Factory Track Pack Recommended Set up - Page 3 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #41 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-24-2006, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Hey Meat,
I'm right there or pehaps a bit lower when applying my butt in the car........... I have uprated uprights, toe links, bushings and my new Nitron Race suspension and what ever else I could do. I have the new Aluminum rear uprights from Geary...........The quality is superb!!!!!

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post #42 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-24-2006, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Chase
So... anyone have hints on the easiest way to chisel or grind off off the nuts? Maybe a dremel????
Got any PICs?

BTW...if you get a chance do a crack test on some of the take-off bits...magnaflux or whatnot.
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post #43 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-24-2006, 11:38 AM
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Got any PICs? .
Here are the two nuts that must be removed...


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post #44 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-24-2006, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Chase
Here are the two nuts that must be removed...
Hmmm, I really hope mine are not welded...

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post #45 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-24-2006, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Chase
Here are the two nuts that must be removed...
Dremel with cutoff disks? Air die grinder with some cylindrical carbide bits?

They look to be welded in there pretty well, they don't look like small spot welds that will just chisel off easily. That's not going to be easy...




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post #46 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-24-2006, 01:55 PM
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No way to get a cut off disk in there. I think the max size tool would be about 1/8" diameter.

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post #47 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-24-2006, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Chase
No way to get a cut off disk in there. I think the max size tool would be about 1/8" diameter.
It would be even hard to fit a die grinder bit in there...

Maybe it is only welded on the side and a chisel would work to cut the welds. It looks like it's filled/radiused all around the nuts, but maybe that's just the galvanized coating filling in around the nut.

In any case, I wish you luck.

Is it welded in your car because it's an early car? Later cars weren't welded? In which case, it another "feature" of the early cars...




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post #48 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-26-2006, 08:24 AM
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Thanks Mark! I like the Ohlins and once the weather is better out here I want to get mine corner balanced. I'll check the clearance to the wheel liners but I would like to lower it a little.
Cheers, Adam.

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post #49 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-26-2006, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Chase
...anyone have hints on the easiest way to chisel or grind off off the nuts? Maybe a dremel????

How good do the welds look? I made this out of cardboard so it might make sense when I describe it. If you remove the two existing bolts. Then make a metal bracket with 3 holes in it (the cardboard in my pic) then, from the bottom, run the two outside into the welded nuts. Finally, using the center bolt, tighten it, maybe the two nuts will 'pop'. If the welds are high quality, the bracket would probably bend before the nuts break off.

OK, everyone can laugh at me now.....I can take it.
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post #50 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-27-2006, 04:16 PM
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Is this the redesign of the redesign of the original? If not, I think it's around $600. Good to know the one pictured is of the original design.

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post #51 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-27-2006, 05:46 PM
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The new "production" track brace coming in on track pack cars is lighter, simpler and cheaper than the first version. I think that the first version may have come out of a different part of the company, Lotus Sport, but I'd have to check on that.

From the horse's mouth the new brace is a simple steel tube with a hole drilled through each flattened-out end. So the bolts that goes through the accompanying new rod ends would also pass through one end of the track brace. The feeling is that the stock bits are fine for A048 tires it seems. But if you go gummier, then you should add the brace. Adams seemed to indicate that, for autocross, the brace was not really necessary, even on Hoosiers, not sure about Goodyear "real slicks". Must be a time duration thing as autocross is so brief compared to a series of 20-30 minute runs at a track day?
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post #52 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-29-2006, 10:40 AM
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Does anyone know the part number for the rear brace kit? I've searched but can't find it anywhere

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post #53 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-29-2006, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan
From the horse's mouth the new brace is a simple steel tube with a hole drilled through each flattened-out end. So the bolts that goes through the accompanying new rod ends would also pass through one end of the track brace.
It makes me wonder then if the new brace only ties in one rod end to the opposite rod end, and that is enough, could you install the old track brace using only the rod ends also? Just rotate it 90 degrees and not use the engine mount bolts.

Anyone?

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post #54 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-29-2006, 12:03 PM
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Who is going to be the first to flatten some tubing and drill holes in it? Offer cromoly and aluminum versions for $250 and $300 respectively and almost every Elise/Exige will have one.
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post #55 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-29-2006, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Buz
Who is going to be the first to flatten some tubing and drill holes in it? Offer cromoly and aluminum versions for $250 and $300 respectively and almost every Elise/Exige will have one.
It will take a little more than the tubing part. You need to replace the end joints also, and the bolts, and offer some machined spacer thingies.

And then be covered by corporate liability insurance.

#somethingwickedthiswaycomes... the new Origin Noble M and the Origin 7

Zenos E10S for Sale! www.zenosforsale.com

There are some very shady dealers in the Lotus business.

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post #56 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-29-2006, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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The Lotus part number is LOTAC05377..............List price is $671.15.........We have them in stock.........

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post #57 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-29-2006, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Starr
The Lotus part number is LOTAC05377..............List price is $671.15.........We have them in stock.........
Awesome Mark! This is a gen-u-ine Lotus part. It's lighter, cheaper, and easier to install than the first version. Why go aftermarket?
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post #58 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-29-2006, 03:03 PM
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So I assume this part number is for the updated lighter version?

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post #59 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-29-2006, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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That is for the old part but I have to see if there will be a new part number. I will advise. I have a call in already.......

Good judgement is based upon experience. Experience is based upon BAD JUDGEMENT!!!

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post #60 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-29-2006, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Chase
It makes me wonder then if the new brace only ties in one rod end to the opposite rod end, and that is enough, could you install the old track brace using only the rod ends also? Just rotate it 90 degrees and not use the engine mount bolts.
If the brace is not attached to the chassis, but only to the track rod ends, then it will not be putting the track rod ends in double shear. The loads from one side will allow the joint to flex, and transfer that flex to the other side. That would spread the load from the regular single shear joint, to two single shear joints. Which would be nowhere near as strong as a single double shear joint. And may even be weaker that the regular tie rod end in single shear.

The new brace may just be a tube flattened at each end, but I bet it attaches to the chassis in the middle somewhere...




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I love being married. It's so great to find that one person that you want to annoy for the rest of your life. - Rita Rudner


Chantilly, VA http://members.cox.net/elans4/
05 Lotus Elise - Chrome Orange - No Touring - No LSS - No Hardtop - Lotus Driving Lights - Lotus "Chin Guards" - plain and simple.
94 Miata R Package - Black
72 Lotus Elan Sprint - Colorado Orange/Cirrus White
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