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Discussion Starter #1
I didn't drive the car for about 1 week. When I came back, the battery was completely dead. I took the battery out and had it charged at the auto parts store.

Now, all of the electronics work (lights, radio, windows, etc) but the car won't start. It doesn't crank, there is no clicking, I just press the start button and...nothing.

The fuel pump doesn't prime. I checked the R1 fuse and even replaced it for good measure. All other fuses looked good too. I pressed the inertia switch and didn't really feel anything in terms of button 'action' so I don't think that was tripped.

Whatever is going on, I think it has something to do with the battery going flat. It would be a weird coincidence for the battery to go flat and something else breaking at the same time with no relation.


I don't want to have to take it to the dealer but I will if I can't get this figured out by wednesday.


Help me!
 

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Is the alarm tell-tale red light on and/or blinking?

I don't have fuse list in frt of me, but many of us check fuses with a multi-meter as it can be difficult to see a bad fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is the alarm tell-tale red light on and/or blinking?

I don't have fuse list in frt of me, but many of us check fuses with a multi-meter as it can be difficult to see a bad fuse.
I turn the immobilizer off when I try to start it. So the tell tale is on sometimes, but I turn it off to try to start.

I can do that, but I replaced the fuel pump fuse anyway. I'll try to pick up a multimeter tomorrow.
 

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Acme Super Moderator ** The Enforcer **
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A new thread is pointless if you haven't taken the advice given in the older (redundant) thread.

San
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A new thread is pointless if you haven't taken the advice given in the older (redundant) thread.

San
Old thread was in the alarm/immobilizer section which was what I thought the issue had to do with. This is a more appropriate and active section.
 

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Acme Super Moderator ** The Enforcer **
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Old thread was in the alarm/immobilizer section which was what I thought the issue had to do with. This is a more appropriate and active section.
If you haven't checked the fuses with a multimeter I think you haven't done your due diligence, no matter what section you post in.

San
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you haven't checked the fuses with a multimeter I think you haven't done your due diligence, no matter what section you post in.

San
Would you agree that it's possible for something else to be the issue? Perhaps something that I am able to check with the tools that I currently have access to?

Why would I want to limit myself to hearing one option at a time...


I hope the fuse is the issue, but I'm not going to cheat myself out of trying other things in parallel.
 

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Acme Super Moderator ** The Enforcer **
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Would you agree that it's possible for something else to be the issue? Perhaps something that I am able to check with the tools that I currently have access to?

Why would I want to limit myself to hearing one option at a time...


I hope the fuse is the issue, but I'm not going to cheat myself out of trying other things in parallel.
The first reply in this thread (a duplicate thread IMHO) from glb, a respected/knowledgeable forum member says to check your fuses with a multimeter. I said the same in your other thread. If you ask for advice but don't follow advice given is that our problem our yours? We're trying to help.

Starting a new thread with the same issue when you haven't taken the time to ascertain if the advice you were given pinpoints the problem seems lazy to me. Again, just my opinion.

San
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The first reply in this thread (a duplicate thread IMHO) from glb, a respected/knowledgeable forum member says to check your fuses with a multimeter. I said the same in your other thread. If you ask for advice but don't follow advice given is that our problem our yours? We're trying to help.

Starting a new thread with the same issue when you haven't taken the time to ascertain if the advice you were given pinpoints the problem seems lazy to me. Again, just my opinion.

San
I understand and I appreciate your response and everyone else's suggestions. I don't have a multimeter with me, so for the time being, I would like to exhaust other options.
 

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Do you have another battery that is known to be good that you could quickly swap in to check to see if it is battery related since you seem confident that is the issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do you have another battery that is known to be good that you could quickly swap in to check to see if it is battery related since you seem confident that is the issue?
Yeah, I tried the battery from my accord and had the same result.
 

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Acme Super Moderator ** The Enforcer **
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Troubleshooting is about eliminating one thing at a time to isolate the issue. It seems the only thing you've ruled out is the battery. A cheap multimeter is $20.

San
 

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My switch gets tripped if the lid is closed to hard. If you haven't figured out where the inertia switch is, its a black rubber covered push button switch by the windshield washer resi. If it's been tripped it will click when you push down on it. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Got a multimeter, all fuses are good.

So it isn't the fuses, inertia switch, or battery. A similar thread pointed to the start button itself, but that seems to be working as well.


Any other ideas?
 

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Mine has done that occasionally, stupid inertia switch.
That is not normal. You should probably replace that switch as it could make the engine stop while driving it if it's that sensitive. I have to smack mine pretty hard with a rubber mallet to get it to trip.
 

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IIRC, there is an intermediate cable connection, very close to the battery terminal. Check that and check your grounds.

Also, double check the battery terminals.

Set multimeter to V. Ground one end, touch live wire with other end.

If you see a good voltage at the battery post, but less voltage at the clamp, the connection is not good.

Same deal with intermediate connection.

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Check grounds with mm set at ohms.

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Frankly, I no longer believe this is a voltage issue.

I'd take off the panel with the starter button to ensure the wires are firmly connected. One of those connections always looks iffy to me.

But, the above tests allows us to eliminate suspects.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
IIRC, there is an intermediate cable connection, very close to the battery terminal. Check that and check your grounds.

Also, double check the battery terminals.

Set multimeter to V. Ground one end, touch live wire with other end.

If you see a good voltage at the battery post, but less voltage at the clamp, the connection is not good.

Same deal with intermediate connection.

--

Check grounds with mm set at ohms.

--

Frankly, I no longer believe this is a voltage issue.

I'd take off the panel with the starter button to ensure the wires are firmly connected. One of those connections always looks iffy to me.

But, the above tests allows us to eliminate suspects.
I did the post vs clamp test and that checked out just fine. Also measured voltage with the battery being jumped (13.6V) and without being jumped (12.4V). No difference in the reaction of the car.

I'll try to test the intermediate cables as well if I can locate them.


Start button: It lights up, but I don't know if this function is independent of the 'start' signal. How can I test that functionality? I unplugged and replugged it twice with no difference in result. I'll take a closer look at it again.


When I leave the key in the start position, all dash lights turn off except the Engine light, Oil light, Battery light, and Brake light. Is that normal?


MFRU and Starter are starting to creep in my head.
 
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