I used to Solo I a long time ago.... Here is what I did. It was not a Lotus, but I did get it to be the fastest ASP car in the region without cheating.
1. I assume you have good tires, pads, fluid and disks. It is all a matter of personal preference. I like Castrol SRF, Performance friction (actually offeres specific compounds for front and rear brakes) and two-pice disks or reasonable quality and construction i.e. Brembo.
2. The combo master has a proportioning valve built in. So putting in another valve would be a very poor idea. The proportioning mechanism in the master can be removed. The master will continue to work with equal pressure to back and front. You need to find someone that knows how to do that.
3. Now you can install a prop valve. I think, if you install it out of reach of driver, it is legal. You can practice and pre-set it, anyway. AP unit on EliseParts is precious
. Tilton and Wilwood make similar parts. Check out Jegs for about $80.
4. Evans sells a brake dealy valve that you can plumb into the rear brake circuit. It is worth about 1/2 to 1 sec per lap, because it will allow you to run more rear brake.
5. If you do not like the pedal feel. you maybe able to find a larger combo master cylinder with the same flange as stock and replace the stock one. I used to run a Chevy truck one... It had a larger fluid reservoir which prevented the fluid from splashing around too much, as well.
6. You should leave ABS in until you start feeling that you are faster then ABS in detecting impending brake lock-up. You will know when that happens.
7. With larger brakes, delay valves, etc. the brake balance ands the way the car takes a set into a corner will change. I had to re-adjust tire pressures and alignment and the sway bars....
There is nothing wrong with dual-circuit racing brake system witha balance bar, though.
Thanks so much for the reply.
I'm running in XP due to some other mods so most anything goes and I don't need to worry about stock class stuff.
I have adjustable shocks and have them set so they do help. I also have mismatched pads with sticky pads in the rear and less so in the front and it helps too but it's still not what it should be. If I ease onto the brakes to encourage weight shift things are better but that is just burning time in solo and would love to be able to get more out of the rear brakes and make the thing drop anchor a bit better.
I was under the impression that one could not use a prop valve along with ABS. The Elise parts site say 'will fit all Elise' but I'd like to know more about the prop valve and ABS. I've written him and asked and also asked the folks that make the part that Elise parts sells.
I have a few paths in mind and don't know what would be best -
* disconnect ABS and install a prop valve on the front circuit and dial it back as needed until I get a mix of front and rear lock up. Then if the valve will work with ABS reconnect it and be happy.
* disconnect ABS and install the Sector 111 bracket in the rear so that I can run a front caliper in the rear. Then install a prop valve in the rear circuit and dial back the now too powerful rears until I get proper balance and then reconnect the ABS if appropriate.
* rip out the entire booster/master cylinder set up and put in a dual circuit set up with a balance bar and call it a day - this option is pie in the sky and I really don't want to go down that road unless I really have to.
Does that make sense to anyone other than me?