Help!! Wiring issue - not blower pack - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 02:05 PM
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cyo , for how the cost it have it's really better to find a new one...

about different movement with heater flap u would expect they move exactly the same when attached to same connector(just to verify wiring is ok). Stepper motor is exactly same.


in any case if sure is the stepper motor i think it's better to change

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-LOTUS...item53fd8da639

same motor also in AC rec... see link

last check i would made in any case is to verify that u can manual smoothly move the flap in all position

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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cyo , for how the cost it have it's really better to find a new one...



about different movement with heater flap u would expect they move exactly the same when attached to same connector(just to verify wiring is ok). Stepper motor is exactly same.





in any case if sure is the stepper motor i think it's better to change



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-LOTUS...item53fd8da639



same motor also in AC rec... see link



last check i would made in any case is to verify that u can manual smoothly move the flap in all position

Cost isn't the problem - I just can't do a clam off repair right now. A year ago I moved to a parking garage and can't do big stuff like that unless I borrow a friend's garage which is an absolute last resort.

I can't get a good angle on it to push it hard enough to go in the position I want, but that wouldn't tell me anything anyways. I am going to try to take the motor only out tomorrow if I can get to it without removing the clam.


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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-03-2015, 12:33 AM
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removing motor only it's possible but need to have really SMALL hands.

in other case u 're right it's a clam off job

let me know what's next...
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-03-2015, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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removing motor only it's possible but need to have really SMALL hands.

in other case u 're right it's a clam off job

let me know what's next...

I can get a wrench to the nut that holds it on, but I couldn't get a size that felt right. It doesn't help that I can barely see what I'm doing.

I put all the interior back together since it doesn't look like I'll need to get to anything on that side of the windshield. Now, my AC cuts off whenever I set the fan speed higher than 1, and the lights on the control panel dim as I turn the knobs. Yay...

Also, I disconnected the connector at the stepper motor and measured the output from the controller. When asking for full defrost, I got around 9V then slowly dropping. Setting it one full feet, I got <1V and slowly dropping. I think that supports my theory that the motor is getting the right signal but just moving to the wrong position. @SirLotus , is there a way to reset that motor using the Lotus scan tool? I couldn't find anything in the service manual, but I easily could've missed it.

I may have to remove the front clam soon anyways since I found a drip of coolant under the front end. I have an aluminum radiator that I put in years ago, so I'm guessing I got a busted hose somewhere.

Anyone feel like committing arson?


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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 07:18 AM
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I can get a wrench to the nut that holds it on, but I couldn't get a size that felt right. It doesn't help that I can barely see what I'm doing.

I put all the interior back together since it doesn't look like I'll need to get to anything on that side of the windshield. Now, my AC cuts off whenever I set the fan speed higher than 1, and the lights on the control panel dim as I turn the knobs. Yay...

Also, I disconnected the connector at the stepper motor and measured the output from the controller. When asking for full defrost, I got around 9V then slowly dropping. Setting it one full feet, I got <1V and slowly dropping. I think that supports my theory that the motor is getting the right signal but just moving to the wrong position. @SirLotus , is there a way to reset that motor using the Lotus scan tool? I couldn't find anything in the service manual, but I easily could've missed it.

I may have to remove the front clam soon anyways since I found a drip of coolant under the front end. I have an aluminum radiator that I put in years ago, so I'm guessing I got a busted hose somewhere.

Anyone feel like committing arson?


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Remember how I said you'd have a friend with a nice garage in Bristow soon? Well, I'm in the new house and ready to tackle this issue with you. Are you going to the GYLO this Sunday? If so, we can talk about it.

It's benefiting me because I'm learning as we go. Let me know if you want to wage war.
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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Remember how I said you'd have a friend with a nice garage in Bristow soon? Well, I'm in the new house and ready to tackle this issue with you. Are you going to the GYLO this Sunday? If so, we can talk about it.



It's benefiting me because I'm learning as we go. Let me know if you want to wage war.

Yes! I'll be at GYLO, too. My car is pretty distinctive - CO with a shaved clam - so come find me and we'll talk


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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-08-2016, 10:39 AM
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Just wondered if you fixed the problem? I have exactly the same concern so would be good to know how you got on.
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-15-2016, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Can someone take a picture of the actuator motor while in the face position and another picture while in the defrost position? There is a small notch that is visible, and I want to see if mine is just clocked weird or what.

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This is in the face position (see the notch at 3 o'clock) then it rotates to around 1 0'clock at the defrost position. @exigegus ?


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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-15-2016, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Just wondered if you fixed the problem? I have exactly the same concern so would be good to know how you got on.

Sorry, I didn't see this at the time; no luck on my side yet. What about you?


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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-15-2016, 07:42 PM
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I've got a spare distribution setup at work now so I will get you the info in the am
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post #31 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 08:26 AM
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attached are photos of the distribution box shaft, highlighted with blue tape parallel to the flat on the shaft. The images are shown with the box standing on its end, forward being down. The defrost[1154] is all the way ccw, the face [1156] is all the way cw

i still think the controls are supposed to be 0-12 volts and you are losing some voltage in there somewhere
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post #32 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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That post about voltage is old - I am currently getting 0V to battery voltage when I sweep through the positions. I think I just had bad contact with the wire previously.

So this confirms that nothing in my assembly is binding or out of whack. I think the problem lies in the actuator itself. I took it apart, and nothing is binding. The position sensing is pretty crude (a copper bridge is dragged across two copper terminals as it rotates, acting as a potentiometer) and not very well sealed. It wouldn't surprise me if corrosion has is influencing its operation and causing it to position itself wrongly.
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post #33 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 08:53 AM
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Servo is a pretty high falutin term for these things, I am used to CNC servos with .0001 positioning and dual tach/encoder feedback......
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post #34 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Servo is a pretty high falutin term for these things, I am used to CNC servos with .0001 positioning and dual tach/encoder feedback......

Well, the newer, more high faultin' actuator fixed it! I'm thinking the resistance has changed in the old one's position sensor and it lost home. Now, time to wire back up the heater core bypass and embrace summer!!


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