FCR Bracket Installation Tutorial Lotus Elise/Exige/211 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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FCR Bracket Installation Tutorial Lotus Elise/Exige/211

Hi all, I recently did this installation on my Elise and found the instructions that came with the bracket to be in need of improvement, and also I could not find any prior information about installing this kit posted anywhere on the internet so I decided to write this tutorial.

Installation Tutorial – FCR Bracket for S2 Lotus Elise/Exige/211


FCR = Front Caliper Relocation bracket – Allows repositioning of the front 2-piston stock Lotus brake calipers to the rear of the car. This bracket is available from Sector111. The stock sized front brake rotor must be installed on the rear to make this setup work as well. This caliper allows you to retain the stock rear single piston caliper to retain the parking brake (mechanical only with the stock parking brake cable, no braking function). This is frequently used in conjunction with a 308mm big brake kit upgrade on the front wheels such as AP racing or Wilwood 4 piston front caliper kits available from Sector111.
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Last edited by Nickshu; 11-24-2016 at 07:19 PM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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This tutorial will outline the installation of the FCR bracket to the rear hub. Removal of the front caliper and it’s reinstallation is not included in this tutorial. If you are undertaking this project on your own it is assumed you know how to remove, install, and bleed brake calipers.

Mechanical work on any car requires skill, care, and safety. If you are not experienced in brake and suspension work professional installation is recommended. Do not take any chances with safety and braking equipment if you doubt your skills or lack experience in any way. Users of this tutorial proceed at their own risk and the author (Nickshu) takes no responsibility for your errors in skills or judgement.

Special tools needed (beyond typical mechanic’s tools): Socket 30mm ˝” drive; Impact wrench (recommended, not required); Metric allen sockets; Torque wrench, Replacement rear axle nut cotter pins (can get at most hardware stores), blue locktite.

The photos in this tutorial are of the right side of the car. The left side installation is no different.

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Last edited by Nickshu; 11-24-2016 at 04:08 PM.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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1.) Raise the vehicle safely and securely. Remove the wheels. Remember a hydraulic jack is not a jack stand!

2.) Disconnect the parking brake cable from the caliper and remove the rear caliper, hang the caliper on the upper A-arm to keep tension off the brake flex hose. Remove the rear brake rotor and clean the mating surface thoroughly with a wire brush or wire cup. It is assumed in this tutorial that you have already removed the front caliper from the car, ready to install on the rear. This is a great time to rebuild your front calipers, and/or paint them while they are off the car.

3.) Unplug the ABS sensor harness and unsecure the plastic plugs from the metal abs harness guide bracket. I was able to pinch and remove the lower retaining plug, the upper one I had to cut off and re-zip tie later. Cut the zip ties for the cable from the top of the rear upper suspension a-arm. This metal ABS harness guide bracket will be swapped with the one on the other side of the car in a later step.
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Last edited by Nickshu; 11-24-2016 at 04:09 PM.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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4.) Remove the cotter pin from the rear hub/axle bolt, reuse of cotter pins is not recommended, new ones can be obtained at most local hardware stores.

5.) Remove the large castle nut and washer holding the rear axle to the rear hub (30mm socket needed). An impact wrench is the easiest way to get this off as it’s torqued to 162 ft lbs.

6.) Unbolt and disconnect the rear toe-link attachment at the rear hub.

7.) Unbolt the two upper allen head bolts from the back of the upper ball joint plinth, take note of the camber shims and metal abs harness guide and set them aside (don’t confuse the left/right side shims so they can be reinstalled for the same camber setting- The car does not need alignment after this install as long as these are reinstalled exactly as they came out). With the rear toe link disconnected you can rotate the rear hub to get access to these bolts more easily by pulling outwards on the hub at the toe link attachment point.

8.) Do not unbolt the lower ball joint, this will be your pivot point.
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Last edited by Nickshu; 11-24-2016 at 04:03 PM.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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9.) Using a hard rubber mallet, or carefully using hammer and brass drift tap on the center end of the axle shaft inwards to release the outer CV joint from the hub/bearing carrier splines. Use caution not to damage the threads, the castle nut can be installed backwards on the threads to protect them during this. It should only take a few taps. I found a brass drift and hammer worked best. A block of wood may also work with a hammer. A steel punch/drift is not recommended as it could damage the end of the axle shaft/threads.

