Had Window Trouble On My Elise! - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-02-2006, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve W
I thought I'd add to this post as the moving stop is not the only problem that prevents the window qgoing all the way up. My window suddenly stopped short of the top by about 1 inch overnight. I took the door apart as outlined above and found out the window was stopping about 1" short of the stop and the stop was tight.

A call to Qais at South Bay lead me to a phillips screw at the top of the runner at the end away from the door hinge. This screw can be seen and tightened though the top of the door with the window all the way down. No need to take the door panel off at all. (See picture)
I want to thank Steve W for his post with picture to correct the problem when the window will not go all of the way up (stops about an inch from the top). That happened to me today. This has to be one of the easiest fixes one can do on a car. It is in the 90s and humid around here and the air conditioning works just fine - even with the window down a bit.
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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-02-2006, 04:03 PM
 
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I need to do this fix tomorrow as well. I hope it comes off as easy.
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 04:10 AM
 
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Thanks to Steve again. My problem was not the stop itself as that was still tight. It was the screw inside the runner. This is like a 3 minute fix. It takes longer to get the screw driver and flash light out. It took me longer because I did not comprehend Steve's post at first and started with the door panel rather than looking inside the vertical portion (right near the side mirror mount) of the window runner. I imagine that loose bracket in there is what was causing all my rattleling issues as well. Will verify later today when I go out. Thanks again to Steve, Stan, and the rest of the users that are so knowledgable.
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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-05-2006, 06:30 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve W
I thought I'd add to this post as the moving stop is not the only problem that prevents the window qgoing all the way up. My window suddenly stopped short of the top by about 1 inch overnight. I took the door apart as outlined above and found out the window was stopping about 1" short of the stop and the stop was tight.

A call to Qais at South Bay lead me to a phillips screw at the top of the runner at the end away from the door hinge. This screw can be seen and tightened though the top of the door with the window all the way down. No need to take the door panel off at all. (See picture)

Steve W, thanks for your post. I had the same experience, and you saved me a trip to the dealer! By the way, what is that screw? Anyone? Anyone? Buehler?
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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-06-2006, 08:41 AM
 
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Talking Window glass channel screws

Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMullen
That's the way it should be, but it could be that one guy's job is to tighten the bolts, and another guy comes along later and "paints" all the bolts (and he doesn't pay attention to the tightness of the bolt...
Don't blame the workers, they are for the most part tight when I check these on ''my'' P.D.I. inspection, after 2k to 4k they need retorque,
or 200 hard door slams.
Cheer's Don.
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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-06-2006, 04:17 PM
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Soon after I got my car, I tightened all those screws on the top of the window runners. I made sure they were as tight as I could make them with a screwdriver. A bit under a year later, I noticed one of them is loose again. Hence, I think it is a design issue, not necessarily a worker issue. I suggest using a lightly bonding locktite (or equivalent) on them.
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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006, 12:38 PM
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I had the phillips-head problem (see post 14) in my '06 just a few minutes ago. I was closing up the car and the window suddenly wouldn't go up all the way. Sure enough tightening that screw was all it took to fix it.

The door did start rattling a bit when the window was down about 4 days ago, which I guess in the future will be an indicator to get the screwdriver out.
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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-22-2006, 07:30 PM
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I just took apart my door looking for a rattle. Turns out I was missing the upper guide rail screw in the FRONT of the door. This is located in the little triangle part of the door to which the mirror is mounted. Looks to be accessible through the between the inner and outer rubber trim, same as the rear one, although I took the panel off and in fact removed the entire lever assembly from the inner door panel in an attempt to locate the source. Could not find it in the bottom of the door.

xtn

PS - There was no sign of any vapor barrier in my door at all. I do know that for my front clam replacement the doors were removed and repainted as well. I do not know how far they went with disassembly or if this issue is related at all.

2006 McLareghini Bugatterrari, Storm Titanium... <mods> installed: air horn, Scroth 4-point ASM harnesses, Sector111 halon extinguisher and mounting bracket, Von Hep exhaust and rear panel delete, Pagid brake pads, red Volks CE28n wheels, Toyo RA-1 tires, Nitron SA coilovers, Sector111 (WorksBell) quick-disconnect steering wheel kit. awaiting installation: Scroth "pull-up" lap belts, Sector111 RTD Brace, Tony's heater bypass mod, and dropped steering rack mounting plates. </mods>
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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-23-2006, 05:55 AM
 
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I have not tighten the same guide screw 4 times. To me it looks like the put a screw that is way to short in there. Finally on Saturday we decided to put some lock tight on it. Well of course it couldn't be easy. If you take out the screw to replace it or apply a locker it will fall into the bottom of the door as will the washer. I could not reach it so I had my girlfriend grab it. The hard part is there is a washer goes between the window track and the metal bar that it screws into. You have to find someway to hold that washer in place while you screw the screw through the window track, washer, and metal bracket. PITA!!!!
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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-23-2006, 06:19 AM
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mark.r are you replying to me? I've got to put a washer BEHIND the rail? Between the rail and the door? We're talking about the front rail up in the triangle part of the door, right? A washer goes on the forward side of that?

