|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-18-2019 11:15 AM|
|waddy||Thanks to everyone for all the help! Especially you Jet blast! Immobilizer bypassed, and its starting up every time now. It appears the immobilizer was rolling around back there for who knows how long, someone hadn't properly secured it, it was stuck on with tape and it appeared to fall off. Not 100% sure the issue is fixed since it was so intermittent but time will tell.|
|07-17-2019 11:00 AM|
|Jetblast||My guess is that it is the immobilizer. You can check power at the starter button, with the key turned on there should be battery voltage at the green wire (fuse F13). If you have battery voltage at the start button, then it almost has to be the immobilizer; which means it's time to pull the seats. Things at the starter seem OK for now considering that things upstream of it aren't reading correctly.|
|07-17-2019 09:43 AM|
Uh right now we are getting 0 voltage on the 4,6 terminals while key in and pressing button? Is it something with the start switch? Both the immobilizer and starter decided to die, but we have voltage at starter so just immobilzer? Or prehaps its the starter button? Does anyone know what voltage I should be getting with the button?
Also when we had it unplugged we could tell when the button was being pressed but it was loosing voltage ie the 4-3.7v, but probing the wires now with it in we aren't getting anything.
|07-16-2019 03:02 PM|
|07-16-2019 02:45 PM|
Can you try to probe the wires on the multi-function relay unit while they are still plugged in? That way the circuit isn't interrupted during the troubleshooting. Terminal 6 on the MFRU should be the crank signal from the start button (it passes through the immobilizer on its way to the MFRU). If you don't have voltage coming to that terminal, my next check would be the immobilizer, here is a thread about how to disable it if that is your wish.
|07-16-2019 01:44 PM|
Oh boy, with RMC2 unplugged, trying to start the car, We have 3.7V on 4 and 0V on 6 while attempting to crank. We do not have battery voltage at either 4 or 6 when the vehicle is acting up. 4 reacts directly to the pressing of the start button, but we are losing voltage somewhere in line? We have 0V on the starter signal wire when acting up, with 12.4V battery voltage present. Are we not getting full voltage since we have rmc2 unplugged which powers up the ECU?
Also was the 4 on the rmc2 was the wire to the ecu or did you mean 5 on rmc1?
|07-12-2019 12:59 PM|
Originally Posted by waddy View Post
If you don't have battery voltage at terminal 6 when the key is in the run position and the button is pushed, there is something wrong with either the immobilizer, starter switch or wiring.
If you don't have battery voltage at terminal 4 but you do have it at terminal 6 when the key is in the run position and the button is pushed, then you have a problem with the multi-function relay unit.
If you have battery voltage at both terminals 4 and 6 when the button is pushed, then you need to check the connection at the starter. At the starter, there will be a couple of wires, a large battery cable that should have power all the time; there will also be a smaller 2mm black wire, when the key is in the run position and the starter button is pushed, there should be battery voltage at the 2mm black wire.
It shouldn't be too hard to reach the multi-function relay unit from below the car if the engine access panel is removed, if you have a clam hinge you should be able to reach it from the top but it's pretty tight. The starter isn't very accessible, hence my suggestion to probe the relay unit first.
Good luck, let us know what you find.
|07-12-2019 11:41 AM|
|07-09-2019 01:39 PM|
|Jetblast||Unless you have a rear clam hinge it might be a coin toss as to which one would be easiest to troubleshoot. Unless you have a rear clam hinge you'll probably have to jack the car and pull the engine access panel to check to see if the starter is getting a signal from the ignition switch. To access the immobilizer you'll have to pull the seats and rear speaker panel to gain access to the immobilizer. Neither is particularly hard, just a little time-consuming. Let me know how it goes, I've got my interior gutted and the front and rear clams are off so I have good visibility if it might help.|
|07-09-2019 01:28 PM|
|waddy||Mfru replaced, by Christ that was stuck in there real bad. Still doesn't start up. Is the consensus on the immobilizer or starter?|
|07-04-2019 01:26 PM|
Originally Posted by Obeisance View Post
|07-04-2019 12:20 PM|
Originally Posted by waddy View Post
that being said, i wouldn't jump to replacing it before putting a multimeter on its poles while trying to crank in order to confirm wiring continuity.
|07-04-2019 11:04 AM|
|waddy||Waiting for the mfru to come in. Another update the car died after two cycles and also would not start using jumpers and a check engine and oil and battery light were on before pressing start. Tried doing the same thing as I did last time but didn't wait 30 minutes and it didn't start.Was able to get it push started. Does this narrow it down to the immobilizer or maybe starter?|
|07-01-2019 04:46 PM|
Electrical issues and / or fear of them keep me up some nights. Even recently, with another vehicle.
Hope you chase it down man!
|07-01-2019 10:15 AM|
Well another 6 days and it stopped working, there's almost a pattern here. Stops, works for about 6 days then dies. Maybe it has to due with the heat and relay stop working till it cools down? Taking it to a local to have the relays looked at.
Spoke too soon, its up again. Did the following, -remove r4 and r2 -disconnected battery. left for 6 minutes, pressed on the brakesto bleed the last energy out of ecu? -reattached battery, pit fuses in. -tried starting after putting the key in ignition. -Thought it didn't work, left the key in stage 2 of the ignition where the fuel pump primes and then waited 3min, pressed the start button and it started.... I really got nothing. Red light flicker still exists.
Something else I noticed, activating the headlights causes the led square in the instruments thing to dim. Going to open up the instruments cluster now to check on it.
Does anyone know where to get a more detailed wiring diagram then the one posted on here that was colorcoded?
|06-27-2019 09:02 AM|
|06-27-2019 05:44 AM|
|Jetblast||It's a strange problem indeed. I just want to throw something out there: how or where is the car stored? Is it possible rodents took up residence under the dash at some point? It seems these Lotus dashes make great winter homes for natures little creatures.|
|06-25-2019 10:59 PM|
|Gunpilot||This is a weird one! Just my two cents. I am by no means a Lotus electrical guru. But this has sticky relay written on it. Don't forget the relay unit on the fire wall. It causes all kinds of weird stuff.|
|06-25-2019 05:17 PM|
By sticky relays, do you mean the mfru?
Well decided to recheck the fuses again, then tried starting it up after leaving it disconnected since I last posted this and it started up perfectly.
However a something else is happening, the alarm light on the dash is blinking very fast intermittently
I'll see how long this lasts me now, what on earth is causing all this. Sputtering alarm light pointing to the immobilizer?
|06-15-2019 05:53 PM|
|Obeisance||sticky relays? ignition switch continuity issues? the ecu cannot stop the starter from cranking- it can only withhold spark or fuel.|
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