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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-03-2019 01:04 PM
AdamsWorld
Quote:
Originally Posted by lotus90 View Post
Hi

You might look at wilwood master cylinder as a replacement. it is better design is my understanding

https://www.gregsraceparts.com/produ...e-kit-11-evora
It's going in to the shop to diagnose and repair in a couple of weeks. I will ask him what we can do to replace the inferior items in the 2012 Evora to one's which are more reliable. After all, the engine will most likely already be out of the Evora if it is indeed a clutch failure. He believes it might be that. However, I really hope it isn't. Didn't want to drop so much for a clutch repair. I guess I may have no choice.
07-27-2019 06:26 AM
lotus90 Hi

You might look at wilwood master cylinder as a replacement. it is better design is my understanding

https://www.gregsraceparts.com/produ...e-kit-11-evora
07-27-2019 04:22 AM
glb Have success with and sent a lot of ppl to:

Colin Miller (named after Chapman)
C2 Automotive
500 US 46
Fairfield, NJ 07004
(973) 647-9440‬


(Same bldg as Eurotire, but don't use them for alignment or corner weighting)
07-26-2019 11:43 PM
Mobius97 @AdamsWorld Yeah the burning smell is something that I never experienced. A burnt clutch is a acrid smell that is immediately recognizable. Granted the MC is a plastic POS but I don't believe you you could smell it, the problem typically is with the internal seals. Then again never say never right? There have been times when I have smelled something that has worried me only to find that it was coming from another vehicle just making it into the cabin a minute later. Anyways, good luck and report back what you find so it can help others. Have a great weekend!
07-26-2019 10:01 PM
Bobsy Racer
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamsWorld View Post
I am already in gear and driving and it just revs. My foot is not touching the clutch. I've been driving a manual for 20+ years, never destroyed a clutch. RS Motorsports serviced it not too long ago and all was good. So, no idea what's going on.
What does the pedal feel like when you depress it ?
Does it feel like it is depressing the pressure plate ?
Is there any free play at the top, before it engages the pressure plate ?
Does the pedal go to the floor and stay there ?
If so, can you pump it up ?
These are all necessary questions to diagnose whether it's the master cylinder, or the pressure plate and disc causing the slippage.
07-26-2019 07:35 PM
AdamsWorld
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobius97 View Post
Read my post above. I had the exact symptoms and mine was the MC. Much easier and cheaper than a clutch job. I hope that is the case with yours as well.
I hope so. I called two mechanic shops that I was referred to, no return calls yet.

Years ago, the master cylinder went in my Mustang. I was still able to drive, but the breaks were shot. I had to use my emergency break to stop. This is much different. However, that was an auto, not manual transmission. I do not recall a burning smell though. This was 20+ years ago.
07-26-2019 02:06 PM
Mobius97
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamsWorld View Post
I am already in gear and driving and it just revs. My foot is not touching the clutch. I've been driving a manual for 20+ years, never destroyed a clutch. RS Motorsports serviced it not too long ago and all was good. So, no idea what's going on.

Read my post above. I had the exact symptoms and mine was the MC. Much easier and cheaper than a clutch job. I hope that is the case with yours as well.
07-26-2019 01:36 PM
AdamsWorld
Quote:
Originally Posted by glb View Post
You withhold important info.

Where in NJ? N? S? What?

Yes, I know places.
My apologies. Fort Lee, NJ area.
07-26-2019 01:34 PM
AdamsWorld
Quote:
Originally Posted by Partsfinder View Post
Yes OP seems to say slipping while already in a gear. The only way this could be clutch master or slave cylinders would be if they are holding clutch particularly disengaged. Is that the issue with those of you that had a cylinder failure.
I am already in gear and driving and it just revs. My foot is not touching the clutch. I've been driving a manual for 20+ years, never destroyed a clutch. RS Motorsports serviced it not too long ago and all was good. So, no idea what's going on.
07-26-2019 10:41 AM
glb
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamsWorld View Post
That's a bit over my pay grade. I called the service center in NJ, and they think it's the clutch and quoted 9k to replace the clutch. Anyone know of any other options in the NY/NJ area?
You withhold important info.

Where in NJ? N? S? What?

Yes, I know places.
07-26-2019 10:33 AM
Mobius97
Quote:
Originally Posted by hdho1 View Post
I was quoted $1800 to $2000 at the shops near me to fix the master cylinder when the issue cropped up. I ended up spending the weekend doing it myself. $350 for the part and I outsourced the clutch bleed for $150. BOE has a good guide on their website if you want to undertake that. Make sure you buy an aftermarket cylinder from GRP or BOE since the OEM is highly prone to failure.
That's quite an expensive quote. Mine was repaired at my Lotus dealer under warranty but on the service order it was listed out $800 for parts and labor. Most will tell you it is a clam off job, it is not. Dropped the car off late in the day and picked it up early afternoon next day. If it ever fails again I will definitely be going aftermarket with BOE's or Gregs options.

