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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-23-2019 07:50 AM
Obeisance
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6TVRs+ View Post
Now the question, the next day I went to give my visiting brother a ride. Probably @ 5-6 mins at best and when I finally saw the temp display come on, I got on it and the cam change started, but fell flat/ rev limiter hit @ 7500? I thought "OK, nice protection", drove another few minutes and then it would go to the 8K+ range and seemed normal to my newbie observations. Now that I know to not do that again, does anyone think I may have damaged a cam already? Is it worth pulling the cam cover to check first?

TIA
Bill
i think that's just the normal progression of the redline during warmup. i don't think you damaged anything. but it never hurts to pull the cam cover and inspect the state of things.

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25...4/#post5958892
08-23-2019 07:49 AM
jds62f the only way to know if you have damage is to look. It is really easy to check on an NA motor... if you haven't looked at the cams before, not a bad idea to look at them.
08-23-2019 07:39 AM
6TVRs+ Bump to see if Kevin has an answer yet and a newbie (as such) question.

I bought my 05 NA Elise about 5-6 weeks ago and pretty much have only driven it home and gave my brother a ride around the neighborhood the next day. @120 miles total. On the original test drive, we had some "city traffic" for at least 8-10 minutes, plus the original, start, idle, talk prior to test drive. At roughly I think would be @15 minutes the seller said "you should be good to go now" when I was ready to push a bit harder. I figured he was just being conservative on warm up. (Not knowing anything about the oiling/warm oil issues) on these cars. Felt good, etc. Drive home 2 weeks later had lots of stop and go and I noticed at one point the temp over 200F before I got on it.

The owner had installed the Mishimoto with a 200F thermo.

Now the question, the next day I went to give my visiting brother a ride. Probably @ 5-6 mins at best and when I finally saw the temp display come on, I got on it and the cam change started, but fell flat/ rev limiter hit @ 7500? I thought "OK, nice protection", drove another few minutes and then it would go to the 8K+ range and seemed normal to my newbie observations. Now that I know to not do that again, does anyone think I may have damaged a cam already? Is it worth pulling the cam cover to check first?

TIA
Bill
06-18-2019 04:44 PM
Kevin Michael A quick follow up on this. Matt at MWR thinks this won't work well as he believes the temp sensor has to have some oil flow around it to work well. So i think i will put the temp right in the plate, run a line from the OEM pressure sensor tap in the block to a remote tee for the OEM and after-market pressure gauges, and revert to the OEM drain plug. Another round of parts from Summit Racing! Let's see if I can find a BSPT to 4AN adapter.

I am wondering now if having the OP sensor right in the plate, which must bounce around, accounts for my oil pressure gauge fluctuating so much. I'll soon have an answer.
06-15-2019 05:21 PM
Kevin Michael Thank you!
06-15-2019 03:41 AM
exigegus pretty common setup for gauges
06-14-2019 07:02 PM
Kevin Michael A bump on a not-so-old thread.

Any reason not to run a braided line from the NPT port on the Mish plate to a remote Tee and use that Tee to feed a pressure and a temp gauge?

I had my temp sensor in an MWR replacement oil pan drain plug that has a bore in the middle to accept the sensor. Snapped off at last oil change (at 20 ft lbs). Maybe I shouldn't be surprised. It does after all have a big hole in it so strength is compromised. I had the pressure sensor on the Mish port but it is biggish and i worry a bit about vibration. The hose into the Mish plate wouldn't have that issue and the fittings would be a lot less crowded than they are now.
01-07-2019 04:25 PM
kapps I decided to pick up the MWR upgrade. See my other thread here. I haven't gotten any responses yet but after a couple days thinking about it (and waiting on there 12mm hex socket), I decided that the MWR setup is what I'm going with even though it does have a couple shortcomings.
01-07-2019 03:49 PM
Robocop305 I had the same issue and put back the stock union. How much did you had to reduce the MWR union in order to fit the Mishimoto Plate?
01-07-2019 05:18 AM
Kevin Michael
Quote:
Originally Posted by kapps View Post
Bringing this thread back alive... I'm getting ready to install the Mishimoto sandwich plate onto my Elise. Is there a torque spec for the union bolt? A little searching around Mishimoto's site mentions 35 ft*lbs for this bolt and 25 ft*lbs for the M20 adapter fittings. Does 35 ft*lbs sound right for the 2ZZ?

