Seat Rebuild with Kemmler Air2Gel Foam - Page 5 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #81 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 01:08 PM
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I'm curious, what are the "fasteners" mentioned in the first post? I tried reaching behind the seat but couldn't feel anything. Do these just pop out when I start peeling off the center seat pad?
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post #82 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 04:38 PM
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IIRC, they secure the top left and top right corners. Look closely at the first pic in post one and you'll see the holes. Pry carefully.

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post #83 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 04:51 PM
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Reach with your fingers around the top of the 'pad' that detaches. You will feel a hard plastic plate. Pull gently but with constant pressure on that plate, the fasteners are on the plate that hold it against the seat.

If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough.
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post #84 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 05:28 PM
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Thanks, that makes sense! One more thing, does the center seat pad come off entirely? Or do you leave it connected to the bottom while you're gluing the foam in? I'm assuming it comes off entirely, but can't really tell from the pictures. How do you reconnect this after? Are there fasteners on the bottom as well?

Thanks and sorry for the noob questions! Want to make sure I fully understand this before I give it a shot.
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post #85 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 06:07 PM
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It is glued on Yes, you can take the whole thing off, much easier to work on and glue the padding back in. I used contact cement to glue the leather to the padding, then the whole 'seat cushin' back onto the chair. For the front 'flap,' the trick is to push the 'butt curve' in, let the rest of the seat dry, THEN cement the front flap down, otherwise you end up with a bulgy chair.

You can get contact cement and the cheapest paint brush you can find at your local hardware store, it was less than $10 for both at Lowes for me.

If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough.
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post #86 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 07:27 PM
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I took the seats out of the car first thing. I then peeled the leather off of the padding and the plastic seat starting from the bottom and going up the seat. When I reached the top buttons- fasterners you're asking about I just folded the leather over then on the top of the seat. I then took the NEW padding and pushed it up under the buttons and the glued it all onto the seat going downward. . I then glued the leather back in place especially taking care at the bottom of the seat where it folds under the seat area. It has held and worked fine for 2 years now... I used a dense padding but not as dense as the air gel type as shown. Good luck and enjoy the mods.

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post #87 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 09:06 PM
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Thanks for all the info! I forgot about removing the seats... was reading about that earlier in the thread. I've never removed them before, so I need to get the right tools first (found a thread for that already). This is going to be a big learning process for me.

I'm curious if the passenger seat is very hard to remove? Seems like the driver's seat is a little easier because you can slide it forward.
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post #88 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-17-2011, 08:25 AM
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I took the Drivers side seat out first. The passenger side seat is a little more difficult. You'll need a longer extension in order to reach the two back bolts. And a good flashlight in order to see them well. Watch carefully how the bolts come out and get them back into the mounting holes just like they came out. Not hard . I believe mine had some shims on the bottom of the seat rails that were between the rails and the threaded mounting holes.

The hardest part for me was getting the seat belt straps off and back onto the sides of the seats as they need to be taken off in order to get the seats out onto the ground in order to work on them.

I heated the seat up with a hair dryer so that the contact/rubber cement would seal faster as I pushed the leather down onto the plastic seats. The padding makes a heck of alot of more Butt Comfort than the regular seats.

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post #89 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 10:24 AM
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Thanks for all that info, chazzer and loki007! When you guys removed the leather, did your existing foam fall apart or did it hold up? I'm trying to figure out if it would hold up enough to be able to do it without removing the seats...

I also like the idea of gluing the foam to the leather cushion (as loki007 mentioned), then gluing the rest to the chair... seems like a good way to accurately place the foam.
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post #90 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 10:52 AM
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The only foam I had was glued onto the seat pan itself, and it tore pretty well when I took it off. I replaced some of the foam with memory foam from an old pillow. The only problem with the double glue is that if something is wrong, it will stay wrong Use carpet tape first, drive around some and make sure you like the placement, then glue it in. Make sure you get the leather 'pad' shaped right to the seat before you glue the front flap back down! I did it in two steps: glued the curve and put some weight on it (cinder block or ammo boxes are a great size/weight), then glue the front flap the next morning. I tried it all at once three times before I figured it out

And always glad to help!! I have some lower-back issues and this did help with my comfort, although I do think I will be moving to the Probax seats soon.

If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough.
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post #91 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 11:45 AM
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Good to know. Yeah, I have lower-back issues as well (two slipped discs) so support is pretty important. I currently use a little pillow or my coat as lumbar support (since the seat lumbar support is too high).

Can we get a Probax retrofit, or do we need to buy totally new seats?
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post #92 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 12:51 PM
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Was just reading on Kemmler's site that they recommend combining a high density top and a regular density bottom for shoe insoles. I'm curious if anyone has tried this on our seats?

It seems like most people used the HD material on the bottom, and then layered regular density on top. Has anybody tried the opposite?

I'm thinking of trying a regular density seat cushion and lower back support, with a 3/8" HD layer on top of everything.
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post #93 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 02:47 PM
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I switched some memory foam as well as the regular density. The HD was a little too firm for me.

If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough.
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post #94 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-20-2011, 04:07 AM
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I want to remind this thread that you can flip the lumbar bag and lower the area of support. I did this rebuild on the seats and flipped the pad and I am very happy with the results.

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post #95 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-20-2011, 06:55 AM
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Yep, planning on flipping the bladder!
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post #96 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-20-2011, 10:09 AM
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Ialso flipped the bladder over and then re-glued it feels much better on the lower back now. I also tried the HD foam and found it to be too hard on my botttom. You can always place some on the seat as is and then drive around first to feel how it might feel with it glued in. Experiment and you'll see what is best for you. I got my padding from a re-uphostery shop, for couches and chairs etc. that actually gave me a large piece that they had laying around. Have fun.

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post #97 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-21-2011, 10:24 AM
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Looks like my foam shipped today. Looking forward to comfy seats and better support soon!
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post #98 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-21-2011, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neurowave View Post
Looks like my foam shipped today. Looking forward to comfy seats and better support soon!
Note the instructions on the contact cement It needs to go on a 65F or warmer surface. They aren't kidding, I rebuilt my seats and they're flapping in the breeze because the %$#%*( cement didn't bond!! Waiting until it is warmer...

J

If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough.
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post #99 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 12:21 PM
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Foam showed up yesterday! Going to tackle this tomorrow or Sunday. Loki, I'll keep a hair dryer handy.

One thing I'm still curious about:

Most people seem to recommend using carpet tape for the foam, and then gluing (or contact cementing) the leather pad of the seat back onto the foam. Isn't this a permanent solution? Why use the carpet tape if you're going to glue the foam to the pad anyway?
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post #100 of 116 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 06:32 PM
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So I just opened up the package and it looks like my foam is blue. Everybody else's looks either white or tan... invoice says:

SHOCKtec Air2Gel HD Blue Standard 3/8" Thickness
SHOCKtec "Blue" Air2Gel HD **Double Abraded* 1/8" thickness

I ordered from the link on the first page of this thread. Anybody seen this blue foam before?
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