CDL module repair - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 12:00 PM
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Good work!

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post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-16-2016, 07:12 PM
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Any updates?

My CDL just quit (in the lock position). so Im also in the process of figuring this out.

I think ill go the direction of relay replacement. I tried looking for a replacement relay but could not find a vendor for the relay (HG4117 012-Z1) or any substitute. Ebay has some HG4117 but different form. Im thinking i can make it work. Just have to dig out my soldering skills if it is with in my capability.

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post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-17-2016, 03:26 AM
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Any updates?

My CDL just quit (in the lock position). so Im also in the process of figuring this out.

I think ill go the direction of relay replacement. I tried looking for a replacement relay but could not find a vendor for the relay (HG4117 012-Z1) or any substitute. Ebay has some HG4117 but different form. Im thinking i can make it work. Just have to dig out my soldering skills if it is with in my capability.
The HG4117 012-Z1 crosses to TYCO V23072-C1061-A303, which is used in some BMW modules. I
bought a couple off ebay for $10 a piece from a place in the US. Looked like there were cheaper ones
available from overseas.

When you take off the old relay, be aware of the PCB coating that will have seeped in around the edges.
Make sure the leads are free, than you can use a small jeweler's screwdriver to lever it up around the
edge to break the coating free from the relay case.

BTW, the SH1S variant of the HG4117 is also available on ebay; this one is used in the switch pack
module.

Mark
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post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-17-2016, 09:01 AM
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I had to replace my relays a few years ago. Here are the part numbers I found:

TYH HG41M 012-Z1 (what was originally on the board)
Tyco V23072C1061A303 (what I used)
Wanjia WJ201-1C-12 (should work)

Not sure if any are actually available anymore. Should be able to wire in almost any relay with a 12V coil with appropriate coil resistance, just would take extra work and maybe not look to pretty!
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post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 06:20 PM
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MarkB, 111Geek. Thanks for the info.

just picked up a couple from ebay. might as well pick up some HG4117 SH1S for the switch pack.

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post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I too just bought a pair of relays from eBay. I got my second Saab module in and I can't get any life out of it. With + to pin 4 and - to 3 trying to trigger it with a ground to 1 or 2 as shown in the diagram does nothing. I'll just replace my failed relay on the Lotus module and put it back in the car
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post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 05:20 AM
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The CDL module on my car went a couple of weeks ago. It was the fortunate case where unlocking worked but locking didn't. I did a little bit of looking around to see how expensive it would be to simply replace, and ended up deciding to give the repair route a try.

Thanks to MarkB and 111Geek for the tip on the Tyco relay (V23072-C1061-A303); that's what I used. Like MarkB said: $10 each on eBay; I replaced both.

I'm no great mechanic (though tend to be pretty fearless), nor am I particularly amazing with a soldering iron (though I'm not awful).

So, some thoughts on the process...

- Getting the switch panel off only required removing two screws on my car, the two in the back of the well. The two under the rubber mat could have been left in place.

- Someone prior to me working on the car snapped off one of the two tabs on the top of the switch plate; worth being careful about those when removing (pull straight down, not out).

- Everything on the inside of the car is sharp. I bled. A little less exuberance and perhaps a tiny bit of sandpaper or filing might have been a good idea.

- The piece of foam is bigger than it looks.

- Pretty average sized hands and working in there was a tiny bit claustrophobic. Large hands might make it nearly impossible.

- Desoldering the existing relays easily consumed half my total time working on the thing. They were adhered to the PCB pretty well.

- On my car, there was only one correct way for the PCB assembly to fit into the housing.

- Assembly is the reverse of disassembly

- Total time spent was around three hours. If I'd known exactly what I was looking for, it'd have been a lot less.

All that said, if anyone has figured out a 3rd party replacement CDL module that costs less than $100 and doesn't require shipping the existing part to the guy overseas that does these fixes, I'd be wholly interested for the next time this thing goes tits up (hoping not, but...).
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post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 06:11 AM
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I'm no great mechanic (though tend to be pretty fearless), nor am I particularly amazing with a soldering iron (though I'm not awful).

.
I actually used to make a living soldering and unsoldering components in a past life.

I thought I would chime in with a few tips.

Of course good tools make for good results. A temperature controlled soldering iron is the best, most don't have one, but if you play around with stuff it is a useful tool. Doesn't need to be adjustable

An 1/8 wide or so chisel tip is good for this job. Pointy doesn't get enough heat, super wide too much.

There are big etches on the board, they suck up a lot of heat, so be patient.

Add some flux core solder it will help get the heat into the joint.

Solder suckers work better than braid[solder wick]. Even the tiny turkey basters work ok

I have one of these:
https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...iABEgLL6fD_BwE

desolder all the pins to that they appear clean, they will probably still be stuck

using the iron tip push the pins back and forth. If you get it just right you will get just enough heat to break the last solder bond. If you overheat it it will remelt

Now grab the relay body and try to wiggle it, flip it over and touch the iron to break the stragglers free.

This is a single sided board, so the risks are really low, it is kinda hard to mess up with fat etches and none on the other side.

If dealing with a double sided board sometimes it is better to cut the component apart before desoldering rather than risk pulling an etch up off the top of the board.

