Now that I've done this, I really think it was the way to go. I disconnected the AC on my other cars to do heater cores and it was always a pain and there's no guarantee that the AC will be charged correctly, proper PAG refill, etc. It's better to just not mess with it. A note for those that change their Accumulator/dryers. You must measure the qty of oil that comes out of the old dryer and then use that as a guide on PAG oil to re-install.
An assistant (need not be mechanically inclined)
Wire cutters - smaller is better
1/4" die grinder with cutting wheel arbor and cutting wheels
9-12 feet of 12 AWG Marine Grade wire
12 AWG butt splice connector
Heat shrink tubing
Vacuum cleaner with hose
Claw style pickup tool
I found an assistant to simply hand me tools. I used an air-powered die grinder with a high speed cutting disc, which I have lots of experience using, and cut the perforations out very nicely in less then 7 minutes. Filed off the sharp edges with a flat file, covered with duck tape and started in on the orange wire. Based on other people's experience, I intentionally tried to pull the resistor end of the orange wire to see if I could disconnect the wire that way, instead of cutting it. With little effort, the burnt and oxidized connector came out of the resistor pack. That allowed me to have a bit extra wire to handle. I cut and stripped the wire and noticed that the oxidation was inside the insulation. I then took a saturated solution of white vinegar and salt and cleaned the corrosion off of the wire end. This took the longest, because there was no way that I wanted to get any of that on the Lotus, so my assistant handed me a single Q-tip at a time. After cleaning the end thoroughly to remove the acid, I butt spliced on my marine grade (fully tinned) 12 AWG wire. Following Sir Lotus's instructions, I went straight up to 12 o'clock, through the foam insulation, and the wire ends up below the brake booster. I pulled the wire up with the claw pickup tool and pulled it up. I slipped on 2 feet of convoluted tubing and then snaked the wire towards the passenger compartment using the claw pickup tool. I went under the booster, and under the intake hoses, so the wire/tubing ended up being completely invisible. I then lubed the wire with KY and slipped it into the main wire harness rubber plug. The lube was necessary because the rubber plug seems to have some sticky substance on it that impedes sliding a wire through. At that point, the wire will be visible under the passenger side dash. From there, you can go up into the passenger side storage compartment, under the airbag, to the radio compartment and then down to the HVAC controls through the existing grommet.
I remember seeing a mention about a motor speed controller, but I haven't been able to find the link again. It looks like the motor could draw 12 amps/144 watts. I need to find a controller capable of that and then presumably use some small 1/4 watt resistors to replace the potentiometer that typically comes with the controller to get 3 speeds using the factory switch.