10.) With the axle bolt, outer CV joint splines and upper ball joint plinth bolts loose, as well as the rear toe link disconnected, grasp the outer CV joint and rotate the rear hub assembly forward while pulling the outer CV joint splines out of the hub/bearing carrier.

11.) With the rear hub now free from the CV joint and rotated forward (pivoting on the lower ball joint) you will see 3 bolts (19mm heads) that secure the rear wheel bearing to the hub. The black plastic ring around the rear wheel bearing w/ the wiring coming off is the ABS sensor.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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12.) Take note that the plug coming out of the ABS sensor ring is exiting at an upwards and forwards angle (the 2 o’clock position on the left hub and the 10 o’clock position on the right hub). The original position of the ABS sensor harness and metal harness bracket will interfere with the new location of the relocated brake caliper and it will need to be “re-clocked” to an upwards and backwards position to allow the harness to be out of the way of the caliper and axle shaft.

13.) Remove the 3 bolts that hold the rear wheel bearing to the rear hub (19mm heads). An impact wrench is helpful here as the hub is resting just on the lower ball joint.

14.) Separate the rear wheel bearing from the hub (mine just fell out once unbolted, so hold onto it!)

15.) The ABS sensor is swedged to the rear wheel bearing and is not removable. The fit of the bearing into the hub is symmetrical meaning it can be bolted in place in any of 3 positions. Rotate the wheel bearing backwards one bolt such that the Abs harness now is positioned in an upwards and rearwards direction (The new position being 10 o’clock on the left hub and 2 o’clock on the right hub.) Place the lower rearward original bolt in place with your fingers a few turns just to hold it together while you get the FCR bracket ready. Ensure all debris is cleaned from the area and mating surfaces of the hub to bearing and FCR bracket to hub

16.) Offer up the FCR bracket to the front two bolts and using the supplied M12 allen bolts with blue locktite applied then secure the FCR bracket in place finger tight. Remove the lower rearward original bolt, clean the threads and apply blue locktite to this bolt, then put it back in place finger tight.

17.) Evenly tighten the three bolts until snug alternating bolts (Two supplied allen bolts thru the FCR bracket – replacing the stock bolts - and one original bolt). The torque them all to 66 ft lbs (90 Nm) per the factory service manual.
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Last edited by Nickshu; 11-24-2016 at 04:49 PM.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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18.) Ensure the hub splines are free from debris and reinstall the outer CV joint into the hub as you swing the hub back into place loosely.

19.) Swap the metal abs harness bracket from left to right (Install the left one on the right side and the right one on the left side.) This will allow the new harness routing to use the original metal abs harness guide/bracket for a very neat and clean installation. Once in place the harness end of the bracket (rearwards) may need some slight bending to get it in an optimal position, this is best done holding the rear (parking brake) caliper in place to test fit the space available.

20.) Before installing the upper ball joint allen bolts look at the heads of your bolts, note whether they are 8.8 grade or 10.9 grade as stamped into the edges of the allen head (this will be important later).

21.) Install the same camber shims along with the metal harness bracket then reinstall the upper two ball joint plinth allen bolts with blue locktite applied.

22.) Torque the upper ball joint plinth allen bolts. If you have 8.8 bolts (Early 2005 cars) torque them to 33 ft lbs (45 Nm), if you have 10.9 bolts (mid year 2005-on cars) torque them to 50 ft lbs (68 Nm).

23.) Bend the excess part of the metal ABS sensor bracket towards the outside of the car to avoid sharp edges contacting the brake line as it exits the front caliper in it’s new location. Zip tie the ABS harness back in place to the bracket and the upper a-arm.
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Last edited by Nickshu; 11-24-2016 at 04:07 PM.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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24.) Reinstall the rear toe link to the hub carrier. With a stock toe link the torque is 40 ft. lbs (55 Nm). If you have the S111 RTD2 brace outer toe link kit the torque value is 59 ft. lbs.