Pull the etch off of a 5 layer board[IOW it has a layer of etch in the middle of the board, in addition to one on top and bottom] and see the look on your bosses face!

seems like this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072F35HHL...F5N5RK51&psc=1

and some relays and you would own the tool and be cash positive compared to buying a new CDL module.

Seems like the relays they use in all the modules are suspect, so this might be a useful skill to learn.

Just about the only things that die in modern electronics are electrolytic caps[the can looking ones] and relays.
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post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 08:03 AM
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I think I have 2 sleeves of those relays from repairing the blinker/headlight modules. If someone wants to send me their non-working Lotus CDL module in the US, I can take a stab at fixing it for you. If I get it working, you can pay $6.80 for USPS Priority mail, and I think $4 for the two relays. If I don't get it working, I can either send it back or leave it with my pile of no-longer used Lotus parts lol.

PM me if anyone is up for that.
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post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-04-2017, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exigegus View Post
I thought I would chime in with a few tips.
Awesome; thanks! I'll keep in mind for next time.


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PM me if anyone is up for that.
That's an awesome deal; if mine weren't already done, I'd likely take you up on it!
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post #31 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 05:28 PM
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I think I have 2 sleeves of those relays from repairing the blinker/headlight modules. If someone wants to send me their non-working Lotus CDL module in the US, I can take a stab at fixing it for you. If I get it working, you can pay $6.80 for USPS Priority mail, and I think $4 for the two relays. If I don't get it working, I can either send it back or leave it with my pile of no-longer used Lotus parts lol.

PM me if anyone is up for that.
Are you still willing to do repairs? i pulled my CDL, but have only experience soldering a half of a circuit board. never de-soldered before.
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post #32 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 09:14 PM
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I just ordered 10 of the required relays, so I should be able to do it once they arrive via UPS. My other sleeves of relays are for the switchpack.


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post #33 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 06:28 AM
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I just ordered 10 of the required relays, so I should be able to do it once they arrive via UPS. My other sleeves of relays are for the switchpack.
Thanks Silicon! I don't think the PM messaging works on this board anymore, so we will have to figure out another way to exchange addresses.
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post #34 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-18-2018, 03:22 PM
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I have used CDL's if needed.
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post #35 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 10:45 AM
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I was just able to order the CDL Module A116M6048 from Elise Parts.

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post #36 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 09:16 AM
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I was just able to order the CDL Module A116M6048 from Elise Parts.
Is this the one you're referring to?

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post #37 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 09:53 AM
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I have done a little development with the CDL. I originally remade this circuit with 2 relays and a arduino nano. Build thread.

Some reference info on the stock CDL, Looking at the plug on the CDL board here are the pins that are used. The colors are the wires that are on the connector in the car.

1 Black - GND
2 Purple - 12v
3 Solenoid - Leg1 Red
4 Solenoid - Leg2 Blue
5 Sensing Pin - Interior Lock Button - Orange/Pink
6 Sensing Pin - Lock Fob - White/Pink
7 Sensing Pin - Interior Unlock Button - Orange/Green
8 Sensing Pin - Unlock Fob - Pink/Green

The solenoids that actuate the door locks are wired together and mirror each other. Feed the solenoid legs with 12 it will go lock and reverse the 12 to the same pins and it will unlock. So you will need two relays for the solenoids one forward 12v (leg 1) and the other reverse 12v (leg 2). I have some photos of the whole setup ill try and post later if needed.
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post #38 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 10:08 AM
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I have done a little development with the CDL. I originally remade this circuit with 2 relays and a arduino nano.
Thanks for the info. I checked out your thread - impressive work! Sounds like you ended up scrapping the remade circuit, eh?

I do hate the thought of shelling out $150 for a new module, but I'd also like to have the option to secure the car with more than the manual locks. The convenience factor also comes into play when the better-half and I are out; one click instead of walking around to both doors (twice) each time we make a stop. I guess I do get some forced chivalry out of it..

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post #39 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 10:18 AM
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Is this the one you're referring to?
Yes. Mine is dated 39/2018

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post #40 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 11:23 AM
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I did end up removing the circuit to test some more. For some reason, when you would shut the car off and pull the key out, the doors would lock you in, and not "open" the locks to allow you to exit even if you had them in the locked state. Not every time it did this and the signal to lock wasn't coming thru the sensing pins that i was monitoring thru the serial output on the arduino for change of states. It was just strange that i couldn't get it to work consistently to figure out why... Additionally, i programmed the arduino to always unlock the solenoids on power up. This was a precaution, if your fob or the code got stuck, power cycle the car with the battery in the trunk, and boom she is unlocked. The circuit got removed when i relocated the battery with the BOE kit, the odyssey battery, and no longer in the trunk. Ill mess with it some more, maybe there is another circuit controlling the ignition state to activate the temp power, the radio stays on when you go from "on" to "off" right before you take the key out or something.

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Originally Posted by cmaser View Post
Thanks for the info. I checked out your thread - impressive work! Sounds like you ended up scrapping the remade circuit, eh?

I do hate the thought of shelling out $150 for a new module, but I'd also like to have the option to secure the car with more than the manual locks. The convenience factor also comes into play when the better-half and I are out; one click instead of walking around to both doors (twice) each time we make a stop. I guess I do get some forced chivalry out of it..
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