HVAC Box Flap Valve Stuck on Cold Air - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 03:50 AM Thread Starter
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HVAC Box Flap Valve Stuck on Cold Air

Hi All,

Looking for some help with my 06 Elise that doesnít doesnít blow hot air in the cabin. I traced it to the flap valve at the top of the HVAC box which doesnít move with temp knob changes (see below image of valve).

I managed to wiggle a tool behind the valve flap to attempt to nudge it back to the correct position. I gave it some leverage but it doesnít want to move. Any more force would have snapped it.

I think that the signal is not making it to the flap, but I also ensured that the HVAC controls are all attached behind the HVAC face plate. Are there other cable interfaces I should check? Do you have any other ideas? Itís starting to get colder where I live..




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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 05:33 AM
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There's a little plastic cover over the actuator nearby, so see if the connector is loose. It is possible that the actuator is bad, in which case you've got a massive project on your hands

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 04:48 PM
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Surprised you cant move the flap. Could be bound against the abs housing which may have been distorted with heat. Try pulling at the housing at the top while you are trying to free the flap.

If you get movement then oil the axles of main flap and butterfly flap below with oil drops on a thin wire and put a touch of grease inside the housing where the top corners of the main flap rest.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 04:46 AM
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Do you hear the actuator trying to move when you adjust the temp dial? If yes, have someone work the dial while you try to move the flap.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
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HVAC Box Flap Valve Stuck on Cold Air

It should be noted that A/C works, the fan blows at all 3 speeds, and the zone selector works (feet, face, windscreen).

Is the actuator toward the bottom of my photos? I might not be able to access it without pulling the clam.

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Last edited by clarkjk3nt; 10-01-2018 at 09:21 AM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkjk3nt View Post
It should be noted that A/C works, the fan blows at all 3 speeds, and the zone selector works (feet, face, windscreen).

Is the actuator toward the bottom of my photos? I might not be able to access it without pulling the clam.
This is the little plastic cover over the actuator. You should be able to just force it off to expose the actuator. To actually remove the actuator though requires removal of not just the clam but the whole heater core and some AC lines. It is all similar to the resistor pack replacement (lots of threads on that subject) so you realllllly want it to be wiring or a stray stick wedged in there or something.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 11:41 AM
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The connector going to the actuator has three wires

12 volts
Ground
0-12 volts[the output of the temp pot]

an easy first step is to find the white connector to the pigtail going down to the servo and check those voltages.

I have not done this, but theoretically you could:

supply the servo pigtail ground and 12 volts and then 12 volts to the variable wire, which with a working servo should either open or close the flap. Then 12 volts and ground, then ground to the variable wire should do the opposite to the flap. This is only with the pigtail detached from the rest of the car[else magic smoke gets out]

IIRC the servo is held in with 3x 4mm screws. If one were to remove the top clamp on the heater box, which is the only thing keeping it from rattling around, I wonder if one could shove it around a bit, and with small enough fingers and wrenches one could loosen them. There is almost no way in hell to get them back in, but then the flap would be loose and one could seasonally flip it until the whole HVAC rehab is in the cards

In the OP's pic the little white connector hiding under the heater hose should be the servo connector, and the pigtail disappears under the little plastic cover circled by cyow5
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 12:07 PM
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In case of nuclear disaster follow these 3 steps:

1) Bend over
2) Put your head between your legs
3) Kiss your ass goodbye

I hope the "fix-it" project doesn't get that bad.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-03-2018, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Some additional information. I was able to check on the connector described above, and while it looks like it isnít flush, I couldnít get the connector any more seated. This look normal to everyone else?


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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-04-2018, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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Great news all! It was a loose wire in the connector plug behind the HVAC control panel. I did one final check before surrendering to a broken heater - donít know how it escaped me the first couple times I looked there. Thank you all for the assistance!!


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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-04-2018, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkjk3nt View Post
Great news all! It was a loose wire in the connector plug behind the HVAC control panel. I did one final check before surrendering to a broken heater - donít know how it escaped me the first couple times I looked there. Thank you all for the assistance!!


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Awesome! Glad it was simple. I have replaced that actuator before and it is NOT fun

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-04-2018, 11:16 AM
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Great, no need to kiss anything goodbye.
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