25.) Reinstall the large washer and 30mm bolt onto the outer CV joint/hub. Torque to 162 ft lbs (220 Nm) and reinstall a new cotter pin. (You may need to use an impact or wait until your brakes are installed and bled to have an assistant hold the brakes on and/or the parking brake on or use some other method to keep the rear wheel from spinning during torqueing). Ensure the raised vehicle is stable enough for this level of torque safely before proceeding.

26.) This completes the installation of the FCR bracket. You may now proceed with installing the front caliper on the rear, installing a front brake rotor on the rear, and reinstalling the stock rear caliper if you desire to retain the parking brake. Recommended torque value for the front caliper to the FCR bracket is 33 ft lbs with blue locktite applied using the original caliper bolts from the front. Thorough bleeding of the brakes is necessary before driving. Bleeding the front brake calipers may be made much easier by installing QWKbleed lines from Sector111. Air trapped in the front stock calipers that won’t bleed out is a known problem and these lines solve this issue saving time and frustration. In this case you would mount the QWKbleed lines on the rear of the car to the relocated front calipers, they are of adequate length to allow this.

27.) Now step back and enjoy the fruits of your labor with your favorite cold adult beverage.
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Last edited by Nickshu; 11-27-2016 at 06:47 AM.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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This may be helpful as well - Factory torque settings from the service manual – note they are in Nm – NOT FT LBS!
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 03:51 PM
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Would the emergency brake still be part of the brake system sharing fluid or will it all be mechanical and controlled by the handbrakes?
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nessal View Post
Would the emergency brake still be part of the brake system sharing fluid or will it all be mechanical and controlled by the handbrakes?
All mechanical by the cable only with no hydraulic braking function. The rear brake hydraulic line would go to the repositioned front caliper.

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Last edited by Nickshu; 11-24-2016 at 04:16 PM.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-26-2016, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Here's the rear brake caliper that will be used just for the parking brake. I installed a bleeder (M10x1. 0) in the open spot where the brake line originally went.

The automatic adjustment function on the piston still works but it's adjustment range appears to require a little resistance. I tried installing it with the piston turned all the way in but actuation of the parking brake handle about 100 times did not advance the piston much at all. So by trial and error I turned the piston out little by little until the pads had a little drag... Then with a bit of resistance occurring then the piston self adjusted and then the parking brake worked great.

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-26-2016, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the finished product installed along with Wilwood 308mm fronts. Test drive showed amazing results...wow can this thing brake now! Face...Meet windshield!!

I kept the stock master cylinder, so far I see no difference in pedal travel, the pedal feels rock solid and travel is the same as with stock brakes. Some have said they went to a big bore master cylinder with this setup due to excessive pedal travel but I don't see any at all. Shinoo at Sector111 has told me they have run many cars with this setup on the track with the stock master cylinder and had no problems, so not sure if that's really an issue or not. I bought a big bore master sitting here in a box, I may not need it but have it just in case.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 07:10 PM
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Thanks for the write-up!

** save ~10 lbs gain 1 hp ** EQ: Y=(190*X) / (1984-X) where Y is (HP) and X is (lbs)

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shay2nak View Post
Thanks for the write-up!
You realize this thread is 2.5 years old, right?

The problem with this idea IMHO is retaining the rear caliper just for the parking brake functionality. If you've ever picked this caliper up, it's extraordinarily heavy. I'd recommend getting rid of it and using a spot caliper if you really require a parking brake. I haven't had a parking brake in over 7 years. I can only remember one occasion where I actually needed it.

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 04:37 AM
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@oldmansan Looking at these pictures make me wonder... Is there a reason if not keeping the parking brake to not cut off the left most casting where the PB would bolt on the rear upright. IT's just dead weight at this point if not bolting a PB to it.

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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmansan View Post
You realize this thread is 2.5 years old, right?

The problem with this idea IMHO is retaining the rear caliper just for the parking brake functionality. If you've ever picked this caliper up, it's extraordinarily heavy. I'd recommend getting rid of it and using a spot caliper if you really require a parking brake. I haven't had a parking brake in over 7 years. I can only remember one occasion where I actually needed it.

San
Ya, but I just found it. lol

I use the ebrake all the time. On a hill, on my driveway pulling up and at traffic lights to rest. And also while parking.
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** save ~10 lbs gain 1 hp ** EQ: Y=(190*X) / (1984-X) where Y is (HP) and X is (lbs)

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