Sounds like a good shop.
But, it's owner's responsibility to keep track of req'd maintenance. (I use a Word doc for each machine.)
Brake fluid looks "dirty" because rubber bits from seals get into the fluid.
BF is hygroscopic; absorbs water from atmosphere. Water is NG for seals.
I do the complete drain/refill annually.
How to Bleed Brakes (& clutch):
Note that many people disagree with my method, so judge for yourself.
Taught to me by semi-famous Toyota engineer, who built championship winning cars and bikes.
1. Get Sears brake bleed kit (canister, hoses, adaptors for bleed valves) and their hand vacuum pump. Kits there have both components. Inexpensive.
2. Pour a little b/f in canister, hook up hoses and use the tightest adaptor you can.
3. Pump vacuum to 20-25Ē with bleeder valve closed.
4. Tap caliper with small hammer or similar. This releases the air bubbles clinging to the caliper into the stream. WHATEVER method you use, DONíT skip this step.
5. Open bleed valve.
6. When vacuum is almost (but not completely) gone, close bleed valve.
7. Check level in master cylinder. Do this often.
8. Repeat as needed.
*Never got a firmer pedal using any other method.
*Requires only one person. Your wife/so will thank us both.
*You will not be pushing the piston in m/c into the rough area normally unused, thereby not prematurely wearing that seal. (Clutch m/cs are always used to full range.)
Note: On my Elise, I neednít even remove the wheels.