I would get the car in and have them diagnose it. When my MC failed I did not have the typical symptoms of a MC failure (spongy clutch pedal or dropping to the floor) and I too thought it was the actual clutch going out. I had severe slippage and climbing rev's when accelerating, ya know typical clutch going out symptoms. As it turned out for me the MC was not relieving pressure and causing a cascade effect down the line.
07-26-2019 10:04 AM
Partsfinder
Quote:
Originally Posted by West-of-Hethel View Post
To the OP, are you saying that driving in a high gear, and your foot not on the clutch pedal, you can rev up the engine without increasing road speed?
Yes OP seems to say slipping while already in a gear. The only way this could be clutch master or slave cylinders would be if they are holding clutch particularly disengaged. Is that the issue with those of you that had a cylinder failure.
07-26-2019 09:40 AM
West-of-Hethel To the OP, are you saying that driving in a high gear, and your foot not on the clutch pedal, you can rev up the engine without increasing road speed?
07-26-2019 08:39 AM
Julian73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Europa TC View Post
hdho 1 is spot on about changing the slave cylinder 1st. It's relatively inexpensive, that crappy slave cylinder has some plastic components that are subject to melting (ring a bell?), and it's going to need replacement soon anyway. My 2012 has a Wilwood unit that should last two lifetimes, but you need to adjust it for the cruise control to work. If it turns out you still need a new clutch, then you haven't lost anything by changing the slave cyl first.
Believe you are meaning the master .. ie the cylinder connected to the pedal
07-26-2019 08:27 AM
Europa TC hdho 1 is spot on about changing the slave cylinder 1st. It's relatively inexpensive, that crappy slave cylinder has some plastic components that are subject to melting (ring a bell?), and it's going to need replacement soon anyway. My 2012 has a Wilwood unit that should last two lifetimes, but you need to adjust it for the cruise control to work. If it turns out you still need a new clutch, then you haven't lost anything by changing the slave cyl first.
07-26-2019 07:42 AM
esseye Unfortunately, service bulletins aren't recalls or warranty extensions, so it's unlikely.

Your failure sounds more like the clutch to me personally than the MC. MC failures I would generally expect to go the "other way" - in that you can't disengage the clutch. It sounds like your clutch can't be engaged.
07-26-2019 07:40 AM
AdamsWorld
Quote:
Originally Posted by hdho1 View Post
I would absolutely start with the master cylinder first since its a common issue and will save you lots of money if that is what is indeed the problem. $9k does seem very pricey for a clutch change. I think the average is about $6-7k. Was it Lotus who quoted this amount?
It was RS Motorsports. Great work, but very expensive and he cannot see me for a few months as well. I am also wondering if the clutch work would be covered under Lotus due to the service bulletin released a few years ago (attached).
07-26-2019 07:34 AM
hdho1
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamsWorld View Post
That's a bit over my pay grade. I called the service center in NJ, and they think it's the clutch and quoted 9k to replace the clutch. Anyone know of any other options in the NY/NJ area?
I would absolutely start with the master cylinder first since its a common issue and will save you lots of money if that is what is indeed the problem. $9k does seem very pricey for a clutch change. I think the average is about $6-7k. Was it Lotus who quoted this amount?
07-26-2019 07:11 AM
AdamsWorld
Quote:
Originally Posted by hdho1 View Post
I was quoted $1800 to $2000 at the shops near me to fix the master cylinder when the issue cropped up. I ended up spending the weekend doing it myself. $350 for the part and I outsourced the clutch bleed for $150. BOE has a good guide on their website if you want to undertake that. Make sure you buy an aftermarket cylinder from GRP or BOE since the OEM is highly prone to failure.
That's a bit over my pay grade. I called the service center in NJ, and they think it's the clutch and quoted 9k to replace the clutch. Anyone know of any other options in the NY/NJ area?
07-26-2019 06:51 AM
hdho1
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamsWorld View Post
Was it expensive to fix?
I was quoted $1800 to $2000 at the shops near me to fix the master cylinder when the issue cropped up. I ended up spending the weekend doing it myself. $350 for the part and I outsourced the clutch bleed for $150. BOE has a good guide on their website if you want to undertake that. Make sure you buy an aftermarket cylinder from GRP or BOE since the OEM is highly prone to failure.
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