I am guessing there will be more people rebuilding their Brembo rear calipers so I thought I'd add to this as another supplement to the excellent Seloc article referenced earlier (I would not have tried without it). I rebuilt 4 calipers and redid 2 of them out of paranoia that I might have misordered a washer. I could disassemble and reassemble in 25 minutes by the time I was done
I used the Elise-Parts kits. The text refers to attached photos in this and the next post.
I found the larger metal cylinders in the sliders to be good bases for two small household pry bars to rest upon. Steady firm pressure pops the cylinders quite easily.
I did not remove the 4mm cap head with the tiny o-ring. I found it easy enough to use a long-flat-blade screwdriver (5mm) to pry out both ends of the spring clip: peer in with a head-lamp; place the flat-blade between the piston wall and the tab near one end; twist until it springs up slightly; repeat on the other side; push the top of the worm-gear shaft towards the piston wall and the whole arrangement will pop out.
I have included some photos showing details of the internals at the furthest point of disassembly (sliders aside), roughly in order.
It was useful to me on reassembly to visualize that the cone on the worm-gear only rotates when the parking brake is *released*. The only difference between the left and right mechanisms is the orientation of the three little "ramps" on the driven plate.
I used the sides of a medium-size crescent wrench to press the "coat hanger" retaining clip back into the piston (it is this clip that is overcome to pop out the piston).
There is a photo showing the piston prepped for reassembly with the spring as compressed as possible and the spring clip ingeniously pre-loaded onto the top of the piston (hats off to the designer).
Seating the dust-boot in the caliper is very fiddly. I pushed the boot on the top of the piston, off the top stop-groove, and then down as far as possible without letting it pop off the bottom and/or creep to far back (which it will do a few times). I then used a plastic pry bar to poke the skirt into the dust boot seat working around while letting the piston site lightly on top but using the weight of the piston to hold the boot in place. I had the whole caliper propped on my 2x6 wooden jig described next.
I did find the Seloc Hint #3 method of reassembling (push piston in by hand while twisting with long-nose pliers) worked, but I did need to put my weight on the piston while screwing it in. I used a piece of 2x6 in which I drilled a hole as a base jig. I put a small screw in the wood surface to stop the caliper twisting (seating the spring clip completes priston reassembly).