BMW Wheel Bolts = Perfect Fit! And they are Black! - Page 6 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #101 of 199 (permalink) Old 02-22-2006, 04:29 AM
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The *only* other thing I can think of is the cone angle on the seat might be very slightly different (although honestly I can't imagine this would be the case).

ed

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post #102 of 199 (permalink) Old 02-22-2006, 04:35 AM
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Yesterday, a key shop refused to make a key for my Lotus. I'll skip the whole saga since it's off topic, but he said there's a chip in the key and he wouldn't be held responsible for damage. He was informed that there wasn't a chip. Still wouldn't do it.
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post #103 of 199 (permalink) Old 02-22-2006, 05:25 AM
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Anyone know the part number for the silver BMW bolts? The parts sellers are worried that they will not work since I do not have a BMW and want a part number so I can not blame them.
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post #104 of 199 (permalink) Old 02-22-2006, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keeper
Yesterday, a key shop refused to make a key for my Lotus. I'll skip the whole saga since it's off topic, but he said there's a chip in the key and he wouldn't be held responsible for damage. He was informed that there wasn't a chip. Still wouldn't do it.
I had a guy wonder about that. I told him the thing on the end of the key was a light (it didn't help that the battery was dead and it didn't light ), but he insisted that he had to check - so he put it into his "machine" that tested for RF signals, and decided that I was right.

Then he cut the key...




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post #105 of 199 (permalink) Old 02-22-2006, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMullen
I had a guy wonder about that. I told him the thing on the end of the key was a light (it didn't help that the battery was dead and it didn't light ), but he insisted that he had to check - so he put it into his "machine" that tested for RF signals, and decided that I was right.

Then he cut the key...
When my key's light stopped functioning I found that
the battery wasn't the problem but a slightly bent
connector. After bending it back I have had a proper
functioning light on my key and that was some months
ago.
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post #106 of 199 (permalink) Old 03-18-2006, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Some prefer different finishes on their wheel bolts. You can get press-on 17 mm hex caps in:

* Charcoal Gray/ Hex OD from VW.

* Black / Round OD from VW. Hex shaped hole in center for removal

* Chrome / Hex OD from Volvo

* Black / Hex OD from Saab: shown below (the tweezer thing is the removal tool they give you...~ $14 for 20 caps.
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post #107 of 199 (permalink) Old 03-18-2006, 04:04 PM
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Stan, you tried those on the OEM wheels? I don't think you'll be able to use the tweezer things (wheel c'bore too small).
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post #108 of 199 (permalink) Old 03-18-2006, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Stan, you tried those on the OEM wheels? I don't think you'll be able to use the tweezer things (wheel c'bore too small).
We'll find out. I will go try them out on the base wheels.

EDIT: No problem.

Last edited by Stan; 03-18-2006 at 04:10 PM.
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post #109 of 199 (permalink) Old 03-18-2006, 09:17 PM
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How about LSS wheel?
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post #110 of 199 (permalink) Old 03-19-2006, 03:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by R T
How about LSS wheel?
I don't have LSS wheels. You could try one out, they cost about $0.69 apiece. Looks like it would work, bear in mind that the OE bolt has a large head diameter compared to a 17mm hex head.

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post #111 of 199 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 10:29 AM
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Help!

The BMW wheel bolts (whose part numbers are sprinkled throughout this thread in various finishes) are only 28.5 mm length, right? This is inadequate if you're using the BWR 4.8mm spacers with SSRs. I would need at least 30 mm, but what is the maximum? 33 or 35 mm?

When I try to order from various places (local BMW dealer, pelicanparts, turner racing, etc.) they want either a part number or a BMW application (5 series, etc.), as their listings don't search by size. Does anyone know a part number or BMW application that's the right length for use with the spacers?

Any help greatly appreciated.

-Russ
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post #112 of 199 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 12:18 PM
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Go to summitracing.com, and look under wheel bolts. Put in the thread and length, and you can get just about anything you want. Thats what I did way back when, but I'll probably convert to studs pretty soon.
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post #113 of 199 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ_S
The BMW wheel bolts (whose part numbers are sprinkled throughout this thread in various finishes) are only 28.5 mm length, right? This is inadequate if you're using the BWR 4.8mm spacers with SSRs. I would need at least 30 mm, but what is the maximum? 33 or 35 mm? When I try to order from various places (local BMW dealer, pelicanparts, turner racing, etc.) they want either a part number or a BMW application (5 series, etc.), as their listings don't search by size. Does anyone know a part number or BMW application that's the right length for use with the spacers? Any help greatly appreciated.-Russ
BMW Wheel Bolts of various lengths: Use H&R Springs bolts, many lengths avalable.

BMW Studs: besides the Elisetalk suppliers, also try BMW places such as turnermotorsports.com in MA, tcklineracing.com, and others...
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post #114 of 199 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 01:22 PM
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My TT has press on caps.

I hate them. Total PITA to remove and replace.
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post #115 of 199 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 01:46 PM
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Thanks!

Thanks, guys. H&R makes a 35mm length, but I was afraid that might be too long, so I ordered the Gorilla 1.3" (33mm) from Summit. Should work until I get sick of it and switch to studs.

-Russ
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post #116 of 199 (permalink) Old 04-07-2006, 01:37 AM
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So to retorque my bolts do i first have to loosen them slightly, and then retighten or can i just walk around with the torque wrench checking for the click at each bolt? ie will these bolts ever gain torque across them?
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post #117 of 199 (permalink) Old 04-07-2006, 03:33 AM Thread Starter
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So to retorque my bolts do i first have to loosen them slightly, and then retighten or can i just walk around with the torque wrench checking for the click at each bolt? ie will these bolts ever gain torque across them?
Reclick each one, DO NOT loosen and reapply. When a wheel fastener needs a retorque, it is not because the fastener unwound itself. It's because the clamped item (wheel) squished a bit => compressive yield. When you reclick you help the assembly stabilize after it has settled. Stronger forged wheels experience less loss of tension requiring retorquing. Once things stabilize, torque will be maintained. Also check torque after car service, after a track day when you get home, etc.
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post #118 of 199 (permalink) Old 04-07-2006, 05:39 AM
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When I load new wheels on, I like to torque it, take a quick drive, and retorque. They're usually unchanged, but every now and then one bolt/nut will really need some tightening. I mention nuts because I converted my cars to a stud kit. But the physics are the same.

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post #119 of 199 (permalink) Old 04-07-2006, 12:15 PM
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Being anal about wheel bolts is a good thing(tm). I like to walk around the car twice when clicking them down. Then I put the torque wrench in the pass seat, and re-click at my first stop before putting the wrench away. That way I don't have to remember if I've done my re-torque or not: I know I've done it if the wrench is in the box.
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post #120 of 199 (permalink) Old 04-07-2006, 12:30 PM
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As anal as you are, you must make a terrific engineer.





J/K bud.

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