|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-15-2013 02:13 PM|
|Shoof||Nothing's going to happen if you installed the oem pp bolts back....replacing them is just a recommendation. I too just replaced the clutch and flywheel on my Exige, I went with the ACT HD-SS and Comp Clutches lighter steel flywheel. I also used the oem bolts with thread lock to make it secure, you should be fine. FWIW, my oem clutch had 6500 miles (how many miles i have on my car)of wear on it, I decided to change it by choice. Only thing I would have suggested was to have changed the flywheel while you were at it. BIG difference in the way the car revs.|
|05-13-2013 01:34 PM|
|Westrock||I would totally recommend removing the clam to do this. Not that you have to, but you would be amazed at how much access you get. It is not very hard to remove the clam, it will add several hours of work though. But it is straight forward work.|
|05-13-2013 08:03 AM|
|zygotesoup||Dude, fantastic write up! Bookmarked.|
|05-12-2013 09:42 AM|
Originally Posted by dma550 View Post
I'm not sure if using the old bolts would really give you a problem though if they went back in fine.
|05-12-2013 05:24 AM|
|dma550||Normally all PP bolts are "stretch" bolts and they stretch as part of the torque process, right? Last clutch I did was a 911 turbo and I remember having to reorder a full set.|
|05-11-2013 07:13 PM|
|wek120||Woa wait what? you need new pressure plate bolts? I installed the ACT HD-SS pressure plate and street disc earlier this year, and just re-used the stock bolts with a little red threadlocker. Is that bad?|
|05-11-2013 03:35 PM|
It's really convenient that you just made this how-to a month before I had to change my clutch.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!
I can't even explain how easy your guide made this for me. Took a few days to do it since I was just doing it after work but it really wasn't that hard. And I've never swapped a clutch before!
|04-18-2013 04:02 PM|
|Nessal||I will be using this guide when i do my clutch. Thanks!|
|04-18-2013 03:30 PM|
I just thought I'd follow up on the break in period. At the very beginning the clutch felt VERY grabby. I was getting quite a bit of chatter at very slow speeds where you have to slip the clutch a lot (like pulling into your driveway, or the pedestrian filled parking lot at work). It made quite a bit of noise and you could tell the engine was flapping around a bit.
It also HATED slipping when theres a significant difference in engine and trans rpm (like if you let clutch in, and the motor idles down, then you try to get it back into gear because the light changes - like you know... when you should rev match).
I'm happy to report it's characteristics are becoming much closer to stock after a few hundred miles. I almost feels less grabby, and it's quite a bit more forgiving at low speeds. had me worried for a bit, I really didn't want to take it back out so soon.
|04-09-2013 05:25 AM|
|da40flyer||Excellent write up!|
|04-08-2013 07:47 PM|
Ah, makes sense.
Originally Posted by addertooth View Post
|04-08-2013 12:55 PM|
|SyTyArchives||Nice! Also somehow I missed the existence of said uberpost.|
|04-08-2013 07:16 AM|
Added to uberpost:
|04-08-2013 04:54 AM|
|David Craig||That is a really impressive "How To" article. Well done!|
|04-08-2013 04:46 AM|
|Jim-C||Nice job !|
|04-08-2013 04:31 AM|
Yes, I don't have direct experience of it puking gear oil, but assumed it would given that the axles are bathed in it inside the trans.
Thanks for the kind words. I still need to finish up adding in torque specs.
|04-08-2013 04:19 AM|
|addertooth||He probably drained it so when the half-shafts were pulled, it would not leak fluid all over the place.|
|04-07-2013 10:54 PM|
|nate379||Why did you drain the oil out of the trans?|
|04-07-2013 08:05 PM|
Really nice writeup.
Bookmarked for when the time comes to replace mine...
|04-07-2013 01:49 PM|
|Doge||Awesome write up.|
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