Also, on the topic of the union bolt, is the MWR kit a smart upgrade at this point before I put everything back together?
I put the MWR union bolt back in and think it is much more substantial (and hence better) than stock. I had to turn the part down ever so slightly to get it to fit the plate. I think the Mishimoto plate I got had a very slightly undersized hole. Others (everyone else) have not had that problem.
01-02-2019 09:39 AM
exigegus Missed the question. a little late

Equus from Amazon, cheap stuff but seems to work well enough

I wanted small diameter

I think this one



01-02-2019 08:35 AM
steelypip
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Michael View Post
Exigegus, the dual sender sounds intriguing. Do you remember where you sourced that?
FYI, the dual sender for idiot light and pressure gauge is usually a VDO part. Hot rod suppliers like Summit and Jegs list the variants. They are available in different pressure ranges for the gauge sender, different turn on pressures for the idiot light, and several different fitting threads. I haven't found a BSP variant, but the world is full of adapters. Of course, if you've already bought your gauge, you get to figure out if the full scale resistance matches the sender at the appropriate pressure.


https://www.vdo-gauges.com/sensors/p...g-contact.html
01-01-2019 11:27 AM
kapps Bringing this thread back alive... I'm getting ready to install the Mishimoto sandwich plate onto my Elise. Is there a torque spec for the union bolt? A little searching around Mishimoto's site mentions 35 ft*lbs for this bolt and 25 ft*lbs for the M20 adapter fittings. Does 35 ft*lbs sound right for the 2ZZ?

Also, on the topic of the union bolt, is the MWR kit a smart upgrade at this point before I put everything back together?
07-06-2018 01:58 PM
Kevin Michael You were able to use the Monkey Wrench union upgrade on the Mishimoto? I couldn't squeeze mine in so reverted to the stock union. Maybe I wasn't trying hard enough. ;^)
07-04-2018 04:41 PM
Kevin Michael The stock pressure sender unit does look to be a BSPT. I know this because when I tried to install a BSP (non-tapered) fitting into that spot on the block today (to hook up to a braided line and a remote T), I was unable to do so. Granted, my wrenching skills are modest at best (it took me a few tries to get the stock sensor back in after I gave up on the new fitting), but I think only a BSPT will work. The taper on the stock unit is actually pretty obvious on visual inspection.

I did get the Mishimoto in. Thanks Exigegus for the idea and the fittings! Once I get my temp sensor hooked up (at the pan), I'll try to make some data to share.

Note: The MWR upgrade union bolt is just a tad too thick to fit in the Mishimoto, so I put the stock one back in. I may at some point try to turn a bit off the MWR fitting on my lathe to get it to fit. Does anything think that would be a mistake? I.e., would it mess up the temper or something like that? It is very close so I won't need to shave off much.

Exigegus, the dual sender sounds intriguing. Do you remember where you sourced that?

Or maybe I should just leave the stock OP alone and attach my new OP gauge sensor directly to the Mishimoto? Only one of the ports is accessible, but I only need one. That will vibrate too, but it cannot be any worse I imagine than what the stock OP sensor is doing and that hasn't fallen out yet (although now that I have uninstalled and reinstalled it, maybe it will!). So one sensor vibrating is ok? I am after all putting the temp sensor unit right on the oil pan plug. Are we just trying to avoid attaching to the block some massive contraption with a T and multiple sensors?

Many thanks. And Happy July 4th!

Kevin
06-25-2018 10:23 AM
JFHughes08088
Quote:
Originally Posted by kapps View Post
So I picked up a Mishimoto sandwich plate, 200 degree thermostat, and fittings (thanks exigegus). Last night, I pulled the original thermostat and put them both in a pot on the stove with a thermocouple and verified their opening temperatures. The 185 opens at 185 and the 200 opens at 200. I'm starting to think about where to add pressure and temperature sensors. I plan on putting the temp sensor on the 1/8 npt port on the sandwich plate. Has anybody tapped a 2nd port on the sandwich plate for pressure? There's .350 of thickness in the circular part which should be enough for 1/8 npt.

It seems like this would be preferable to adding a tee at the stock oil pressure switch port on the block or installing a sender relocation kit. The relocation kit solves the risk of vibration failing the adapter but adds a bunch of new connections that could leak.

Am I on the right path or is there a better way?
I tapped for a 2nd sensor. Went through the bottom of where the thermostat bottoms.
06-24-2018 09:25 AM
Robocop305 I decided to use the "T" system and remote mounting the sender. Also, I think someone on this forum posted a sandwich plate that was drilled for the oil pressure sender.
06-24-2018 09:19 AM
exigegus It is taper as I recall

I bought a dual sender and wired that into where the stock light goes, so I have a gauge and the stock OP light with no T.

If you are nervous about even a gauge sender on the block, I would not stress over the various joints, as long as they are done correctly
06-24-2018 07:37 AM
kapps My only hesitation with relocating the stock sender and mounting a tee is the number of connections.

block-> BSP to AN adapter-> AN line-> AN tee or adapter and NPT tee-> whatever adapters are required to reconnect the factory BSP OP switch plus the new NPT sender.

Also, is the stock oil pressure switch BSPP with sealing washer or BSPT?
06-24-2018 06:26 AM
tomrev
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomrev View Post
I think you are on the right path. I have always used a remote location for the OP sender, and using teflon paste on the hose adaptors and not overly torquing things, I have never had any leaks. As others have pointed out, the heavy chunk of OP sender can really be a vibrating time bomb, and is easy to soft mount anywhere it is convenient, and connect with the needed length AN -3, or -4 braided line. You can get various lengths of line, complete with the female ends for $12-20. at places like Speedway, or Pegasus.
This is on my LFX Miata; pretty easy to locate.
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