaced my heater actuator which has given up, in doing that I must have disturbed the corroded wires of the resistor pack and that too started to fail. Today it gave up and Ive lost all fan speeds including temp as I think the actuator has gone again!? Could this be linked? I thought there still would be head coming into the cabin as when the car is in motion air will naturally flow through the heater matrix?

Ive had this car 6 weeks or so and its starting to wind me up!
Did you check fuse C1.
The fan speed switch has an input into the Switch Pack Module (SPM), however it is not clear what this does.
When you state "heater actuator" do you mean, "temperature", "mode" or "recirculation".
Michael

the actualtor I am referring to controls the temperature flap in the heater box.

I was un aware fo a fuse, will check it out as soon as I get out of work! Cheers....

BTW would you be able to pin point this fuse in a bit more detail as I cannot find it on :

http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Fusebox#K_Se...se_S2_Fuse_Box

Cheers )

Quote:
Originally Posted by dipper84 View Post
the actualtor I am referring to controls the temperature flap in the heater box.

I was un aware fo a fuse, will check it out as soon as I get out of work! Cheers....

BTW would you be able to pin point this fuse in a bit more detail as I cannot find it on :

Fusebox - TechWiki

Cheers )
My mistake, you have a "K" engine therefore you are looking for F3. Check fuse F7 too, that supplies the actuator.
Michael

Last edited by SirLotus; 06-30-2011 at 08:31 AM.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 07:20 AM
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Righto, I fitted a new actuator and now it has blown yet again! How can this be? the flap seemed to be working fine when I put it back in the car?
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by dipper84 View Post
Righto, I fitted a new actuator and now it has blown yet again! How can this be? the flap seemed to be working fine when I put it back in the car?
I don't know for sure why the actuator blew again, but, if the flap is intermittantly binding (as mine was), it could put undue stress on the actuator as it tries to move the flap to the requested position, and cause the motor to burn out (continual current through the actuator motor when it isn't moving will overheat it).

Were you able to put in the new actuator without removing the front clam?
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 12:37 AM
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I looked at the car last night, exactly as you suggested, the flap had started to bind. I greased the path in which the flap moves but I dont think this will be sufficient. Next week the car is going in for the resistor pack to be replaced so I will get the box sorted at the same time.

Is there a way of curing this binding? a slight modification to the flap or does it need a good clean up and thorough greasing?

I did manage to fit the actuator without removing the clam. I had my company cut down a socked so it fit in the small space available.
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 02:26 PM
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I never got so far as to figure out the root cause of the binding. I am interested in how you eventually solve it. (Replacing unit, trimming flap, fixing shaft, etc.) Once you do diagnose the cause of the binding and a fix, please post a description with pictures.
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 05:05 AM
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I shall do, the car is going in tonight so I will ask the garage to take a few photos of that they do. I will be asking them to give the heater box a good clean / grease / overhall and possibly to trim the top of the flap to prevent it from binding.

Watch this space!
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2017, 09:53 AM
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Drat. I was reading excitedly just to end on a cliffhanger. Any updates? I'm desperate to know for myself

Lotus Elise '05 Graphite Grey; Miles: 41,xxx
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2017, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ZeRoSL View Post
Drat. I was reading excitedly just to end on a cliffhanger. Any updates? I'm desperate to know for myself
Which issue are looking for an answer for? For the constant hot air, that is a design fault and only truly fixed with the heater core bypass mod. Mine failed (probably a loose wire) the other day and missed having it immediately, haha. Regarding the actuator, mine, too, has stuck before but has worked ever since I took a look. I didn't fix anything, but it works. Maybe it was catching on something that I inadvertently fixed?

"Lots Of Trouble; Usually Serious"
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-10-2017, 11:18 AM
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My flap is not moving, so I was hoping there was a fix for it, but after looking into it more and some good people answering my questions, i realize i will have to remove the clam to fix it

Lotus Elise '05 Graphite Grey; Miles: 41,xxx
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