I actually never measured the amperage, they are off the shelf items and don't list any specs. I can probably measure next time I have one out. They have 3 pins, a common, a bright positive, and a brighter positive. I don't run it through a board of any kind, and have never had a blown fuse, so I have not had to worry about current draw. PM me if you want the connector P/Ns.
The fuse I am referring to is the fuse on my board, and not the car. I am using a 2.5A fuse on the board, so if your lights are going to pull more than about 0.5A each then the fuse on the board will just have to be switched out for a larger one, which is no big deal.
The board features a raw form of reverse voltage protection, short circuit protection, and transient protection from the noisy 12V power system of the car and alternator.
Really nicely done. I'm always impressed by lighting DIYs like this. I'd love to see more on the build process if you documented it at all.
Thanks for the kind words, the pictures you see are about all of the pictures I had taken. Really the process was super simple and mostly follows every other DIY thread for LED tail lights on the forum. The only thing I did differently was I 3D printed a piece of plastic that the LED rings would sit on, instead of re-using the stock plastic light diffuser. This darkened up the look of the tail lights, but also got rid of the "diffused" look which made the lights look older in my opinion. I then used a silicon adhesive to glue everything back together, and the rest was just creating the PWM controller circuit, building the board, and wiring.