HEATER PROBLEM - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-04-2018, 06:16 PM
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I have a heater bypass flapper that isn't moving. Have other people found the issue to be the actuator failing or is it the signal to the actuator? I can't seem to move the position (other than the free play) of the flapper to push it to fill cold manually. Should I be able to?
Also, I can only see one flapper from above. I think there's a second butterfly flap on the inlet to the heater core. Does that usually go at the same time? I guess that likely depends on if it's a failed actuator or signal. Can I get access to the second damper from under the car? I'd like to fix this but would prefer not to remove the clam.
Any input would be appreciated. I've read everything I can find. Mine is an 06 Canadian Elise. Thanks,
Mark
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-05-2018, 04:16 AM
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I have a heater bypass flapper that isn't moving. Have other people found the issue to be the actuator failing or is it the signal to the actuator? I can't seem to move the position (other than the free play) of the flapper to push it to fill cold manually. Should I be able to?
Also, I can only see one flapper from above. I think there's a second butterfly flap on the inlet to the heater core. Does that usually go at the same time? I guess that likely depends on if it's a failed actuator or signal. Can I get access to the second damper from under the car? I'd like to fix this but would prefer not to remove the clam.
Any input would be appreciated. I've read everything I can find. Mine is an 06 Canadian Elise. Thanks,
Mark
The actuator up top is just for directional controls (face, feet, defrost), so the one wayyy down below and between the frame and the cores is for the blending. Be careful calling it a heater bypass since that's a completely different topic and for bypassing the actual coolant flow. What you are referring to is what Lotus calls the blend door.

I replaced mine when I had everything apart, and I don't think there is enough room to do it any other way. I didn't have to try though, so with some effort you might be able to do it. First step though would be making sure all the connections are good at the actuator and at the cockpit controls and then go from there. I'll see if I can dig up the rockauto part number though since that is the same part but much cheaper than the formal sources.
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2018, 07:59 AM
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Sorry I wasn’t clear in my description. I’ll try to add pictures to show it as well but I’m new to this so I’m not sure how successful I’ll be.
The dampers that I was referring to were the ones that are part of the AC/heater unit as pictured in the attached.

All the dampers I was referring to were on the air side. I’d like to add the coolant bypass at some point but that will be down the road. The flap shown at the top can be seen from above once I remove the “trunking to the distribution unit” (after taking off the access panel). It’s the one that isn’t moving and I can’t seem to force to either side. I've attached a picture showing it.

I’m wondering if I can see the lower one that Lotus calls the “butterfly flap” without taking everything apart. My understanding is that they’re driven by the same actuator that is on the inboard side of the damper but is covered so I can’t get access to it without removing the clam and then the whole AC/heater unit. From what I’ve read Rover models can get access without removal but the others you have to remove it to get access.
My next step will be to check the cockpit control connections. If you are able to check the part number from Rock Auto that would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2018, 10:54 AM
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...

If you are able to check the part number from Rock Auto that would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
See this thread:
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f10...uators-442594/
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2018, 02:56 PM
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in your photo, the actuator is under a cover, you can see it, from the top, heater hose, heater hose, actuator cover[ center right top of image]

the actuator has three wires, 12 volts, ground and 0-12 volts from the knob. You could test it by alternately giving 12volts and ground to the actuator, in addition to the 12 volts and ground.

I am unsure if you loosened the heater box[there is only one strap on top that actually hold s it in] if could possibly shove it around enough to get access to the screws that hold the actuator in.
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