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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-11-2018 09:08 AM
FistHammer
Quote:
Originally Posted by exigegus View Post
It is the connections that fail, not truly the resistors, there is a thread about sneaking in through the foam seal.
I did I snuck through, anyone in the Pittsburgh area needs a surgeon take your clam off n give me a call

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/f...3/#post5853314
06-05-2018 04:01 AM
exigegus It is the connections that fail, not truly the resistors, there is a thread about sneaking in through the foam seal.
06-05-2018 03:46 AM
FistHammer Sooo, I have my clam off, and I noticed my fan does not work on the third setting, works for 1 and 2. Guessing its a bad connection all together because the 3rd setting should be full power no resistors.. Have not attempted this yet, do not want to unhook the ac system really, I thought a read about a work around somewhere.
07-31-2017 09:32 AM
mavster
....dont forget to pressure test

Oh and I strongly suggest you pressure test the high-side up to 150/160psi before vacuuming and recharging and putting the clam back on, just a vacuum test is not sufficient. Ask me how I know
07-31-2017 09:25 AM
mavster Yes, requires a discharge of A/C system, remove the lines going to the receiver/dryer and the HVAC box. When you replace you need new O-rings and recharge system. A considerably involved project, I suggest some reading here before proceeding so you know what you're getting into, getting everything back in place is a major PITA. The whole job makes clam off/on look simple.
07-31-2017 05:31 AM
Giantmcm I just did mine this last spring. It was easier to remove in 2 pieces.
07-31-2017 03:40 AM
exigegus At the fender end, two big wrenches
At the heater box the small allen screw holds both the lines to the block
07-30-2017 08:56 PM
chiarov So I have my clam off for a crash structure repair job and decided to have a go at checking out the resistor pack. But I can't get that damned HVAC box out of there, do you have to disconnect the huge AC line on the passenger side up near the door?
05-25-2015 11:25 AM
Roundabout Use an AirLift if you just want to add coolant and be done. Since the tool will work on all of your cars, it's well worth the investment to never have trapped air in the cooling system.
02-09-2015 09:29 AM
Washburn Lots of bleeding both the front and rear bleeders worked for me. It took a while....be diligent and work your way front and back.
02-09-2015 06:54 AM
mavster Glad it's worked out OMO. I got an airlift off ebay for my next coolant change, dealing with that is too much of a pain.
02-08-2015 04:43 PM
Doge Bleeding these cars can be a process.
02-08-2015 10:12 AM
OddManOut Just to add some more information, I've bled the system per section KH.3 of the service manual several times. There was quite a bit of air in the system and was able to add additional coolant several times. Now the car heats up and hovers at about 200 degrees indefinitely whereas before I started bleeding the fans would be coming on. For reference its about 32 degrees outside. The radiator and all hoses that I can touch are hot except for the ones going in and out of the heater. According to the routing diagrams, water should be going through these hoses whether or not the t-stat is open or closed. I'm stumped.

Edit: Bleed it a few more times, and suddenly there was more air escaping. Heat seems to work fine now. So glad it was this and not something broken on re-assembly.
02-07-2015 02:14 PM
OddManOut So after reassembling everything, but before putting the clam back on I started the car to make sure everything functions correctly. The fan blows more strongly than it ever did and the new flap actuator switches positions quickly. The bad news is, there's no heat. I let the car idle for about 20 minutes, but no sign of heat from the vents. I can verify that the flaps are moving, but the coolant lines to and from the heater core, as well as the radiator, remain cold. I did pre-fill the heater with fresh coolant and topped off the system from the engine bay. The temp gauge registered 200 degrees before shut it off. I know it's cold here in the northeast, but I would think I should be detecting some heat from the system after this long. Any thoughts as to what might be amiss?
01-29-2015 08:37 PM
Simplify Agreed, if you have a vacuum and gauges that is a better method.
01-29-2015 06:41 AM
mavster I don't agree with the partial recharge approach, not sure what this buys you if you don't have gauges and if the system isn't under full pressure? Plus, wherever you take it they will have to evacuate it in order to correctly measure the refrigerant charge, so $25+ can of refrigerant down the drain.

If you want to do a just a basic leak test, I suggest vacuuming it down to full vacuum (29hg) and leaving it for 12-24 hours, but again you need a vacuum and gauges. Best thing to do otherwise to ensure success is use new o-rings, oil them properly and torque the connections properly. I found the torque specs published in the service manual somewhere. It is VERY difficult with where some of the connections are, but I got pretty close using a standard torque wrench and some crows foot attachments.
01-28-2015 11:28 PM
Simplify Unless you want to also recharge it partially to test that the system is sealed while you have the car apart and everything is easy to access. It seems like some connections would be "interesting" to try to tighten with the clam in place.
01-26-2015 07:34 AM
mavster
Quote:
Originally Posted by OddManOut View Post
This seems obvious, but I seem compelled to ask it anyways... Can I assume that there is no point in adding any PAG at this time if I'm going to have the system vacuumed and recharged?
If you are replacing certain components Lotus has a published list of qty of PAG to add, ie. if you are replacing the dryer unit. Other than that, if you are having the system vacuumed/recharged by a shop, you don't need to do anything, they should add oil/dye as necessary. If the system was evacuated properly you shouldn't need any additional.
01-26-2015 06:22 AM
OddManOut This seems obvious, but I seem compelled to ask it anyways... Can I assume that there is no point in adding any PAG at this time if I'm going to have the system vacuumed and recharged?
01-20-2015 04:40 PM
OddManOut
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplify View Post
With the key in the on position, the blower speed control should work.
Replacing the power cable and giving it nice clean contacts may even increase the speed, mine seems more like 0,2,3,4 now.
Aha. it does work after all. In my fear of breaking something I forgot that "on" is two key clicks not one. Yay, time to re-assemble.
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