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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-27-2015, 03:57 AM
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You can just a needle nose plier push and turn at the same time to get the job done, other wise snap on makes a brake kit

06 OCM elise r.i.p.
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-27-2015, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3carmonte View Post
As I have yet to replace my pads, I am taking away something from the Michael Sands video on Rear Brake Pad Replacement where he is "screwing-in" the brake caliper piston with a pair of needle nose pliers for lack of the "Lotus" brake caliper compression tool. I am reminded of this as I'm about to replace the rear brake pads on my VW GTI which appears to require the same/similar tool. I found/saw this set at Sears.com.
Sears.com
Does any one have this kind of "Euro-brake-piston" compression tool?
Apparently my days of brake piston compression with a wood clamp are over!
harbor freight is your friend, same kit $20

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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-27-2015, 05:04 AM
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Their's some things that's worth buying at hf and tools isn't one of them, you pay what you get!

06 OCM elise r.i.p.
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-27-2015, 06:31 AM
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Got yours on sale huh?

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Originally Posted by jds62f View Post
harbor freight is your friend, same kit $20
Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit 18 Pc

Now they're a big $44.99 from China-Fright! LOL!
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-27-2015, 07:46 AM
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For most calipers that require a retracting tool you can use one of the cubes available at most auto parts stores.
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-27-2015, 08:27 AM
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guess there's a lot of inflation in china!

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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 10:18 AM
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Question

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Originally Posted by luxige View Post
In case others are looking for that link:
How to Rebuild a Brembo Caliper - TechWiki
An excellent writeup.
For the rears ---
I needed to replace just the piston seal, I finally found the part... now during reassembly I am having problems --- has anyone here performed the full reassembly detailed in the TechWiki?

I am pushing the piston back in. It won't screw down any further but it is still raised about 1/4" above the caliper housing.

I think it is all lined up... looking through the grub screw I can see the divot in the worm shaft, and it lines up with the ball bearing from the parking break lever side. Is that the alignment I am looking for?

The directions mention in one Hint that it might take 2-3 tons of pressure to snap the piston back in place. Another hint said it might not take much pressure. Either way the piston should end up at or slightly below the level of the caliper.

I have access to a press but not body shielding to put that much pressure on it. I am concerned. I tried but basically got scared.

Edit: Well, perhaps lining up the divot and ball bearing was wrong, I tried again making sure it was not lined up, then I arranged the clamp so that while I was compressing the piston I could also rotate the parking brake lever (this is one of the hints) and finally... I am not sure I heard the piston clip in but I did hear my knuckle get smashed and the c-clamp fly off of the caliper and now it appears to be functioning correctly. I then did line up the divot with the grub screw hole and screwed the screw back in.
When I screw the piston clockwise it returns back into the caliper, and when I ratchet the parking break lever the piston extends away from the caliper. I won't be able to bleed the brakes and try this out for a while. I will update this thread if it DOES NOT work.

Edit2: I only needed a piston seal. I spent a long time looking for just a piston seal rebuild kit vs everything and at the time I needed it as fast as I could get it. I found StopTech 36mm ST143.99036 kit for $36. Note that the dust boot in the kit doesn't fit our calipers but the pressure seal works.
Hindsight I ended up having the time so I should have just waited and gotten the whole kit, which Elise-Shop sells for under $30 it appears.. I recommend you just get that instead of doing what I did.


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Last edited by EricH; 01-10-2016 at 01:12 PM.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 01:34 PM
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If you get it back in, please update here or send me a pm. I have to do this procedure and haven't begun yet...

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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by EricH View Post
For the rears --now during reassembly I am having problems --- has anyone here performed the full reassembly detailed in the TechWiki?
Yes. I don't recommend trying a press. I do recommend lots of time and patience. See post #15 in this thread for further info.

In theory, there is no difference between Theory and Practice. In practice, there is. - Y. Berra
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 01:16 PM
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I am guessing there will be more people rebuilding their Brembo rear calipers so I thought I'd add to this as another supplement to the excellent Seloc article referenced earlier (I would not have tried without it). I rebuilt 4 calipers and redid 2 of them out of paranoia that I might have misordered a washer. I could disassemble and reassemble in 25 minutes by the time I was done I used the Elise-Parts kits. The text refers to attached photos in this and the next post.

I found the larger metal cylinders in the sliders to be good bases for two small household pry bars to rest upon. Steady firm pressure pops the cylinders quite easily.

I did not remove the 4mm cap head with the tiny o-ring. I found it easy enough to use a long-flat-blade screwdriver (5mm) to pry out both ends of the spring clip: peer in with a head-lamp; place the flat-blade between the piston wall and the tab near one end; twist until it springs up slightly; repeat on the other side; push the top of the worm-gear shaft towards the piston wall and the whole arrangement will pop out.

I have included some photos showing details of the internals at the furthest point of disassembly (sliders aside), roughly in order.

It was useful to me on reassembly to visualize that the cone on the worm-gear only rotates when the parking brake is *released*. The only difference between the left and right mechanisms is the orientation of the three little "ramps" on the driven plate.

I used the sides of a medium-size crescent wrench to press the "coat hanger" retaining clip back into the piston (it is this clip that is overcome to pop out the piston).

There is a photo showing the piston prepped for reassembly with the spring as compressed as possible and the spring clip ingeniously pre-loaded onto the top of the piston (hats off to the designer).

Seating the dust-boot in the caliper is very fiddly. I pushed the boot on the top of the piston, off the top stop-groove, and then down as far as possible without letting it pop off the bottom and/or creep to far back (which it will do a few times). I then used a plastic pry bar to poke the skirt into the dust boot seat working around while letting the piston site lightly on top but using the weight of the piston to hold the boot in place. I had the whole caliper propped on my 2x6 wooden jig described next.

I did find the Seloc Hint #3 method of reassembling (push piston in by hand while twisting with long-nose pliers) worked, but I did need to put my weight on the piston while screwing it in. I used a piece of 2x6 in which I drilled a hole as a base jig. I put a small screw in the wood surface to stop the caliper twisting (seating the spring clip completes priston reassembly).

Good Luck!
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2007 Exige S
Stripped down and turned into a track animal

Last edited by thebuzzard; 08-26-2018 at 01:22 PM. Reason: removed one photo
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post #31 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 01:18 PM
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A couple more photos...

Thanks
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2007 Exige S
Stripped down and turned into a track animal
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