I'm asking because I'll be sourcing the hardware asap. I wonder is the washer required for proper alignment/spacing of the rail? I mean my window still goes up and down fine and stays in line and everything. It's just that when the window is all the way down, then the rail rattles in place because the screw is missing.

Mine is easer to get to because the glue failed that holds on the rubber window guide that is fitted along the rear and top of the triangle. It pops on and off pretty easily. I'll repair it, but since it makes access to the rail better, I'll wait until the rail repair is complete. I've got little bent nose pliers and a variety of picks and tweezers to work with. Maybe a dab of lock tight on the end of a pick will hold the washer in place to start the screw?

I await your reply.

xtn

2006 McLareghini Bugatterrari, Storm Titanium... <mods> installed: air horn, Scroth 4-point ASM harnesses, Sector111 halon extinguisher and mounting bracket, Von Hep exhaust and rear panel delete, Pagid brake pads, red Volks CE28n wheels, Toyo RA-1 tires, Nitron SA coilovers, Sector111 (WorksBell) quick-disconnect steering wheel kit. awaiting installation: Scroth "pull-up" lap belts, Sector111 RTD Brace, Tony's heater bypass mod, and dropped steering rack mounting plates. </mods>
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post #31 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-26-2006, 07:36 PM
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I agree, I think it is a design issue. The first time I had a problem, the door developed a severe rattle, the window didn't go all the way up, and a bolt & washer fell out of the hole in the bottom of the door. 6 months and numerous door closings later, the rattle reappeared and I heard a part fall off inside. Had the dealer fix it both times. May need a healthy dose of Loc-tite. I would recommend an inspection and retightening every 6 months or so. Passenger side, not so much for me since it is rarely used.

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post #32 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-26-2006, 07:50 PM
 
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Mine has been nothing but the passenger side, not sure why. Last weekend I put some locktite blue on it. We will see if that helps.
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post #33 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-27-2006, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark.r
Mine has been nothing but the passenger side, not sure why. Last weekend I put some locktite blue on it. We will see if that helps.
Uh... Let me ask the question again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xtn
mark.r are you replying to me? I've got to put a washer BEHIND the rail? Between the rail and the door? We're talking about the front rail up in the triangle part of the door, right? A washer goes on the forward side of that?

2006 McLareghini Bugatterrari, Storm Titanium... <mods> installed: air horn, Scroth 4-point ASM harnesses, Sector111 halon extinguisher and mounting bracket, Von Hep exhaust and rear panel delete, Pagid brake pads, red Volks CE28n wheels, Toyo RA-1 tires, Nitron SA coilovers, Sector111 (WorksBell) quick-disconnect steering wheel kit. awaiting installation: Scroth "pull-up" lap belts, Sector111 RTD Brace, Tony's heater bypass mod, and dropped steering rack mounting plates. </mods>
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post #34 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-27-2006, 06:44 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtn
Uh... Let me ask the question again.
Sorry, this is the first time I have read your post. For clarification I found the following.

I figure it would be easier to take the screw out and apply a locker. Not true it was bitch but I can not think of another way to do it. If your rubber seal is removable it may indeed be easier, mine was not. Once I pulled the screw out of the black window guide it of course fell to the bottom of the door along with the washer. I had to unbolt and remove the inside door handle to reach the screw/washer. That was not too much of an issue. After applying the locktite the problem is getting the screw through small opening/crack. Again you may not have that issue. It was at this point I starting tighening the screw and realize something was not right. If the washer is on the outside of the window track (flush against the screw head) the screw cannot be "sunk" so that the head is flush with the track. If inserted that way I can't see how the windwo will smoothly go up and down or even at all because effectively you have a "speed bump" on an otherwise smooth "road". That is when I realized that the washer was originally between the black window track and the gold bracket that it mounts too. I did look at it at carefully and still can't see why they have it there in the first place because I can't see what it is actually doing. At any rate, I felt that I should put it back so I did. I was able to use some of the sticky glue like stuff from the vapor barrier on a small scew driver to get edge of the washer between the track and the bracket. I then used the screw driver to ease it towards the hole. Remember this is all being done through a little slit in the window track. I was able reach my hand threw the opening where the door handle would be and push the black window track against the bracket effectively holding the washer in place. It also helped to have some of the glue residue from the vapor barrier still on the washer. I continued to use the screw driver to poistion the washer in place so that my fiance could get the screw to tighen down through the washer.

Sorry so long but it is a bit hard to explain with out a diagram. Sorry for not getting back to you. Send me a PM if you need more clarification.
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post #35 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-09-2006, 11:02 AM
 
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Great thread everyone! Thanks for posting the picture and instructions. I did this today to repair my window and it was a 30 second fix. My window stopped rolling up all the way after driving around with the top off and the windows rolled down. Thanks again as I am generally **not** handy!
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post #36 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 07:21 PM
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ooh... I love the "quick and easy" solutions I find on this forum!!! many thanks to those who have gone before me and were nice enough to post about their troubles!

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post #37 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 11:34 AM
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Steve W.... Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Read your post - that stupid little screw was almost completely out. If only I had read your post before ripping the door apart!
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