Sector111 DSbrace instructions, don't follow them. - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Sector111 DSbrace instructions, don't follow them.

Sector111 DSbrace instructions, don't follow them.


http://www.sector111.com/images/prod...structions.pdf




========
5. Remove nut at Outer Joint of Toe Link and
separate Outer Joint using tie rod
separator.
========

There is no reason on God's green earth to do this. Leave it on the car. Seriously. They would have you take off the caliper so you could reach this joint with a puller, and a few minutes later, install it on the car again. Complete waste of time and effort.

Before you begin, scribe between the upright and the upper ball joint. This will get you back close to where you were. You do not need to measure anything off the car.

IMG_4497 by philethier, on Flickr

Take off everything except the outer joint. Put aluminum antisieze on the outer joint and run the jam nut back and forth until it runs freely.

Assemble rod system on the car, with jam nuts and aluminum antisieze. Run jam nuts all the way to the joints and screw the big link rod up to the jam nuts.


========
14. . Install DSbrace assembly onto car,
making sure to align the frame adapter
with groove on subframe.
o Secure DSbrace to subframe with 2
small bolts supplied with hardware kit.
o Tighten bolts to 7 ft/lbs
Note : Use blue loctite on these bolts
o Install second NordLock and lock nut.
o Torque to 44 ft/lbs
========

Don't torque this yet. You still have a heat shield to install.

Order for this that worked for me:

Check that the frame adapter smoothly aligns with groove on subframe. I had to file a bit on the car to make sure the groove was perfect.
Fettle the stamping to made sure the holes line up with the frame. Nobody is perfect, not Lotus nor Sector. Some light rat-tail file may be required.
Loosely assemble everything. Small bolts have to be completely in and not tightened.
Torque top small bolt.
Now install the heat shield. If the small bolt promises to come out and go back in with no drama, take it out and place the heat shield, washer and bolt. If there is any spring at all the assembly, don't take the lower small bolt out, just loosen it a bit, fit the heat shield behind it and slide the (slotted by yourself with a hacksaw) washer in.
Torque the small bolt.
Torque the big bolt, making sure to align the frame adapter
with groove on subframe.
Turn the big rod by hand until your scribe lines (remember them?) line up.
Take it to the alignmentguy.com
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Phil Ethier Minnesota USA
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 03:26 PM
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Can someone explain the above concept a bit more?

It's great that I don't have to remove the nut and separate the outer ball joints, and for the most part this seems like a very straight forward install, but I am a bit confused as to what I am looking at in the Philethier's photo. I've never messed with a car's suspension before which may be why it isn't making absolute sense to me. My understanding is that I want the new toe links to match in adjustment to the old ones so my alignment isn't completely thrown off, correct? But when you say:

Quote:
Originally Posted by philethier
Turn the big rod by hand until your scribe lines (remember them?) line up.
It tells me that while I am removing the current set up, something is going to move around that needs to be put back. But still, I don't know where exactly I need to scribe in order to put it back to how it was. In the photo I am attaching (Taken from How Tune's instructions) can someone point out the area I need to scribe?
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 03:56 PM
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Here's what I did. Before you take anything apart, take a straight edge/level, put it against the rotor parallel to the floor, and move it forward so it touches the body. Put a piece of tape in that general area, and with a pen make a line on the tape. Now you have a reference point. What I also did, was putting a dial indicator up against the rotor and zeroed it as shown in the picture below, now you have a very accurate reference point.

Good luck
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 07:41 PM
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I wouldn't use a pickle fork on the ball joint. You will most likely mess up the rubber boot. The safest way is with a ball joint separator which you can get at harbor freight for $20 if not less.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRG53 View Post
Here's what I did. Before you take anything apart, take a straight edge/level, put it against the rotor parallel to the floor, and move it forward so it touches the body. Put a piece of tape in that general area, and with a pen make a line on the tape. Now you have a reference point. What I also did, was putting a dial indicator up against the rotor and zeroed it as shown in the picture below, now you have a very accurate reference point.

Good luck [IMG class=inlineimg]/forums/images/LotusTalk_2015/smilies/tango_face_grin.png[/IMG]

Ah ok. So is the goal to basically keep the rotor exactly in its original place before the install? If so, I’m thinking a laser level would work too. Which I have.

Did you remove the outer ball joint when you did this install. Or were you able to do it without removing it? I’d like to bypass removing it as the original post suggests is possible.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 03:46 PM
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Yes, you can do the job without separating the outer balljoint, just loosen the jam nuts on the track rod and unscrew it. The rear rotor can move just like the front rotor, when the track rod is disconnected, so you want it to end up in the same position as before you took it apart in relation to toe in/out. If you do what Philethier or I suggested, you will get it very close, but I strongly recommend you have an alignment done when you are finished.
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Boe Silent Touch muffler
Boe Clam Hinge.
Boe Pro Alloy Radiator.
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Boe Oil catch can.
Boe HP fixed rotors with Ferodo DS 2500 pads.
BWR Street/Track Anti roll bar.
Mocal rear mounted oil cooler.
V2 steering arms,
Nitron Singles 425/550.
InoKinetic DS rear toe links.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRG53 View Post
Yes, you can do the job without separating the outer balljoint, just loosen the jam nuts on the track rod and unscrew it. The rear rotor can move just like the front rotor, when the track rod is disconnected, so you want it to end up in the same position as before you took it apart in relation to toe in/out. If you do what Philethier or I suggested, you will get it very close, but I strongly recommend you have an alignment done when you are finished.
Thanks, makes perfect sense now, I get it. Easy peasy
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 09:59 AM
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I just performed this upgrade and it was incredibly easy. I have a few things to add: along with not having to remove the outer joints, there is no need to even remove the wheels. You do need to jack the vehicle up so the wheel can be manipulated, but once you knock out the inner joint from the frame, the old link can be screwed of, and jam nuts can be removed for reusing.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 12:34 AM
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Just did this install as well. The instructions are awful.

I would like too add for anyone who is going to be doing this. Loosen the nuts and the main link arm BEFORE removing it from the car. After spending 15 minutes trying to get the damn nuts loosened with the link on the ground I realized you could just use the mounting points to get leverage instead of using a wrench on the shaft and a wrench on the nut and hoping for the best.
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